Xeron

dont worry what gap they come pre-set at, always absolutely always regap them anyway. Who knows if the packs been dropped, or how much they got bumped around in shipment and knocked the gap out a bit.

Anyone know if you can fit larger valves into the heads?

for the most simple estimate, HP at the rear is aproximitly KW at the flywheel.

The quench debate is very valid. Theoreticly you want your quench distance (the height of the compressed head gasket plus the distance the piston is down the bore at TDC) to be no more than say, .055 inches, preferably closer to .045, although this depends on your setup and i'd ask someone knowledgable, dont want valves to be hitting pistons now do we. Quench does make a BIG difference to detonation, its vital in a good engine build. The best way to lower compression is not through a thick head gasket, but rather getting a dished piston really.

Ive said this before in previous threads. If u get hyper pistons, i sure as hell hope u dont drive in summer, cause a just a few seconds of ping and u can blow a hole in em. And hey there also alot more likely to ping too due to the higher silica content refecting more heat into the combustion chamber. Cheap Fast Reliable Pick any 2.

Why werent u allowed in nations cup? Im guessing cause the cars modded about 50 times more than the class rules allow?

oh sorry, when i say a larger stall, i mean a higher rpm stall converter Sometimes u just cant get the exact car u want for the price nizmo, or u really need a car and hey theres a perfectly good one avaliable, just its an auto. Although economically it isn't really worth it in the long run.

techincally it wont be legal at all, unless u ran dedicated LPG ull never pass emmisions laws. Plus once u hit 9's u need a full cage etc etc, and i aint too sure if u can make a 9 second cage legal. Still tho, if its gonna be a drag car, why not the auto. Not only will your times be ALOT more consistant if you ever actually do any bracket racing etc, autos are alot nicer on parts. Someone out there would have to be able to do skyline auto buildups

for a 9 second car what about a built auto, sure would save diffs, half shafts etc

avgas is leaded, ya dont really wanna run it in an unleaded car.

those dont even look to be equal length (all the pipes dont look to be the same length, although it is a hard pic to see). For cheaper u could get the 2 flanges and get someone to custom bend and weld you up a pair.

the s2000 engine has reliability problems tho. Theres already service bulletins out about it having oil use problems due to the piston design. In order to allow the super high rpms and good power, they pretty much eliminated the piston skirt, which puts massive strain on the rings, thus they wear faster, thus people are having excessive oil consumption. Theres always a drawback

If the fingerpainting sold for twice the price tho, i'd much rather be the finger painter.

you can run more boost and timing, thus better power. Plus it also makes for a nice little barrier of protection on hot summer days and the like.

next year i think it is the base model corvette is gonna have 450hp, not bad for that old bunky pushrod heap of crap aye. Although i guess its a bit below the dodge viper, another bunky pushrod piece of shit that should get with the times and go dohc, riiight? And yes, DOHC is older technology, my reference was to the fact the buick 3800 itself is alot older in design, infact it dates back to originally being a v8 engine. I think it goes back to the 60's, not too sure off the top of my head sorry. And back to the original topic. Yes i believe it would be easier to get a s/c buick 3800 block, have it internally balanced and run forgie pistons, strap a big ****ing s/c on it and get 300kw at the treads that it would be to do a cross manufacturer engine and transmission swap. Sorry i just get worked up when people who really dont know anything about an engine automaticly assume its a piece of shit. Not only have buick 3800's run in the 7's down the 1/4 (i think a few have done 6's, but yer whatever), not only are they used in many racing series around the globe, but they come stock in the commodore too. Just cause u dont see aussies doing anything with em dosn't mean there crap people. edit: and just for the record, i wasn't brought up around pushrods, i dont really care either way, i just wish people would look at an engines facts, not just there own opinions which are biased as all hell.

"How can you compare an engine that has millions of R&D thrown into it, produces more power with less cubes and say 'but no, my unaltered design, gas guzzling pushrod isnt a dinosaur' " Trust me, just as much has been spent on pushrod engine development, plus alot of them have many decades R&D behind em, it helps. And then check out the fuel economy of say an ls1 commodore, and compare it to a skyline. Shit those old pushrod dinosaurs dont do too bad! Specially since they have more power stock for stock. You just seem to be of the frame of mind 'oh it aint the latest thing on the market, it must suck'

and btw, OHC and DOHC technology pre-dates pushrod's by a few decades, just to be a picky ****

Well im not too sure on NSW law, but here in the west you are not allowed to put an engine into a car that is older than the car itself. Now say you use a holden s/c block, they arent gonna give a rats ass aslong as u keep VT levels of emmisions equipment, especially being as vt's came sc'd stock. But u go throwing a nissan engine in there, and if they check what year it was made, which they could well do, u better hope that front cut u got was pretty damn new. That and many other stupid little things they can do, its just alot more hassle to go through.

And here comes old Xeron. To all of you that said the buick 3800 has no potential and is an old tech pushrod heap of shit, get your ****ing heads out of your asses you arogent pricks. Now that ive got that outa my system, turbo chargin the 3800 is nothing new, like i said it was a factory item in the US in the 80's, running better times than most nissans do now days. While the crank etc used in the turbo engine was vastly different to the n/a variant, if you got a long block of a s/c v6 u have a pretty much ideal setup, and importing a turbo kit from the US could be quite economical really, unfortunatly i dont have the price off the top of my head sorry. Other than that you could just s/c the engine, if you use an aftermarket s/c over the vs+ stock sc you will be able to achieve much higher power levels. It all depends on your budget really. To stick a nissan engine into a commodore, lets see uve got to redo all the computer and eletricals, custom fabrication of engine mounts, and transmission mounts, no doubt need to cut another hole in the floor for the shifter, if u go manual ull have a nice time hooking up the clutch, then uve got to have a drive shaft cut, the nissan end welded on after its been shortened. And thats assuming the nissan gearbox isn't drasticly longer than the holden unit or something stupid which would require body bashing to make it fit. Plus the registration, oh that'd be fun.

The buick 3800 in turbo trim ran 13.0 stock in the american GNX. The potential is definatly there if you have the budget.

hypers are alot more prone to detonation due to there high silica content reflecting more heat into the combustion chamber. Many a hyper has had a hole put in the top of it from this, they dont like pre-detonation at all.

www.kleenex.com oh and i'd like to ask, what is wrong with them outsourcing parts anyway? For example carrillo rods and shit like that, heavy duting forgings of there rods are known to take over 1000hp, for the price to strength there pretty damn good really. That goes for all the other manufacturers too, they produce in greater numbers than the jap shops, they can therefore lower there prices. I just dont see the point of the argument really.

I'd personally take the JE's, Carillo's and CARR bolts/studs. Depending on HP level ur shooting for of course.

get a 350z and stick Audi TT badges on it, no-one will know the difference

Torque is multiplied by gear ratios, so 850nm is very probable. Actually i'd say its pretty low, specially considering u were in 3rd and not 4th. I wouldn't trust any dyno that gives u the readout in km/h and not rpm anyway.