T04GTR

good stuff. probably the single most needed graph on here!!! :lol: i thing i guessed well with my to4z 1 year ago

how the hell do you change the front upper arm inner bushes putting in whiteline adjustable ones any help greatly apreciated cheeres

TD=mhi turbo 06=turbine WHEEL 20g=comp WHEEL L=SUPER BACK comp wheel s=flat back comp wheel h=large turbine exhaust housing you already know the sizing comp housing is the big long part no. on the front of it cheeres td06=mad turbo; so very underated

1.00 lamba is 14.7:1 afr. 1.4 is lean as f**k. <1 is rich >1 is lean you need to acuratly check the flow and work out the corect compensation. i had the same problem putting 550s in place of 440s in a gtr with an autronic. it can be adjusted mathematicly but the "responce of the injectors will be off so it will be too rich onto boost and to lean up top for example. basicly adjust it to get the exact same afr as before the swap

I was not aware you could make a mitsubishi into a garrett. try retarding the exaust cam abit(like 2-3 crank degrees) those cams wont help,what exhaust housing is on it. is it a tdo6H or a td06 (25g ie t67) ive got a 14cm tdo6 housing that may suit. but you need a 10-12cm one it seems they are a mad turbo but hit with a rush. :lol:

11-13psi is FACTORY :lol:

that depends on how much of the origonal harness is entact. you may have to hook it up. make sure your reading the diagram corectly(not upside down) also nissan tach signal is a +12volt or +5 or somthing square wave signal. the autometre needs a -12volt signal so it wont work. you need to get a tach adapter that converts the +to a- one

yes motor out on a stand to do a sumpbaffel. could be done but by the time you spend cleaning all of the threebond out of the sump and the rest,you could of pulled the motor out. but then there is the question of upgrading the oil pump at the same time? id advise to do both :lol:

one of the most important things you should do is put in an EXTRA 1.5 LITRES of oil. i tested this on the track with a mechanicl oil pressure guage. on the street with standard evrything and the oil on the high mark it surges its head of by just acelerating flat out in first and abit of second!!!! with an extra 1.5 litres it seems to be ok.(basicly filled up to just over the hump on the bottom of the dipstick.

8200 max they can spin harder but the rev limiter will bust the oil pump. i mist a gear in my 170000km 32gtr with a blitz access ecu it hit 8878 on the multi checker!!!!! it has hapend 3 times now i put it to the fact that the revlimit doest bounce the crank back and forth on my other motor (revalant mods to this topic,n1 oil pump 33 engine) it saw 8200 regulary whist wheelspinning :lol: it cut a long story short i rebuilt it after a turbo falure and the pump had copped a pounding!!, quite alot of ware around the pump drive surface

hmm. i replaces the rear discs. no good. front discs got machined $130 later and its the SAME I dont think they did it properly but can worn pads have an effect? (<2mm)

a wastegate doesnt look as good as a turbo

hmm. pitty most of us piked

Looks good mate

ahh yes the old loose waterpump pully trick

its all about the oil. what viscosity is the motul oil your using? 25lifters can be very sensitive to changes in iol thickness. the oil feed to the head can also block up undo the oil cap and see how much oil is getting up there.: i spose the easiest way is to chech it with a friend with the same engine ps. there should be enough oil to splash evry ware with the oil cap off.(just the odd splash out of the oil cap with a continuase swirl of oil around the cam lobes,if thats any help cheeres

hmmm. ive curently got s silvia ca18t with the same problem: 0.3bar boost with the actuator line puled off!!!! no leaks any where straight of the dump pipe(no exhaust/unbolted) turbo spins easily and has minimal shaft play i really couldent be f**ked pulling the turbo off. its got me stumped

Cool. the pads on the front are about 75% worn it has pillow ball type joints(no movment) tie rods/rackends ok BIG CRACK IN REAR DISC!!! il replace the rear discs and see how we go ps. i thought it was abit bizar that the vibration comes through the steering wheel.

hi all just a quik one. my whole car shakes when i aply the brakes at speeds above 100ks my first thought was warpefd discs so i had them machined and it still does it just as bad my front brakes are f40 343mm*34 thich 2 peice full floating discs(disc rattels around) has any one had this problem before? im getting a wheel alignment and balance tomorrow but i dought it will fix it. it gets REALLY bad the hotter you get the brakes, but they are perfectly flat :blink any one into motorsport may be able to help cheeres in advanve

i recomend finding the biggest one you can aford. tyre in oil cooler or 30 roe oil cooler in ebay. i almost got one but they are mostly dash 8 fittings(9/16 ant i had dash 10.(5/8) ize hose my gtr struggles with oil temp with 2 25row dash 1o serek ones!!(mainly due to the 4 relief valves in the factory oil filter housings. so bigger is best and a pissy 19 row one wont cut it for a minuite. you could fit a 30row one in(just) the front inner guard behind the brake duct. hope that helps

yes. if they have a bosch(square plug) there s4 low impedance if they have a denso (oval plug) there s5, both are reddy pink. i thought 20s had a droping resister. factory ones are low impedance any way arnt they?

umm, now i know why there caled "super conecting rod" nice nice im druling over that crank. i just sealed mine up with the stocker 33 one

i had the same drama with my trust ones. look at the instruction for some numbers. mine had a dodgy diagram and .05mm amongst it all. which is 1.9 thou(2 thou) very important because they dont use "file back" rings

I think we need to get your box out to craft or somthing so i dont have to keep doing boxes

yes. i was with my mate kemmo going to krispy creme after the free nude show at sefton playhouse i think herman sold ur coils :lol: