Dale FZ1

An older model Z might be "old school" but still mighty effective if sorted. Bit like Grandad's old axe - put an edge on it and it will still cut your foot off. With some thought the L series donk is no nail either (check Jon Siddins times/results in Targa in that pink Z), but the newer engineering improvements in an RB would make them attractive if you've got to spend money. By far the best upgrade would be brakes, suspension and a cage in whatever you end up with.

More requests the same as Bass and Mark ^^

If that rain hangs about there won't be any shortage of the former!

And here's a thread that was active in only the past few days about remapping: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=143835 If you want to know about stand alone replacement ECU, then try searching PFC*, Apexi, Microtech, Datalogit. Again, it's only down to your budget and intended outcome. You could try Googling Adaptronic too. None of this is hard, just a bit time consuming to build your own understanding.

How hard? There is some quite useful info here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103095 Which is at the top of the PI page. Otherwise search using keywords like Slide, GCG*, 2530*, 2871*, Discopotato, MTQ*, highflow, etc. Make some effort to search and see/read what others have achieved/done, before telling someone where to get off. The whole thing isn't about instant gratification. If you want to modify then you need to know exactly what you want out of your car, and what use you want to put it to. That will ultimately dictate what works best for you.

An amazing result with a small capacity engine. Great stuff! :sorcerer: The RB20 is obviously a little doughy down lower in the range, but you've got a very strong mid range that holds and holds. Doesn't like to drop off after the peak either. Boost control looks exceptionally good too... Used in its intended environment (drift??) that thing should be very useful.

Fast turning into a "I can pee this high" contest. Face it gents, there are some pretty good options there. RWD Skyline with suitable preparation is a good thing S13 or S14 is a good thing also with suitable preparation GTR is a good thing EVO is a good thing It's as much about budget as driver preference for what the car feels like. I'd hazard a guess to say that nearly anyone on this board lacks the skill and balls to get the most out of their machine. ie. the driver is normally the biggest limiting factor to speed. Remember we are talking about club activities here, with no sheep stations at risk.

The whole JDM vs Aus-spec thing is a bit of urban myth. I recall seeing it written by a contributor to HPI + Zoom Mag a couple of years back. Did my own research and found the parts numbers from Nissan the same regardless of which market they originated from. Manual spec S15 = terracotta top = 440cc (or more dependent on rail pressure) Auto spec S15 = purple top = 370cc Can't believe all you read all the time, so do your own checks if in doubt.

Yes, I'm interested.

Looks like an old ZXR750? Two wheels = most fun you can have while still fully clothed.

Had to go check my spreadsheet. It's actually 7.6km/l which equates to 13.1 l/100km. That is the arithmetic average (mean) rather than the median. I use km/l which is a measure of consumption, whereas l/100km is a measure of economy. Splitting hairs really because they just represent the same thing differently. FWIW, I also use the same spreadsheet to calculate the cost/km. For a 1400kg car with somewhere in excess of 200rwkW, and self tuned light load AFR of a consistent 14.6 - 14.8:1 I'd still consider the figures pretty damn good. We are using a machine with basic mechanical and electronic engineering well over 15 years old. Not good to try and compare with what is currently on the new car market, but interesting. Remember we are driving a car that is a grand tourer, not an economy box; the figures are consistent, and still pretty good.

Tally ho!! now you're talking

Remember he was going to look at non-compliant cars too. Seriously, you should be able to land a reasonable Evo with some of the fruit for under 20k The only reason I suggested an awd was for mechanical grip. On short-run hillclimbs that counts for lots, as with SOME tracks. Only raised as a viable alternative. I prefer the feel/balance of a good rwd, but an awd can enhance the results of an average driver - and seem to do well by using all (or more) of the power they do have. Good discussion though.

Keep off the throttle. Use the power, and you'll use the fuel. Simple as that. There's lots of previous threads (hint: try the search function) about fuel economy/usage. I have logged an arithmetic average over 15000km of 7.4km/l Gentle highway running, rolling on/off throttle and keeping out of boost I can sneak up to 9.5, and extended fast running with hard acceleration and big throttle opening + boost runs it down to under 6.0 Most likely nothing inherently wrong with your car, but that's what they do.

Hillclimb car and (presumably) short tracks for club days. It's about the turn-in and mid corner speed. Weight distribution F:R is the key, rather than too much technical discussion about RB vs SR. Lets face it, either one is capable of producing USEABLE power in the 220-240 rwkW range, which is probably WAY more than adequate for the intended purpose. That said, a stock Evo would probably carve it up for breakfast and be a turn-key option into the bargain. Depends on what you want I guess.

Thanks

The numbers are very tidy. You should be happy - it looks to hold the power very easily across 5500 - 7000. The AFR overlay really demonstrates what you've done at peak torque rpm. I take it that was for knock-prevention? Two things I'd like to see: the torque curve (instead of power) a dyno pull starting down at around 16-1800rpm Just gives me a better interpretation of what it does (and yeah I know you're not likely to run an RB20 down there very much).

What is the spec difference? Just trim size change, or a downsize in impeller O/D. Good to see a sensible step backwards in size (whatever it was) to improve actual vehicle performance. Any dyno chart from the runs? Torque with boost overlay if possible please.

This may help: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=GT2871* The same principle applies for any of the GT28 series. If you were to choose a GT28RS Discopotato to base it on, you would pretty much just pick up the whole turbo and graft the Nissan/Hitachi turbine housing onto it. Close to same spec as a HKS 2530. For the larger 71 and 76mm compressors you have the option of either using the OE comp cover, or the Garrett cover. FWIW, I still find it hard to stop smiling each time I drive mine with the 2871 based high flow. Provides a good lesson in response and driveability because it has torque anytime you need it. Pulls high gears so easily it's just like it has another 1.5 litres capacity rather than a smallish high flow. PM me if you want any further detail, but the thread is fairly self explanatory.

True from a technical perspective. As I said earlier, there is a temp differential across the turbine due to energy transfer into the rotor. From a practical perspective, I'm happy with installing in the dump within a short distance of the turbine outlet. I may not have the best absolute reading, but it's not a bad indicator. Unless I had the turbo off, and turbine housing removed or manifold off I'd not be interested in the possibility of sending metal shavings through the turbo. This discussion is similar to "where is the best place to measure engine oil temps?" ; there are options, some better than others.

I do believe the clubman type cars to be much more a purist sports car. Light weight is the real key to speed (besides the driver growing confidence + balls), and seems the way to make everything else work together better. And 120kW at the fly still gives great power:weight when you're coming in under 600kg with driver and fluids on board!! Probably a bit light on for creature comforts and refinement though.

I'd have to go back a bit to remember, but I believe on introduction they were over 1300kg - engine equivalence factor put them in the same weight class as the destroked 4987cc Commodore. Then they were ballasted and de-boosted to nobble the advantage. I believe that come Bathurst 92 they were weighing 1500kg and suffering brake problems as a result.

I used to go and watch them when they were cutting edge touring cars, not historics. And yeah, it was a spectacle. Quite a sight to see a Volvo 240GT two wheeling around the esses at Surfers Paradise Great to see an M3 take the GTR under brakes into Hungry Corner at Lakeside A bit deflating to see the relatively underpowered but pretty HR31 get belted by Sierra RS500s. There was only ever a max (that I can recall 3 HR31s running - two Peter Jackson Racing, and Murray Carter as a privateer) And a lesson in engineering superiority also to see the GTR absolutely trounce everything off the line and then pretty much control race pace. Fast, professional, everything they should be, but sadly never hit the mark for aural entertainment like a V8.

Beer Baron's idea has my vote. Best chassis and driveline support gear, and a lighter alloy 4cyl to improve chassis balance front:rear A bit like having a Supra running 3SGTE. If you're looking at bringing something in for motorsport use only, then the cost of an EVO would (should) be in the running too. And the grip advantage means they're damn competitive in hillclimb and any short track events. Bigger hp really only comes into its own when you can stretch the legs...

Exhaust temps are an INDICATOR of rich/lean - if you want to know HOW rich/lean then invest in a wide band O2 kit. Pyrometer will measure (obviously) temps which are thermally loading the pistons, valves, manifold and turbocharger. All of them have thermal limits. There are good reasons for inserting the thermocouple into the manifold pre-turbo, but generally it is too difficult/not practical to muck around welding into cast manifolds or a fabricated manifold collector. A disintegrating sensor getting blasted into a turbine would not end happily... A turbocharger WILL see a temperature reduction across the turbine (energy transferred to the turbine to drive the compressor), so basically if you want any meaningful indicator of thermal loading then mount it as close as practical to your turbine discharge. ie. in the dump pipe. FWIW, I'm seeing 500-650 with general running about. Closed loop operation about 700, and with extended higher rpm, aggressive throttle openings and boost up to 750.