Macross

I'm 95% certain it is the turbo seals, I'll explain why: I'm not sure if this goes for all GTR turbos, but GT-SS use coolant rather than oil to cool the turbos White smoke only appears from exhaust on boost (you can easily see this as boost comes on close to 4krpm) White smoke through pod filters on liftoff (so it's in the intake system - I can't think of any other issues that would cause coolant to leak into the cold air part of the intake) On cold start = no smoke from exhaust Revving car in idle also has no smoke released To be tripley sure, I left the car overnight to cool down after it started and checked in the radiator for any signs of oil entering the system (incase of blown headgasket) and found no signs (ie. no gummy residue), just a slightly reduced coolant level. I consulted my mechanic with the symptoms and the first thing he also said was turbo seals. If there are any other issues that share the same symptoms, let me know and I can work out some tests to check for those. As for the airbag light, it has been this way for a few months and much like my reason for selling the car as is, I have done alot of research into the problem, but simply don't have the time to try most of the options. What I have tried: Manual reset through the door open/close button (didn't work) Guy with Consult system try to reset (no idea if it was a Consult I or Cosult II) - from my understanding you need a Consult II for R34 GTR's post '00 Plug in standard ecu and connect laptop with "Conzult" (free 3rd party consult ripoff) through diagnostics port - software said it "couldn't connect to ecu" (as in the standard ecu - it didn't even get to try to read errors) which more than likely meant the software was junk. What more than likely is required: Trip to Nissan to have genuine Consult II system hooked up to diagnostic port and reset airbag ECU, which may or may not be possible with PowerFC installed, so borrowing a stock ecu may be required. Other possibilities: Airbag ECU needs replacing Some fault in wiring somehwere (It's possible some wiring was partly damaged when headunit was installed, so problem didn't show up until later on but this is unlikely) Faulty sensor somewhere Fuse burnt out somewhere? (I have no idea if there is one for the airbag system or not) As you can see, these are pretty time consuming options, for someone like me especially who doesn't work on his own car, requires alot of running around (and alot of workshops aren't open on weekends, meaning several days off work which I can't do). I can arrange for a RWC if required.

Cheers mate, interior pics will be coming this weekend (once I give the interior a nice vacuum). Previous owner replaced it with the current one and sold the oem bonnet (not surprising considering they're worth a small fortune). Ran downstairs and took some quick pics, will take proper ones in the sunlight on the weekend (since I'm sick as a dog and it killed me just to get these ones in the garage).

Hi All, Up for sale is my 2001 r34 gtr vs2. I have owned this car for the last 2.5 years and like most GTR owners, have barely driven it. I had big plans for this car when I first got it, but never got around to doing most of it as time and money constrained me I lost interest. Description: Year: 2001 Model: Nissan Skyline R34 GTR V-Spec II Colour: Black Kms: 110,xxx (approx) Rego: 01/11/2011 Modifications: Electronics: Apexi PowerFC Blitz SBC SpecR Boost Controller Kenwood AVIC-F90BT In-car navigation & stereo LED Tail lights Nismo 320km/hr Dash Xenon Headlights Mechanical: Tomei Sump Baffle Nismo N1 Water pump HKS Twin plate ceramic clutch Tomei Poncams Type B camshafts (260degree) HKS Camgears Trust - Greddy Lightweight Pulley Set Ross Tuffbond MetalJacket Harmonic Balancer Twin SSQV Bov's HKS GT-SS Twin Turbos Apexi Header pipes HKS Dump Pipes 5in Metalcat Trust PE Ti 3in Titanium Exhaust Nismo 600cc Injectors Trust remote oil filter relocation and oil cooler Apexi Power Intake Pod filter (x2) RB25 Airflow Meters Nismo Engine Mounts Nismo Transmission Mounts Handling: AP Racing CP5000 4pot Front brake calipers Aesthetics: Border Racing dry weight carbon fibre bonnet Carbon fibre radiator cooling panel Nismo carbon fibre side pillars Nismo floor mats Nissan rain shields Genuine Nissan side skirts Spares: Original floor mats Front wheel well plastics (one side has a small hole in it, so I bought one in better condition) Spare 3in exhaust Spare front diffuser (scratched) Service History: Log books since cars arrival in country at ~25k kms (2005) until I took possession of car (early 2009) (log book was full when I went to do 1st service, have completed 2 services since I've owned the car). 100k km service completed under 3 months ago, at which point all major seals/gasket replaced besides headgasket/turbo gaskets (bought a OEM nissan gasket kit), harmonic balancer replaced with ross item and pullies replaced with lightweight items Problems: My original plan was to put the car up for sale in November, after taking it to a track day. However the situation has changed as the friend I was planning to go with has pulled out (just started a new job and can't take a thursday off already) and with these issues popping up, I'd rather have someone with time take the car off my hands for an appropriate discount for what you are getting as I can't afford to take time off work to run parts around. 1st problem: Turbo coolant seal has just started to leak (as in this started two days ago). Under boost white smoke out exhaust, when you come off throttle white smoke out of pod filters - when not on boost, no issues present. Cost to repair: $1700 from GCG for rebuild for both turbos (may only be one that needs repairing if you so wish). 2nd problem: Airbag light flashing. I don't know why. The has obviously never had a front ender, the airbags have never been deployed and there is no reason it should be flashing as far as I can tell. Other minor items: - The coilpacks are reaching their limits at the cars current 310kw, I have brand new replacement OEM coilpacks that will be included with sale. - Tyres due for replacement, centre of tyres has just reach wear line (I didn't realise I was overinflating the tyres), still some wear left in them as I adjusted the pressure, but need to be replaced soon. - Front rotors need to be replaced with next pad change (currently has brand new pads). Two DBA5000 series rotors will be included with sale. Price: $54,000 ONO Contact via PM or contact me on my mobile Some updated pictures will be posted up this weekend, here are some older shots:

Definately not a common issue, unfortunately I can't point you towards where the problem may lie, but I can tell you my current GTR, my previous supra and several friends who all have powerfc's in their car have had no problems at all with aircon control on powerfc (unless of course, it was not setup correctly by the tuner).

We all know it's the shapeshifting lizard alien illuminati behind it all. Quick, put on your tinfoil hats... it's the NWO! I hate to break it to you, but every country in the world borrows money "at interest[sic]" to private corporations, they're called T-Bills (the T standing for Treasury). To truly understand just how silly what you just said sounds, its like saying "Mining companies CAN'T get out of debt as that's how the system works... They borrow every dollar at interest to private induviduals...".

Having some issues with my r34 gtr.. had it in a shop a while ago for some work, as far as I know, they needed to remove the passenger seat, glovebox compartment and potentially the centre console, the battery was disconnected for a few days as well. Picked up the car and was told the airbag light was flashing, consult system couldn't connect to ecu to do anything about it (normal as far as I could tell as the car has a powerfc), rather than leaving my car there (first time I had used the shop) I took delivery of the car and left it for a while as I would rather take a look into it myself than let them muck about with it anymore. Now it's a few months later and I've finally found some time to look into the problem, but it's already shaping up to be a messy one from what I can tell. Started with the manual reset (pressing the door switch), the light however doesn't stop flashing but I can hear what I think is the system pressurising (this sound only appears after I do the manual reset and not othertimes) when I turn the ignition off then on again. Tried this several times on several different occasions, all with the same results. Switched to next step, borrowed a stock ecu and installed it in the car, tried manual reset again with no luck. Now I'm concerned because something could have been damaged when the work was done and I have no idea what it could be without going through the whole system. I'm going to see if the bridge over the fusebox is getting power to start off with, but besides pulling out the workshop manual, ripping the interior out and manually tracing the wiring along to see any obvious faults, I'm wondering if anyone has some ideas of any plugs/important items that may be located around the passenger compartment that I could start by checking?

Was just about to post this also! I had the same thing happen to me years and years ago, had the option of 1 pt or 3 month suspension, took the 1 pt suspension and drove sedately for a year, by the time the year was over I had completely forgotten about the 1 pt and didn't realise until a couple months after I had my full 12 pts back. As mentioned if you choose the 1 pt option, you are not classified as having a license suspension (which sticks with you for 5 years btw before insurers no longer ask), it's already hard enough to get insurance having a modified import, try doing it with a license suspension on top of that...

The rotors should bolt straight up to the R34 GTR hub, to fit the calipers you will need a mounting bracket made up (lots of places can custom make these).

Yes they are available for 2 door versions. RHDJapan has them, as I bought a set a while ago.

Nothing unless your stock intercooler is completely shagged.

For sale are two Porsche Brembo 6 pot front calipers including rattle guards (pictured) located in inner western Sydney. This sale does not include brake lines, brake pads or rotors. I bought these with the intention of using them on my R34 GTR with 370Z rotors but have since been offered a bolt on AP Racing kit, so these are no longer required. These are brand new calipers for a porsche cayenne turbo, the caliper length is 12.5in, designed for a 350x32mm rotor, 370z 355mm x 32mm rotors would bolt up perfectly for these calipers. As these are brand new and unused, I just want what I paid for these back. $1250 delivered (will offer slight discount for pickup).

Not sure about the rears, but while the akebono fronts are larger and use a larger rotor, the actual pad area is smaller than a r33/r34/350z 4 pot brembo caliper. That being said the Akebono calipers can be had VERY cheaply if you can get them to fit.

You'll probably find that it's the coolant in your overflow bottle boiling once the engine has been shut off, as it's no longer moving through the system.

They had the deputy mayor of Gosford council on Triple M about this on friday. He basically said that unfortunately the state govt could introduce legislation tomorrow to make mobile speed camears exempt from any illegal parking requirements, I'm guessing this is what will happen if other councils follow suit as it would blow a big hole in bankrupt nsw state govt's bottom line. Meanwhile in other countries they're introducing laws to limit or eliminate fixed speed cameras

Legend! That's the one, thanks!

Whoops, here we go:

This has been driving me mad, I've tried again and again to find out who makes the bonnet pictured on the car below, but have had no luck at all... it looks simliar an old HKS Kansai bonnet but it's not the same. Anyone have any idea where it is from?

I've tried this at least 15 times now, I must be doing something really stupid because it's not working for me. I've gotten in the car, key in ignition on "OFF" switched it to "ON" (not started it), opened door, pressed the door switch 5 times fast. No go. Tried it again, pressed 5 times slowly (1 second in between), still no go. Tried it the same way by pressing the door switch after waiting for the airbag light to start blinking, tried this both 5 times fast and 5 times slow. No worky. It's driving me crazy, as I know I'm doing something wrong, as there is no change in the way the light flashes, so it doesn't seem the airbag module is going into diagnostic mode... Any ideas??

Looks like the GTR's after 00 have the Toshiba screens and the 99 models have the Sharp screens, from what google tells me.

Just to clarify this point, you are "not covered" only if the car is parked within 500 metres of your "overnight" address, because they consider it reasonable for you to have the car parked at your "overnight" address within this distance. Famous car insurance also has this policy, others may also but only list it in their pds (if you check Dawes PDS it also states this).

For me, I'm not happy with 4krpm, I would prefer boost to come on a bit earlier 3500rpm for instance would be a good goal. Boost always comes on strong and I already have cam gears, the tune could be improved as I'm not sure how good it is, but I don't want to spend money on having the tune redone only to realise that I'm still not satisfied with the delivery. The car already has Type B poncams with the GTSS turbos, so it's not like I'm going to be shelling out for these items, except if I decide to replace the poncams with the type A's mentioned.

As per the title, I currently have a rb26 with GTSS turbos and Tomei Type B poncams. I want a bit better response (currently hitting fullboost - 20psi - at 4krpm), but I also don't wany to run out of puff in the top end. I'm on stock rev limiter at the moment, but I also don't want to change back if I move to a 10krpm redline. So in summary, on an unbuilt engine with GTSS turbos would the Type B's I have currently be better suited than changing to the Type A's for the sake of a better power curve, or should I switch?

Is that $2.3k AUD or USD? Which state are you located in? (for local pickup)?

Hi All, I am looking for any assorted clips, plastic screws, metal screws, pretty much anything that connects stuff together both interior and exterior. I'm missing a few random ones on my car but it's always good to have spares anyway so if anyone has some they want to get rid of I'm prepared to shell out some $ in exchange for the screws you have. Ideally you would have at least a little box with 20-30+ various types (preferably more plastic clips than anything) and would be prepared to pay $20-$30 depending what you have. Drop me an email at mad_cat_3 (at) hotmail.com or PM. Cheers!

Want to move some of this stuff out soon, price drop: $300 exhaust $100 taillight housings $80 oil cooler