Macross

Not doubting your experience, but certainly you would not have developed a JZA80 supra to it's full potential. For starters, I'll be the first to say that the amount of supra owners representing themselves locally on the track is pitiful at best and absolutely retarded at worst. The most hardcore JZA80 racer I know in the racing world isn't doing anything more than amateur sprints in a semi-modified car and on the supraforums there is one person (in NZ) who actually does any sort of serious racing, but again, doesn't even come close to the development put into most work done on track skylines. Most of the people who do invest in track oriented parts choose off the shelf parts with no consideration to how these will work together at all, thinking a mix and match bag of brand names will give them the performance they want. If you want to compare apples to apples then look at the racing development done in the US, there are numerous SERIOUS track racers there, comparitively you can speak all day to those guys about suspension harmonics and corner weights while 99.99% of australian supra drivers will give you a blank stare and walk off. I'm not touting the Supra as a better track car than a skyline, but they are certainly no slouch when properly researched. Now onto some of the other stuff in this pointless thread to give it a shred of decency. I'm building my car as something that can go out onto any tight road course and perform very well then drive to work and then home, I run almost full weight (removed the top of the rear seat only), stock suspension (aftermarket springs) and dyno reading was 278.8rwkw @ 16psi, I'm nowhere near finished yet, but I'm hardly far off, probably another $2k off finishing up the suspension setup and I can start thinking about balancing out the corner weights and I'll be more than happy to lineup to any of you at wakefield or eastern creek. P.S. friend of mine, stock supra + boost @ wakefield 1:15

How about just being honestish if they have a comments field and put in there that you are not currently seeking to buy and simply doing a comparo?

Car looks absolutely boring as batshit.

If you don't have a hand controller it's also possible to setup the PFC so that it flashes the warning lights if knock exceeds a certain threshold.

Originally I was just going to say "f**k supra's they're shit" but I thought I might do a serious reply. Firstly, a VVTi supra is harder to modify than a non-vvti for little benefit. And the cost is closer to $25k for a Series 1, well sorted un-modified version. My Supra weighs 1480kg with half a tank of petrol, 1570 would be a GZ model which has leather seats, seat warmers, etc. Stock redline is 6800rpm (kicks in at 7200rpm) but stock springs/retainers are still reliable for a 7500rpm redline - some claim to be running 8000rpm redlines on their stock heads, but personally I think 7500rpm is a safe limit. Supra comes stock with Bilstein suspension and torsen LSD, which is an outright advantage for the Supra already. 300rwkw could easily be acheived with a GT30/35 on a supra and would have a bucketload more response than the same turbo on a 2.8l engine... Why do people assume you can only get a huge turbo for supras? Look at the Amuse Supra. It runs a GT30 using a STOCK manifold with a special Amuse-made bolt on t3 flange. That car runs something like 600nm of torque from 3000rpm all the way to 7200rpm and thats with stock fuel system and only minor bolt on mods.

If it's released here for <60k brand new, I'm definately getting one!

24 ftw! Generally affordable cars have a younger base!

If Australians had any intelligence the power would come from nuclear power plants...

I'm running this group buy off Supraforums, but in order to get some extra numbers I'm posting here also. For those who want to see the Supraforums buy, check the thread Here. TiAL 50mm Blow-Off Valve The Tial BOV is the best quality USA-made BOV on the market. The housing is made of 6061 Aluminum and this BOV has a 50mm opening to dispel air through. Tial BOV's include a weld-on flange for the price, making them an even better value. They are available with a 7, 9, or 11psi spring. Choose a 7psi spring for low boost applications (example: MR2 with intake and exhaust); choose a 9psi spring for medium boost applications (example Eclipse with 20G turbo); choose 11psi for high boost applications (example Evo VIII with HKS Turbo Kit). This BOV is available in multiple anodized colors to better suit your engine compartment design and theme. You can get this BOV in Black, Blue, Purple Red, or Silver. TiAL 38mm Wastegate -347 Stainless Steel Alloy is used for valve and valve housing. -High temperature silicone Nomex reinforced actuator diaphragm -17-7 PH Stainless Steel actuator spring gives consistent pressure at high temperature, resists "relaxing" at temperature to 900F (483C) -Nitronic 60 Stainless Steel is used for the valve seat, and valve bushing the same material used in the higher level gates for reliability and longevity -CNC Machined 304L 12mm thick weld flanges -Low Cost -100% made is USA TiAL 44mm Wastegate -High temp NiCrFe based alloy is used for valve and 347SS valve housing will offer longer product life compared to competing designs. -High temperature silicone Nomex reinforced actuator diaphragm. -17-7 PH Stainless Steel actuator spring gives consistent pressure at high temperature, resist "relaxing" at temperature to 900F (483C). -Nitronic 60 Stainless Steel is used for the valve seat, and valve bushing. -All Stainless Steel hardware. -Mating weld flanges are 304L -Wastegates shipped with air fittings and stainless hardware. Price List: TiAL 50mm Blow-Off Valve: 5 orders: $290 delivered 10 orders: $280 delivered TiAL 38mm Wastegate (0.3bar - 1bar spring): 5 orders: $365 delivered 10 orders: $355 delivered TiAL 38mm Wastegate (1.1bar - 1.6bar spring): 5 orders: $390 delivered 10 orders: $380 delivered TiAL 44mm Wastegate (0.2bar - 0.9bar spring): 5 orders: $550 delivered 10 orders: $540 delivered Put down what you would like and spring rate for wastegates: 1. Macross - 44mm - 0.9bar (Supraforums) 2. YJZ-70T - 44mm - 0.9bar (Supraforums) 3. 4. 5. 1. Macross - 50mm - 11psi - Black (Supraforums) 2. YJZ-70T - 50mm - 11psi - Black (Supraforums) 3. woofa347 - 50mm - 11psi - Purple (Supraforums) 4. kyora - 50mm - 11psi - Black (Supraforums) 5. In line with SAU group buy policy, cutoff for SAU members is May 15th, these products are being supplied by Velocity Performance, USA. Products can either be picked up from my residence, or anywhere nearby in Western Sydney (between Parramatta, Fairfield & Liverpool), which $10 is cut off the price, or will be delivered.

I can't really comment on walbro vs tomei, as I'm not a skyline specialist but with the walbro pumps as was already stated you can get a kit for it. There are 2 types of walbro pumps, the GSS341 and the GSS341HP - High Pressure. The standard pumps do not handle high pressure very well, rather than explain, here's a graph that shows the difference: The walbros are extensively used in the USA with high power Supra's where they run multiples for higher HP applications without any issue. Personally I like the idea of a high pressure 255lph pump with fitting kit for a cheap price, I just finished doing a group buy on the supraforums for $165 for a direct fit kit delivered, you can't really beat the price compared to other pumps.

Uh... the gold Volk GTC's are NOT painted in Top Secret gold, what gave anyone that idea? They are painted from the factory by volk...

While I agree with what you say, it's really not possible for me to "save up a bit longer" and be able to spend more there. Between my current debts, bills and car it would simply take me at least 2.5-3 years to be able to afford a "proper" holiday until that time, because the cost of the plane tickets would double what I'm paying now. I'd rather take a tight ass holiday now and a "proper" holiday later on, which I can do comfortably than hanging on for 3 years to get the full effect! My frient went with 5k for 5 days and left with nothing, I'd rather spend less than half that for double the time and quite happily bring home nothing but photos and memories. Cheers mate! Just what I'm looking for

Ok based on the recommendations here, I'm going to stay relatively close to Osaka, I've looked at some accomodation and it looks like I can manage in a 2/2.5 star on a accomodation budget of $100/night. I'm not particularly worried about food, I'm not going to be doing any shopping there either, mainly sight seeing and taking in the culture. I've revised my destinations, but would like to know if anyone knows any other good destinations around Osaka or any nightlife around there too. Also if anyone can let me know some details about public transport, as apparently it stops at around 11pm from what I've heard? New destinations: Kyoto Mount Koya Hiroshima (probably the only trip more than a couple of hours from Osaka I'll be taking due to cost of travel) cheers!

Sorry I should have specified, the $1500 is after we have already paid for airfares, which are costing only $1k each return

Hey guys, looking for a bit of help... decided I'm going to take a holiday to Japan in July for 10 days, but I have no idea what to see and how I'm going to manage my funds, as they will be quite tight so I'm going to do it on quite a budget. Budget: $1500 each (me and my missus) - $3000 total I'll have $500 emergency cash come into my account 5 days through the holiday if the need arises, but I'm hoping it won't! So, where are some good places to visit starting (and finishing) in Osaka in 10 days? I definately want to check out Tokyo and Hiroshima - also want to check out any car shows that might beon the way and some spare parts shops if there are ny good ones worth seeing, but apart from that I have no itinerary, so I'm hoping out the guys here can give me some ideas! It's going to be a real backpackers tour so any tips on cheap eats, travel, etc are appreciated! I have limited Japanese knowledge, I can read katakana and hiragana and can speak limited Japanese (enough to get around, order things, basic conversation, ask where things are, etc) but cannot read kanji. Thanks guys!!

I actually have a copy of the Australian ADR's (which is what the cops use to defect you) and I've been meaning to look into printing specific sections around these items (BOV, Pod, etc) but the program is quite user un-friendly. Anyone with a high speed connection want to have a look through it for me? I think it's about 250mb for the program, would love to have some help finding the specific sections on this should I ever need to confront a cop with the info, would certainly put them in their place!

Yeah, because all 1000hp cars have all their power from 700rpm... It's called a throttle, it has more than "on" and "off" settings you know?

So it's ok for a cop to incite this behaviour, putting innocent lives at risk, but only if it saves one person from getting killed - by potentially putting many more in danger. RIGHT And I live about 5 mins from a cop shop, house has been broken into, rung the cop shop "Uh were sorry we can't do anything for you, too bad", this even when I told them the guys were coming back. Then on an occasion they actually decided to show up, they came about 5 hours later...

How exactly do you ram a car that is pursuing you from behind, can out brake, out corner and out accelerate most of the cars on the road?

Each car has it's merits, end of story.

Just guessed a figure as I wasn't sure of exact weight. I'm not saying you didn't run that time, I'm saying the chance of you running that time with only what you listed was highly unlikely, a capable driver can't even come close to running the car 100% perfectly down the 1/4, so potentially your saying that a 12.5 @ 116mph isn't even the best a "mildly" modified r33 can do, I'm sure you can see the issue here, if the rb25 was so capable with such little modifications, why didn't they just use this instead of the rb26 in the gtr's?

Right, a 12.5 @ 116 in a "near stock" R33?? According to the drag calculator at http://www.dragsource.com/index.php?navsel...mp;calctoview=4 and also using http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/calculators.html calculators, estimating an R33 has a weight of 1500kg (3306lb), to run a 12.5 @ 116 would require approximately 402.7rwhp or 300rwkw. Wow! I never knew those rb25's produced such cheap power, maybe I should go buy me 2!

Are you kidding? My bro has a Golf GTi and the DSG is the best gearbox I have EVER experienced, it shifted faster and most smoothly than anything I have ever felt, if it's taking a second to shift there's something seriously wrong with it... I don't know how the Skyline gearbox is, but the Supra 6spd Getrag unit is really clunky, it's very solid and you can certainly feel it when driving, it's not a super refined box, but you get that from a racing box.

I agree with the above that it's possible to tip it, but to slide for 30m going 40km/hr? I don't think so...

Do you have to mail the form back to them? Can't we just fax or something?