Kinks

exactly.

Dude a couple of things: A. I'm not the one who bumped an ancient thread, you appear to have a lot of time on your hands to read things that closely and then take exception to something and post. Yes, I'm sure he will never read my reply. Big whoop. B. That's great, but my original comment still stands that if you "just bought" a set of tyres you are totally unqualified to comment on them. Wait until they are half worn, and if they are still a great tyre then you can wax idiotic about them. Messiah's post above mine and Duncan's previously are perfect examples of people whose opinion I DO take seriously (except Duncan, sorry mate ) because they have been through several sets and nothing else compares. C. My comment was not directed at FK452s in particular, so your point is irrelevant D. You clearly have me beat in the twat department after missing the point so conclusively, and I am not interested in challenging you at being a complete douche.

it's more likely due to R&R (rich and retard). as soon as the ECU detects that you've gone too far out of the normal envelope it pulls timing and dumps in fuel to save the motor. if you're pushing 250rwkw you need a standalone ECU dude. don't waste your time continuing with the factory item. i'd be VERY surprised if anyone made 290kw on a genuine stock ECU even with a fuel fiddler intercept - gotta be remapped at least.

forget the merc you own two skylines? asshole

PERFORMANCE GAINS MAN WHO CARES YOU WOULD LOOK SO FULLEEEEEEE SIIIIIIIIICK!!!!!! no gains, nada none. not until you were doing 200+km/h - below those speeds you would just appear to be the wanker that you are.

exactly. my R31 used to get parked on the street, on a decent slope no less. someone tried to nick it one night and couldn't get it started because of the hidden kill switch that you had to push every time before starting the car - only thing that saved me from having no car as it was quite modified and only had 3rd party property on it (8 grand car would have cost me 3 grand a year to insure.. screw that!). the standard steering lock that holds your wheels at an angle is easy to defeat, my steering lock was busted. they rolled it down the street either to get it away from the house or trying to clutch start it, failed to do so and left it. hidden kill switch ftw (if you don't have an alarm system anyway). funny story though - about 6 months later i sold the car and the guy who bought it went to transfer the rego and the RTA goes "umm this car is marked as stolen, we're not doing shit" after he paid me cash for it. he called me and the penny dropped - when i reported the attempted theft the cops had marked it as stolen and then when they came out to see it they were supposed to mark it recovered but never did - I had been driving a "stolen" car around for 6 months and never got pulled over!!!! :lol: sorted it out with the local police station and all was sweet, poor buyer tho he must have been shitting himself.

some high res pics (any gutter rash)? centre caps? and location, thanks.

no offence but i have had more than one set of tyres that have been brand new and I've gone "wow these are great so much better than my old tyres". You have compared shiny new fresh rubber with no heat cycling to harden them, with old tyres that have had hundreds of heat cycles, no tread and old hard rubber. The true test of a tyre IMO is what it feels like when it is half worn. I ignore anyone who gets new tyres and posts about how good they are. I'm currently running RE001 and they are decent, especially for the money. Better than the 3000A's I had on it before but I would like a bit more wet grip if possible. I may be asking a bit much The RE001s have lasted about 20,000km for me so far and they are half way gone. Have only tried the 326's in Falken's range and they make a wooden wheel from a chariot look grippy.

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2010/02...-history-gen-1/ http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2010/02...erations-gen-2/ http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2010/02...erations-gen-3/ http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2010/02...gen-4-ken-mary/ http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2010/02...ns-gen-5-japan/ enjoy

could it be the sensor for the low fuel dash light? I have noticed that my low fuel light is completely inconsistent with the fuel gauge so it would make sense that the sensors for each were in completely different spots.

you have too many car problems, obviously turbo is beyond your abilities if you are thinking of NAing it.. you need an SR20DE pulsar.

I guess you've got a 50/50 chance of everything working out fine vs being an enormous 'tard.

actually his post was one of the more intelligent in the thread. if you make "look at me" modifications to your car then expect police to notice as well as the girls (or guys ) you're trying to impress. I've never been pulled over "for driving a skyline" and I've owned skylines for 5 years. Honestly, if a cop U-turned to pull me over, RBT etc and then sent me on my way with a helpful tip about there being a blitz on I would be thankful. Sounds like he was trying to keep you driving safe rather than hassling you for no reason. Cops don't know if you're a dickhead or not until they pull you over, but they know dickheads drive skylines (unfortunately) so they give you an attitude check. If you are polite then everything is fine if you're a knob then they will make your life miserable. Simple.

solid advice.

RE001 are a good basic "budget performance" tyre. Being a powerful RWD car though you have to be careful in the wet. Mine are half worn and will snap out on a whim if the road surface is slick - rough bitumen seems fine but worn bitumen is like ice. Going to spend more next time and get something with more grip in the wet. I certainly would not like anything less than an RE001, I had 3000A's on before and after doing only 200km on them the grip levels dropped off.

brake pads have alignment now?? damn, where have i been hiding..

Well if my car's whatever can be worn out at 33k and still exactly the same amount of worn out at 103k then they can stay that way. The gearbox is still mint and I'm not pulling it apart for shits and giggles!

I completely disagree. I would say the opposite - when a clutch is engaged then it is squeezed against the flywheel. whatever fancy footwork you are doing is irrelevant, as you get electronically actuated clutches as well eg A/C compressor. A/C compressor clutch engaged = A/C running. disengaged = freewheeling.

typical around town is about 12-13L/100km with a bit of boosting. It will use 14L/100km if I am enjoying myself.

I'd only bother if it has been getting louder. i've had a similar noise since 30,xxxkm (when I bought the car), I now have 103,xxxkm on it and the noise isn't any louder.

very common. I picked up my car with 33,xxxkm on it and it now has 103,xxxkm on it. It has had a "noisy clutch" since day 1, and hasn't gotten any louder in that time. Don't worry about it unless it gets a lot noisier. Some vibration coming through gear knob is also normal. You are driving a sports car now not a hatchback with a pot full of porridge under the hood!! (in FWD cars there are long linkages for the gearstick to go forwards up to the gearbox in the engine bay, stops some of the vibration. in a RWD car the gearstick goes directly into the box). My gearstick also moves a bit when I come on and off the throttle or go over bumps - again it's normal my box is mint and I have checked all the mounts are done up tight.

^^ again, the plastic would have to be petrol resistant for it to be worthwhile. The best way to check is like Abe says, put it in a jar of petrol for a few days and see if it dissolves.

aftermarket exhausts don't produce power at all - just noise. you want to keep the exhaust size small so it keeps the gas velocity up, you will actually make more power with a pea shooter exhaust - why do you think small cars have them they have to make the most of having a tiny engine!!

actually that's not quite right. you know how air heats up when you compress it? (like pumping up a bike tyre using a hand pump, or an air compressor). well the opposite happens when you let air expand. guess what happens with a closed throttle body eg at idle and light loads? it's expanding into the vacuum in your inlet manifold. the air temperature doesn't have to be freezing for that expansion to cause a problem, it will ice up your throttle and make it stick. sure, not a problem on a 20C day when your underbonnet temps are 60C+, but it would make a minor difference at part throttle and no difference at WOT, the air is flowing through that area way too quickly to pick up any heat. each to their own but I'd rather not risk the chance of a stuck throttle if I do venture into cooler areas.

I have been driving skylines for over 6 years and have never been hassled "for driving a skyline". My R31 even had a loud exhaust on it, aftermarket wheels and a front mount (not to mention the 5 puck clutch and locked diff). MYTH BUSTED.