Zensoku

you've got to remember that when bleed valves are used to replace the factory solenoids, most have a smaller inlet orifice than the outlet orifice which is designed to bring boost on sooner due to the pressure restriction not being able to push open the wastegate actuator (which opens the wastegate to stabilise shaft speed and boost) as quickly as when there is no restrictor. also bleed valves, due to their nature can only "flow" a certain amount of air. this is why you see boost spikes, because in that split second that your boost gauge goes to say 16psi then drops back to 14psi, this is the exact moment the wastegate actuator doesn't "see" the defined boost pressure that you've set your bleeder to. Chiptorque used to make their own pneumatic bleeders, but i have heard from someone that works there, they will be switching to the GFB Atomic bleeder now, as their product costs more to make and the GFB product works alot better.

thanks, looked at their site, and had Autobarn Bundall and Chiptorque Nerang as Australian distributers on the links page. I'll try them since they are about 20min away from me. Thanks again.

...of course! :zap: Just struck me just then, that they were the people to try. Thanks, but that website URL isn't right...

As discussed in another thread, i need this GReddy product or similar to hook up my oil temperature gauge. The following pic, you can just make out that it's the threads i need, M12x1.25 and 1/8"NPT. It will need to suit the thread of the oil filter to suit an R32 GTR as well. Is there someone that stocks one of these, or wants to get rid of one of these here in Australia? RRP is $68 USD or around 8,600 Yen! Surely someone can do better. Let me know! Thanks.

I hate to bring back my own thread again, but, don't you hate it when you spend the time, money and effort in engineering a one-off part to do something (in this case an adaptor for a water temp sender) and you could have bought something like this: But my reason for this post, was whether anyone has seen this oil filter sandwich adaptor for sale anywhere here in Australia? It would help me alot if i could get ahold of this product to help hook up my oil temperature gauge (as i discussed above): The following pic, you can just make out that it's the threads i need, M12x1.25 and 1/8"NPT. It will need to suit the thread of the oil filter to suit an R32 GTR as well. Thanks.

Warpspeed, i see your point. But after squinting at the pic again, the polished alloy pipe to the right of the supercharger (which everyone assumes to connect to the twin turbo outlet piping at a 90 degree) might actually be the supercharger inlet piping with the air inlet/filter piping out of view. The pipe to the left of the supercharger (near the block) which curves around to the top might be the supercharger outlet which isn't connected in this pic. I haven't seen this supercharger before, so it is hard to figure out the way it is oriented. Even if this twincharging (triplecharging?!) setup was to work, there would have to be some sort of one-way check valve or vacuum diaphram which prevents the supercharger from blowing air back through the turbo outlets on low boost and low RPM. This is before there is enough exhaust backpressure coming from the exhaust manifolds to start spooling up the turbos and then merge with the flow of the supercharger (which would then run "out of puff" in the top end) Another problem i can see with this setup is on RB26DETT's having twin AFM's which would cause all kinds of fueling problems if more or less air is being forced into the engine without the AFM's measuring it. That wouldn't be a problem if the management was switched to MAP based control from the inlet plenum. If this setup actually worked this would make an otherwise very laggy twin turbo setup come onto boost very quickly from the instant boost creating nature of the supercharger. Creating instant exhaust backpressure to spool the turbos - NO LAG! (and no traction, i'd imagine too)

LOL Looks like we are going off into all kind of tangents, hijacking this thread.. but, i read a magazine article or could have possibly been an autospeed online article about the "Turbo Zet electronic turbo" (i think thats what it's called). It retails for over $400, and this writer was trying his hardest to drop hints that this product was no better than a pair of 12V PC cooling fans that can be had for under $40. Talk about a scamm. Makes me wonder how many fools have bought one because they thought it was a budget "turbo" upgrade! LOL

Warpspeed, i still don't think that it's fake and been doctored in Photoshop. Here is another pic that i had downloaded quite some time ago. I did a search on Google, and here is the pic: I remember saving the pic from a homepage that had some pics he'd taken at the Tokyo Auto Salon 2000. It was showcasing a new line of superchargers that either Blitz or HKS or some other tuner was working on. I can't see how the supercharger would be reversing air flow through the two turbos, because, with the twin turbos on their own, each turbo wouldn't be reversing air flow on eachother normally. This is what a blow off valve or pop-off valve (with a spring rate set to open at a certain pressure) is for. Only the engine can consume the air once the throttle bodies are wide open. But, my thought was that there'd be some serious surging problems. A RB26 head can only flow so many CFM.

...adding my $0.02... in addition to the comments so far, Supercharging would give a more linear and predictable power delivery, being belt drive off the crank, unlike most larger turbochargers would give a sudden rush of power, as the turbo spools up, and wastegate opens to deliver full boost. Depends on the purpose of the car, it's engine, and the practicality of both installs. That RB26DETT with the twin high mounted turbos AND supercharger is INSANE! I would have though that all of that forced induction would have to create some sort of airflow bottleneck, surely... Would this make it an RB26DETTS?

I hate to disagree with anyone on these forums, but that isn't entirely true. We sell both the Autotechnica and Trifa brands of Xenon Bulbs where i work which both feature a blue tint glass. Even the Platinum series has a blue/redish tinge for glare reduction. We have come across the legality issues of these time and time again, and in the end, approached the authorities for answers. I was faxed back an ADR report, days later, which is hard to digest, but basically says that any replacement globe must be no higher than the highest factory fitted wattage. (ie: H4: 60W/55W) and must bear: Brand/manufacturer and either the "CE" international logo and/or any other international standards number. (ie: ISO-XXXX, etc) to be legal. Cops will still like to defect whatever they like, but, this will be cannon fodder for when and if i ever get defected for having these "blue" lights. You have got to remember that some cars come out factory with the Xenon globes. I realise that not all have the bluish tinge, but have you ever noticed the latest BMW's and Audi's getting around with bright bluish Xenons?

Straight from the HKS website: GT-SS (low mount, bolt on) GT-RS (low mount, bolt on) GT2835 (Full Special Kit) A comparison: That last comparison has changed since i last saw it on their website. The old pic was easier to read and showed what order each individual turbo had as far as supporting power, response, etc. Obviously all of HKS's graphs will be skewed to make their product look better, but the power figures will vary from car to car obviously depending on the other mods to support these turbos.

I'd be interested to know if anyone has bought an "off-hte-shelf" sump from these guys yet: http://www.highenergy.com.au

R33 GTR has two O2 sensors. I just changed my turbos for HKS items recently, and by memory, it was a 17mm Flare spanner i used to get the O2 sensors off. You could probably use an open ended spanner too. Just make sure you put the right ones back in each dump pipe. One has a wider plug than the other. You will have to take all of the piping off the top to get to them. ("Twin Turbo" pipe, rubber hoses, etc.) One at the back is awkward to get to. Hope that helps.

In QLD, if the car has neons and they are turned on (inside or out) it must be on private property and parked for it to be legal. Watching the Saturday night cruises around here, sees both plain uniform/unmarked police car and regular marked police cars doing the rounds both on the streets and in the BWCC (Broadwater car park) defect people with neons even if they are parked. This is because of the car park being a public access. Ever since movies like The F & the F, every man and his dog is fitting undercar neons to his ride. It looks good on some cars if done properly, but i had to laugh when i saw a Mitsubishi Colt with 2 red undercar neons. They were fitted that low that you could see the fluroescent tubes! Looked like a toaster on wheels!

I assume you mean the newer style Xenon globes. Not the older Halogen which throw a yellowish light. The Xenon's throw a white light usually with a blue tinge. These are 100% legal in QLD if: They are the standard wattage. (Same as highest factory fitted globes) And they bear the "CE" logo or similar International standards logo. Cops like to pull people over with the bluish tinge globes for defects. These are usually the $%#@ers which put the coloured silicon bulb sleeves over their parker lights.

Sounds like part of a Nissan part number. ie: XXXXX-RR581 My Nismo adj fuel regulator was 22670-RR580 Try getting the www.nismo.co.jp website put through a Japanese to English translator.

The RB30 that i speak of is the single cam 3 litre RB engine from the earlier R31 Skyline and also found in the GM-Holden Commodore VL which is our domestic vehicle here in Australia and New Zealand. I have no experience with the RB25 sump from the R33 Skylines, although, i do know that they do share the same bolt pattern as the RB30 sump that i have used. But if you do get a hold of one, get the oil pickup/strainer as well, to compare it against your Stagea 4WD sump and it's oil pickup/strainer location. I found it to be very different when i compared the R32 GTR 4WD sump and pickup in comparison to the RB30 sump and pickup. But i'd go the extra mile (no pun intended!) and get some extra baffling, and oil control devices built into the sump like, trapdoors, etc. If i was going to do it all over again, and wanted a bolt on sump that WILL WORK. i'd be looking at these guys: http://www.highenergy.com.au/ They have been suppling to the Australian motorsport industry for years and know their stuff. Crank scrapers, mesh windage trays, etc. As far as i know, they do Import stuff as well. Worth looking into to avoid the heartache of a sump that doesn't work very well. (Like mine used to) It's not exactly piece of mind when you've got all of the opposite lock in the world coming around a corner, and a glimpse of the oil pressure gauge shows zero! Good luck with your conversion!

Nameless EJ6, that was me that told you about the two different bolt patterns on the bottom of the RB26DETT block. GTR 4WD sump uses the larger outside threads, RB25, RB20, RB30, etc use the smaller inside threads. The only reason that i advised against the direction that i took (and learnt oil starvation problems from) with the RB30 sump, was because that it was such a pain in the %$#@ conversion, that you'd be better off sticking with the 4WD sump and getting the front diff and drive shafts removed. Sydneykid makes an excellent point about windage trays, baffles, wings, trapdoors, etc. While you have the sump off i would strongly suggest looking into these oil control devices. If you can get a hold of the current ZOOM magazine sold here in Australia (i believe that it is distributed over there too) it has a bit of a guide to sumps in it.

Straight out of my service manual: Australian Nissan Skyline/Pintara 1986-1990 Manual 3.7:1 Auto 3.889:1 Pintara Auto: 4.1:1 (to help the lazy CA20 motor rev into it's torque range) This is the Borg Warner BTR78 series 2 pinion (weak!) diff. This diff was also found in: XT-EA Ford Falcon Late VK-VR Commodore Not sure with the 25 spline LSD's or 28 spline 4 pinion LSD's.

Just adding my $0.02... My R32 GTR has just "RB26" with the engine number stamped beneath that. Obviously all the blocks are the same. RB20, RB25, RB26, RB30, etc, etc.

I'm not sure with the Stagea's, but, here is my experience with converting from R32 GTR (looks similar to your picture) 4WD to RWD. I used an RB30E sump, and pickup. Mind you, it wasn't a bolt on proposition like everyone makes it out to be. I found myself removing the rear part of the windage/baffle tray that bolts to the bottom of the crank girdle. I had to do this to clear the rear of the RB30E sump. I also had to cut part of the baffle in the RB30E sump, because the pickups are in a different spot. (more forward on the RB30E) Also had to put a "bulge" in the side of this sump where the pickup comes off the block to clear it. There are two different bolt patterns on the bottom of the R32 RB26DETT block, the RB30E sump uses the inside ones. If i were you, i'd be modifying the original 4WD sump. (removing the front diff and driveshaft section through the middle of it. Because the direction i took, removed ALOT of the baffling. Not good for oil control, as i have now learned.

Hmm, 31 views, no replies, thanks guys! At least you can learn from my experiences here: Well, i've fitted the oil pressure gauge with no problems at all, works well. Much better than the original gauge that has all sorts of problems reading accurately. Only problem i did come across was that the OE Nissan oil temperature sender is a VERY obscure thread size. A very rare M12x1.25 thread. Realising that a 1/8"NPT threaded sender won't fit, i went to my local Enzed and had no luck with getting an adaptor. Same story at Pirtek, they said only M12x1.5 thread is the most common and doesn't even come close.. Plan B, decided to test the original Nissan sender against the sender supplied with the gauge. This involved getting out my multimeter, digital thermometer and tested the resistance of both senders at different temps in a saucepan of water on the stove!! :bahaha: No good there, the senders both having completely different ohm ranges. Plan C, tried looking through VDO's catalogue for an appropriate sender. Turns out that their only sender in the thread that i was after also had the wrong ohms range. Looks like the oil temperature gauge stays off for the time being until i can figure out a way to get an adaptor fabricated or find a suitable means of fitting this gauge. Any suggestions?

Need quick replies please, i'll be doing this today! I am putting some aftermarket gauges into my car: Water temp, Oil pressure & Oil temp. I already know that i can't remove the factory water temp sender near the thermostat housing, as this reports back to the ECU the engine temp. I've already had a friend fabricate an alloy "T" pipe to splice into the top radiator hose, with a fitting welded onto it to take the water temp sender. That's sorted... But... Would i be interfering with the ECU or car in any way by removing the stock oil pressure sender (just below the inlet plenum & AAC valve) and stock oil temp sender (behind the oil filter and close to the block) and fitting the senders that were supplied with the gauges? I was feeling pretty confident that it was ok, before i had a closer look at noticed alot more wiring than i thought there'd be coming from these senders in the wiring loom... Thanks for the quick replies in advance.

Do a search or have a look at this recent topic i posted to: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...?threadid=19013

After reading all of these posts, Lunatic Dancer appears to be the most informed, and is pretty much spot on with what he is saying. I hate to be thrown into the basket as being the "self confessed know-it-all" but where i work every day, i am faced with making recommendations on spark plugs to normal every day drivers and enthusiasts alike, i am bored and have got time to kill, so here goes... 1. You can put in NGK "R" copper plugs, just don't expect a very long life, as the electrode isn't as fine as the Iridium IX plugs in particular, and generally wear and foul very quickly. Depending on the condition of your engine, and how you drive your car (ie: hard all of the time?) expect in between 10,000km-15,000km life. 2. NGK Platinum plugs are the "old school" plugs and have been around for over 15 years now. they basically addressed the problem of copper plugs generally fouling and wearing out due to their platinum coating. (expect up to 100,000km in a standard, well maintained and tuned engine) 3. NGK Iridiums are the newer technology plugs, they come in IX, Iriway and Iritop variants. Most commonly sold are the Iridium IX's due to their long life (around 150,000km, again in a well maintained and tuned engine) and ability to provide a sharper, stronger spark due to their ultra fine tip on the electrode which requires less voltage to create a good spark, hence, make slightly more power and stable combustion. Also, in their design nature, they "self clean" the carbon buildup around the electrodes to avoid fouling. 4. They can be bought pre-gapped at 0.8mm and 1.1mm as the most popular preset gaps. the dash eleven on the end of the part number designates a 1.1mm gap. no dash and a number on the end defaults to a 0.8mm gap. 5. Going to a colder heat range (going up in the number) generally allows for more power, less economy. this alters the length of the combustion process. Going to a hotter heat ranger is required when you need a hotter combustion to control oil fouling the plugs in tired engine which uses oil (rings aren't sealing well, and getting a little bit of blow-by) 6. Iriway and Iritop NGK's have a lower life than the IX's and are meant for race use. Note that all of the Japanese name brands like HKS, TRUST, etc have NGK "rebadge" these plugs as their own... 7. Some engines that have higher boost than standard suffer from misfires, so a slightly smaller gap helps. (ie: Down from 1.1mm to around 0.7mm-0.8mm usually) 8. Regap platinum and Iridium plugs at your own risk, as you can scratch the coating off both the electrodes and the grounds. 9. NGK V-Grooves were introduced for economy reasons and are still the same as regular coppers, but with a "V" cut into the end of the electrode tip to allow a btter way for the spark to jump across and ground itself. Make up your own decision with plugs, taking into consideration, cost, life expectancy, your intended driving style. (track, drag, street) From memory: NGK "R" copper: BCPR6ES-11 NGK Platinum: PFR6A-11 NGK Iridium IX: BCPR6EIX-11 remember to remove the -11 if you want the default 0.8mm gap instead. and the IX's are now generally cheaper than the platinums now. they RRP at $18.50 each AUD. This will be my last post on plugs, as i have posted before on this topic numerous times, hope that this is all of some help and consideration... Zen..