Zensoku

I was always under the impression that the R32 and R33 GTR computers had the same pinouts and plug loom... As the Apexi Power FC for a R32 GTR can be used on an R33 GTR and vice versa... That picture of the pinouts above, does not look correct to me... I'm sure that someone else can substantiate this for me, and i have pics of the pinouts on a R32 GTR computer and the workshop manual as well. Hope that helps... Let me know if you want to see the R32 GTR pics (i'll have to dig around on my computer for awhile to find them!)

1) Go into your nearest parts shop like Supercheap Auto and grab a hold of an NGK Catalogue that is usually hanging off a chain around the ignition area and look inside the first few pages, there are usually around about 10 different pictures of what used spark plugs look like in various conditions. A healthy RB engine should have a light greyish brown colour, a bit more orangey brown if you're using octane boosters and premium unleadeds like BP Ultimate, Shell Optimax, etc, etc. 2) NGK plugs without a dash and a number on the end are defaulted to a 0.8mm gap. Dash eleven for example (-11) is gapped to 1.1mm. Your BCPR6E is gapped straight out of the box as 0.8mm... oh and you will foul standard coppers very quickly in a turbo RB engine, i'd lean towards Iridiums unless you feel like changing coppers all the time... hope that helps...

Yeah, the idea being, that the vapour that is produced in your fuel tank as it empties, is drawn into the engine to be burnt at certain engine conditions (vacuum created at idle and cruising speeds?) after it has reacted with the carbon pellets and air drawn into the carbon canister. This whole useless and power reducing system probably stuffs up fuel/air ratios slightly just to stop this vapour getting into the atmosphere?!? Having this removed or blocked intentionally will give you a big fine and defect notice!

This is the Biondo Racing Products Line Lock Kit, Part number BR44050 which is available to any parts shops like Supercheap Auto, Repco, Autobarn, etc, etc by special order through Rocket Industries... I can't see why it wouldn't work with ABS equipped cars, because as long as this hooked up down stream from the ABS system, then you would be locking hydraulic pressure between the ABS system and the calipers...

maintaining optimum camber and positive caster settings when you're going hard into a corner (or even starting a controlled drift) is the name of the game. To do this, you need: A higher spring rate (coilovers are best, offer more travel than lowered springs in OE strut assemblies) Damper adjustment (not mandatory, but some drivers notice a huge difference in weight transfer characteristics here) Larger sway bars with polyurethane bushes (Note that this isn't to be confused with everyone's favourite which is the shiny strut bar!! Sway bars control body roll, not strut bars!) and you can continually spend money on getting polyurethane bushes throughout and the more adjustable strut tops and control arms you have, the more control you have over your handling.... oh and strut bars merely look good and maintain dynamic camber, not that skylines have weak strut towers which which flex badly anyway! but for a street car, this makes the ride very harsh! Whiteline's kits are well matched for a locally made setup.

this is partly true. With anything automotive, nothing is impossible as long as you have the money, time, knowledge and engineering finesse to perform such a conversion. Obviously the physical size of the box will be of first interest - it may not clear you car's transmission tunnel, exhaust(s), etc. Obviously you would need to get a laser cut adaptor plate made which converts between the skyline RB26DETT block bolt pattern for the gearbox side and also the corresponding pattern for your VG30DETT engine side. you will have to take into account all things like starter motor position and the use of a custom hybrid clutch assembly. A 4WD gearbox in a RWD? Don't hook up the front differential propeller shaft. Oh, and you'll need a tailshaft shortened or lengthened to suit with a skyline front yokes to 300ZX rear yokes. Serious track and drag racers do this all the time when swapping around transmissions. but this poses the question on a street car, and with such a hassle: WHY???

bon appetit! a fresh can of worms has just been served! lol :bahaha: a bar & plate must have an advantage in regards to unrestricting flow to the radiator...

Thanks for all of your replies and opinions... Just like SLY33 said that he was sceptical at first because of it's price, I feel more at ease now that your responses were nothing but positive and feel like this well priced cooler isn't a cheap and nasty piece of work that goes with the saying "you pay for what you get"... Thanks again, and one hybrid intercooler will be on the way! Cheers.

Guys, I know that this has no doubt been covered a million times before, the whole bar & plate VS. tube & fin intercooler debate, so please don't be critical, but, here goes... I am considering ordering the "Hybrid" brand of intercooler which is of bar & plate & fin design and the core measures 600x300x76mm with cast alloy end tanks which have 3" inlets and outlets. I am getting this at trade price, but this unit retails for around $880. (See www.powerdigger.com for a look.) Actually here is the link: https://secure-krakatoa.commercevault.com/p...INTERCOOLER.htm I know all about the general rule of thumb in regards to the pros and cons of each type of intercooler: The Bar and Plate having exceptional charge air cooling performance and a slightly higher pressure drop compared to an equivalently sized tube & fin design which offers more charge air flow at the cost of cooling efficiency. My question is of build quality and efficiency of this particular brand and type of bar & plate intercooler. How many people have a "Hybrid" brand intercooler fitted to their car? (Come on, put your hands up!) Please feel free to comment on them, both good and possibly bad. I realise that most Australian made intercoolers are of tube & fin manufacture and all bar & plate cores are imported from either USA or Japan, but after reading an in depth study of intercooling here: http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm I am even more confused and really questioning the quality and efficiency of this brand of intercooler, especially for the low price. Is it too good to be true? Are these just cheap and nasty or an absolute bargain? Before you ask what application i am hoping to using it in, or what power i am hoping to safely develop with this intercooler, i would prefer unbiased opinions based around the quality and efficiency of the "Hybrid" Intercoolers in general...

The bosch 0 580 254 040 would be the best option if you are planning on producing more power later on, only a a slight mod to the mounting it on the fuel pump pickup/ level sender for this to fit. Any spare parts stores like Supercheap, Repco, Autobarn can order these with overnight delivery for around $350 by memory...

...or if you want to make a few mods to the way the fuel is supplied and returned from the fuel rail, you can get a Malpassi Rising rate fuel regulator ordered through any spares parts store, like Supercheap, Repco, Autobarn, etc for around the $200 mark. Part number is: PK7EG Hope that helps.

Try nengun www.nengun.siteblast.com for a Nismo adjustable fuel regulator, Part number 22670-RR580 which sells for around 12,000 yen in Japan. I paid around $170 AUS plus freight for Nengun to send one over to me...

Cost of the chip was about $500 plus the dyno time... now that i think about it now, Apexi Power FC's are starting to go real cheap, ($1300+) and that would be a better proposition now if i were to recommend something now... I make 241rwkw in my R32 GTR which has the above mentioned chipped ECU, full upgraded exhaust from the turbos back - HKS dumps, Apexi front pipes, and a custom 3.5" Mandrel bent exhaust, K&N Pods and boost spikes as high as 16psi with standard turbos using a bleed valve.

same here: Had my original ROM removed from my stock ECU and had a Chiptorque EEPROM fitted, retuned on the dyno and has had speed limiter removed, rev limiter raised and fuel cut raised (requested to keep that just in case a wastegate line fell off)

...oh and i agree with your subject heading! whenever i call Robert Bosch Australia for a quote, i always seem to get someone who seems to be very arrogant and not very helpful at all... not good for business!

The Malpassi Rising rate fuel pressure regulator is what you want. Part number is: PK7EG and should retail for around $195. Rocket Industries is the only Australian supplier i can think of who supply these to stores like Supercheap Auto, Repco, etc, etc... If you want Bosch regulators, here is what i have jotted down into my "black book" of useful part numbers i have come across (Bosch don't market or catalogue these very well!): 0 280 500 740 (5 Bar, one outlet) 0 280 500 741 (5 Bar adjustable, dual outlet) 0 280 160 001 (3 Bar adjustable) Try changing the "B" on your part number to a zero "0". That might be the right part number that you were describing. I can check at work, if you are having trouble. Hope that helps...

If your early 80's fuel tank was rigged up originally for a carbie system, (is this for a conversion? or a skyline?) then i doubt that there would be any internal baffling at all. For around $100+, a surge tank is a good investment to remove any chance of fuel starvation and air bubbles from a pressurised EFI system when you go hard around corners, expecially on a low tank. Lets face it, any fuel pump will be sucking in some air in it's first few seconds of life... it will be unavoidable. Just prime the whole system the best you can.

If you do have a surge tank, i would be running the intank lift pump on it's own for at least 30 seconds until that surge tank is full and overflowing back to your fuel tank for awhile to remove the air bubbles. If you don't have a surge tank, then your intank lift pump will have already pressurised the fuel line up to the 910 bosch pump in a matter of a few seconds, in which case, the over pressure relief valve in your lift pump will be bypassing to protect from burning itself out (ie: it's sensing a "blockage" - the non operational 910)

Nengun is extremely reliable, trustworthy and best of course, cheap! Brent is a top guy and would have no hesitation in recommending him. i think that it's unfair to judge him on what his website is like. Sure, some things are out of date on there and with the fluctuating Japanese Yen and Aussie dollar of course his prices and stock won't always be accurate. Nengun has a business to run, and being a "one man band" i'm sure that he is extremely busy filling in all of our orders....

you've hit the nail on the head.:uh-huh: I have nothing to add.

children, this is another (fugly) fake.... some avid Japanese GTR freak has taken the concept image and spent quite a few hours using programs such as Adobe Photoshop to come up with that.... If this is what Nissan (influenced by Renault) have come up with, then i fear that the GTR has a grim future.

rev210 and Sydneykid: As a matter of fact our shop is on the Gold Coast, and i might just get some NOS stickers and decals put onto the dual horn buttons... but that would only encourage people to press them even more.... besides it makes my day when clueless enthusiasts can't determine the difference between what they've seen in a movie and what is REAL in the reality.... One of out suppliers is starting to get a bit unhappy with all of our quotes we are getting for our customers on NOS kits, bottles, solenoids, foggers, etc, etc that don't follow through into a special order, as more often than not most people can't afford these kits...

Duh, of course! :chairshot What was i thinking!

agh, yes... If it the wrong engine loading and rpm, then yes, i'd imagine that there would be a very loud bang followed by a conrod finding it's own way to cool itself........(ie: straight through the side of the block!) seriously, this would be very dangerous.... but that is what the "ricey arming red missile switch" is for!:bahaha:

The amount of times that I have seen poorly educated enthusiasts press the horn button(S) for NOS, and getting a dollar each time, i could afford to buy that R34 GTR.... Some people just have no idea, it cracks me up every time, after exchanging glances between other co-workers which share in my amusement.....