Risking

I wouldn't bother wasting your time or resources doing a water to air. If you want 600hp that's a walk in the park even for the cheap Chinese coolers on the market the expense you are going to go to setting it up and making it work could be far better spent on other things or even better put it away for a dry sump setup latter down the track. People don't care what's different on a race car they care about what works and is simple. An air to air is as simple as it gets and inexpensive. At the end of the day the negatives out weigh the positives extra weight, complexity of plumbing, extra water joints that can leak. Extra water lines that can fail, more water pumps and resiviours required. Additional radiator needed for the system. Additional fans and pump controllers/wiring. My oppinion way to much shit to potentially go wrong when the only major gain is possibly a few degrees off the inlet temps IF you get the whole thing right. And maybe a little less cooler piping which won't make squat difference anyways.

Selling off a few tires I won't or can't use various sizes from 17 to 18 inch best off pming for details and I'll check what I have price from 100 a set to 700 a set Sydney pick up only

By far my most fond memory of the place comes well before I ever even drove on the GP. The old Bandag bullet ripping hellis on the main straight and sitting on the hill watching rodney crick taking on the kiwis at the day night truck meetings during the early 90's. There was a photo that used to float around or crick coming onto the straight and rubbing the wall while the front screen was falling out. Then pitting for smith during the 90's with the Gemini sporty. From my early days racing karts on the north to winning races there over the last couple of years in gtr's all the memories are good. Crashed a few times won a few times, the old circuit claimed a few of my engines and gearboxes almost the whole car on numerous occassions. All in all I'll miss it.

I was driving the 32 you shot there. That was so close to a big spin but it recovered okay. Didnt realise the angle was that huge though! Was a very well run day. We had issues the night before in true GTR fasion. Spat a front CV boot, had a speed cut on the factory ECU to get rid of and oil cooler lines etc to be made. Between two drivers the pretty much stock GTR managed 80 something laps with no issues at all so was a sucessfull day.

Still for sale

From the developemnt I had done with the R32 ATTESSA and from what I was told by guys I had look at the coding of the control unit, the wheel speed sensors are used as one of the priority corrections, but are not used as a "mapping" axis. We cracked the control unit some time ago when playing around with Haltech PWM outputs etc. Its a fairly simple system so Im told (I know nothing about electronics), the unit was never made "tunable" but as far as nissans programing went we had that worked out and replicated with the haltech the best we could considering the inputs available to us. It broke all kinda things when you stuff around with the way the front drive is engaged. As far as running this car in the national SS championship. Whats it weigh?? Id have a guess it would be under the weight for a forced inducted 3L AWD??

After upgrading the race car to a Motec, and the road car to the race cars old Haltech im left with a perfect condition Power FC for sale. Been in the car for a year and a bit I guess, still in it running right now if someone wants it ill pull it out and send it off. Comes with the apexi boost controller kit and all wiring/ commander etc. Slight mark on the commander screen that would polish off if your fussy. Asking $1100 including delivery. Or local sydney pick up is fine

No idea how the boys did theirs. There is bugger all info around as no one really does it. Basicly I fabricated up a resiviour and feed it into the pump. From there the high pressure line runs out and into the rack. The return from the rack runs through a cooler then back into the resiviour Nothing overly complicated about it. Power is supplied from an ECU triggered output via a 60 amp relay. (yes they draw alot of current) The pump can be wired to ignition or to an ECU PWN output so that the steering only turns on when the engine is running. We mounted the pump inside the Front bumper rio where it is realativly safe and out of the way. Tilton may not do them anymore as mine were second hand when I purchased them 12 months ago. There are a few Holdens getting around that use them now, and the porka's as well. Price wise from memory mine were roughly $450 each second hand. If jay the new owner of my GTR has the time perhaps he can post up some photos of the set-up. It worked faultlessly the entire time I was using it and the steering was so much nicer to use.

was it not somewhere around the 2m 15sec reigon. Skaife set a lap record at 2m 15.46 not sure if it ever went quicker than that though.

We and a few others racing GTR's have been using electric steering pumps for some time. They work very well and free up the engine bay greatly. I had a Tilton pump on my old GTR and will be using one again on the new car, it had adjustable pressure regulator and internal bypass valves.

Both cars are still complete and race ready. Boz's old car is the spare parts hack now days. Will be interesting to see what kinda car the guys run in the new season....

Do have an evaporator pete, you can have it. Want a condensor and everything else too??

First up I DONT have the time to be running around posting items so it MUST be local pick up from Sydney the sutherland shire or Campbeltown/Camden areas ONLY Ill keep adding things as they are found 2 OS and 2 NS A pillar trims. R32 GTR perfect condition $40 the lot R32 GTR heater core, AC evaporator, blower fan etc $Free R32 GTR NS front guard, white in colour minor damage but repairable. $Free R32 GTR rear seats, upper and lower good condition, no burns or big marks $20 R32 gloove box, center console (lid slightly colapsed) kick pannels, rear trims (where rear doors would be) sun visors, door scuff plates, instrument cluster lower dash pannels etc $ Free J31 17 inch maxima wheels. skyline stud pattern, no idea of offsets will fit the rear of a GTS-t or earlier maxima etc. if they dont sell ill get $50 scrap for them so Asking $50 R32 GTR factory radiator Perfect condition with fan and shroud $40 R32 GTR factory center guages, few sets all work fine $20 Rear boot trims, think the whole set is there $30 Again in not interested in posting anything and it all must go by the 28th of novemeber

Nice sledge. John's car is actually 80% back together, ill be driving it to my new place next weekend so its fairly complete.

Im not aware of ross doing a balancer with power steer and Oil pump mandrel. We machined up a custom mandrel and machined the balancer to suit when I was still using conventional power steering. You could use the AC part of the pulley and re gear the PS pump to suit.

Ive been using 5 stage Barnes pumps for a couple of years now in several cars and never had an issue with them. Dazmo is right you will struggle to fit a 5 stage on the alternator side of the engine. Even with the Barnes pumps on the turbo side we have to modify the turbo inlet as the pressure out line fouls on the factory alloy intake.

Federal 595SS x2 245/45R17 90% tread $150 Potenza RE030 x3 235/45R17 50% tread $80 Potenza RE040 x2 225/45R18 60% tread $80 Ventus HRII x2 235/45R17 70% tread $80 Yokohama wet weather slicks x3 225/45R16 90% tread $100 Really prefer local pickup as sending tires can be a pain. Located in Sydney

Im selling a pair of front Porsche 997 cup car callipers. These are stagered 6 spot, monoblock, radial mount, ceramic inserts in all the pistons. Decent condition but bare in mind have come from a race car so they are paint damaged but in perfect working order. They are NOT the run of the mill porsche 6 spot calliper that do the rounds, these are the motorsport going calipers They come with a set of 70% pagid pads. The pad surface area is just under twice that of a normal GTR brembo calliper. Full floating 380mm brembo rotor with a modified Cup car hat. Adaptors to bolt onto a GTR, id personally not recommend them for a road car, they are noisey, the pads squeal like crazy and the rotors rattle like buggery but for a race car you wont buy anything better for the money. Id like something in the vacinity of $4000 for the whole set-up. photos will follow if there is interest in them. add up the cost of rotors (full floating) pads ($1100 new) callipers and the billet material and labour to produce the brackets I think its not a bad price.

wheels were sold 5 mins after posting this yesterday to the first person to contact me. if they are not picked up tuesday will be back up for sale Brad

Come and get it.. All done and seamed up ready to be primered and painted.

sorry but the tires are no use to me or anyone I know so they wont be separated. You could buy them as they are and sell the tires on yourself but I dont really have the time to so id rather sell together. Shipping to melbourne I have no idea....

forgot to mention for an R32 GTR, offset is +22 which can be seen in the last photo. All four rims are the same size and offset

I have for sale a set of 17*9's that wont fit my car anymore. They are silver centers with polished lips, that need a polish. There is no gutter damage on any of the rims and the centers are good condition just need a clean up. Only one rim has the original center cap the others are missing. Come with very good condition 245/45R17 tires or semi slicks with 75% tread for additional cost Asking $800 prefer local pick up from sydney areas

all too over looked are the porka 997 cup car callipers. Even the 996 cup callipers are great besides the mounting positions making things a little complicated For the price and availability you cant go past them, even when buying brand new.

There is a nominated distance between the hub face and the wheel nut inserts or tapered edges. By removing material your making the distance less and increasing the chance of the rim cracking around the stud holes. Ive seen it in the past. If you did do it, use a Milling maching with a parrallel flycutter, and be cautious just how much material you do take off and how tight the wheels get done up. make sure when its done the rims get clocked to the cutter properly otherwise you'll end up with nice wheel wobble. Any competant machinist will realise the importance of it being square anyways,