Risking

Less rear spring actually makes a car gradually oversteer as opposed to to much spring which makes it snap oversteer. Too much front spring will cause understeer, but usually mid corner not entry. If we are talking about a road car and your complaing of understeer, go buy some GOOD tires and watch the problem disapear. You could not possibly be pushing the car into a window where sway bars and springs are going to effect the handling if the tires are budget........

Stiffen the rear bar up it may help but when your looking for grip and using budget tires 90% of the time your pushing shit up hill. Don't touch the front bar If your happy with the rear end of the car.

How is he measuring bump steer?? The only method I use is to measure ride height center of hub to guard, level thr car on jacks. Remove the shock and spring then re fit the shock only (normally just fit an old dead shock) bottle Jack under the lower control arm raising the hub back to ride height you measured. I have a cut up old rim that gets bolted to the hub with vertical slides welded to it.( makes adjustments easier with less rim in the way) Dial indicators against the slides and zeroed. Raise the bottle Jack through a sensible travel range and watch the indicators. The jig was not hard to build or you can buy them too. Glad you like the outter mountings. there is no reason why you can't use an original hicas arm and lock bar with it either.

Hicas mountings. The idea is to have a kit anyone can install. Gtr's don't have non hicas mounts. The inner mounting pins are actually offset by a decent ammount, I don't just wack them together I have a set of dial indicator bump gauges. The pick ups are positioned so that with adjustable traction arms the bump steer is on average +1mm total toe in @ 100mm compression from ride height. You probably won't find any other gtr out there with factory gear that gets close to those figures. There isn't really a right spot from factory when you change so much like we have. There is very few people who have actually ever measured bump steer properly, the factory arangement is not the greatest, the pick ups are less than ideal, something that's slowly being corrected. That's also the reason why I haven't used an off the shelf lock bar with factory steering arms and rose jointed outters, it would have done away with the crap outter balljoints but done nothing about the other half of the problem. This is more expensive, and has taken alot longer to develop but it's right and never has to be done again.

Here is the final rear steering set-up. There has been alot of interest in them and they will be for sale very shortly The sleeves shown get welded into the tube and are right and left hand thread so adjustments are easy. Here is the whole lot ready to be fitted, its minus a few bolts and washers but you get the idea. Id fit it up but its too bloody cold outside. The entire lot is machined 4130, as too are the arms themselves. All Tig welded with E70S2 rods. The rose joints are the expensive part, anyone who has ever bought good quality ones (not average ones I mean teflon inserted quality ones) will agree they are pricey but worth the cost. The joints im using are 5/8th UNF right and left handed, Teflon insert and also 4130. Break one of these and you've done something massively wrong! Ill get photos up shortly of the whole thing installed into the R32 arse end. There is basicly no need for any kind of HICAS lock bar or any of the factory nissan steering arms or ball joints etc etc.

You lot running around doing 1's in an un caged at on slicks must have a death wish!!! Your corner speed must be massive it's only a matter of time till someone has a BIG lose and gets injured. R35's are no doubt a great car but no car is going to hold up in a hit with that kind if pace behind it.

Could I get some info about the shell and what's left

If you want some actual info on the conversion what's involved and generic geometry you can expect from doing it shoot me a pm, I'll put you in touch with someone. The conversion has been done before with mixed results. It won't give you any more lock and the ackerman angles are worse for an R32 if you use s14 upright. There are better ways to do which work. Bump steer is not the issue untill you go cutting and shutting arms the issues are more to do with getting an castor on it without new shock towers and the shock angles you'll end up with.

Valid point there.

Thanks mike. I machine all of these and everything else in house. No subleting of machine work.

Here is the new and mildly improved rear steering arrangement for Pete's cars The pins are machined 4130. They pretty much push in and bolt to the original upright removing the horrid factory ball joint on the outter. The arms will remain factory for replacement sakes and 5/8th's rod ends are used for the outters. The pin straight out of the lathe The parts needed for the ouuter Assembled quickly in the upright Plans are to sell them as a kit shortly

Those masters are a direct fit to the majority of Nissan boosters and the push rod lengths are also within mm of being perfect as well. You can change the pushrods if you want to or just loosen the jam nut and adjust it. The lines may require some tweaking but nothing that's overly hard. All use m10*1 threads with double flare fittings as well.

Piss the whole master cylinder off and buy a brand new one from martins clutch and brake for a navara or patrol. They can be had in 15/16ths or 1inch. They are also available in two or three port for abs or not. The comercials have an external prop valve to varry bias according to the weight in the rear so they have no internal valve. To rebuild yours without a prop valve they will need to replace the pistons and re drill a relief port or th rear brakes will drag. T the bias controller into the rear line and away you go. Is it currently pinching rears or not using them? My road GTR has that exact system with 997 cup car fronts and stock Nissan rears 1inch master. It works really well. It's worth while excersise even if you set it and forget, the GTR had tilton pedal box with bias bar and remote adjuster. Honestly on the odd occassion when grip was well down the bias may have got a tweak but otherwise it was set and forget as well, bias control was no better than the road car with the same brakes. I have the part number at home for the master cylinder and use a willwood bias controller. I've tried a few brands in various cars and found the willwoods adjustment to be far less sensitive. The point of locking rears might be a full turn of the willwood but 1/8th turn on a tilton You can either run -3 braided line into the cabin with dash fittings or use steel bundy tube with double flare fittings which is cheaper obviously.

I will never do this job again......... Ever, its a massive head f**k getting everything true and square. Here is a few crappy I phone photos of pete's rear end. Everythings been seam sealed and roughly painted, needs a coat of under body tar to finish it off. The rear pins had to be machined up and the chassis modified to mount them, front of the subframe has been cut and shut with new solid mounts machined up, cage will penetrate the floor to add additional strength but the whole thing is done with 4130 molly plate and bar so its bullshit strong anyways. There is also a rose jointed rear steering set-up for it which is very nice. Better photos tomorrow in the light old mate

Keep the 17's and fit a set of RE55 SR2's. Buy a set of gtr rims and use those for daily duties. Going with a lesser tire will make all the difference. Suspension wise, replace every rubber bush with some type of urethane product, get a set of adjustable castor and camber arms. Shock wise set a budget and work to it. Typicaly the more your willing to spend the better they will be. Saying that most people wouldn't be able to tell the real differnace between a tein or a sach shock if they had the same spring. So buy something decent and use quality springs eibach are my pick. hicas remove it, if your good with a lathe turn up some pins and replace the stupid rear ball joints on the uprights with rod ends and make up your own intermediate bar. Sway bars there is only one. Selbys bars. I've tried them all and end up back with selbys bar everytime. They are consistant, fit well and reasonably priced. Brakes to begin with buy a good set of rotors, DBA 4000 series are a nice starting point and a good set of pads. Use fresh fluid, motul rbf600 is okay and see how the brakes survive. Stretch to a set of braided lines if budget permits. Awd controllers I've never really used oters may have better input about them. There is a massive ammount of things I've left out but to have some fun seriously buy a good set of tires and go driving.

F50 or f40 is the Ferrari variant they were originally designed for. They are no better than any other brembo calliper. The good about them is that they will accept a decent sized rotor (355-370mm usually) they are radial mounted so easy to fabricate adaptors for. Good supply of pads in most name brands realativly cheap in comparison to gtr brembos etc.

Long gone. What exactly are you after?? I have a massive selection of dry sump parts still I keep as spares. May part with some though

I'm sure Duncan will agree. Don't go with a bolt in cage, save your money and do it once properly. I actually owe my life to a bolt in cage from some 10 years or so ago but I'd never recommend one for circuit racing. I'f you know what you want pm me and I'll give you a quote to do a proper cage.

Pardon my ignorance but we talking bout a gtst or gtr?? What kind of experiabce do you have with building race cars and have you spoken to any good suspension engineers before you go hacking the car apart?? My honest advise is to not play god untill you have the required knowledge and experiabce to do so, I wouldn't go moving engines etc and guessing. Buy corner weights or borrow some and do it properly. You'd be suprised what you'll find when you move engines etc and the effects it has. Nit nessisarily good! I personally would not waste my time with a time attack car so to speak, regardless of how good you are there is always going to be faster andrhe car is usless after the event till next year. Build a car around the state sports sedan rules and race it all year round. I'm happy to offer you advise and knowledge, it's up to you what you do with it though.

You can but its kinda rough the way way it needs to be done. The stupid upright and upper arm is best used a boat anchor, I have a molly tube subframe drawn up for the front and rear of the GTR but the expense puts it out of reach for most people. A wishbone conversion is not an easy thing to design for a skyline, The time spent Jigging it up and fabrication is not worth it to turn out 3 items. What Ive desgined for them is a complete tube subframe with front and rear wishbone suspension, Shim adjustable, molly arms and new uprights, slight ackerman angle changes, awesome bump steer control. Roll center adjustments are easy etc etc To sell them cost is the issue though.

Subframes are the heaviest waste. Molly tube subframes with proper wishbone suspension are way lighter and work a million times better. Done right they are a good thing, do it wrong and its makes the car a heap of shit

How serious are you prepared to go ???? There is more dead weight in a skyline than you can possibly remove. The entire rear end is stupid as too is the front., inner wheel arches have 3 skins, floor pans are doubled over, fire walls are double skinned. Here are a few photos which highlight the wasted weight so to speak. Very hard to cut it out and retain the original body shell though as its internal. For an ordinary car front to back id suggest, the entire front head light support and rad support, Front chassis rails from the X member forward (no im not joking) the entire wheel arch, turret and shock tower (make towers integrated into the cage and new guard mounts from small tube), The inner fire wall skin, inner sill pannels, entire rear floor pan (including the boot floor and rear seat pan) and intergrate the rear subframe mounts into the cage, rear beaver pannel and all the internal skins (which are negligable anyways). Alot of the car becomes structural when you go that far but the weight saved is imense. Also ditch the front and rear subframes for molly tube items and replace uprights/hubs etc. Like I said depends how far your willing and can afford to go....

Am I going to need a bullshit shinny engine like that one for the turbo kit or can I bolt the sucker to a filthy lump and screw boost in till it pops. Do I get a discount if I give your car back??

sorry not for resale, This one has a purpose.

The system on steves gtr was built and designed by myself from steves guidline of everything in one unit under the car. The current ones I'm using on my GTRs have individual chambers supplying the pumps and are foam filled to settle the fuel a bit more. I rather use them with dash fittings as opposed to barb tails and clamps. They work well and are realativly inexpensive.