Risking

Paul I'll take the rear calipers, rear rotors and the damaged bonnet. I can pick up any night during the week that suits you thanks brad

I had originally planned to rego it Charlie. I drove it home from Brisbane and was so much fun to drive. But then all this happened and somehow I can't see it getting rego anymore

are you looking to sell the bonnet?? I may have a swap or interested in buying ouright too.

Bought another GTR but it's had the boot spoiler removed and the holes filled in. It's done well and painted silver, paint is reasonable but not perfect, no dents or scratches. I want a boot spoiler so looking to swap. I'm located in Sydney and NOT dealing interstate. Meet up swap boots and locks, you leave with mine I leave with yours. Preferance would go to a gunmetal grey boot but I'm not fussed. Will not sell unless I have a good offer and I can buy a new boot with no outlay.

They won't wake up untill someone is seriously hurt or killed. Absolutly no offense but the competitors doing so have a death wish if they think they will never come unstuck at such speed. Going fast is one thing, protecting the one thing that matters (your life) doing so is another. One mistake by driver is fellow competitor and it's all over

You ready to cage yet or what??

An aggressive dry circuit setup will suck arse in the rain no matter how you drive it. You want to take camber out. Toe in not toe out on a wet circuit. For a a roadie I'd suggest toe in and less camber, stuff around with sway bars to try and balance it all out. Most important go have fun. Wet weather driving is the best If you go searching for speed on a wet circuit you won't find it, go looking for balance in the vehicle and the speed will come very easily. There is a massive amount of changes that can be made but most of it is outside the scope of a road going car with basic suspension mods

If there was no backlash adjustment or bearings replaced it took an hour with 2 of us doing it. If it needed a new crown wheel, pinion or bearings it could take up to 4 hours max depending on how the assembly went. Typically we were smashing crown wheel and pinion teeth off the start line so we were doing it all the time, never fixed one at the track though, just drove it RWD in most trophy races after it broke in the heats. That's a car which was constantly apart and we knew it inside out

Why does the sump need to come off for?? There is 3 bolts retaining the NS drive shaft axle, 9 bolts from memory holding the bearing retainer plate in the OS of the diff housing and the flange nut on the pinion shaft. The center falls out the front, the pinion and shaft also get knocked out the front. A small slide hammer can pop the old bearing cones out easily and a tappered nylon drift can knock the new ones back in. Bearing preload and backlash is easy to set up with shims. We used to service the quaife center in my old race car every 6 meetings and inspect the crown wheel/ pinion gears afte every race meet. Never had any problems getting the diff center in and out.

Also agree, but Neil what are you doing it's only 8:40pm and you have a car to pull apart. 4 weeks you reckon, my shop is currently overflowing, ol mate pete's car to finish, an rb26-s13 conversion and moly cage, 180sx wide body/cage, r32 GTR Molly subframes and suspension revamp/cage and my r34,r32, GTIR too.

It's always fun caging a car you care so much about! It'll either make or brake the whole thing.

One thing worth mentioning about the 996 caliper particularly the ones you have is that they flex like a bitch. The mountings are too close together, the 996 cup car caliper is better and the 997 calliper has the mountings alot further apart again anD doesn't seem to have the same issues the 996 ones do it is alot easier to fit the 996 cup calipers to cars with mac struts due to the mounting points being closer but the skyline uprights are easy to work with the 997. The adaptor needs to be as long as the calliper though.

It not hard at all. Your on the right track with the spacer behind the rotor. It will rub on the lower ball joint without one. We use the entire 997/996 rotor and hat just machined to suit with a machined hard anodized spacer. I actually bought a heap more callipers rotors and pads today to make up a few sets for cars im doing. The adaptors are complex due to the shape and size of the caliper.

Wait up your building a "track car" and not even putting a real tire under it??? I think your building a catolouge " tough" street car that might go to the track....... The guys have made the exact suggestion I did about buying springs locally from someone who knows what theyare doing as opposed to guessing yourself when you have no idea, which seems to be an ongoing trend. At the end of the day I can see three or four guys in here making good suggestions, ash, Troy, marlin and savman who I'd regard as actually having an idea. It's your money to blow and far from any of us to tell you what to do with it. Every page seems to have a question about a component with a list of catolouge choices, guys suggesting better components or brand choices then you buying the catolouge, finally not being happy with the finish anyways. I don't get it... Why ask just go buy the parts YOU want. Building a caR isn't a popularity contest, no one cares if you have the fanciest looking track car out there. If it or you don't perform it becomes a joke. My rant is over. Moral of it go buy what you want and set it up how you think is right. Or take peoples advise and speak with knowledgable bussiness' about buying the right parts and doing the work right.

speedwerx. All Aussie made and possibly one of the best die set press benders I've ever used. ( I've used alot of them too) Tony direx is the owner he runs the business from his shed and his son locally machines and fabricates all the benders parts. They are air/hyrolic or manual. Tony currently stocks die sets up to 2 3/4 but has 3 and 3 1/2 in testing stages currently. From memory the bender is around a grand and each die set is between 500 and 700 bucks. They bend everything including stainless, 4130 and alloy.

He does make a very good point......

2k will buy you a really nice quality die set bender that will do the job perfectly! As well a plenty of other shit too! I used china hks type pipes on my old car. They worke fine

I have a "real" mandrel bender with alloy mandrels and bend up cooler piping up to 3.5 inchs regularly. it would seriously cost 200 bucks in materials to bend up a nicer set of pipes to suit a GTR plus the silicon joiners and a couple of hours labour. I can't see how they justify that kinda money for a piping kit that's mass produced.

Your old r33 now has an rb25 neo and is almost up and running too

It's caged, or half caged atm. Spent a lot of time making this cage stupidly tight on the body. I bought a new bender and several mandrel sets with different radius' to make sure I could do it the way I wanted. I'll take a few photos tomorrow of it

Still have this and also the exact same cage for an s13 silvia or 180sx Will take $1200 each firm. Can supply photos of each cage fitted to a vehicle if nessisary.

We did this conversion years Ago. The setup is still floating around on one of my old GTR's doing light track work. You will need an aftermarket 1 inch master with no prop valve and an external prop valve to get bias even reasonable. Also the weight of a skyline in high load corners caused massive pad knock off no matter how we did the adaptors. Problem was consistant on 3 different GTR's too. It won't work out cheaper once you go through the hassle of sorting it out. I ditched the evo's after having pretty much every problem roy has identified plus the pad knock off issues.

PM and we might be able to work something out.

But it's a posser race car so they gotta have a flush edge with the guard.