Risking

I want that hour and a hlaf of my life back, I just spent on the phone you bum.

Im still torn which to do as well. There is a wakefield round next month which ill try and do then do the MRA in August I think.

I thought they were already sent you slack barstard!

Thats cause it is. Its a logged 3D sports sedan, its well and truely behond being registeered again. It doesn't actually run much of an exhaust. It has dual side pipes from the turbo dumps straight out the side of the car.

why do you need to reduce the track?? You will need to fit adjustable upper and lower arms, as well as modify the toe arms and traction rods to get the bump steer back. If its an R32 there are a few brands about. Juat jap do some lowers that are decent but Ikea are superior quality.

engines done buddy, everything is weighed withing a gram of its life, balanced to perfection and assembled. Sam ended up drilling out the oil returns, the crank I told you about, few other little things to help with oil control. We line bored the main journals too be sure as well. Iv'e got one piston back out sitting on the bench and eveything laid out for old mate Mike Hanley to come seal it up. Regardless of the cams being back or not im sealing it up wednesday night. Mike can come back with the cams once the engine is in for all I care. He can seal the sump and head then seal the covers latter. Once the head is on I can do the turbo's and external oil pick up crap without the cams. It will be going in next saturday and you will have it back by tuesday ready to race. Im very impressed with the oil pump, its a really nice unit. And wait till you see the sump in person. You bash it against a ripple strip and im coming after you! Im not aloud to drive for a while (doctors orders) so I have not ended up entering this round. Jay is going to take it out to the SAU oran park day. The car is back here now so you can suss it all out when you come down during the week. Its getting some suspension surgery over the next two weeks.

Here's a lap of oran park south circuit from a few weeks ago, was during saturday morning practice when I was running the engine in. I dodnt get any footage of the racing. I also miss a gear coming out of Suttons, my bad! Circuit- Oran park south Vehicle- R32 GTR 3D sports sedan Driver- me Lap time- 49:097

with the right offset rim you WILL for a 295 on the rear and a 265 on the front. We use Supra offset rims 18 by 10 front and 18 by 11 rear with above tires. We space the rims accordingly to get them on. Also have run a 320 rear slick with a 300 front slick but required some neg camber and slight inner guard modifications

two weeks to go Duncan, You got that car up and ready to go yet??

wont hurt to bleed the system but usually if there is minor air in the system it will still work to a degree. Does the light turn on and off when the engine fires?? Is the control unit in the boot flashing any fault codes?? The only other thing id check before ripping the transfer case out when you have NO front drive is the front diff. Mine likes to chew up crown wheel and pinion gears.

The awd dyno is your best way of detecting an attessa problem. Obviously once you have bleed the system and done all the basic checks

I tend to agree with Richard regarding the costings. I haven't really added up the cost of mine but if I had paid for the cage and dry sump it would be up around the 140K mark. Probably more as everything was purchased new this time around. And the engine was rebuilt before being fitted as well. I know Duncan's car besides being very tame is also very expensive. (his on a good wicket with engine rebuilds now so hopefully he won't need to be spending too much now) Jay's GTR (my old one) owes him more now than what I would have sold him the entire car for. I know the old grey car owed me over 90 grand once it was dry sumped. It has the best Ohlins I could afford, the best of everything suspension wise besides stock geometry it was really well developed. The costs pile up when you start buying good suspension and brakes etc. Once you buy good parts they also cost alot to maintain. My pagid pads from memory are $1100 front and $860 rear I get four meetings from a set of pads. Needless to say I buy second hand cup car pads for 130 bucks and replace them when there well and truely buggered. I gave up on overhauling the sequantial box, engine every 6 months of racing if I want it to stay competative. The spending never ends. Another thing to consider is the initial cost to get the car up to scratch. you fork out track hire and fuel, wear and tear etc for approx 4-6 private practice days before the car is even ready to get serious. Jay would know but I think we did 4 or 5 private days in the new car before we raced it. Its still not 100% right and I think another 2 testing days will get it sorted. Its at the pointy end of one category and a mid fielder in the other series atm. There's probably been a few grand spent just in private testing days. I dont see the point of attending a super sprint or state round etc if you know the car is not up to scratch. I had to run and have X rays today Steve. I have a figure in my head that id accept but I really don't know if I want to part with it yet. Its currently in storage. We decided tonight that Jay is going to take it out to the SAU Gp day. I trust him with it, dunno if he trusts himself with it but will soon find out how hard his willing to push.

Selling off the first sump I fabricated for my dry sump system. It has been shallowed and partitioned off internally and only holds about 1/2 liter or so of oil now. Has 3 -12 fittings and a good set of windage trays come with it. Its not going to have a diff center but may be able to supply one. Only reason for selling is that I am cutting up another sump to move the pump and didnt want to waste this one. Asking $350 firm. Is still in the car but will be removed shortly.

have a few decent condition Yoko Ao48's with about 50-60% remaining. They were from last years combined touring cars so not all that old $50 per tire. Sorry there 235/45 R17's

S13's can be quick and reliable no doubt about that. Personally id build an R32 GTS-t with an RB25 or preferably a 26. The GTS-t has so much less that can go wrong and if you single turbo the 26 it makes life a bit simpler. There would still be inheritated RB26 issues but they can be fixed. Actually I think Duncan and I were talking about this earlier tonight, buying an R32 GTS-t which has been in a massive front ender, cutting it off at the fire wall and building a semi space frame GTS-t with a full house RB30. Would be a load of fun to drive if you get the front end geometry right. Anyone have a really badly damaged R32?? You wanna buy??

Check the bearings whilst its apart. Low pressure can and will be worn bearings as much as it is the pump. Id recommend buying the best quality pump you can afford. N1's are common but the nitto pumps are far better.

Okay if your even remotely worried about the cost of a GTR to buy DONT BUY ONE. There is many many many options that are better than a GTR for a circuit car. Im a firm believe now that if you want a circuit GTR then you either build it all out and spend the cash or you dont bother beginging! You can build a budget GTR and run it at sprints but one day it will break and then it snow balls. It all depends how serious you really are and what you want to acheive. Set your self a goal and buy a car to suit. If you have a well sized wallet My GTR could be for sale if you have the right ammount of cash. Its probably one of the more hardcore circuit GTRs doing the rounds in NSW. Actually Jay you should buy my friggin car and save the hassle of rebuilding the old one! Ill swap you both your GTRS and cash

I was considering a bomb for the GTR but was put off by the replacement of it once its our of date, I assume yours is already out of date Neil?? I could not see why it cant be serviced like a regular extiguisher and put back into use.

Im currently considering a rwd conversion on the GTR. I found at oran park when the front diff Broke the only thing that suffered was the initial launch from the grid and some power oversteer which I think is caused by the rear springs. The front drive used to pull the rear out of the corner where now it doesnt so softer rears are needed to start with. When I considered the weight of the transfer, front sump/diff, attessa pump, control unit/loom etc it may be viable to remove it all. If I was to remove it I could also fabricate a proper dry sump pan, lower the engine another 3 inches into the engine bay and move it further back. As well as be released from a few of the AWD 3D rules. Probably easier to go buy a space frame car to begine with though.

I may take you up on that offer next time your around John. Its going to sit for a while

Pump the pedal up with the engine off. Push as hard as you can on the pedal and fire the engine. Does the pedal sink at all when the engine starts?? If it does then the booster is working. If not then its not working. What calipers?? It really sounds to me like you have a master thats too big OR a blockage in one of the lines resulting in low fluid pressure at the caliper and a hard pedal.

I rebuild them myself so I have no idea who else can do them or what they charge. We buy in the parts be it genuine or after market depending what they are. There is really not much inside them, the most expensive parts are the clutch plates themselves. Ive never actually bought genuine ones though. Id recommend replacing the multi chain if you have a decent ammount of grunt heading down it. I haven't had one break but have seen them stretch. A grand to rebuild one would sound pretty reasonable to me. If it includes the chain its even better. Second hand has worked for me in the past but they are really a kinder suprise and may not last very long anyways.

Chris I wont be out on sunday either, or for a while in that matter, I have a few serious health concerns I have to deal with in the immediate future so the GTR is taking a back seat for a while. Jay might take it to punch out a few laps but I won't be. Hope you all have a good day out there Wednesday, really was looking forward to getting some quality laps in.

What brake lines are you using?? What calipers?? Does it wear front pads or rear pads out faster?? Is the pedal firm and hard but has no stopping power or soft and traveling along way??

Its the transfer case. Testing without load means nothing. Get it put onto a 4wd dyno with torque split monitoring and id almost bet my race car's transfer case that yours is shot. They become slow and end up with rear wheel spin. Eventually when its really rooted it wont drive off the jack. But at the moment its only slipping under load. We re-build our cases with specially designed clutch plates every 48hours or so of use as this exact problem starts to occur on the circuit. Mines doing it atm and needs to be rebuilt. On the road with genuine parts your transfer should last a very long time. Its not as an expensive excersise as some people think and in my opinion ANY R32 GTR which has not had it done should have it done.