StageZilla

hey alex its not as simple as first thought the easy bit... gtr diff housing and stagea housing r identical size, except stagea one has mounting points for attessa pumps and gtr one doesnt so i put the gtr diff internals in the stagea diff housing and therefore the same abs sensors were in also as the gtr ones r different, the rear diff plate on the gtr diff is alot bigger and shiny ally fins where as the stagea one is flat and black, gtr one bolts on ok but the fins hit on the rear cradle not allowing to pull hard up when bolting up, so we bent the end piece of the crossmember lip like 2-3mm and its clear by a few mm, which is fine and totally unnoticable hubs and brakes fit str8 on with the change of two of the bushes, easy as stagea tailshaft bolts str8 on as normal axles r two different lengths (drivers side is longer than passenger side), which is something i didn't realise for a while, and i tried the gtr long axle on the short side and it was too short, and then i got a gts4 axle and tried the long side on the short side of my car and it fit perfect, so i got another gts4 one and thought it would fit (thinking they were the same length ) and it was wayyyyy short, like 70mm i think, so we cut up one of the gtr ends and welded on an extension piece on the the main bit that bolts onto the diff flange, and its lasted for abit of absolute thrashing and hard launches etc with 360rwhp but i dont know how its gonna take 600hp+ :lol: time will tell

hey guys ive decided to start a thread on my build up of the engine, and stuff on the stagea and saves people asking q's and ill post up heaps of pics as i go along heres the info so far on what ive got: Engine: RB26DETT INTERNALS: JUN 2.7L stroker kit JUN forged crank JUN forged connecting rods JUN cosworth forged pistons JUN oil pump JUN head stud kit JUN big end stud kit JUN 272 degree/11.35mm lift cams JUN adjustable cam gears JUN titanium retainers JUN heavy duty valve springs Nismo bearings HKS metal gasket kit valve guides Gates timing belt n1 waterpump INTAKE: HKS T04Z (0.81) turbo K&N Pod Filter (huge!!) Trust stainless steel exhuast manifold custom 3" aluminium intercooler piping HKS 50mm external wastegate (vented to atmo ) EXHAUST: 4" dump pipe into 4" exhaust, to 3.5" after cat 4" magic cat converter 3.5" stainless steel mufflers x 2 FUEL SYSTEM: sard 1000cc injectors sard dual entry fuel rail sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator bosch 044 fuel pumps x 2 goss intank pumps x 2 Alloy surge tank twin fuel lines from pumps to engine DRIVELINE: custom twin plate clutch gtr 5 speed gearbox GTR rear diff and axles 4.3 diff ratios SUSPENSION: bilstein shocks whiteline springs whiteline/arc swaybars BRAKES: R34 gtr v spec front 4 spot brembo calipers DBA 328mm alloy hat slotted rotors R32 GTR rear 2 spot calipers DBA 300mm slotted rotors brembo front brake pads bendix ultimate rear pads stainless steel braided brake lines OTHER ENGINE BITS: Autronics SMC ecu Autronics CDI ignition amplifier MSD coilpacks nismo engine mounts nismo gearbox mount oil cooler custom 9L baffled sump need to get a 100mm thick cooler blitz or apexi or something similiar, and thats pretty much all i need to get now engine is at the machine shop at the moment and hoping to get block back within 3 weeks or so and the head is machined for the cams and porting is being done as we speak, the HKS t04Z turbo is ordered from japan and waiting on exact price from HKS heres a few pics of the car at the moment and a test fit of the brembo r34 calipers and dba alloy rotors which luckily just fit behind my rims and i been hiding all the headlight wiring harnesses and all the wires that run along between headlights and battery and headlights and air box on the other side, i took a few pics with the wiring gone and if u checkout your own stagea's they are full of wires usually and heres the dba 328 mm rotor compared to the stock stagea front rotor and ill show i few pics of before it had the motor taken out ill update as i go in here rather than posting heaps of different threads ] cheers Brad

hey sk i cant wait for my kit to arrive and drop it as low as it can go and see how it looks i wont drive it on the lowest setting, only for shows, etc, but it will be sweet as

Iluka for me, which is near ocean reef for the uneducated

nope, ive owned it since nov 2004 and it got the rb26 in dec 2004 and i onyl drivin it about 1000km in that time, and 500km of that is with the 25 hehe, but it should be worth it in the end

well ive got a ecotec 3.8L v6 vs commodore and im comparision to the rb25det auto stagea it was the stagea by a fair margin, but the earlier v6 commos were shit compared to ecotec (125kw - 150kw) though its hard to judge as the power delivery is totally different and turbos always feel faster i reckon cause they kick in harder and non-turbos are just linear. but yes i'd back to stagea for sure, and i was keeping up with v8 vs commos (mainly due to perfect launching with auto) and that was only with cat back zorst and totally stock.

hey alex, im not sure to be honest with only doing about 500km in it since ive owned it and mostly day driving, but i do think they where pretty dull compared to my vs commodore, and as i said i aint got any dimmer at all i dont think also the wire that does to the cat convertor is located under the passenger seat and comes through the floor with like metal braided line to the plug. i ripped mine out and i think to stop light coming on u gotta put power to it or something, its been awhile i spend about 99.9% of the time changing things and 0.1% drivin it

if its got a factory cat on it will have the exhuast temp sensor probe in there, but if it aint the stock one it will set off the light without a sensor on so the previous owner removed the globe instead, it if its stock zorst it prolly means it was an aftermarket one maybe dunno bout dash lights, mine aint got no dimmer and it got complied

did this in the back shed trust me if u aint got patience its a nightmare

now thats a beast hahaha gotta love bunkys and being able to go to the shops and dont bother winding up windows or locking it or bugger all haha the joys, go over speed humps at 100kmh, over large curbs, drifting into curbs and laughing when ya hit it haha, bent plenty of axles in my old bunkys cost like $50 for a complete engine, and f**kin other parts people give away, and u can park it in some dodgy train station carpark or whatever and dont give a shit about whether its there when u get back those where the days

hey alex, not thats for the tranfer case ONLY which is the rear half of the gearbox, and the gearbox auto fluid is totally seperate. just a note that the fluid bottle in the boot is totally seperate fluid to the actual transfer case, and it only is used to push the actuator on the back of the gearbox (same as a clutch slave cylinder pretty much) which presses a large arm onto the tranfer case clutches to activate the front wheels. if i remember rightly so, auto dipstick is on drivers side behind the plenum next to firewall (i think thats right as i got rid of the auto before i had to check the fluid ) also have the engine running while u check the auto trans fluid level good luck Brad

rb30 bottom end is possible, need a sump adaptor because the rb30 block doesnt have the 4wd bolt pattern. the stock axles on the diff r tiny and so are the uni joints so 3L torque would munch them in no time, my 26 snapped one clean in half just coming onto boost while rolling along in 1st gear. the stageas can be put in 2wd, plenty of different methods, remove front tailshaft or undo the line off the rear of gearbox and screw it into a spare actuator (same as thing thats on rear of gearbox) to stop it pressing the clutch packs together hope it helps Brad

hey i just warn u the stagea is a heavy sucker weighed mine with no driver and half tank of fuel and sub box and 2 amps in it, and it got 1800kg exactly. even with 350rwhp it was abit of a slug off the line, the rb25 auto on the other hand was a beast to launch off lights fast just lacked up top, and the 26's top end makes up for it, and the manual goodness

260rs is cheaper, though the km's are probably gonna be around 100 000km (even if dash says 40 000km or some rubbish) and the rb26's r prone to cracking piston ring lands and blowing excess oil out past the rings, so make sure its genuine low km's. i would have gone 260rs but i already had the rb26 engine and i thought it would be cheaper (and easy ) good luck Brad

as topic says i want to connect up a factory gtr dash torque split gauge to monitor the attessa and whether its working right... so how and where does it plug into? something off the attessa ecu i presume, any info would be appreciated thanks Brad

hey guys i got the latest hpi mag and it has info on bleeding the gtr attessa system correctly, and not only do u need to crack the nipple on the actuator on the back of the gearbox, but u also have to access and unplug a plug under the dash near the ecu on gtr's, and this enables the attessa pump to run flat out while the ignition is on, and therfore u can bleed every last air bubble out, making the attessa way more responsive it reckons... (it says dont run pump for minutes on end or it will damage it) they said 20 sec of opening and closing the bleeder nipple while its running is fine and all air is out.... problem... where the hell is the plug situated in the stagea? cheers Brad

motec is the no 1 option autronics and cdi is next in my opinion and also ND4SPD in perth with a hks 2.8L stroker and twin hks t04z turbos making just under 800hp at the wheels in his gtr uses the power fc d jetro im 99.9% sure (thats what all the articles say anyway) www.xspeed.com is where the car is from if u wanna chat to them about it cheers Brad

thats EXACTLY the truth duncan and i have recently had to rebuild my "low km" rb26 which is f**ked a piston ring, so i would buy a cheap as shit motor and rebuild it to stock even, atleast u know its fresh 100 000km is alot for a rb26, my workshop said anything around and over that many km's and they dont last with more boost etc good luck Brad

cheers for comment on workmanship :0 just cause its done at home doesnt mean its not done right, we got all the gear that a mechanic shop has and only thing we aint got is a hoist well i still havent got a vacuum canister made up for vacuum when its on boost, so i aint mounted that yet, but it doesnt need this and i didnt notice any issue driving it, though clutch is heavy and im not sure what difference it will make when hooked up, ill keep ya's posted when its back on the road the metal line is same as a gtr and its got a black metal bracket that it clips into under the car on the chassis rail (just visible in the pic) and that came with the kit i got a couple of not so good pics of the mounting of the pedal box, they are abit blurry and distorted but still usable 1st and 2nd pic is looking up towards the sky from the pedal area under the dash unfotunately the carpet underlay is in the way to see the recessing of the booster properly. 3rd is looking at the top of the pedal box (towards the pedals) and the mountings i used are from the old footbrake assembly, and as u can see we welded a tab off the left side of the pedal box and drilled a hole in it to use the stock mountings (dash was off for this pic) 4th pic is showing how close the clutch booster sits to the brake booster, its not possible to get the clutch booster out without removing the brake booster (or at least losening the bolts off to pull it out to get the clutch booster from behind it) thats about all the pics i got worth showing at the moment, ill take some better detailed ones of all the bits when i get a spare 5 min daylight hope it helps Brad

ok i thought id start a new topic so everyone doesnt miss the post and ask it in the future, as the manual conversion one is dragging on with alot of useless posts so i got the motor out and i got in the bay and took some shots of it properly, and notice how far in the booster is. its 40mm and that still allows access to get the filler cap off and on easy, and on inspection of a 260rs it has the same amount of the booster reccessed and sits in exactly the same spot. any q's just ask cheers Brad

ok, well with the booster not reccessed in is it going to clear the plenum etc? i dont remember exactly how close the rb25 is compared to my 26. if u r bolting the pedal box hard inside the car against the firewall as u mentioned i'd use the gts-t one, and if u reccess it, then the gtr one. autech have reccessed the booster in also so dont think pedal would suit, and i am not too sure but i think autech stuff is available through nissan thanks Brad

im not 100% sure only 99.9999% ok but id say the gtr pedal box and pedal would be perfect and if u want i can measure the length of my clutch pedal in my stagea and compare it to the measurement of a GTR one (i dont have a gtr one to compare but im sure someone will) my pedal setup is perfectly lined up cheers Brad

oh also my pedal was an autech pedal as it came in autech packaging, not nissan cheers Brad

hey alex if ya going to recess the booster into the firewall id be using the gtr pedal AND pedal box as it is made to allow for the vacuum booster and the gts-ts dont even have boosters, so there pedal box bolts hard onto the inside of the firewall rather than 40mm off it for the booster (gtr) and therefore gtr pedal would be a touch shorter i'd imagine hope it helps cheers Brad

r32 gtr cooler (polished and good cond) $450 ono highflowed and rebuilt steel wheel turbos suit RB26 under 1000km use $1500 ono RB26 oil pump r32 $100 custom bov $100 gtr coilpacks x6 $50 each gtr ignitor pack $120 gtr fuel rail $100 gtr fuel reg $50 gtr cams and gears $250 gtr rear hicas power steering rack $100 2.5' k&N pod filter $40 stagea rb25 auto starter motor $50 stagea auto rb25 engine ecu $150 gtr front diff/sump complete $400 cheers Brad