RBsileighty

Thanks! Yeah, I did about 98% of the work on the car... it was a lot of work but it was worth it! Well, the 20 is not that common. I know I'm the only one in my home town with an RB (including the 25) and it's a decent size city... We are growing in the support for these motors, but the states S13 market is still heavily saturated with SR's... and some CA's.

Well... I thought this fit here more than in a new thread. Here's a vid of my car I took over the last holiday we had here in the states. It's not to exciting but gives an idea of what only one muffler (RS*R GTII) and no cat or presilencer sounds like on a RB20. Needless to say a presilencer is on the new year's to do list: RBSileighty vid

Kind of along the question I had... and goes with the GTR injector topic above. Would 440cc's be to big for the stock computer to handle with some sort of fuel controller (already have an S-AFC)? I think I'm sold on the PFC idea finally vs going with microtech like I was thinking before... but with the turbo I have now GTR injectors would be a nice safety factor to have once I get the turbo rebuilt and pushing more than .4bar.

Do you think you could run that setup @ the 1.25 bar on 93-94 octane here in the states? Useable is key... always good to hear differing opinions. Since RB25 turbo's aren't common here I'm considering some of the Garrett GT offerings... like the cousin of the HKS GT2835 which I've been told is the GT3071R offered at www.atpturbo.com (http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/po...Cat=&Board=UBB9 has some good results of SR's running this turbo along with the 2871R). Buying a house is first... but it's always good to see other peoples inputs. Looks like 225'ish might end up being the goal I'm shooting for... but those guys are getting decent graphs with those 3071's in SR's... I'm never tired of seeing RB20 info Roy!

Post your mods GTStR32... Go ahead and post your mods dyno #'s up Roy! Sk... could you give us some mods and stats on one of your old RB20's (you've sent some to me but it'd be nice to have this kind of data in one post... the reason I started this one)?

Sounds good! Nice to see some other S13's with RB's SXC and CS... especially putting out some very respectable power! What's the powerband like with that T04E? I'd be interested to see what cams would do for you...

Any idea what HP level you are at? What kind of mods produced that time (especially note slicks or not)... Nice run!

I'm just wondering who's out there with a 20 putting out this kind of power. I've seen them every now and again, but it would be nice to have a collection in the same thread. If you do... post up and let us know your spec list! If you are in the mid 200+rwkw range... go ahead and post up as well. If you have a dyno graph... please post it since it would be nice to see how these mods affect the power band.

148rwkw... are you running a converter? A buddy of mine had his on the rollers and put down 230rwhp (~171rwkw) with the same mods... but no converter. I'm ready to get mine on the rollers and see how this T3/T4 will do once it's rebuilt.

He's running a .63 a/r... but going by these... that looks like the right size

What is the recommended power/mod limit for a reburned computer? I was thinking LTX-12, but if I don't need that much... then I don't need that much.

He was only running 17psi if I recall with a small A/R at that... sounds like his tuner wasn't all that either.

My old motor was running the stock dump like yours but cut part way down and welded to 3" pipe with no cat and with no spike... the only difference I can see is that mine (now in a buddy's car... has FMIC now but didn't spike with the SMIC either) has no cat at all and was boosting 12-13psi max boost with no boost controller. Anyway... here is an post from a while back with a RB20 and a 3040 setup: MRPrez's RB20 w/ 3040 turbo

I wouldn't say it's so much a internal wastegate problem as it is an undersized spring in the actuator while running increased boost. Both of the stock 20 turbos I've been in contact with have been fine... but they are running .9 bar with no boost controller (no cat, 3" exh, and pod filter)... yet no spikes. If HKS sells their 2835 with an internal option... I'd imagine it's able to flow the amount of waste gas needed not to spike... They shouldn't be like FC S4 TII RX7's who have to port their internal gate in order to up the boost safely.

Ahhh... are you talking about "The Dragon's Tail" Carl? I'm from the other side of NC (Wilmington) and haven't had a chance to head out there to the tail yet... but I've only heard good things, and I can't wait to get out there! The other thing I like about the 3071/2835R is the internal gate option... and if you run a higher A/R on the hot side you can get your lag... I'm going to try the .8X A/R for either 2835 or 3071 since cams and maybe a set of 2.2 pistons are on the to buy list. Just some more food for thought.

As for buying the turbo Roy... I just finished the car not to long ago and will be buying a house here in the next year... so my current T3/T4 is going to have to make due for a bit. I need brakes/wheels/tires before I sink money into a turbo and management (fuel is well taken care of, minus injectors). My list of mods is in my signature link along with pics of the car). I just wanted to pass on some of my calcs and research to other people since this is something I've looked into... hope this helps Carl. Never figured a company would fake compressor data... but I guess your right DB... have to keep an eye out for such things. I think it's funny b/c it seems I've come full circle on my turbo choice. I started looking at the 2835R then looked everywhere else for every other option... and it looks like that what I ended on, the 3071R is the same thing. Maybe I can pick up a second hand 2835R at some point and do a rebuild.

I'm shooting for around 260-300rwkw so it looks like this is still a good option for me (and a lot less money than the 2835R). I was recommending it to Carl b/c it seems to support all that the RB20 is capable to streetably offer vs. the GT30R/3037. Thanks again for the input... where did you get your info about ATP? Just wondering... my buddy with an Audi B5 series S4 had said to be questionable about ATP as well.

Good info... nice to have people out there watching out for others. When I spoke to HKS a while back they said the 2835R would be a good match for the RB20... So are you saying their dyno graph with the "3071R" is bogus for their EVO8? That's a shame b/c it looked like a perfect turbo for a 2L... which is probably what they were trying to do.

GT30R map GT3071R Map I posted the numbers so he could look at the map and see for himself... going by the GT30R map... max spool is going to be a bit after 3800 since both 12 and 15psi are on the left of the surge line at 3800. I'm going with the GT3071R for my RB20... nice map if I say so myself.

What do you plan on running for management? What kind of budget are you on? Here are some flow rate numbers for you... you can use them on comp maps and check it out. Lbs/min 12psi @3800 ~13.274 Lbs/min 15psi @3800 ~14.765 Lbs/min 17psi @3800 ~15.759 Lbs/min 17psi @7800 ~32.349 Lbs/min 20psi @7800 ~35.410 Lbs/min 22psi @7800 ~37.451 Lbs/min 17psi @8250 ~34.215 Lbs/min 20psi @8250 ~37.453 Lbs/min 22psi @8250 ~39.612 Hope this helps...

Hey Carl, What are your goals? Max power... max boost (race fuel or pump gas more or less)... most tolerated lag?

That "mud" is exactly what I found in my radiator... builds up in the top of the rad and looks like clay almost? I just had my radiator pro cleaned by a buddy of mine who works for a dealership in town. He said he did 2 cleanings... one then drove it around and then drained and did another flush/cleaning. They have a special solvent for it... he said everything coming out now is clean. Glad to see that MKIV link helped you out a bit. I think this "mud" thing is just part of the game when you swap a motor that's been sitting a while.

I have a RB20 in my S13 hatch... great motor and the car has excellent handling with my Kei Office Type XT footwork... don't mind what people say about the RB making the car front heavy. Check my signature to see the details on my car. Granted... if I had a SR in my car originally... vs my original KA24DE truck motor... I'd just sell my S13 buy a used GTR.

I'm not running a 26... but with a 20 and a FMIC that you can see in my sig... my 2 permacools do just fine. Since I fixed my leak on the back of the turbo I've had no overheating problems or temp change off "normal" in 40C deg weather with 80+ % humidity. Did you bleed the air after you found the leak? I agree with Joel in that you should definitely make sure all of the air is bled from the system... that would be the cheapest fix if that's the problem. As for the thermo... I'm running the Z32 TT thermo in my 20... but I can't tell you if you can use that in a 26... maybe someone knows if you can X-ref between a 26 and a 20 thermostat. Here's some good info on cooling systems... http://www.mkiv.com/faq/faqtt.html#enginecooling Good luck bud... sounds like your making progress... even if it is slow... it's still progress

What's the temp/humidity been like around your area? AZ isn't exactly a cold state... sure it's not helping what could be a small problem. As far as what's in your overflow... has it done that since the coolant flush? I would imagine whatever solvent was run through pulled out what could be in the lines. If it's not doing that anymore then start looking at the small things first. If you run the fan (HVAC) pulling air from the outside... when overheating do you smell the coolant burning? I had a leak from a water feed line to the turbo with a bad crush washer... no more overheating after that was fixed. A line leak is a lot easier/cheaper to fix than a headgasket. Might as well run a coolant system pressure test to see if you have any leaks. I don't know how old your motor is, but did you replace all of your hoses? Mine's a 93, so I went through and replaced all of the rubber coolant lines since over half were dry-rotted. Granted... I'm sure if this was your problem you would have noticed a puddle under the car. Wouldn't hurt to do a coolant system pressure test anyway... Some background... what did you replace and what has been left alone? Also... what gauge are you using to monitor your temp? I think I've seen that you are using an autometer unit correct? What thermocouple are you using? If the motor itself seems fine... it might just be your gauge/sending unit... Good luck, and I hope this helps!