RBsileighty

My Hybrid FMIC kit is for a R33 GTS... great kit (you can see it in my sig)! The kit comes with all the piping (minus the hot pipe) and a oil catch can... not to shabby.

Just make sure more holes will not sacrifice the integrity of the mount... otherwise I agree.

I don't know if you've thought of this... but I considered this in the case that I aquired a R32 x-member. It should be pretty easy if you have a welder or access to one.

The KA... and most likely a SR or CA x-member will get that height lowered for you, but will require extensions like mine. My buddy used the R32 x-member for his 20 and his fits and the shifter is centered... more or less (the shifter is 12-13mm forward of mine)... but he had to cut a lot of bracing out of the bonnet. My oil pin sits flush with the bottom of the x-member. Another issue you might run into is the swaybar might not fit up front. Mine just fits and doesn't hit the oil pan. My friend's with the R32 member had to extend his in order to clear his oil pan. I am not sure how it works with the 25's box (I assume that's the trans you are using) and oil pan... I think the 25 trans is longer than the 20's which might explain the shifter being centered... but I'd be surprised if your driveshaft bolts up without having it shortened or getting a custom unit. I'd be very interested to see some pictures of the fitment if you have some available! A 26 in a S13 should be sick!

This is lower than the R32 member places the motor.... but for a RB30 you would probably have to shorten the verticle mounts as well to get that 30-40mm you are looking for. My shifter is centered. If I didn't move the mounting location (not so much the motor) forward then the back 2 cyl would be in the firewall. Thank you very much! I've actually considered having it anodized black/charcoal along with the muffler... we will see.

Thanks for the compliments fellas! I take it you read my other post. The temp stays the same... I guess I wasn't clear in that it really depends on the day (temp outside). On a nice not-so-humid day it's ~170F (what my brand new thermostat is set for)... if I cut the fans on before it gets to that temp it doesn't always get hot enough for the thermo to open... so I have to cut them off for a bit. On a really hot humid day, say 85deg F with 80%humidity it usually rests at the KA's normal level which is ~210F... but no higher. If I get on it for a short bit the T3/T4 is water cooled and brings the temp up (I assume)... but if it's a nice day and not to humid it will come back down to ~170F. The car only runs cold if the fans are on... they are on a switch. Granted... that is a good point since the thermocouple is out of an old KA motor... might be a good idea to pick up a new one like you said. Thanks for the input. No dash removal is required. My GF made it with a piece of aluminum sheet metal and cut it to the bezel size of the original air vent. Be sure to tape off the air duct with some duct tape so you don't blow hot/cold air on the gauges... can't be to good for them. As for the mounts... I just used 1/4 inch steel and moved the mounting location forward. The steel is channeled as you can see in one of the pics and the whole channel is bolted and welded to the crossmember itself. The only part modified was the lower section... which basically just extends the crossmember's mounting location forward. The part that mounts to the motor and the rubber isolators are stock R32 units. The hood only had to be trimmed where the R33 Hybrid FMIC piping kit was hitting... nothing on the motor hits the hood at all.

Thank you very much! Yeah... I agree with you more and more. She'll never be a 100% sleeper, but she's not far from it and will stay close to it since low key is my style. I'm 99% sure all that will happen cosmetically will be loosing the spoiler, fixing the dints, a paint job (the VW Platinum Grey (charcoal color) or BMW Anthracite (which is their charcoal), and 96-98 taillights. Yet... these won't happen until I get a turbo rebuild, 5 lug hubs, brakes (not sure on which ones), larger brake master cyl, RPS clutch, Rega Evo's or Buddy Club P1 QF's, 4 or 6 point cage and Takata harnesses. I almost forgot, I'm going to add a presilencer due to the single muffler RS*R kit is really loud. I'll flange the straight pipe so that I can put it back in when I take it to a road course and keep the silencer flanged so I don't loose my hearing in my left ear.

Specs: 92 S13 hatch (use to have Hicas... basically got it for the LSD) RB20DET Custom mounts... my grandfather and I designed and I built (not the best looking, but requires no hood cutting and very solid... less than 0.0001 inch deflection based on calculations) Custom dp (joint venture on the creation/welding... my buddy Cole and I did some of the cutting/welding, but I give most credit to my buddy Steve at Stono Body Works Charleston, SC) MKIV (last gen supra) fuel pump SARD Racing FPR Dual 12” Permacool fans Tein tie rods and ends w/ spacers SPL SS braided clutch line Tomei Hicas lock GReddy 52mm boost, fuel pres, and oil pres gauges (black face, bezel and white needle and numbers) I installed the senders, but my girlfriend made the bezel and installed the gauges... she's a keeper... for many reasons Hybrid FMIC Hybrid Oil Catch Can Optima red top GReddy Profec B boost controller (own but not installed) GReddy fuel cut defender (own but not installed) GReddy Type R Bypass... will run as bypass not bov (own but not installed) Apex S-AFC fuel controller (own but not installed) Turbonetics T3/T4 Kei Office Type XT coilovers APEX pod filter Set of S15 Spec R seats RS*R GTII 80mm exhaust

Well she's been done for about 3 weeks... I'm not so sure about the Sileighty any more... I'm really digging the stock/sleeper look. Finally got some pics (two old suspension pics included)... so here they are... unfortunately the turbo is on it's way out due to the abuse required to clock it (aka a hammer). So a rebuild for it is in order, but with only .4 bar she's pulling pretty hard (ran with my buddy's decat'ed VR4 on the highway). The RS*R is really nice and deep sounding... but it's to loud for continuous use. I'll add a flanged premuffler soon so I can switch out between the two (silencer really kills power). Those permacool fans are awesome!!! My car barely gets to half on the stock temp gauge (KA thermocouple) with them on in very humid 80 deg heat. Today it was sitting between the first and second tick marks. Ok... here are the pics:

I don't know how you fit pull fans in there... my 20 in my S13 barely fit, so I have push fans. I'm running a S14 OEM KA radiator (with some a fair number of bent fins... should replace it soon), a Hybrid FMIC, and 2 High Performance low profile Perma Cool fans... they keep my temp in the 0-2 mark on the stock gauge (with KA thermocouple) when driving normally. When boosting it gets up to the half way (I think that's about 200-210F... same place where my KA operated)... but after a while it will cool back down to the 0-2 mark level again. What is the humidity like in your area? I have noticed when the humidity gets really high where I am mine won't get below half way... but it doesn't get hotter. Run some DI water with no coolant for a couple of days to pull some of the grime out of your system (unless you've done this) and then take it to have a coolant system flush. There was some really nasty stuff that came out of mine when I did this to mine. Also be sure the system is properly bled. I also have a steel braided coolant line on the back of my turbo... tied it up and out of the way so it would stay away from the DP area b/c I'm sure that doesn't help coolant temps or the line's integrity. Try those perma cool push fans vs the pull... mine are excellent and I've heard the same from others that have the same fans. I'm sure if you have a KA Fluidine, even if the GTR radiator is a bit larger than a stock KA radiator... you should be fine. Hopefully this helps a little.

I was wondering what everyone thought of detonation problems I may run into with the following setup (I already own this stuff... not a wish list): RB20 w/ small T3/T4 (comp - .60 turbine - .48) and SAAB 900 sidemount Support/toys - MKIV fuel pump, old school 5 knob S-AFC, SARD Racing FPR and Greddy Profec B (knob style) I am currently making a 3" turbo back exhaust w/ no converter as well... so this should be considered part of the mod group My concern is running all of this aftermarket stuff with a sidemount is that intake temps might increase to fast on high boost and lead to detonation after running for a while. I will get a FMIC asap, but there are some more updates to the car I'd like to take care of first (tires, bushings etc). Let me know what would be a safe boost level and other settings to run (normal and scramble settings can be set) with this setup before it is run in on a dyno if you have any ideas. The turbo is only in there to hold me over until I can get a GT25R, standalone and make a proper manifold (the original is on my buddy's car since he needed it more than me)... if you were wondering

Do you think a presilencer would be enough to run by itself and not run a tail section muff?

What about around town driving? Is it that loud in the 700-3500 range as well?