RBsileighty

We don't have inspection here in my state, which means they don't look or care if it's there or not.

Does anyone know how loud a straight pipe 80mm setup (no cat or muffler) would be on a RB20DET? I do have a VG30 turbo since that might make things slightly louder (possibly negligible though). We don't have inspection where I live so it's not a big deal to run it like this... unless the dB level is over say 95dB. I just bought the Kei Office XT-alpha suspension for my S13 and was planning on running something temp. until I can buy the JIC 505S Ti setup... unless I actually really like the straight pipe setup and it's not stupid loud.

I read that post as well... not exactly sure what it's saying to do. We have pulled the plug and the idle drops to normal. What does this mean? The AAC has been cleaned twice now and it's still idling high. Would a lack of a charcoal cansister do this same fast idle?

We also tried an ECU reset, air regulator replaced, and we are thinking about changing out the CAS... maybe timing is an issue...

Well good luck bud! Hopefully all turns out well. It was said my motor had 65k on the clock when it was pulled. I will be checking mine as well when it goes in the car... luckily that countdown has turned into days now... sometime next month! I have to buy a turbo now due to my buddy needing my stock one more than me (his daily driver 20 turbo went on him 2 weeks ago). Hey, what are friend for right? It will be nice to have a quick car at the drags... but I really can't wait to put her on a circuit or auto-x!

So you did you decided to run those GTR cams Roy? I'm thinking seriously on the GTR's after we spoke over pm a few days ago... They should wake up my GT25R a fair amount (that turbo is the reason I'm not buying the cams until winter). Did you decide to use them with just GTR springs or the whole solid works? I'd imagine with the 20 in my car, I should be about the same weight as you are... or slightly less. Hopefully I can pull the same low 12's high 11's that you might run (Hybrid FMIC, 3-4" tapered GReddy TR2 exhaust, no cat, MKIV fuel pump, 550cc S5 inj, K&N pod filter, S-AFC 5 knob, and RB25 MAF). I still might need some more control over the engine... not sure though.

Well, I've definitely had enough of it. I thought it was funny that when I saw this on a post in a UK 200sx forum yesterday: A guy put a RB25DET (actually converted it to TT http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&...20&pagenumber=1) into his S13, and when he was building up the motor he said the following, "...the RB is amazingly similar in construction and design to the CA. It really does look like a 6-pot CA....or is the CA a 4-pot RB ?" This would explain why the CA is in my R32 RB FSM. With this, I also saw somewhere else that the reason they replaced the CA with the SR was b/c the CA was to expensive to produce due to its advanced technology. Being an engineer for Bosch and seeing when model changes occur, typically you will not follow through with a design/model change unless it is significantly less expensive to produce. Who's not to say you can't produce more power (stock) with less money... the LS1 out of a Vette puts out more power than a M62 4.4L out of a BMW (5,7,8 series), and I'm sure it cost less to produce. If you told me the tech in the LS1 was better than the M62... well, I would hope you are comfortable in your padded wall room. Unlike that v8 example, you can pick up a used CA for almost nothing vs. (as I said before... and it was overlooked) the Redtop SR costing about 3 times as much. So with equal money put into both motors... you'd have one tough CA vs. a lagging stock redtop. Granted I'm more into the tech side, which is why I really like the CA's and RB20 and 26 (not a huge fan of the 25). OK... so now we continue on topic... or I guess we could start a new thread and let this chap have his back. OMG, the world is not against you and neither is this forum. If you want to avoid being attacked... try being less pessimistic and more tactful in your comments. No one wants to hear a grown man whine (in the form of circular reasoning at that).

You could buy one here in the US and then drive it over... would save at least 1000USD in shipping. I picked up my 240 for 1700USD (seats in carpet are the only "issues" in its quality). How much have you been quoted for a 32 or a 180?

I would still say do a swap in a local 240sx (didn't notice you were in Canada)... First off for your goals a R32 is heavy... The R32 GTS-T weighs in @ 1320kg curb and the CA powered 180sx comes in at 1120kg curb. I would think that you could almost put the RB20 in the trunk of a CA powered 180sx and still come in at about the same weight as an R32. It comes down to what you want: - If you want originality in Canada - go with the R32... if you're going through the trouble... why not a GTR? - If you want a RHD turbo'd S13... go with the 180sx - If you still want originality and power... but not at the price of buying, registering, and shipping a 180sx or R32 - 240sx w/ a RB20DET I would imagine that after aquireing a R32 or 180sx, you would almost be at your goal with a RB20 or CA powered 240sx (since S13's are so cheap here).

I had to go back to page one to see what the original question was... Well bud, I personally have a RB20 powered S13 (you think your all stuck with crappy motors... try our KA24E(DE) motors Nissan shafted us with). Mine is in the build stage (RB S13 #2 for me... see my sig), but my buddies RB20 S14 is a beautiful drive. The cool thing about the two motors you are looking at are their low buy-in price. From the looks of it... I'd say to get the output req for what you want to do they might be about the same price in the end. I am not sure, so some CA builders might need to give their accounts, but mine is on its way to that power mark and should come in at about $5000 USD when it gets there (convert at www.xe.com), including the price of the car. Each motor has its own advantages, be it SR, RB or CA... it comes down to what you are looking for out of the motor and your budget. With the same amount of money into each motor, I'd imagine you would have a more powerful RB or CA due to their lower initial cost. Engineering aside, even the low tech redtop (compared to its later variants) clips for SR's cost 500-800 more than a RB clip and 1000+ more than the CA clips. Depending on what your car started out with, I'm sure that could help you in your decision. With $500-1000 USD into a RB or CA... I'd imagine both would be a fair step ahead of a stock SR motor. No one can really bring up difficulties in the RB install... it is just as straight forward as a SR swap. I am more than willing to help someone out if they want to save a few bucks (most likely email, but if you want to pay for a plane ticket to AU and house me for a bit I don't mind... the install would be no charge minus parts needed!). Hopefully this helps you out bud.

I know you don't agree with him, but you can try useing some tact in your arguement. From what I've seen, he has always provided reliable information in the past. Maybe he should post the author and copyrights or something... regardless... keep in mind the way you respond is a reflection on your character.

This is happening on my buddy's 20 and is an inconsistent problem like yours. We have replaced the AAC so far, and it is still doing the same thing. We have been told that it could be due to a TB warmer issue (something about a coolant line that is run to the bottom of the TB)... is there any validity to this diagnosis?

If you ran this setup (assuming motor has forged pistons), where would your new redline be now?

I can't wait to see this comparison! This is something I have wanted to see for a long time. Are the 2530's the same trim?

Would you do 500 shipped to the US?

That is one thing I do not have the luxury of... trading a GTS-T in on a GTR. This would definitely be in my list of considerations if I was you. In your shoes my list would be the following: 1. Reasonably build the 20... maybe head gasket, pistons, rings and rods if you need a freshened motor... and have some good ol' fun with it. 2. Trade in the ol' GTS-T on a GTR (using the money that would have gone into moding the 20 to make up the difference... maybe finance a little) 3. Do a RWD 26 swap on the GTS-T I know I'm going to have opposition to this from some people, and I am cool with that... it's not their car... or mine for that matter. Different strokes for different folks.

I am not looking to be faster than anyone else. I am looking to build a RB20 the best I can build it up (even if it requires custom parts), and more or less like you said... get the most out of a 2L. Don't get me wrong, I do want a fast car, but I don't care if "guy X" can beat me b/c he has a RB25 and I don't. I will have another car down the road that can do this... not sure what though. My car came with a KA24DE, which is a crap 4cyl truck motor over here in the states. There are plenty of people who will argue this point with me, but I really don't like driving the car with that motor in it. I would say my VQ35DE in my Pathy revs smoother than the KA does by a long shot. The car is being built for fun/track/drift/street, and it is not my daily driver. It is mostly a fun car that I can do a lot of things with... Why would you say that a RB25 swap is better than a 26? The 26 seems to be a well sorted motor from the factory. He could probably pull his 250rwkw goal easily without much more than a solid turbo back, pod filter, and boost controller correct? It would be a reliable, basically stock motor at this power level would it not? I'm just not a big fan of the 25. It seems to be everyone's saving grace, and I think it gets a little more credit than it's due. The inicial investment may be more with a 26, but there is not a lot to change on the motor to get significant power out of it. Excuse me skidmark, if this info is not useful to you we can continue our discussion in PM or something. Let me know... this is your thread/topic.

I am a big 20 fan myself, and for more or less the same reasons as these. I feel if I were to do anything other than a 20 it would be a RB26DETT with a RWD conversion (I have a S13 with the RB20 and my buddy has a S14 with a RB20). You could pick up a 26 unit out of a R32 and most likely produce the power levels you are looking for by turning up the wick on the boost a little bit. I'd imagine you could pick up the 26 for a good price where you are, since they are running for 3500-5500 USD for clips here in the states (depending on what year/model clip). The 26 fad is really big here in the states right now. Shops are trying really hard to get a few examples of S-chassis cars with that motor in it at the moment. I am content on playing with the 20 while it is overlooked and priced low. The engineering aspect of building up a clean high reving, well powered (300rwkw) is more interesting to me than building a RB26 at the moment. Back to your subject... I have never really liked the 25. The extra money you would put toward a 26 you would get returns several times over, in my opinion. The 26 is a well proven powerplant that has very high limits. My logic behind this, without any experience with the 26, comes from companies like TOMEI that will use a 26 crank (http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...35_rb25det.html) in their RB25 buildup of Phase 3... their highest level of building up a motor. This is not to forget many other owners who are able to pull exceptional, useable power out of this same motor. Well, enough of me blabbing on... this is my dollar twenty on the subject. Hopefully this helped a little...

Good luck! What other mods do you have/will you have to go along with the turbo upgrade? This is going on a 20 as well?

Thanks for the clarification, as I am not very familiar with what is involved in a GT3040. That site has been very helpful, and they were very quick in replying to my emails about their products. After speaking with Sydneykid and doing some research, I think I will be going with that GT30R with the 500hp rating and .60 AR turbine.

Good luck at the track MRPREZ! You never know, if you really wanted 500rw and could make the power band smoothly peak out at 500rw @ 8000rpm (possible with a RB20 due to small displacement)... with some tall gearing, it may be useable. Otherwise, if wheel spin is still a problem, you do have one good setup to make some beautiful tire roasting sideways action points at a drift event! Always looking for the half full you know...

That is great to hear that boost comes on so early. Looks like I might be copying your setup more or less bud, as 400rwhp is my goal! How would a GT30R .60 A/R or a GT35R .70 A/R (these are the standard a/r's i've seen for these turbos) compare with the 3040? These turbos are easier to come across around here.

Now that I cleared up that full exhaust includes a cat in the PM (not always sure on slang when we are dealing with two countries), I wonder how much power that cat is holding back at that power level? We don't have emissions testing or visual inspection where I am!!!

Good luck at the track (I assume that's what that is)! What exhaust are you running after the turbo? Are you running a cat?