RBsileighty

Good to hear your enjoying the car so much MRPEZ! So where does the motor start making any boost at all? Does it still feel like a somewhat smooth transition, more or less (relative of course), as a less "high powered" turbo than yours? As long as you can dump the fuel, and your computer can keep up with the amount of air coming in... boost'er on up! I agree that 20psi should be fine... no promises... but at least for a bit!!! Roy: 14.7psi = 1 bar ... there are a few more decimal places in there, but that works 99.9% of the time. Sometimes 15psi = 1 bar is used for simplicity in calculations.

You would also have to search very hard for rods that would fit both for the 2.1 setup correct? I like the small displacement of 2.0 myself, but just figure I'd throw that in since the wristpin for the 2.5 and 2.0 should be significantly different (only dealt with 2.0's myself).

Going by the map of a GT30R, which shouldn't be extremely far off from the 3040 he is using (correct?), he's making the right amount of power for that kind of boost. http://www.atpturbo.com/root/maps/gt30r.htm Looks like he is really going to have to "turn up the boost" to make that puppy put out some higher numbers, going by that chart. These are only my assumptions, so those with more experiance please chime in on this one. Congrats on getting the car back! So is there any boost before 4100? Is it gradual or rdoes it rocket up from 4000-4100? Sweet car bud!

Better for it to be finished late and have it done right (half full thinking). I can't wait to hear the results, congrats!

I have a question, this was posted on another forum: Who is right, this guy or HKS?

Very good information, thank you very much. I wasn't as worried about lift as much as I was rev capability. My reasoning for looking into them was that I figured respectible companies like TOMEI and JUN wouldn't make them if they weren't needed for a reason. I have not run across cams that have a higher lift than 9.5 for the 20, so I guess they really are only intended for the VG motors. Sounds like the stock springs will be fine for my purpose. Thanks again. Any pointers Sydneykid or Warp (anyone who knows really) about the best way to prep my head for my power goals? I was planing on a mild 3-5 angle on the valves and DE cams. What porting/pollishing would be good/needed do you think?

How would you go about hardening the valve seats? Would I have to heat treat the whole head?

So it is a direct bolt on, I didn't know that... awesome! I am capable of fabing up a DP no problem. So how does the T28BB off of the S14's compare to the RB25 unit?

Since it is a T28, how does it bolt straight up to the manifold?

Are there any valve seats available for the RB20? I was looking into running TOMEI's or JUN's VG30DETT valve spring set. My goal is to have a 8500 redline (why I want valve springs), and then match a turbo to make a longer power band. I do know it might be less to build a 25 and make more power, but that is not what I'm looking to do now. I am more in this for the engineering aspect. Here are TOMEI's RB20,VG spring specs: http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...4_v-spring.html Would they need a stronger valve seat?

I hope this helps some, I've been looking into this subject myself. Here is what I've recieved from Gary Armstrong here in the states (http://www.drysump.com/price.htm), the email order goes from bottom to top: I did talk to Nissan, and it seens your oil pan is integral with the gearbox and is therefore different from the Z pans we make. We can , however, modify your pan to work I am confident. If you could send me a pan, I will work out the best design for you, and give you an estimate. The rest of the system is no problem, so haveing a pan here will allow me to give you an intelligent plan as to hoe to go about your system. Let me know. Thanks, Gary ------------- That sounds really good, we should have no problem making a mounting bracket for the pump. Let me know when you find out about the pan. I didn't know they had the same bolt pattern as the Z's, but I might be able to send you an extra pan to work with if you find they are not the same. Let me know what you find out from Nissan. -------------- I believe the RB 20 is the same bolt pattern as our 240-280Z Dry sumps, right? I have an e mail into Nissan to verify this. I have these in stock, as well as dry sump pumps in 3 and 4 stage. We also can incorporate a drain in the pan for your turbos. The mount for the pump is something that most engine builders make themselves, ( flat alum. plate generally mounted @ side of block) Our pump has 4 mount holes in the side which make for an extreemly ridgig mount. We also can provide you with the Tank, and drive pulleys ect. Please feel free to call me at 916-987-7629 or e mail, if you have any questions. Thank you, Gary Armstrong www.drysump.com ------------ I am looking into making a dry sump system for my RB20DET motor. This is a 2L straight six single turbo motor if you are not familiar with it. Here is a site dedicated to it for some reference http://www.rb20det.com/index.html We are a shop in Charleston, SC and I am looking to use this type of oiling setup in our shop car. The motor is being built to redline at 8500rpm (rotating assembly is balanced to 9k). I don't know if boost is a factor in the making of a setup, but the motor will be boosting about 25-28psi and producing around 400rwhp. The car will compete in road coarses and autocrosses mostly. It will also compete in drift events from time to time. Thank you very much for your time and help!

I assume you had the SR20DET in you silvia before? If not I would definitely recommend upgrading that fuel pump asap with the T3/T4 on there. I am on my third RB20 S body swap now (bought my new motor yesterday), and there is a good chance your fuel pump might not be up to snuff. We are running JIC 3" turbo back (no cat, custom DP/FP) exhaust, stock SMIC, and intake on my buddies S14 (my second swap) and he was starting to run lean beyond 4k rpm. I picked up some of those S5 TII RX7 injectors (S5 are 550cc high imp) and will be shipping them to him soon to help out that problem. He has a SAFCII to cut them back since he is only pushing the stock turbo at 13psi, which is high for the turbo but low for the injectors. Did you do anything for your tach? I am going to try and put a potentiometer in where the stock resistor is for the signal with a 50-100k ohm range to try and fix the 4cyl's tach interpretation of the 6cyl signal. I will let you know how that goes if you want. Check my sig to see the cars I've worked with if you want (it's free to join that image service to view them). Page 11 is a video of my buddy's S14. The red S13 was my first one, which I ditched since it was a rather rough body as you can see. The black one is my new project. Congrats on the swap!

DJ, the 25's turbo is a upgrade from your R32's stocker (not smaller). What is the deal with running boost increasing mods with the stock turbo? My buddy's S14 we are running with my old 20 (see "Old Platform" in sig for visuals) is coming up to 13psi now with only filter and 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat). Will we be able to upgrade to a FMIC without threatening the ceramic turbine since we are already close to 1 bar? We were thinking of running a T3 turbo, like DJ was thinking about, with a steel impeller as an inexpensive safety buffer while we prepare the rest of the systems to accept a larger turbo later.

What injectors did you end up running with this setup? I can't wait to hear about your results!

Obviously I offended you and I didn't mean to do so. If you could help me out that would be great. As far as your swap is concerned, both of my swaps were originally rwd manual trans motors, however, both of them had auto wiring in the engine harness. When the auto wiring was disregarded the motor/trans still worked as normal. These wires can be found in the RB service manual (colors and such). Good luck and I hope this helps.

I was going to post a new thread, but this is kind of on subject. First off, I am not new to RB's. I have done two RB swaps, one into the S13 and one into a S14. I have the option to buy another RB, and wondered what you thought. Reason this is on subject is b/c it is a RB25DET out of a Stagea wagon, so it has the crazy stuff up front. The guy wants $1930 AUD shipped. I am not worried about the gearbox or wiring, so basically is this a good deal for a 96 motor? What all will I need (is it possible even) to convert this to a regular oilpan and ECR33 manual trans? I can pick up the trans for $1866 AUD shipped, and the pan for 450ish AUD. I will be running a Haltech or Microtech (which do you prefer?), which is why the wiring isn't a big deal. Good luck with your swap m8!