shanef

as adriano said u can buy a tube sleeve & nut and flare the end of the tube. personally i would only do it this way. also with the braided hose, make sure u heat wrap it or you'll find it melting in the not too distant future.

are you serious? theres gotta be something funky going on there somewhere caus it doesnt make sence. whats rail pressure set at?

Said rb25 arp headstuds went into a ~900hp engine so if they are not upto the task we'll soon find out. I asked both jhh and chilton engingeering about whether we needed extra dowels/collars to support the head and both said the factory fitted locating dowels will be fine. Heres another way to think about it. Any extra meat left in the block is only going to make it stronger.

why is the manifold runners soooo long and soooooo large in diameter for such a small turbo? also it could be a good idea to do some proper heat shielding of the exhaust beside the box or u could run into box problems with overheating oil

Seems like you've already got them on marko

ok paul, but be gentle steve, flow figures should only be used as a guide, if u go chasing 'max flow' u'll prolly find the head will be worse than a stocker. the results u get from a flow bench are only static volumes, i.e flow in cfm is only measured at set lift heights and they dont take into consideration the rapid change of lift variations from an engine running in the real world (valves open/closed thousands of times and varying amounts) have a look at the thread i posted about a head i had done recently

Pull ur head in paul. That wasnt my intention and i didnt assume npc sponsored you, it was soley to figure out ur reasoning behind the change of statement. You should expect me to be 'cheeky' when ur so open and putting ur opinion out there all the time, if u get it wrong expect to be corrected or questioned. Sorry marko! back on topic

lol whats up ur shirt? if you dont like it paul u shouldnt put ur head on the chopping block

Firstly, i wish you all the luck in the world, and then some. Secondly, how far over 1000hp are you aiming?

Lookin good marko! Now to get out, run some k's up and wind the wick up Last time u said it was due to sponsorship requirements

certainly will

No it cant it almost hits on the cam cover too

yeh, i spose you could say that

Fuel system i recently did for a mates 33gtr im building. For the fuel pump wiring, i used 2 30amp fused relays, 1 for each pump. Power is connected straight to the battery, and the trigger for the relays is spliced into the factory harness, its the wire that goes down into the fuel tank, its a switched 12v that powers on when u flick the key, easy to find with a multi.

Id look at using a std rb30 oil pump. With a proper balancer they seem to work quite well.

u knew what i meant though well theres ur answer! get the m&w setup and never look back

why cut corners on ignition when uve obviously spent an absolute motsa on an ecu and probably everything else in the car. personally id go m&w cdi, m&w coils & magnacore leads. last time i spoke to m&w total in parts was $2350, that included an installation kit, pro 16 cdi (youd prolly have to use a different cdi seeing u cant use direct fire) 6 coils, and 6 custom made leads (leads made by magnacore which m&w recommend) also, why did u chose an ecu that doesnt use direct fire ignition?

i had this arguement with dan aswell. like him, you can get f**ked too

I forgot to add, the actual height of it makes it a prick to put the box on if u dont lower the engine subframe

For those wondering how the NPC twin could be uber good (im not saying it is though) have a look at these pics:

it certainly is double lol, isnt it steve

260/9.15 from a jap cam or 264/272/282 8.95 from kelford - dont quote me though that angry idle is mainly from the port work and os valves. id get the big cams that u want to run down the track, now and just clearance the head for the extra lift. Then when u have time/money do the rest of the headwork later.

put the biggest size cam in the std 26 head, then next teardown/head off event get it modified. Ideally with that turbo u want to see atleast 270/10.5 cams in that head with a proper port/valve job. I dare say the ones using near std heads of any sort would have a massive hole down low in the torque/power band.

If its got other good quality bolt on bits like ecu, exhaust, afm's, suspension etc then i say go for it. But coming into the import scene fresh and having no relationships with workshops/suppliers (like BB said), be very careful and get everything in writing, there are ALOT of shonky people around that are more than willing to rape u stupid and think nothing of it.

are they the new RSR tyres? if so you will be suprised at how good they actually are