shanef

thats a tad underated for both sets.

say what? theo is actually back out racing? or was he just out for some 3/4 track burnouts again

homo's

how come ur 'home' early paul? hope the car made it through winternats aok did mark manage to get his head around the slider enough to make it work? i heard today he ran a 7.92... P.S its about 6welds, a bit of bar and bobs ur uncle for the chute u lazy pillick

if you want it done properly and have the piece of mind its not going to blow up or use more oil than fuel i'd see Dan @ Elite Racing Developments. He's just opened a new workshop in stapylton so just up the road for you. 0407111229 oh i left out the bit where it wont cost u an arm, a leg and both kidneys too

my verniers are saying its an M11 thread both ends. The block end is definately metric, but im unsure on what thread arp use on their nuts, as u said its obviously finer. Not sure whats doing with the ridge, cant say ive taken notice whilst installing them so cant say if it stops them bototming out or what. Also the shank is smaller than the threaded ends.

20mm makes it a problem with the arp rb26 studs . i just measured it then, with the arp rb26 studs, theres 13mm from the top of the nut to the top of the stud with it torqued to arp specs what you will have to do is either fill out an order form, or ring arp direct and order a set of studs similar to the rb26 kit but with 20mm more shank. shouldnt be too much more expensive then a normal arp set. pic is of rb26 headbolt and arp2000 headstud P.S got pics of said spacer/hi deck setup?

id go to a stud, that way you could just use the std arp rb26 headstud kit as i dont think the 2mm is going to make any difference as theres plenty of thread for the nut to screw down onto.

give the guys at rocket industries a call and ask them about which kit would be best. i got a NOS single fogger 150hp wet kit for around 850 last year

the junior dragsters shit me at a big event like this. there is obvioulsy more than enough of them to warrant their own event. its obvious the crowds arent in favour of them as everytime they race, the crowd disappears maybe if they sounded half decent itd be kinda bearable, but they dont and 87 of the little f**kers omg *slits wrists*

if the budget is there then yeh for sure 25+psi. do you want any drivability out of the car? i.e do you want it to have plenty of pull down low and spool up early? or do you not really care about that. if the answer is yes then you are going to have to spend some bucks on the cylinder head aswell.

the turbo is going to be massively lazy without any sort of proper boost, and if u do stretch its legs its going to fly well over 400rwkw. if u 'only' want 400rwkw u should think about down sizing ur turbo to either a gt35r 1.06ex or a t04z .82ex

and what type of headwork? are we talking oversized valves, good springs, decent sized cams, PROPER port job or just a basic she'll be right port fettle?

give dan from erd a call - 0407111229. from memory the rb26 one is around the 525 mark and i think the rb20/rb25 ones are a bit cheaper

performance wholesale in brisbane sell the ati balancers for $740. i suggest you read the other thread on balancers. you'll find no one gives reasons to back up their claims that the ati is actually better than the ross balancer

id use the acl vrs kit, good quality headgaskets and comes with all the other gaskets you need for the build. with that turbo and the drag use i wouldnt use an N1 pump, id put atleast either a jun or tomei pump on but ideally i'd use an external pump. no need for an N1 water pump. you'll want an extended sump not just a baffle plate to keep it alive.

sounds to me the only difference is a change in material selection. after testing a few gears its not hard to see how that change was soo easy

you only need a single stage pump unless your going to go the dry sump route. a pump from BDG, Peterson, Weaver will give you good results. oil pressure you'll need to talk to ur engine builder to see what he wants to see but i know the BDG pumps are adjustable from 10-150psi (actual pressure will depend on flow resistance and oil consumption of the engine). external oil pumps flow a massive amount of oil compared to a conventional internal oil pump. fyi the BDG pump flows 42cc/pump revolution so at 2000rpm engine speed with 2:1 reduction, pump does 1000rpm and delivers 42l/min. compared to std rb26 pump 15.2l/min and jun 19.5l/min both at 2000rpm (std and jun figures pulled from the jun website)

are performance springs and PSI springs the same company? have you used any of the supertech stuff trent? marko, do you know what shim size was needed with the cams? i'm guessing its a pretty big one caus u didnt list aftermarket buckets... also what springs did u go for? big revs on that setup & ur going to be tearing it down regularily to keep it alive

thanks for taking the time trent to give ur reasons why u dont like the ross balancers

i dont really care who did it, how they did it all im interested in is how it was 'thrown off'. i dont understand pauly, explain it better please

i can get a few things from the above... crank bolt came lose - who didnt do it up/put it on properly? crankshaft snout out of round/out of tolerance - who didnt check crank/balancer tolerance? balancers dont just come off by themselves or is there something else that happened?

if you look in the top of the gearbox where the shifter sits, there is a groove, this is where said clip sits. its a pain to get in put u've gotta be forceful with it, but it does go in

what was the reason/s he/they stopped using the ross ones? no point saying they are crap and the ati ones are far superior if there arent any real reasons

reasons why?