SirRacer

You dont need a smaller banjo bolt either. Just use an easy out and remove the piece in there. My brakes have been working fine like that for maybe 3 years now.

what are the symptoms of this issue?

Just tracked down a guy in NZ who has had a similar problem. He couldnt quite explain it but the gist was that the belt was stretching and throwing the timing out. Anyone care to explain how this would work? I spoke to a friend whos a mechanic tonight and he seemed to think if the belt was out and throwing timing the car would run like crap, yet mine runs perfectly. This is what he wrote anyway (i cant quite decipher it) "My Car we changed the 360 degree cam angle sensor And I put on a Crank Angle Sensor. Was going out by 14-15 degree now is 0/0 perfect timing. When we put cam angle sensor on made 409kw I think and timing out by 4 degrees. Put Crank angle sensor on the 0/0 made 451kw at same boost"

What sort of spacer did you get made? Have you got any pics of it? A guy in NZ did one and heres a link to his auction with some pics http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=348666328 Cheers

Is this DIY mechanic sort of thing or should i be checked by a workshop? Will get it checked by mechanic mate on Saturday. I asked the tuner about this also as the engine has just been rebuilt. He seemed to think that it wouldnt make good power anywhere if that was the case, but will check it now anyway. I havent seen any other rb25de (r32) intakes with power levels higher than this so thought id may have been that.

Greddy cam gears. Very secure. We adjusted them both ways and they just shifted the power curve. Something is definitley wrong somewhere so all these ideas are great. Im not sure about the fuel batch idea though, maybe read the post a bit more, as its making power everywhere else, so there isnt any reason why at a set point it should stop. 295kws @14 psi is actually pretty good power wise, its just once we get past this point that things cause issues.I asked the tuner about the timing and he said its bang on. Cant download the map at the moment but will send it to Lith who will no doubt check it out once ive got the info.

Thanks guys. Exhaust has no cat, one cannon muffler and bugger all bends. Its noisy as hell but i didnt build it as a street car. Intake is an r32 so you cant just go and buy a greddy copy so easily, its custom manifold time. I asked about the timing belt and whether the cams werent installed at TDC, but the tuner said the engine ran way too smoothly for that to be the case. Will check out the turbo pressure drop too. A friend of mine whos very clued up with rb's is doing some research as well so hopefully we can get to the bottom of the problem.

Gidday all, Just looking for some ideas on a problem ive encountered. My car makes 295kws on 14psi and then basically stops making power from that point on even with the cam gears adjusted, more boost and ignition timing changed etc.Ive added the dyno plot which shows 4 psi = about 9 kws which isnt right for a turbo of my size. Rb30det R32 rb25 head with cam gears but stock cams Rebuilt internals 8.5 comp rb30, all rebuilt etc 3.5 inch exhaust with one muffler (loud as hell so hopefully flows ok) gt3540 1.06 turbo, with Sinco customs turbo manifold with the gate out the housing. Im just looking for some first hand ideas of what the problem may be. Some would say cams, but ive had friends of friends make 370kws on the stock cams. My intake is a bit interesting so have added up a picture of that 2. Any suggestions would be great, but if you dont know, please dont post as it will just give me things to check that i dont need to. Cheers

s13 manual from memory, or if its a 33 box just use the stock auto one (thats what i did). Alternatively just make one with a thin piece of alloy and then get a fabricator to remake it in stainless.

If you cant get a 6boost contact Mike @ Sinco customs in New Zealand. With the strength of the Aussie dollar it would probably be cheaper + the quality is easily as good.

Whats something like that worth in Oz mate?

r33 racer was bang on. i just heard back from the guy who built the engine who basically said that at high rpms they can get up to around 90 psi (my gauge only goes to 80), when cold it can go over 120psi and when the oil is warm it can be as low as 15psi. Just for anyone who does a search. Cheers

Its a mechanical gauge. Just a cheapy but the tuner said it works as well as the more expensive ones. It seems to read right off the gauge, ie it is between 80psi (i think thats the highest it reads) and 0

Hi all, My engine cracked an oil pump last year on the dyno. We stopped the car before it caused any damage and i had the block rebuilt with new bearings and a brand new 33gtr oil pump. Ive now repainted the car and am driving it really for the first time since (have started and driven it before but not a great deal). Ive had a oil press gauge installed. This is T'd into the standard oil press fitting. On idle the gauge sometimes reads nothing, then can shoot up as high as 70psi once the car gets warmer. When im driving it the oil pressure is off the gauge (80psi), and then once the car is warm the oil pressure will sit at about 30psi at idle. Is this normal and what should i be looking for? Cheers

I did mine when i was paneling my car for paint. Im not sure id do it on a car that you were going to keep without touching the paint.The reason for this is that they get stiff and break and getting them off can be horribly hard. The glue is also bloody thick. For me i got a paint scraper and got them off then used the paint scraper to get rid of most of the glue(it left a few scratches). I then tried thinners and this would have taken months so i sanded the glue off instead. If you do remove them, just be carefull and allow a few hours to do it.

It depends on how much power you are making really and the price difference you can get the boxes for. If the car is an auto as well, the crossmember will work perfectly (the auto one).

buy a better turbo manifold mate. those ones cause so many issues.

My Laufiro. Have been building it for 5 or so years and only just painted it. Runs and rb30det. More details on my build thread. Bit high at the back but otherwise my slicks dont fit. Cheers DSCF3194_small

Bit of an update now is in order as its finally finished. We primed again on 17 December to allow the 1k primer plenty of time to cure and shrink. While my mate was away on holiday (we have become good mates with the amount of time we have spent together sanding) was on holiday until the 10th, so after Xmas i resprayed the door jams, boot and the front guards in the engine bay. When my mate came back from holiday we then sanded back the car with a 400 grit sandpaper on the 13th and got into the spray booth on the 14th (January). Having seen the mess than the overspray made to my garage, and combined with the fact that although my compressor was the biggest you can get on normal 2 phase power, it didnt keep up with the gun flow, we decided to borrow my mates booth at work ($150) and spray the car there. Using a $1200 spray gun was also looking a bit more promising than my 26 dollar job, as was masking using proper paper instead of my favoured newspaper. DSCF3166_small DSCF3172_small DSCF3171_small DSCF3185_small DSCF3184_small Car all painted. A couple of runs in the paint work, but according to my mate thats perfectly normal. I drove it home and now am piecing it back together. Once its done, hes going to come around the scrape out the runs (they use a razor suprisingly) buff the car and then its good to go. The hard part now will be remembering how the internal door latches go together. While all the trims were out, i also gave them a quick polish up with Autosol as they were cover in corrision. Some bits where i couldnt reach are still a bit average, but it is a Cefiro after all. DSCF3190_small The back bumper isnt on yet as i needed to get the brackets i made modified as i cant get a bolt underneath them. Mike from Sinco Customs will do this for me as hes going to remake my brackets out of steel instead of alloy now. As the bumper is a series 2 cefiro, the mounting brackets are different with a series 1 car. The bumper didnt have brackets to modify so i made my own out of a sheet of alloy. DSCF3193_small

What did you have to do with the wiring to get everything all running?

Amazing how much pride you are taking with the cefiro. Here in NZ a car like that (even in top condition) would probably sell for maybe 2000 NZD. Most older ones are either used as drifters or paddock bashers.

I primed the car myself in the garage and has issues with the gun shooting the primer. The gun explicitly states not to go over 43psi, yet i had to thin the primer 200% more than it reccomended to get it to spray.Crappy chinese spray gun! DSCF3092 Unfortunately my masking on the door jams wasnt good enough to i have overspray on the area ive just painted. Bugger! My girlfriend has a mate whos a painter so i asked him to come around and check out my spray gun. Id never met him before but he came around and checked out what id done and has since offered to help. He helped smooth a dent i was having trouble with on the roof and then noticed a few more on the car id missed. Im pretty fussy so he was doing well. Its quite interesting how easy a pro can check out a car and pick all the flaws in it. I thought i had it sorted but hes noted a few more we have now fixed. Anyway, we sanded the primer back again with a DA sander (i should have brought one in the first place) and then have since primed again with a bigger gun,and a lot more pressure. 4 coats of prime now on. Ive got and spot puttied all of the little inperfections in the paint work as well as the bumpers, so they will be treated to another few layers of primer, over the etch prime. The primer also showed that my compressor wasnt keeping up. I will hire one for the top coat so we dont have issues with the fan shrinking, and water seeping into the paint as the compressor was getting so hot. The door jams are also now masked up again and we will paint those before we top coat. Door jams we will do in the next few days, and the final coat on the 10/15th of Jan once i can get a bigger compressor that keeps up.

I took the car to get dynoed December 09, and the oil pump unfortunately managed to crack on the dyno. Teaches me for using a second hand oil pump, but i guess im just lucky that it didnt happen on the road as i wouldnt have noticed it. Bottom end since been rebuilt with new very expensive 33gtr oil pump, along with new bearings all round. Shame as the other ones hadnt done more than 1000kms, but we did it for precaution. Have mounted up an oil press gauge now. Most recent updates: (last few weeks) Since its been rebuilt after an oil pump breakage I’ve done about 100kms in it, but taken it to my trusty warrant guy, so its now warranted and ready to go. As im at Uni at the moment cash is tight, and I’ve always wanted to learn how to paint in case I ever get the hankering to do up something like the rx2 series 2 sedan I’ve always wanted. The car has dents everywhere, holes in the occasional place (bonnet pins that I remounted) and mismatching panels, so time for a new colour. As i’m a bit older now, and I want to sell it Matt Black wasn’t to be again, so I’ve decided to go white. I’ve got no painting experience at all, other than painting a speaker box for my boat. Panel wise im no better off, but ive got a cheap trademe paint gun and a 15cmf compressor I got from trademe as well First step – Strip the car to get it ready for masking to do interior. While I was stripping the rear tail lights, I noticed a heap of rust that id paid to have removed years ago. Turns out the panelbeater just used a urethane glue and glued over it. As i cant weld, and had the car stripped so couldn’t drive it anywhere, I cut out all the rust with a grinder, and fixed it with a number layers of fibreglass on each side of the holes. Fibreglass is a perfectly fine way of removing rust/patching holes and is easy to work with + I’m pretty handy with it. Its now physically stronger than the metal in the repair spots. All holes sorted out and fixed. I wanted to flare the rear guards to match the custom Laufiro guards on the front. After a panelbeater telling me they would do them with a dolly I used a big hammer to bash out the rears and then covered them with a scim of bog to just help with the shape. The paint cracked, so I wouldn’t recommend it but for me it worked fine. They are now probably 15-20mms wider than a stock cefiro, and look heaps better. DSCF3067 While I was at it, I changed the bumper to a series 2 cefiro one id be given and fixed up as it was in crap condition. These are a bit lower, and look smoother than the original one. I don’t like the aftermarket bumpers as low = cracking, so will stick with these. DSCF3066 Interior door jams all painted now. This is a hell of a lot harder than it looks as all the nooks and in the doors are hard to get to with the spray gun. Masking the door gaps is a hell of a job, and i managed to leave a big enough gap to allow overspray onto the inside windscreen. Painting the exterior will hopefully be much easier. The paint is light in 2 places (will fix when im doing exterior) but otherwise im happy with how its come out. DSCF3055 DSCF3060 I also sanded both bumpers back to plastic, fibreglassed over the cutout in the rear bumper where a towbar once was, and repaired inperfections in both. I then primed with an etch primer. DSCF3061 Im at the stage where the car has had all the dents in the roof filled (don’t ever jump on your hack cars roof, as you may try and fix it up one day) and most other inperfections sorted. The roof dents took me the better part of a day to get out. Otherwise the body is still looking good from where the dents were removed last time. I replaced one door and removed the plastic door liners (mid door) from the doors to match the replacement door i brought as one had dents and lots of rust. The car has now been sanded down with 320 grit all over. Plan for tomorrow is to sand it again, wash it twice with dishwashing liquid, wipe down with a wax and grease remover and then prime, with 3 to 4 layers of primer to give me a nice base to work with. Then will give it a week to cure (I didn’t want to fork out huge money for 2pack primer, so im using a 1k) and potentially shrink, then ill put on my top layer of 2k Arctic white.

2009 updates Will just add in a few update to what ive been up to in the last few years: I changed the turbo manifold to a brand new one (pics as below) which didnt solve the problem but improved boost response. A friend of a friend offered me a bigger exhaust housing for a good price so i took that and put that on, and took the opportunity to sell my Tial 44mm gate and buy a Turbosmart 48mm gate. I still had boost creep problems so I now have the wastegate mounted off the turbo housing which works perfectly. Biofuel (E10 from Gull) is still causing me issues with my fuel tank sealing so i have another of those, and my fuel is still overheating so i have a new 044 to test out so see whether thats the problem. I also got around to fitting the custom Laufiro guards i have had for ages for the car. I dropped one of them at one stage which cracked it so another 10 hours later it was finished again. Now the plan is just to repaint the car so its at least one colour. Im thinking white at this stage to help with resale.

Nice manifold! Mine was one of Mikes first merged ones and the car he did half his testing on. Hes probably told you the overboost story, and yeah that was my thing not holding boost. Was thinking about moving to Aussie due to better job opportunities but think i might stay in NZ. My 350kw car is perfectly legal on the roads with big wastegate, turbo etc. Its a shame really that you guys get put through the ringer for wanting to modify a car.