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unarmed_skyline

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Everything posted by unarmed_skyline

  1. lol the problem with just grabbing a q45 AFM is that it might be to big and then take longer to fill with air heance losing responce over trumpets. If your looking at saving money yes it will work and will give good power figures, but it not the best way to set it up. The benifits of going with plenum and intake with afm will be that it will me more leagal dependin on your state it is illegal to remove the afm and run a map sensor on an originally afmed car. If your looking at setting it up with a plenum i would look around to find some figures on what the best size piping and afm will be for the best responce and power, just putting a Q45 might not be the best afm to use, it is better in turbo applications but there is a lot less air in entering an na engine and it doesnt have a turbine sucking it threw the afm and pushing into the intake. Best to have a look at 2 things, 1st with itb's and trumpets what map sensor set-up you'll need as i said earlier email microtech they will give you a definitive answer within a week, then add up the cost's of the trumpets with filters, and map sensor/sensors plus any fab work you can't do yourself (wiring or mechanical/structural) Second thing have a search around on other inlarged na intake set-ups and see what has worked/not worked, and the cost's involved buying and fabbing what you need. You also need to look into what ecu your going to use. For such an nice build up i wouldnt skimp out that much on the ecu. If your going for afm with piggy bak i would suggest the greddy emanage and timing adjustments will help your build emensily, if you want to fork out a little more an ems, motec or autronic piggy backs have same features and some more goodies. If you want a little cheaper grab an safc and a second hand stic if you can find one, these to in combination will do some good fuel and timming corrections but will be very limited, as you wont be able to change injectors and there is not a huge amount corrections that can be made with these. If your going stand alone, first suggestion would be microtech or wolf 3d, then if u want to spend big dollars any of the motec autronic ems ect's will be very nice but probably a little overkill. If you want to save some coin go a link but there are not many places familiar with tunning these. I would stay away from power fc's as they are really only suited to turbo skylines and getting very hard to find. 3rd perfectly liable option would be a remap, i think they are able to remap 33 ecu's nowadays but the way they used to do it was run a 32 ecu remap that and use an apexi controller for vct or whatever its called, although if your getting bigger cam's/cam gears you'll most likely not have vct anyways. Are you considering any head work? ie upgraded valve springs cams port polish?? as may end up cheaper to just grab a compete gtr head and wacking that on the 30 block. What sort of pistons you getting stockies? or forgies?
  2. nah go the trumpets, you will notice way better throttle responce, im not to sure how to set-up the map sensors, but mabye have a look how a few others are set-up and work it out from there. theres lots of differnt itb cars with trumpets just not many skylines, so people on here might not know the exact answer. safc will be a joke i think they are a peice of junk i had one and they can only add 10 or 15% more fuel and you cant change your injectors or much else, better to go fully integratable system with ur type of set-up. i'd prob suggest a microtech ecu they are getting a lot better just upgraded all they're units. mabye send off an email to them saying what ur setting up and they will be able to suggest the best map sensor combo for your application
  3. it would be way to expencive to swap all the driveline parts and everything over and even after it was all swaped it would still not be a gtr or have the same set-up. Most people do engine conversions with the rb26 to rwd by getting an adapter plate made up. Gtr's dont just have different driveline, they have different suspention, rear quarters, front fenders, front bar headlights bonnet, interia, speedo cluster, gauges, then the obvious engine trans and running gear, it would prob be cheaper to sell the gt and buy a gtr for the cost of changing everything over
  4. i got a 33 shell for 1k
  5. pick up this w/e only no real offers refused to clear some space. Shell $1000 need your own wheels thou Fiberglass fenders $200 GTR bar $140 stock rear bar $40 Rear reo $30 Tail lights $40 each seats series 1 drivers and rear, series 2 all $120 each imm condish i have series 1 and 2 neer compelte interias make offers come down. Brand new gtr spoiler with led light $300 bootlid $50 doors $80 seatbelts $50 each complete series 1 and series 2 dual air bag types. MSG ME or call me on 0401011380 i live neer knox city.
  6. i got 2 full set's of seatbelts, 1 set for series 1 and one for dual air bag 97 series 2, they pretty easy to get out, just remove a couple of trims where the seatbelt is and then unbolt and replace as a whole unit. prob take an hour if you have never done it before. im neer knox if closer than oakleigh you can buy from me for $50
  7. lol if they are best money can buy y are the payed the worst in aust mahahaha, mabye cause they do stuff like this??
  8. 80mm will fit but it will be way to big for a stock na and u will most likely lose power and responce, best to use an xf throttle body, it you do a search there was a big disscussion on it about 6 months ago
  9. u willing to meet at vic nsw border to check out (etucha)?? have cash ready???
  10. bump, up to the top she goes
  11. i got one in melb, hows $60?
  12. i got one only used for enough time to finish my tune then i crashed my car , so its pretty much brand new cost me $1600ish for lt12s (software upgradable) with r33 plug and play, looking for $1300 in melb if u want it pm me
  13. is this an non-turbo that has a turbo engine?? or has the engine just been turboed?? as it has blue badges and 4 stud rims so must have been originally na.
  14. yup pretty much the same method, unplug the battery then drain the charge by holding down brake pedal for a while, then start her up and drive round in ur normal driving style be it calm or thrash whatever u do most, and let it learn agian.
  15. i got some 33 ones that i might donate, where's the tralior at??
  16. geeezes thats hot as wish i had the cash /me checks bank account damn not quite, free bump
  17. hey sorry they sold with the engine yesterday. pn's also replied
  18. i can sell u a complete shell in melb for like 1k
  19. i got a yellow complete mirror, howss $80>??
  20. if you end up choosing a microtech, i've got one with plug in loom for r33 ecu, which has a base tune for an na+t rb25 prob be a good starting tune comapred to what michrotech will send you, its an lt12s, only used for 2 months, upgradable software ect. They are really getting better and better as time progresses you really have to have someone who is familiar with the ecu thou, the microtechs now have the capibility of doubling with mapping points with the software upgrade which is being relased some-time this year so that should make it an even better option, plus running on a map sensor you wont have to worry about your AFM which will save some dosh, you could even spend the spare cash on setting up individual throttle bodies rather than front facing plenum, would have soo much better responce and the sounds it would roar. Also then when you set up the nos you could set up individual sprayers so perfectly even distrubution. all and all for your type of set-up i would reckomend the microtech, as power fc were very much designed for turbo engines only and lack some features, plus finding a tuner who is familiar with NA car's and power fc's would be very hard where as there are a lot more tunners tuning na's with microtech's so might get someone with more NA knowledge. Also more tech support with a microtech over power fc as aperixra went broke. As for g-readdy i would stay away from the piggy back on your set-up as it will limit a lot of options which you may need to get that last HP out of the na engine without another re-build.
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