ansch

please see here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t187091.html

Hi, I have a s15 driver side headlight. Scratches as show on the pic curtesy of a 'blind' cabbie reversing into me. :knock: Panel shop said it can be repaired (buffed right out?) but got myself a new one anyway ($460 brand new from fricken nissan) Apart from the scratches, all wiring and mountings are all good. Brisbane only at this stage $200 ono

Hi guys, Want to see what experience anyone has with regards to the suspension parts from these two brands. Things like caster rod, rear camber arms, toe rods, traction rods etc. They both look pretty solid, as good as the jap brands, the rose joint looks slightly different. "Looks" more solid on the d-project. Which one have you used and how do you find them? Thanks

bogan rice??

Spotted AmyLee this morning on SE freeway.. nice looking car.... I was in the s15

check behind the glove box. don't know about the R34 but in the s15 there is a filter that can be removed for cleaning/ replaced. It's located behind the glove box (need to remove the glove box) near where the fan is.

Where are you located?

If you want a split dump I would go for CES. The HKS "style" has the wastegate pipe joining too close too soon to the main pipe. Otherwise, go for a single chamber like tomei

that looks like just a front pipe.. you'd want to get the dump pipe/ elbow for it... either HKS or Tomei. If you're after a one piece front/dump pipe, take a look at something like CES split dump if you want to spend money on a well made piece of gear that works well.

Set your start boost to well below .65bar (eg. 0psi, doesn't really matter right now). Go for a drive and if your boost is all over the place once it hits .65 (at higher rpm) then increase the gain. You may have to lower/ increase the setgain to maintain .65bar. Once you get a stable boost, increase the start boost bit by bit until you get a bit of spike. Reduce the start boost a step or two until that spike is acceptable. This will give you the best response with stable boost. You can set the start boost to really low and it will never spike but that means less response.

Falken FK452 205/55R16 Dry:8/10 Wet:8/10 Value: 8/10 $180 each. These are great in the dry and wet compare to the yokohama c-drive's and bridgestone GIII. It's all relative and 10/10 in my book is racing compound. C-drive I would rate 6/10 and GIII 5/10

looking forward to this.. any thought on how they will compare to the Tein superstreet tuned for australian roads?

will be good to see some skylines out.. I don't own one but might be in the area around that time in the s15

get one of the magnaflow mufflers... sounds nice and deep without being loud

Hi, Has anyone in brisbane area got their DFA tuned? Recommendations? I've contacted a couple of dyno places and getting stupid responses and quotes. Not surprising as I half expected this. Cheers..

or talk to Ivan from hipowerracing. He has some of those in stock last time I was there.. UNIT 4/17 MOSS STREET SLACKS CREEK, QUEENSLAND 4126 TEL: (07) 3208 8814

I do not doubt your experience and no I have no knowledge what so ever of tuning a car. That's why I'm asking the question. So what you're saying is remap will take longer to tune and if they quote 2hr to tune a car it would be a crap tune because 2hr is not enough time to tune it properly? Sounds to me that it's more important to find a good reputable tuner who's got a good track record at what they do. Personally, I'd prefer one with a bit of people skills as well. I am the dumb customer with nfi about tuning car afterall.

and how does that affect the end result of a tuned car?

what mercury provides is what dr drift (sam) does. Although it is a remap, the tuning part is real time on the dyno.

better tyres doesn't just offer better grip by using a different compound. They're generally have better construction which means a stiffer sidewall and less deformation.

It is caused by the free boost upgrade he's done. ie. removed the restrictor in one of the factory hoses. It seems normal to me. When I did the same thing to my s15, on the dyno it showed a peak boost spike of 12psi. It should be safe but he can run it on a dyno to check a/f just in case.

The 12mm 6MT on the R34 is the same thread for the S15. So this will fit S15's as well..

http://www.mercurymotorsport.com.au

I've yet to see these spec-M's in person but I was told that trust usues the same core as the hybrid ones but with their end tanks and pipings. Made in China with their QA.

Sounds right.. I just got one of these as well for the s15. There are three ports NO, NC, COM. COM goes to the actuator. Boost source goes to NO assuming you're running an internal gate. Make sure all the plastics caps are taken off the solenoid too if you got it new. I ran some new vacuum lines because before my mbc wasn't mounted, but the solenoid needs to be mounted to the body of the car and my existing lines are too short. Download the english manual from www.greddy.com. I read it a few times and it helps with tuning it.