WhatBrake

You will never get $300 for an RB20 turbo; absolutely dreaming. The previous person (dmr) was being very polite. Next time try taking a look at a few posts before you post and can check out how much they are going for. Try halving that price and you may sell it bud. So no/little shart play. How many km's has the turbo done? Might be interested. Cheers, Rhys.

PM sent. Money sent. I look forward to installing the switch! I'm sure everyone wants to know, but still, how long do u think it will be til I get it? I assume in the next batch or two? Cheers, Rhys.

Yeah cheers for that Warren, I have been driving around for the past couple of days with the crank angle re-set to the correct timing. I have still noticed occasionally the engine trying to cut power (I will usually down shift to try give it a kick in the arse) which would still point to the fact that my AFM could still very well be the culprit. It looks like i'm switching the AFM with my mates this weekend and going for a decent drive. Last time this happened it was the AFM and the crank angle buggered at the same time...fun fun Hopefully i'l get it all fixed for a couple of hundred $$ through some mates rates. I just hope I get more than a year and a half out of this lot!! Have a top long weekend buddy. Rhys

Hey Warren, At the start i thought for sure it was my AFM. BUT when the car is running, it seems to be running fine with the current AFM - so if the AFM was truely buggered it should always be not wanting to go over 2500rpm? I switched out my crank angle sensor with one of my mates from his R32 and it seemed to fix the problem for the short amount of time we had to go for a drive. I also believe the crank angle sensor was not put back on the car at the right setting when I had some work done and this could have been the problem all along now that we have come into hotter weather. It is my understanding that the AFM, crank angle sensor and throttle position sensor all work together (obviously) but if one is buggered it can throw up the symptoms of AFM when it's really not as the ECU goes into safe mode. I have already cleaned the AFM and checked the connections. I am getting a new crank angle sensor today for cheap so i'l see if that rectifies the problem. I really wish Nissan had spent a bit more bloody time on their AFM's and crank angle sensors I have already replaced BOTH when I got the car from Japan 2 years ago...fun fun

Hey guys! I have a 1990 R32 GTS4 (RB20DET) and it is really causing me some serious headaches at the moment. The problem i'm having is I will be driving down the road and the engine will just cut power, like you flick a switch, but the car will still run under 2500rpm, usually when I loose power when i pull over on the side of the road the computer will be trying to idle the car from anywhere between 1000rpm-2500rpm revving up and down. The weird thing is it might be fine one afternoon but the next it doesn't want to play at all?? (I have noticed the frequency of it stuffing up cutting power is also increasing) I obviously checked and cleaned the AFM which appears to be fine, and the connections i also believe to be fine. I was thinking it could be the crank angle sensor or perhaps a shot vaccume line somewhere? If anyone has had something like this happen, or has any idea what it could be any help would be VERY MUCH APPRECIATED as I need the car this week (now infact) for work but it's too unreliable to take at the moment so i'm screwed really. Thankyou thankyou thankyou in advance!!! Cheers, Rhys.

Props.

People would be keener had you not listened to one mechanics idea on pricing..Do you want to sell them quickly or just eventually sell them? Anyways goodluck with the sale.

Hey cheers guys! Yeah a few weeks ago I had my fronts changed (same tyres as before) but obviously they have more tread than the ones at the rear. And considering my rears are now due for a change, it seems a new set on the back should resolve the problem. I'l change them out the end of this week and see what happens. Still has been fun driving around in RWD for a few weeks, haha. Take it easy Rhys.

Hey guys I have a R32 GTS4. Recently the ATESSA is playing up and ive already checked the fluid levels. When i'm cruising at say 100 down the freeway it's trying to transfer torque to the front wheels when it should all obviously be going to the back. You can feel the transfer case put some up at the front then stop and try again, meanwhile my front torque guage is getting anywhere up to 15kg's. I'm wondering what the hell is wrong with it? I have been told briefly about the attessa computer flashin up codes to let you know whats wrong, however i'm not hugely familliar with this? Also that if the ATTESSA senses it's stuffing up it is supposed to divert all power to the rear wheels as it's a safety issue and buggers your transfer case, but mine isn't doing that when ive had the fuse in. I think a possible problem is the G-meter is playing up, but i just wanted to know if anyone has experienced this at all in their R32 GTR/GTS4? If so any help would be VERY much appreciated! Cheers guys

Just because an Item scans incorrectly doesn't mean you get it for free anywhere, its is a STORE POLICY they choose to give you that item for free (usually supermarkets) it is not in the Trade Practices Act at all. In regards to Super Cheap having the package at $250 and them not clearly stating that it was a commodore only offer you are entitled to purchase the product for the advertised price. The area of law can be a little sketchy as to whether it is a simple invitation to treat or a specific offer per se. Super Cheap will even give it to you if the price is marked wrong on the shelf; I used to work there a few years ago. What some people have further stated about a business not having to sell a product to any customer if they dont want to is true. If I walked in off the street and picked up a hammer at a hardware shop he doesn't have to sell it to me. Although as I have stated before especially retail franchises have to maintain a customer friendly policy when dealing with us, it is their internal policy that dictates if it is advertised as so it will be honoured or they get disgruntled customers giving them heaps, and possibly loose market share, bad reputation, loose more $$ All in all if they dont specify otherwise it's for all cars! Super Cheap stuffed up and you can take advantage of that if you so wish..cant type anymore Take it easy

Ive got a 32 coupe my best mate has a 32 4Door. The 4 doors still go hard as, corner well, handles pretty much exactly the same. Obviously a 4 door's chassis isn't as tight as the coupe but is hardly if at all noticeable on the street. The 4 door doesn't have really any more leg room in the back as a few people have already mentioned although it's a lot easier getting into the back seats for obvious reasons. If it's a GTS 4 door (non-turbo) i believe they are a 4 stud for the rims. Cheers.

I'l give you $100 for the amp and pay shipping costs to WA on top. Piece of piss to send the amp here via post. Let us know. Cheers.

What a joke. To say regular unleaded at ~91 Octane is equivalent to 98 Octane fuel is that full of it it's not even funny. BP ultimate for me thanks! Cheers,

I'm running 14-15psi but my engine and turbo are low km's. Does it fine, no probs at all. One of my mates has also run his for over a yr at 14-15psi no probs. Wow, even if a turbo lets go after 2 years thats a huge total cost of like $80 a year for a lot more fun. 11-12 is safe as (If it lets go ure turbo is average anyhow) but i'd run 14psi and no be a b!tch. Cheers

RAC 1-2 Page rubbish report and no knowledge on anything thats not a commodore or corolla more like it. Hope all goes well bud.

Hey guys have been on these forums for a while but never done the intro. Name: Rhys Nicknames: Rhysa, Rhysie (the girls), RhysC, Champ, Sick C*nt, Pissed C*nt. Been rollin since: Jan 1986 I drive a: Dark Silver R32 GTS4 soon to have GTR chopping power. I work/study as: Just finished Commerce degree from UWA doin some work @ Real Estate sales rep. Cruise/event attendance rate: Pretty much nothing atm, will be looking for some cruises and get into the club scene and attend some events, extend my sweet crew a little. Music taste: DnB! breakbeat, rock, AUS Rap etc. (I'l appreciate any genre except pop if it's decent) - I hate pop so hard. Hobbies: My car, heading/chillin out with fellow champs, wakeboarding, hockey, Killer stuff in general. Might be of use contacting me for: Buying a house, a cruise, advice on GTS4, Comic Gold.

Hey im sure others refrained, but a Subaru is a Japanese brand. I noticed a few ppl have reccomended RAC vehicle checks, I have had two of these done in the past and they were absolutely pathetic and didn't pick up some MAJOR problems on my sisters car, I would not reccomend them at all. Waste of $150! Use common sense, check the box synchros as the WRX box is renound for being weak as piss when boosted up. The usual list should also be checked: Some of which are- Oil condition (bring a rag- ppl never have them ready) Panels are all in line Chassis rails straight lock the wheels left to right and listen for problems Give it a rev an listen to the note, missing etc? Check for rust including in the boot under the spare tyre/wells Compression test is a good insurance measure but not hugely needed if it all checks out Check to see if it's blowing any smoke especially under load Clearly if its pinging etc. it's not a good sign Check for any oil leaks in engine bay Dumping some gearbox oil is again good insurance but not hugely needed (seein it's a WRX I prob would tho) If it's not too low check the exhaust also listen for an raspyness indicating buggered gaskets etc. Go for a good drive including high speed crusing to scope out any problems with suspension/wheel allign/noises etc. Give the brakes a workout and listen for any ticking or shuddering indicating problems with rotors etc. Get it through some corners again listening for problems Check all the Electrics, A/C, Stereo etc. Have a look at the condition of the current brake pads and tyres Check the plugs for buildup/dirty as If lowered check for scraping of the guards etc Obviously have a look at the service records and if u feel the need give the service centre a call and ask to speak to the guy who usually does the work, ask some qtns. etc etc etc. At the end of the day if you think it might be dodgy it prob is and dont buy it just cos it looks sweet. That should help you buddy. Take it easy

I have a R32 GTS4 Type M, Ive got a nice big FMIC in behind mine at the moment. Fitted it all and modded the bar with a mate, pretty much all u need to do is angle grind (best way even though it sounds dodge) the front vent where it comes inward towards the engine bay. I also removed the small verticle middle segment in that front vent and after some checking (make sure ure cooler is pretty much mounted - which i believe yours to be) you can fit it up. Anyone can do it if you take ure time and arn't a retard on the angle grinder. Mine looks stock and perfectly mounted but theres a big FMIC in there. Hope this helps Cheers.

Last set of R32 gear/handbrake boots purchased by me! Cheers.

Des from Auto FX rolled mine and a mates PERFECTLY, not even the smallest crack in the paint. Pretty cheap from memory when I was searching around and he will come to you and do it. Exact pricing is one call away to ask him, the rest of the work has been done for you. He's a top bloke too. Des 0412034861

Got your car resprayed and ure stoked with it? Post it up with relevant info Cheers.

Des at AutoFx rolled my rear guards and a mates PERFECTLY took him no time, he will also come to you. Good bloke too, he can usually roll them with a day or two notice. Hope this helps. Des: 0412 034 861 Take it easy

Mine was being a bit difficult a while ago and cutting out etc. Was really frustrating, turned out to be a dodgy AFM and crank angle sensor, try swap them out with a mates if u can and go for a decent drive and see if that rectifies it. Goodluck buddy

Do u have any pics of an R32 with the clear indicators on? Might be interested if they look the decent. Obviously dont want to fork out $$ if they look average. Cheers