Mumbo#5

towing it to auto elec in the morning, hopefully they can sort it out

SteveL: Ok thanks for the headsup on the relays. I will have a look tommorow see what this uncovers, hopefully its only a relay *crosses fingers*

Ok, here goes: This morning driving on my way to work I decided to do a bit of a town cruise (was running early for once) anyways the car was running fine, pulled into a parking spot where I work, and what'd ya know the car stalls. I presumed it was just the bov leaking air causing it to intermittently stall, so I tried clutch starting it and no go. Cranked it over a few times, no go. All the lights on the dash are fine, nothing abnormal. I was leaning towards something that triggers the fuel pump. I have checked the injectors for pulse (using one of those thingers with the light) and I have check for spark (bodgy way but we wont go there) Now i know its got injector pulse and spark, I was looking at all the fuses that had anything to do with the ECU/fuel pump setup, nothing blown at all - damn. I then went on to test the power to the pump, now it seems that the pump isnt getting power (there were 5 wires, 2 sender ones and 3 pump ones i think) checked them all while cranking/ign and no power. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Should I just try and externally hook up 12V to the pump to make sure the pump isnt f**ked? Or is there a relay I didnt look at/test while I was at it. If anyone can shed some light on this please help as my car is sitting in my workshop.. well my boss's workshop haha Thanks in advance P.S. If anyone has the wiring diagrams for the pump etc please post or email. edit:shpelling

same problems here.. just make sure your clutch is bled up nicely too.. from all 3 points as this could help. I wouldnt bother with expensive gearbox oil cause if ur synchros are f**ked its only gonna be a waste of money when u can put them towards a synchro set.

assuming its an rb25det oil filter removal is very easy. you should invest in an oil filter claw (the prong weird lookin thing) and a 19mm spanner to go on the end of it. Just tighten and turn.. these will get just about any filter off .. dont bother trying to get it off from underneath either.. it wont happen

i thought my clutch was slippin and carrying on. I bought a brand new clutch (button single) to replace my twin plate one.. pulled out the twin and there was a nut that came loose off one of the pressure plate fingers.. (fitted the new clutch and the carrier for the thrust bearing was wrong anyway, nice waste of an hour ) fixed the twin plate and put it back in (still meat left on the plates strangely enough) and BLED THE COMPLETE CLUTCH SYSTEM! This is a really good idea if your brake fluid is soaking up alot of water (use on of those brake fluid testers to tell). I think the majority of the problem was hydraulic anyways.. *sighs*

hijake: The top part of the manifold is a complete pain in the ass to do while the engine is in the car unfortunately. The bolts on the inner part of the plenum will probably require you to pull of some of the coolant hoses underneath the manifold (this is just what i did) and i used a decent 1/4" ratchet set with many woblies and mini woblies (part on the end of the extension).. its a big pain in the ass but from memory u will need a 10 or 12mm socket, pretty sure its 12 but.. and lots of extensions and heaps of patience.. but you will get there

im with just cars. Im 18 and have a rating 5 i think it was and it was 3.4k to fully insure my skyline. I have just had an accident (not at fault) and the other guy wasnt insured and the process was very easy. Very quick the car was at the repairers in about a day (happened sunday night) they towed the car monday and it was 3 weeks til i got it back. Good service in my view but I guess i wasnt at fault.

well.. ive got an OS giken twin plate (TS2CD) and im pulling it out as its rooted. When it was working i thought it was a great clutch, fair bit of play in the pedal (feels almost stock but heavy). Bites very hard when u let it go. But now its slipping and starting to stick gears. So in goes a 5 puck brass button daiken plate (single). Should be good. Oh and if anyone wants my TS2CD (www.otomoto.com.au) then PM offers. peace

Hi all This is my last desperate cry for a flywheel to get sent up to my direction (cairns) with the bolts. As the topic description states it is a R33 S2 GTS-t. Must have bolts etc so I can get it machined and put it in my car. My twin plate is dying really quickly and I'm killing my gearbox. PM me your price, must be COD and I will pay good money, but dont go over board cause I know what they are worth. Please help me.. PLEASE! Thanks in advance

Hi all This is my last desperate cry for a flywheel to get sent up to my direction (cairns) with the bolts. As the topic description states it is a R33 S2 GTS-t. Must have bolts etc so I can get it machined and put it in my car. My twin plate is dying really quickly and I'm killing my gearbox. PM me your price, must be COD and I will pay good money, but dont go over board cause I know what they are worth. Please help me.. PLEASE! Thanks in advance

well i dont have ABS. But I do have a GFB steal FX bov.. hmm.. interesting

z386 would be a bit small yeH? hahah z145a is the correct one for an RB25 i think.. or it coulda been a 154.. or maybe thats a commodore one.. eh cant think now

you might already know this but you will need 3 phase wired in to operate ya hoist. I have already gotten quotes but its fairly expensive so thats why i have access to 7 hoists in a nice workshop. hehe

haha yeh, im 6ft 2 and do alot of stuff to make me buffer. hahhaha. I've actually had 1 incidient where I got out of the car cause someone threw and empty maccas drink thingo, missed by heaps, but stopped dead in the road (the maccas where everyone hangs out 'hoon night') and you shoulda seen his face.. walked over towards him and asked him politely to not litter and pick it up.. he went white and did it.. hahaha pussy c**ts when someone actually does somethin back <.<

well I'm a mechanic at one of the Midas stores. Its a great place to work, conditions are pretty awesome, and pay is good too. Most of the mechanics there are getting 600+ for 38hours. We have a good boss but, and we are one of the best in the country. It IS a good job, just make sure you really love cars.

hm, might be something worth checking out for me too. I noticed that when I reverse out my driveway I can smell a distinct fuelly smell. Checked and replaced all lines in engine bay to know avail, and the injectors dont seem to be visibly leaking but thats where I was headed next to get them cleaned and checked.. but if theres a line somewhere in the rear that perishes (ive had it on a hoist) I'd like to know where it is!

haha.. damn I hate being a mechanic sometimes.. damn Yeh it runs fine, so I guess it doesnt really matter. And yeh I have the series 2 motor aswell.

but ive only got the standard nissan turbo.. well so I think anyways.. but the only thing is it wasnt doing it before the rebuild (forged rods and pistons + balance). Is it anything to worry about??

haha you guys must be unlucky.. or look like nerds.. jokes. I have never been abused like you blokes, they just stare at my car. I must look scary or something.

hi all Ive just finished rebuilding my engine and got the car back on the road (now its off the road again cause some f**ktard ran into me :@) but I noticed that when I shut the engine off, there is a distinct hissing noise coming from the front left side of the car. I have checked all vacuum lines etc (cause thats what it sounds like) and cant find a fault. Has anyone had the same problem or does anyone know what it could possibly mean? Cheers guys

dave: i have a OS giken twin plate (TS2CD if anyone is interested) in there now, and I want to revert to a single plate as it costs too much to rebuild. I rang jim and he said 300... The cairns heat has nothing to do with my head mate.. its always like that I just need one NOW!#$!@# car comes out of panel shop wednesday and I have the clutch sitting here. hope all goes to plan.

the proper nissan one i got with my rebuild kit (from japan) was extremely thick and looked very well built. But nor have I seen the one from GCG

thanks dangerous dave and i really dont think that they are worth 250 bucks mate i think your the one that is dreaming.

i think they use loctite 504 or something around that number anyway. Its what most engine builders use to seal welsh plugs. I wouldnt really wanna use anything else as its a gamble.