RellikZephyr

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yeah i think cheapest and best way for exhausts nowadays is to get a custom built one is generally cheaper than japanese brands and if the size is ok is just as good RellikZephyr

no not really because the cat itself is the most restrictive part of the exhaust 3" dump pipes would give you heaps of flow (unless you going HUGE power, in which case the cat would a problem) RellikZephyr

yes the better flow has resulted in an increase in boost because the whole system can breathe better when i initially got the car it had a silencer plug in the muffler and i was running about 0.8bar of boost and just from taking out the plug it increased to 1.0bar and got a WHOLE lot louder (no longer legal) so ill be fitting a new muffler or resonator soon so the boys in blue dont bother me and if anyone wants to attempt to gain boost by removing silencer plug from exhaust dont be alarmed when your boost starts playing up and not holding properly (sort of) at the beginning its just the ECU remapping to the new setup (had me worried for a bit ) also most likely got something to do with giving the boost restrictor the flick but really as for your choice of exhaust size it depends on your plans for later on if your going much further get the 4" now if its only mild modding 3" is plenty RellikZephyr

bump plz help RellikZephyr

not sure about that thing with the supra but could be right because the supra is a sequential setup but ive got 3" dump pipes and full 3" straight thru exhaust on my GTR and its great even without a boost controller (will be installing on very soon) it has given me 1 bar off boost and obviously that has given me quite a large increase in power RellikZephyr

the compression loss your talking about is Back Pressure it is needed an NA cars which is why NA dont go with the bigger the better thing but with a turbo the turbo itself provides the necessary back pressure required for the engine (even with no exhaust the gases still hit the turbo and restrict the flow providing back pressure) understand? hard trying to find the words to explain once the gases are through the turbo you want them out of there as soon as possible so the biger the better RellikZephyr

as the title suggests i am chasing a stock turbo for a alfa romeo the model of alfa is GTV 116 coupe 1982 so if anyone could help would be muchly appreciated Thanks RellikZephyr

i remember reading a comparison test on the filters (apexi, blitz, HKS and K&N) and all gained around 14 BHP so difference isnt that much i know apexi was best for both filtration and power gain (best BY FAR for filtration, and 14BHP gain) K&N was second best for filtration and was good power gain at 13.8 BHP and actually HKS was worst by far filtration was SHOCKING and power gain was 13.6 BHP so as for power gain you shouldnt notice that much of a difference RellikZephyr

with a turbo car its as simple as the bigger the better RellikZephyr

so they are stockers cool Thanks RellikZephyr

its 32 and i have already organise to buy it so GRR back off RellikZephyr

i have pulled off my turbos to get them checked and am thinking about replacing them (with R34 N1's) just want to know if my turbos are stockers markings on compressor housing GARRET A/R 42 M24 markings on plate (in middle where shaft is) (stamped in) SK 2289 J (written on) 14411 - 05U20 466071 - 2 Hopefully thats enough info for someone to help Thanks RellikZephyr

do you know what model its for?? R32 or R33 ?? if its R32 im quite interested have tried to ring you no answer Thanks RellikZephyr

no reply?? PM sent rather interested in turbos Thanks RellikZephyr

i am in need of some new turbos for my R32 GTR and i am looking at R34 N1's as they are ball bearing cores and steel wheeled (higher boost ) but i have been offered some r34 series II M-spec turbos for a decent price and i am wondering if anyone knows wether they are steel or ceramic turbine on exhaust side any help would be appreciated Thanks in advance RellikZephyr

are turbos still for sale?? also is the exhaust turbine steel?? Thanks RellikZephyr

turbos still for sale?? Thanks RellikZephyr

thanks will try that Thanks again RellikZephyr

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yep fuses are ok and AFMs are fine also (one broke previously but its fixed now) RellikZephyr

my R32 GTR is idling high approx 2000revs on cold start its about 1600 then as it warms the revs climb now the AAC valve has been changed and the new unit tested and ok the air regulator has been changed and is fine also it has been checked for air leaks and none found hooked up to diagnosis computer thingy and no sensors showing any faults has anyone got any ideas what might be wrong cause im out Also i have just changed my gearbox and all oils replaced (gearbox, front and rear diff, and transfer box and attesa resevior (attesa system bled to specs of HPI mag article)) and now both my HICAS and 4WD lights are on (constantly at idle and itermittenly whilst driving) any ideas on this too? Thanks people RellikZephyr

my R32 GTR is idling high approx 2000revs on cold start its about 1600 then as it warms the revs climb now the AAC valve has been changed and the new unit tested and ok the air regulator has been changed and is fine also it has been checked for air leaks and none found hooked up to diagnosis computer thingy and no sensors showing any faults has anyone got any ideas what might be wrong cause im out Also i have just changed my gearbox and all oils replaced (gearbox, front and rear diff, and transfer box and attesa resevior (attesa system bled to specs of HPI mag article)) and now both my HICAS and 4WD lights are on (constantly at idle and itermittenly whilst driving) any ideas on this too? Thanks people RellikZephyr

i had the same problem and finally found it was actually my air regulator (slightly stuck open) mine was a 32 GTR so i dont know where your air regulator might be but it could be worth checking that out Good Luck RellikZephyr