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UWISSH!

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Posts posted by UWISSH!

    Custom titanium intake

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Sleepergm said:

    Unfortunately not. Was hoping there would be a shop in Australia that I could enlist with the work and then ship the parts in. Thanks 

    Where about are you located exactly?

    you could try contact dahtone racing through facebook as he gets a lot of specialized fab work done and he ships his DBW inlet kits overseas 

    • Thanks 1

    What power can i expect?

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    1 hour ago, morboost said:

    fun fact first there was nissan coils then splitfire, then yellow jacket sent the drawings to china and then came the copies everything after splitfire is ebay. I wouldn't think its needs a tune, but if you want to see what it does and clean it up a guess 180-190rwkw, a z32 maf would be wise to use with your power fc and make a full 80mm intake 14 psi should get close to 200-220rwkw. 

    A tune is always a good idea. Especially when changing injectors and pumps.

    with a stock turbo he won’t make that much 

    R34 GTT Turbo Upgrade - Direct Bolt On (almost)

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    42 minutes ago, silviaz said:

    With the high flow were you referring to something like this? https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/

     

    If so, I just saw their turbo on ebay the highflowed one and it runs at a minimum 15 psi, as opposed to stock which I believe is 7 psi. Sounds like I'd need a tune either way?

    Why are you so against getting your car tuned? Surely you would want it to run better than factory?

    recaro cs sportster feedback using recaro rails ?

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

    Hmm I don't think there is anything to be concerned about, but I doubt me saying that will convince you. 

    I also doubt anyone with these seats will reply in this thread (at $6000ish for a pair I'd be surprised to find anyone running these seats in an R chassis). 

    So my solution is, take measurements yourself and see what you think. Measure up your factory seats and compare with this - 

    recarosportster-sizeguide_2048x.jpg

    All this will tell him is how big his factory seats are compared to the new recaros.

    its the seat rails that will determine how high or low the new seats will sit.

    Freshly broken in R32 GTR not making any power

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    14 minutes ago, anicenero86 said:

    Congrats on being experts on ONE chassis. Now bow down to GM and Ford for even branching out to your continent. Anyway, I'm not going to go tit for tat with you. Got some ex-military buddies out there in AU and don't want to give off the impression that I dislike Australians. Twin scroll single conversions are not the end all be all because some dude from Motive who makes videos said so. 

    U will probably find that the majority of people on here think he is f*#kwit

    • Like 4

    Freshly broken in R32 GTR not making any power

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    51 minutes ago, anicenero86 said:

    Um, yeah. No. I have GTIII-SS turboes. Just dynoed on Sunday. 446rwhp/387ft-lbs @ 18psi/1.24bar. Very fun to drive. Busted my hump putting her together. Impressed by the turboes. The JB and single turbo nonsense Australians are infamous for needs to die on the vine.

    We have only been playing with gtrs for 30 years and build the best in the world, what would we know?

    • Like 3

    R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    While the engine is out, it would be best advised to upgrade the front diff while the engine is out.

    I would suggest that u also fit a larger sump at this point.

    you want to do all that you possibly can to the engine while it’s out to avoid having to pull it out again to do things u missed.

    there will also be heaps of small little things that will add up in price like gaskets and hoses that u won’t really think of until the engine is out and start re assembly 

    R32 GTR clutch (twin plate va tripple plate)

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    6 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

    I would not run a multi plate clutch on a streetcar unless it's your only option power wise. I had no other option and run an xtreme 230mm twin plate. If ever a company comes out with a single plate that can handle my power, I'm jumping back to a single that same day.

    The noise of a multi disc clutch isn't pleasant. 

     

     

    I never had an issue with my super copper mix twin competition clutch.

    was absolutely great to use as a daily for over 2 years

    RB25DET Help.

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Do you already have a good full exhaust system?

    will you need new coil packs?

    cam gears?

    also think about a new clutch to hold the extra power.

    what injectors and fuel pump are you going to use? 
    what fuel will you be running?

    upgraded bov? and waste gate if going externally gated. Extra fab work and lines for said gate

    thats just a couple things to take into consideration.

    • Like 2

    Dyno Results for HKS GT III - SS Sports Turbo - Twins

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    18 minutes ago, GTScotT said:

    As said I was building the car in stages and got side tracked. The 8374 went on ahead of time when the factory twins bust a couple of gaskets. 
     

    The point is I was never chasing 400kw+ and it doesn’t seem like the cost benefit is there with this setup. The 8374 let’s the 26 rev past 8 as it should, but without a stroker or V cam it doesn’t come on well enough. -7s on the other hand will come on well enough and make over 300kw on an unopened engine, so really is it worth doing all the fancy stuff?

     

    Where I’m at right now is; probably not. 

    Again if that was your power target why did u choose a turbo that is suited to 500+kw?

    u didn’t need 8374 to rev past 8k when I originally had 2530s back in 2009 I was able to rev my engine to 9k happily.seems like u had no proper guidance from the start and I’m not surprised that ur unhappy with how a 800hp+ turbo is driving at only 15psi

    • Like 4
    • Haha 1

    Dyno Results for HKS GT III - SS Sports Turbo - Twins

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    34 minutes ago, GTScotT said:

    It’s simply where I stopped at the time. I was developing the car in stages and then bought a GR Yaris, so the GTR stayed at 1 bar longer than expected. 
     

    As said, and to the point, the power at that level isn’t disappointing.. Its what it’s like to live with if not wringing it’s neck. The turbo comes on easily and drives well, has gotten me in a lot of trouble in the 3 years it’s been on the car, but again the standard R34 units make similar power and do it better in every way. 
     

    I highly doubt me turning it up 10psi will make the driving experience better aside from the fact it will be a lot faster. 10psi more boost won’t make the turbo come on 1000rpm sooner, and another 5-10k on a V cam to do what R34 bolt ons do seems ridiculous (my engine is completely standard).


    I simply don’t want big power and converting to the single has showed me I actually just want a GTR in its natural GTR format with a few bolt ons. So I really understand the tone of the minority defending twins in this thread. I understand because I’ve done the thing and wish I didn’t. 

    That 8374 was an absolute terrible choice for a complete stock engine. Who on earth told u that it was a good idea?

    • Like 3
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