BADR33

i just stripped down a rb25de outa a r33 and it does have all the oil and water fittings on the side of the block. there just blanked off with bolts. so you can turbo then. youll just need everything off a rb25det turbo

your talking about off boost driving for econimical cars. whats the point of having a turbo then? that would be boring as driving if you cant go over 3grand or so. my car(rb20e) i rev its nuts off all the time and im stil getting 10k+ a ltr. not so sure how the rb30de is going to be tho. turbos and N/As cant be compared really. turbos arnt that great unless your wanting lots of power. i love the feeling of hitting boost when iv been in my mates cars. but then i get back in my car and even tho its way slower i still enjoy the smooth power delievery and the sound turbos can be unforgiving as in when your driving and when your modding them if you make a simple mistake they start detonationg and other stuff. im guessing thats what he means in the end its each to there own. and each has there advantages and disadvantages

hi guys, im in the process of building a rb30de that runs vvt and has 10.5 compression using rb25de pistons. parts im using: rb30e short block $100 from a wreakers rb25de head that has been rebuilt and modifyed to fit rb30 and run VVT $1050 all up (i got lucky with the guy RIPS selling the part that he was going to use on his drag car) the mods were $500 with a braided line to run vvt. rb25de series one bought for donar parts $500 with flywheel. i am using the inlet manifold, injectors?, loom, coils, cam covers, cam wheels, oil pump, cam belt covers, alternator, crank pully, plus some other misc bits off the motor. rb30 water pump $110 (shouldnt have bought off trademe ) rb25de pistons 2nd hand $100 (didnt feel like stripping the motor down and wanted to keep some resale value* for gearbox im planning on using a rb20det or rb25de. but i have found a rb20det one that was rebuilt not long ago for $750 so i will probly get that. not too sure on what clutch im going to use. i have relocated the cam belt tensionar to the suggest spot and i will use the dyco cambelt along with 2 rb25de tensionars. things i have had done to the block so far is only an acid dip that cost $55 but in the next week or 2 i will be taking it to a engine reconditioners to get the crank ballanced and new bearings along with the rb25de pistons swapped on to the rb30e rods, a hone and possibly a decking, new head gasket and the head attached with new studs as i dont have any. i will also get the injectors reconditioned if they are big enough for what i require. i will attempt to do the rest of the work myself and with the help of a mate. and i will do most of the painting and polishing myself for running in im planing on using rb25de ecu and then once its run in i will get it tuned with a GTSlink plug in ecu. this is about how it looks now feel free to make some comments or reccomendations. some of these things may change once i talk to th engine reconditionars about it. oh and excuse any of my bad spelling, thanks, geoff

well so far i have most of everything that i will need to get it up and running. you can see the difference in rod lengths of rb30 and rb25. i just need to get the bottom end rebuilt and the head put on then i can finish the rest. it has a braded hose running from the head to just next to the oil filter. i will post some pics up when i have the basic block assembled. i am only missing 3 major components, gearbox, clutch and computer plus ill need custom extractors. it should be good when its all up and running. ill use a plug in GTS link once it is run in. hopfully completed and in car by end of january to mid febuary

if your exhaust is 2.5" factory its probly crush bent. somthing that could make your guys lifes easyer with r33s you could buy the turbo guys factory exhuast as they are 2.5" mandrel bent from the factory. i have one on my car even tho its rb20e.. but that will be gone for a rb30de soon. lol. yeah N/As need some back pressure as it helps the scavanging effect. a muffler like a flowmaster one would probly sound good. i will replace my stock rear muffler when i get the new motor put in as this one is a little rattly and doesn't make much sound. plus i don't get the typical skyline backfire

some non turbos are good. some are not(rb20e grr) im building myself a rb30de with vvt and i should be able to beat rb20det powerd skylines that arnt too hard out modded. boosted is good if you want high power cheepish. but they do cost alot more to run with gas and insurance i get sick of everybody asking me why im not going turbo. but then how meny people these days build a rb30de? i know of atleast 3 of my mates who are in the process of building rb30dets with huge turbos like gt35/40s or somthing and there aiming for 300rwkw so i want to be differnt.

rb20 is pretty much the same as a rb25 for the extractor threads. you can buy them in NZ easy as. there is a parts site that is listed in the other thread that exports extractors. prehaps you aussies need to organise some group buy on them?

have you tryed a seach? there is a thread about extractors for a rb25de on the 1st page of the na forums. have a look on there to find a little more info i paid 275nz dollas i think from memory for some COBY extractors yes they are well worth the money and you will feel the difference

i dont think you would superchage it as that would take away the point of having 6 throttle trumpets. and you dont put 1 pod on it. you have 6 little airfilters it would be trick tho. i know they do it with v8s and those toyotas and they sound pretty mint so im sure a N/A skyline would sound crazy!!

thats pretty trick. if it was cheep enough i would use it on my rb30de but first of all i gota get it all together i would see why they would do that. you dont need a turbo to have fun

check out the thread N/A mods there is a website said on the 2nd page its like www.partsco.com or somthing similar. you need to do the search in the NA section only to get the best results and include rb25de in it

damn thats hot sounding. i wish mine sounded that good. but ill wait on picking a new muffler once i put my rb30de in i hope mine sounds just as sexy as that does. does yours drone on the motorway?

nice dude. good luck with what ever you do decide to do. my mate is bugeting 10k for his rb26 in to his gts. i had also seen a 4 or 5ltr v8 chev in to a r33 coupe. damn it lookd crazy.. but it had a huge assd bug catcher so you wouldnt have been able to see much. haha but he said somthing like 20k had gone in to developing it

i have heard that you can also fit rb20de heads.. i saw one on the NZ trademe auction site. you could put a lumpy cam in if you want to keep it single cam. but going twin cam will give you a good increase in power and it will pull higher up in the rpms i suggest you get the bores checkd out when you take the head off. you could spend the $$ and get it rebuilt then you would know its reliable

yeah thats tru. thats why im building up a rb30de. that is almost unheard of in NZ cus everybody just builds rb30dets.. then i get the comment why dont you put a turbo on it.. so annoying. i have a mate that is putting a rb26 in to his r32 gts using a 25t gearbox. my other mate just put a rb20det in to his gts and he is keeping it auto and with a single spinner diff. if you want to be differnt you could super charge your motor? put an sr20det in? or do you want to keep the sound of the rb?

yeah thats tru. thats why im building up a rb30de. that is almost unheard of in NZ cus everybody just builds rb30dets.. then i get the comment why dont you put a turbo on it.. so annoying. i have a mate that is putting a rb26 in to his r32 gts using a 25t gearbox. my other mate just put a rb20det in to his gts and he is keeping it auto and with a single spinner diff. if you want to be differnt you could super charge your motor? put an sr20det in? or do you want to keep the sound of the rb?

yeah with a turbo de you will beat them off the line because you have higher compression. sure you cant run as much boost but what is so great about running high boost? running 6psi in the turbo is somthing like 10psi in the motor. not sure tho. i would go with the rb25det gearbox. is almost as strong as a gtr and you dont need to modify it. to run rear wheel drive. i would definatly have to say just turbo your car as it is now. nobody will know the difference really from a rb25det and a rb25de with turbo just by looking at it?

all good dude. i have a 97 r33 gts manual 4dr with the mighty old rb20E!! haha. im just starting work on my rb30de build. i could go turbo cus my rb30 block has the fittings there. but i love N/A and turbos are just becoming so commen and insurance is a killer. i have a simialr set up to that car with the sound clip. just im using a factory rear muffler off a gts25t so i think my car is that great sounding from behind but the intake sound is what gets me all the looks plus it looks bling as cus i used aluminum pipe and i polished it. autos arnt that bad. my mate just put a rb20det in to his gts auto. and he says that he floors it and when it changes gear there is no turbo lag it just keeps pulling. yeah keep researching. do searches on here and on www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz on there you don't get shot down as bad as you do on here. lol

atleast your car has a rb25de.. you dont need a turbo to get the stright 6 sound. turbos do give the awesome skyline sound but i dont think the cost of owning a turbo justifys it. gts-4 r33s are pretty rare from what i have seen. is yours manual or auto? an intake kit will help your car make the good sound of a straight 6. ever thought of replacing the factory black pipe from the AFM to the throttle body with some metal pipe? your car will scream. larger exhaust piping plus some free flow mufflers will help you get that sound. or just chuck some coby resonators in there. this is a link to a sound file that screamin'_skyline car that has a very simialr set up as what i discribed http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/jswright/screamin.html click on launch to see how it sounds when taking off

yeah coby extractors are good. i have them on my gts and you do feel the power gain. they do look stock. especially if you dont heat wrap them. the bright orange paint peals off like straight away haha all i can say is it must suck to live in aussy NZ's got the mintest car laws. BOVs are legal, no cat needed, no real noise law, no power law thingy. its not perfect but its so much better then your laws

extractors are worth doing. if you do them with a cat back exhuast then you get the best gains. pipe sizing for N/As are pretty much rb20e/de 2.25" and rb25de is 2.5" that is mandrel bent. when i put my rb30de in i will keep my current 2.5" mandrel bent exhuast that i currently have on my rb20e. its far to big to be good for any low down power

that sucks that your car has broken. im building the same motor. anyway that i can get some specs of what parts you used and the cost to get the head modifyd to fit the block? *edit* i just found your old thred with the specs of what you did. good work. im gona probly be spending 800-1000 on my head tidying it up and replacing bent valves and getting the vvt set up to work did you get the chance to dyno it? thanks, and good luck with fixing it

hey there. sorry havnt been on SAU for a while. my msn is grub_man(at)Hotmail(dot)com *i have put them in brackets becuase i got a friendly PM telling me that there a bots that go all over the net and send you spam um the cefiro diffs are reasonably common. they did come out in both non turbo and turbo cefiros. they have a little orange sticker on the side saying somthing like visious LSD or somthing. finding one is hard because they use them in drifters. my diff bolted stratight on. all that was needed was the back plate swapped over and new fluid. i have been told you could modify other skyline LSD or S14 diffs to fit but its more work because you will have to change the half shafts if you can only get hold of a 5x1 diff. or modify the diff mounts for the S14. ah bought my rb30 block for 100bux today geoff

my r33 with a rb20e the factory diff ratio was 4.0:1 the way to tell what ratio your diff is is look on the blue plate on the fire wall. you will see somthing like RC40=4.1:1 my gts also doesnt have hicas i have put a 4.3:1 diff in my car. so the speedo reads higher then the actuall speed im doing by about 5kph. you can get your speedo recalibrated to suit if your worryed about it. you could get away with a gts25t diff as i think they are 4.1. but then you would need to change the shafts that connect to the diff. its a bit of extra work but then your speedo wouldnt be out by much

hi, in my r33 gts i swapped the diff with a nissan A31 cefiro LSD. it bolted right in. the only thing that had to be changed was the back plate with my old one off the single spinner. have a look under your car to see your bolt pattern. if the bolts are in pairs it is 3x2 and if they are alone its 5x1 if you can only find r32 gtst diffs you should be able to get away with swapping the diff and half shafts. does your car have ABS? if yes then you need to get a diff out of a ABS car. but if it doesnt have ABS i have been told that it doesnt matter. this is an awesome thing to do to your car. it makes it in to a totaly new car. and handles perfect. mine cost me $300nzd all up to buy(local internet auctionsite) and get installed. you will notice the differnece on corners especially under acceleration. sure you cant really do burnouts because the diff isnt good for that. but thats a stupid thing to be doing. i would aslo class it as a safty feature as your car will grip better and be less likly to lose the back end. and if you do its much easyer to catch