QRI05E

***URGENT UPDATE*** Dyno Day : 10/03/2007 Hey guys, I just got a call from J.E.M J.E.M Dyno Day has been moved to the 10/03/2006 due to last minute urgent request. Adam was called to go to Perth for the National Drift Comp 2007. And the weekend after he will be attending Power Cruise 2007 so the next available day is 10/03/2007. On behalf of Just Engine Management I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience and hope this official date will be okay for everyone. Regards, Sarkis

***URGENT UPDATE*** Dyno Day : 10/03/2007 J.E.M Dyno Day has been moved to the 10/03/2006 due to last minute urgent request. Adam was called to go to Perth for the National Drift Comp 2007. And the weekend after he will be attending Power Cruise 2007 so the next available day is 10/03/2007. On behalf of Just Engine Management I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience and hope this official date will be okay for everyone. Regards, Sarkis

Still going till end of this month...

UPDATE: List has been updated

Anodizing will only work for (raw or polished) aluminium part.

Hahaha damn right! even all the piping will look stock under the bonnet

Hey guys, I finally got a chance to pick up my FMIC kit from the anodizers. And here is the result: Note: The white-ish stuff on the core is only residue and will come of with light brushing or when driving. Im really pleased with the result and cant wait to get it fitted next saturday... Cheers

UPDATE: R34 SMIC + Shroud SOLD Pending Payment

Not unless someone wants just the AFM then we can work something out cheers

I got my FMIC kit anodized at http://www.anodizers.com There the only place in NSW who anodize car parts... Cost me $135 + GST = $148.50 Still a good price in my opinion... Im picking up the FMIC kit tomorrow... will post some pics Cheers

See you all there.... got minimum 15 cars so far...

All PM's replied guys...

Yep totaly agree that EMS is excellent value for budget, however sequential injection is more important then people think. It is important for fine tuning each injector individualy. We all know that no 2 injectors flow EXACTLY the same therefore better fuel ecomomy and idle will be achieved with a sequential injection ECU. Cheers

EMS would be my second pic from Haltech, for their price they still do a pretty good job. cant go wrong for an EMS Stinger supply, fitted and tuned for $1850.... P.S Its a shame to see such a reputable company go down like that. Especially a japanese company. Im glad i managed to find a decent PFC with h/c at an amazing price (Thanks Ben) Cheers

Both the EMS Singer DOES NOT support sequential injection. And only has 4 injector outputs. Not made for a 6 cyl. Recommendations: - 2nd Hand Apexi PFC - Haltech E11v2 (Plug & Play) - EMS 8860 (last resort) Cheers

Upcoming Parts For Sale Intro: Hey guys, my car is in the process of being upgraded with stage 2 mods and will be completed in 1 - 2 weeks and I will have heaps of parts for sale. Just thought to advertise them now so i can put them aside for who ever wants them. R34 SMIC + Shroud (Excellent Condition) Supports approx 220rw/kw Price: SOLD Pending Payment R33 SMIC + Piping Price: $50 + Postage RB25DET (R33 S2) Injectors (75,000kms and were cleaned 2000km ago) Price: $190 + Postage R33 S2 ECU (Manual) Price: $150 + Postage R33 S2 AFM + Plug Price: $100 + Postage Hybrid Turbo VG30 comp / RB25 ex - Steel Wheels rated at 14psi (approx 70,000kms from SSS automotive cost $550) Excellent upgrade for any R32 GTST without the lag! Will produce approx 210 - 220rw/kw on Rb25. Bought this turbo just for the OP6 ex housing (pics soon) Price: $350 + Postage R33 S2 Fuel Pump (Excellent Condition - 75,000km) Price: $50 + Postage Turbotech Boost controller Price: $20 + Postage R33 S2 Factory Dual Boost Solenoid Price: $45 + Postage Additional info: Pics and more info will be up as soon as I get the parts back in a week or so, but you guys know what all these look like anyway... The R33 SMIC is already available and the R34 SMIC will be available next week...Payment method will be direct deposit or cash on pickup (western sydney) Please PM me for any inquiries Regards, Sarkis

Hint: you can use a one way valve when tapping into the BOV or manifold pressure line, this will eliminate the vacuum issue.

Thats to relocate your actuator line... the stock SMIC piping has a nipple where it originally connects to,,, the new piping does not have one (i have no idea why) so you use the vac hose and T piece to tap into the BOV line... Cheers

List Updated: Only few spots left so get in while you can!

Hey fellas, just a quick update... Today I spoke to the anodizer and he told me something quite interesting... When anodizing a FMIC, the internal part of the core and end tanks are anodized too meaning this will aid in cooling... Black is known to radiate as well as absorb heat therefore when you have an internal temperature greater then the ambient temperature, heat transfer will be outwards. Micks Motorsport gets all the FMIC's for their big HP cars anodised for that reason. Pics Coming soon... Cheers

You are the first person to NOT want traction I got 18 x 9 with Nankang 265 and i got no traction when i hit second... could also be due to my camber... Your tyres may be running low in pressure causing them to grip more... make sure the pressure is high enough 35 - 38psi

On the way home from work i tried to take more observations regarding the vibration... and it seems to start as low as 30km/h but barely noticeable and is most audible at 60km/k. It is mainly felt a the brake/clutch/accelerator peddles as well as foot rest… the vibration variates in frequency for eg. Sometimes it vibrates: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Othertimes: ____ _ _ _ _ ________ _ _ _ _ ________ Or _______ ________ _______ ________ ________ It’s the kind of hollow sound that a tyre may make if there’s a bubble on the tread but with extensive inspection the 2 front tyres are as new.

Hey guys, in the past few months i have notices a very slight vibrato-hollow-humming noise from the front (possibly passenger side) of my car at only 60 - 70kms/h any speed above that or under the noise and vibration and noise disappears. This slight vibration can be felt in the steering and peddles but is almost not noticeable. I have tried the following: Accelerate to 60 – 70kms, put car in neutral and coast Accelerate to 60 – 70kms and hold the clutch in to see if its flywheel related Accelerate to 60 – 70kms and try sudden braking My wheel alignment is spot on The wheels are ballanced Nothing has helped... One thing i think maybe related is that about 3 months ago i got the disc's machined and new brake pads put in and my car has also developed a "slapping" sound (can be quite loud at times) frpm thr front passenger side when i apply the breaks firmly... I wont go back to that mechanic ever again cause he just seemed too dodgy for my liking... What can it be?? Regards, Sarkis

Glad to hear it was a relatively easy fix... hope you get the power you were aiming for... Cheers

From all my research and advise of others: Z32 AFM supports approx up to 350rw/kw Q45 AFM supports approx up to 450rw/kw Sounds like your AFM is dying/needs a clean or something else is not right. Regards, Sarkis