StretchGSK

So I managed to grease all the relevant tracks and pivots and the window is now working OK. Was so much faster it highlighted that the passenger side needed doing as well. Also got the plastic sheet back on OK. Thanks for the input gents

GTRsean , on closer inspection you are correct, there is space to unbolt and remove the mechanism/motor. Do you think the plastic sheet that is glued to the door skin is really needed when putting the door card back on? But more importantly it looks like cleaning and greasing the tracks for the window is going to sort the issue out, so hopefully no need for a new motor. I will confirm after the weekend.

If she wasnt my pride and joy that be me an option... Any other suggestions?

Hi My drivers side electric window motor seems to be on the way out so I thought I would open it up and check if a DIY fix is possible. The panel/trim came off without to much bother but getting to the motor and mechanism seems to be impossible due to it being behind the inner metal door skin which does not seem to unbolt and in fact seems to be spot welded to the outer door skin. Does anyone have any advice on how to get the motor and mechanism out? Thanks Stretch

Hi Any chance of there being a Nismo MFD up for grabs?

And one of the guys involved with that site (John) is also super helpful and friendly

Hi Yes it appears to be a supported feature, it may depend on what version you have though. I have a doc that explains how to set it up etc. Don't think there is much issue with it damaging the motor as it is very similar to a rev limiter.

Hi I have an F-CON V pro in piggy back mode setup to use MAP. The AFM are still in situ. (not for any reason other than I have not got any delete pipes made up yet.) I am also running in piggy back mode to allow me to retain the factory key immobilizer. The problem is I now see incorrect/false injector duty cycle readings on my MFD. For example I see 99%-100% where in reality the injectors are peaking at about 85% as shown in the F-CON Power Writer output while on the dyno. I am pretty sure this incorrect reading is due to the fact that the factory ECU is still supplying info to the MFD and may have something to do with an erroneous signal from the AFM's? What I would like to know is what can be done to make the MFD reading correct? Can you send a signal from the F-CON to the MFD? Surely I am not the first person to have this issue? Thanks Stretch

The Camp2 is an interface between your ECU and the display. May be helpful to post a link to the Nismo display you are referring to.

I know exactly the two exhausts you are looking at ;-) The Nismo Weldina system is pretty rare but I would suggest the Ti system is way better value. I have a Amuse Ti pipe that only has one muffler and it does drone quite a lot. But it really is not a problem for me (even the wife does not complain) as it is a weekend/touring car. We did 1600km over easter if that shows how manageable the drone is. As for total Db, I have still got to get that checked, but we are still quite lucky over here in NZ Here is a quick vid of what mine sounds like Bear in mind and equal length front pipe makes a huge difference to how smooth the sound is.

Would be good to "sign up" for this Need another 100 or so before they translate it. http://jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131171/CATID=24/SUBID=273/ID=691/SID=63076686/productdetails.html

Hi Noticed this official Getrag conversion kit on the Nismo site this morning. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/mission/getrag.html I am pleasantly surprised to see they are still developing items for the R32/33/34

I have first dibs on the canards john-e boi That ok with you Rick?

Have you heard from GUN_METAL_GTR32 yet? Can you let me know what you would want for the canards so we don't wast any time.

The boost curve is pretty much identical except the boost does not drop off as much

Quick update after a visit to my tuner. First the boost response was not improved as the dyno plot shows the boost peaking at the same RPM....amazing what sound and your mind can make you think. I guess this was to be expected considering the pipes were the same diameter. The AFR had leaned out in the top part of the rev range. Front pipes and cat back exhausts combined to make the AFR a full point leaner and he could hear some detonation. So I think the $$ to getting the tune checked was well spent On the plus side after a tweak to the tune there was in increase of 21 KW which I was not expecting at all add that to how she sounds now and I am very happy! Thanks for the input from those that replied. Stretch

Guess I should have assumed as much Any chance of you selling them on their own? If not could you tell me where you got them from?

Have you got any pics of those actual canards fitted to an R34? Do you know what make they are? Are you willing to sell them separately? Thanks

Edit after seeing this is a question not a statement

Not on a R34 GTR it's not...

Please can you supply the part number for the injectors. Thanks

Thanks for the reply, I do have an F-Con so a re-tune is possible. I am just not sure what sort of physical changes it can cope with on its own? Andre at Speedtech looks after my baby but I must pop in to Shred some time

Hi I have installed a used Mines front pipe that i got a really good deal on. I was mainly looking for a little exhaust note tuning for that Mines sound. I was surprised what a difference the equal length front pipe made to the exhaust note :-) It is an older version with 60mm at the turbo's into 70mm. As this is the same sizes as the OEM front pipe I don't expect much performance gain. However boost response feels improved. Is it possible or is it just the smoother sound tricking me? Will admit I was enjoying the sound to much to take note of actual RPM vs boost There is no flex joint in the pipe, are there any issues with not having one? Lastly if the pipe diameter is the same would I need a dyno run to be sure AFR is still ok? In fact can anyone point me at some good resource for understanding what sort of changes require a re-tune? Thanks Stretch

There is but i still needs to be translated. Would be a great help if you added you name to this list http://jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131171/CATID=24/S...uctdetails.html

Real long shot but did you ever sell this?