T-Rex

I found the Nismo Getrag transmission conversion http://www.nengun.com/nismo/getrag-transmission-conversion-kit Its too pricey to buy new unless your building a show car, but it seems it is quite easy to do. Use an R34 gearbox, transfer case, front prop shaft, transmission cross-member, transmission mount, and clutch. Then for the rear prop shaft use the front section off an R34, and the rear section from an R32. The transmission tunnel needs hammering for clearance on both sides, only about 10mm either side, not a big deal in my opinion. Im thinking it could be done for 6-7 grand depending on the cost of the gearbox second hand.

Thanks Beer Baron, looks like I will get the R33 box then and probably the Street Master OS Giken clutch. I have to email RHD to see why the checkout price is about 9-10% more than the shown yen price

Just another quick question, the S3 R33 gearbox mentioned, does it have the same bellhousing as the late model R32 pull type gearbox?

Funny you should mention the ATS/Carbonetic clutch, that's THE clutch i ran in my WRX. It was BEYOND acceptably noisy you had your foot on the clutch. When i put it in i noticed it didn't come supplied with the release bearing so i went to a bearing supplier and got what he thought would be the correct bearing. I'm in two minds as to why it was so noisy, whether it was the wrong bearing or just the clutch. My brother has a twin plate metal OS Giken in his WRX and it makes the same noise only about 30% as audible.

Thanks, I don't find the new GTR boxes expensive, even the 6 speed Getrag is cheap compared to the Subaru 6 speed. I did think of the Nismo clutch, i think they are about $2800 which is more than i wanted to spend but i will definitely keep it as an option.

Thanks Duncan, I will check with them to see if that's the case.

The car has twin 2860-7's producing 330kw at the rears, so basically at its max safe limit. As far as im aware the stock box should cope well enough at that power level? I know how to treat a gearbox well, I had a twin plate clutch in a 5 speed WRX making over 200kw and didn't break it, and they are notoriously weak Since I have owned the car i have not enjoyed driving it as it has never been trouble free. At this stage all i am looking to do is get it reliable and fun to drive and then modify from there. If future upgrades require a strengthened gearset then i will do it then, but that wont be for a few years. At the same time i'm doing the gearbox im putting in a new clutch, the OS Giken Street Master caught my eye, do you know anything about them? It seems they are a new offering and there's not much info on them available. They come to $2150 delivered. http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-street-master-clutch-kit-twin-metal-hard-with-converter-kit-64963

Thanks but no, I have had the worst luck with second hand parts so I'm willing to pay more or "get ripped off" to be safe. Bought a set of $3500 coil-overs once (bought for $1500), I was showed a reciept showing they were purchased 6 months prior, they looked spotless.. Turned out all but 1 had to be rebuilt at $650ea. But here's the kicker! The Australian company wouldn't supply parts as they weren't bought from an "authorised" dealer.. enough said really!

That's what i was thinking.. I will get in contact with them when i'm ready to purchase and go from there i think.

By the sounds of that i will take it as it comes.. New box from RHD Japan is $2850 delivered, plus taxes i suppose.

Interesting.. I will have to contact RHD and see what price they can do as they don't have them listed on the site. In terms of taking the box out, if using a hoist would you suggest dropping the motor and gearbox together or just doing the gearbox on its own? I will be doing a few things like engine mounts, hoses, etc at the same time.

That sounds like a good option. Do you know if the final gear ratio will remain the same or similar? Im pretty green when it comes to GTR's and what fits and what doesn't. I come from a background of WRX's..

I believe that would be the case. Last time i checked i could get one delivered through RHD Japan or Nengun, can't remember which one, for about $3000 delivered. But i am happy to support an Aussie company if they can do a good price.

My 1994 R32 Gearbox is very tired, the return springs are worn out or loose or something, the synchro's in a couple of the gears are worn out, and there is a horrible bearing noise or something that i havn't been able to locate and i think its also coming from the gearbox. So im looking at replacing it with a brand new standard item, im not at all interested in buying second hand or even restored. I thought about rebuilding it with with PPG's or similar but i don't want to spend the $$$ where i don't have to. Is there a known preferred place to buy brand new? The only place i know about is justjap.com and they have them for $3300. Are there any other Australian suppliers i should try? Thanks, Shaun

Hey mate i have a similar issue in my 32 GTR, but it does it in 4th gear also. It sounds a lot like if the exhaust was vibrating on the chassis, but its not. At this stage im lead to believe it is a bearing problem from within the gearbox. If i load up the box by accelerating or holding a constant speed the noise is almost non existent, as soon as i let off the throttle the noise appears. I have done a lot of searching myself and my next move is to remove the gearbox, get it inspected and parts replaced as necessary. cheers

My 32 GTR is also making a thud noise and when i looked under i noticed one of the rear cradle bushes was stuffed so i would check there first. I have not changed mine yet, but im 90% sure that's the problem with mine.

Liberty transmissions do not make a street transmission for GTR's or any Nissan, i asked them today. Only option is their race box with adapter to fit as seen on their website. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news..

Stock cams and has cam gears making 330rwkw on 21psi according to dyno graph i got when i bought the car. I really do believe there is a exhaust leak as i do often get fumes in the cabin! I love my car but at its age (94 GTR) i think almost every wearing part needs replacing lol. I have replaced 21 coolant lines so far, i didn't know they had 21 coolant lines..

No issues with hijacking here, any information is good information. I thought i would put my 2cents towards the twin versus single. The twins are so cramped, even with standard turbo's its a PITA to work on the car is you have any issues on that side. With a single you have pretty good access. Also with a single you have more room to design a high flowing dump pipe, possibly allowing for bigger power with minimal loss to response. I have 2860-7 on my GTR and im hoping there is something wrong like an exhaust leak because it is not very responsive at all. I would guess im getting 14.5psi after 4000rpm and 22psi after 5000rpm.. I like to work on my car myself but i feel its not possible with the twin setup, you need a hoist to do it safely.

The above graph is on 98 pump fuel. Using a factory STi semi-closed deck block. They have been proven to handle 350-400kw under race conditions with no failures at all. Comparing the 2 graphs i'd say up until 4500rpm or so the WRX would feel much faster, and given their shorter gears it would probably feel faster altogether (from my own experience of owning both WRX and now GTR). Cubic capacity is cubic capacity i guess, it doesn't matter so much that one has 2 more cylinders. Ps. The Cosworth engine package ranges from $15,000-$26,000 depending on spec, so its not an apples to apples comparo

Good info there guys. I guess people with different cars are often after different setups. With WRX's its pretty common for people to want 18-20psi between 3500-4500rpm. And that isn't really considered laggy. The dyno graph below is of a Cosworth built 2.5l engine (as good as you will get) with a GT35r with .82. This is one of the best graph's i have seen in terms of spool versus power output.

Why do most people running GT35/40's use the .82A/R and not the 1.06A/R? Reason im asking is i come from a WRX past and even on the 2.5L setups they almost always use the 1.06A/R because the .82 seems to suffer from choke. It surprised me even more that those who have done the RB30 upgrade even use the .82! Can someone enlighten me?

Yeah that's fair enough, if im to stay with a 5 speed im likely to buy one new, thats why i was thinking along the lines of a 6 speed conversion as a second hand one is only a few hundred more than a new 5 speed, there's also the choice of PPG gears for the 5 speed which is another option, I believe the 6 speed is the better option IF it isn't ridiculously difficult. Living 350km from melb doesn't make it easy to leave your car at a mechanic for a week or two..

I have done quite a bit of searching on here and didn't come up with any explanations on how it was done, and whether it was easy or worth it compared to strengthening the standard 5 speed. So if anyone has done it, or had it done by a workshop let me know. I am in the situation where it looks like my 5 speed has some internal problem, whilst driving at or over 100km/h if i let my foot off the throttle there is a horrible rattle sound from the gearbox area, strange thing there is no noise when i have my foot on the throttle. The noise gets worse as speed increases.. I dont want to buy a second hand 5 or 6 speed, i prefer to buy new unless a very low KM box can be sourced. Any info would be appreciated, thanks Shaun

For those that want to know, they don't have a weight figure on the billet RB26 block yet. Somebody buy one and then weigh it