Bloodnut

I'll probably just go the local private sell tbh, it's just hard to tell what it could be worth seeing as values were down a while back and I was thinking I'd be lucky to get 10, but nowadays they're going for more. Also, pretty much never stock to its hard to gauge. Even if $40k sounds pretty damn good!

Hey people, I've had my black 1997 R33 gtst now for 11 years, since it was imported from n. Its completely stock, in what I'd assume is really good condition apart from needing a good vacuum; and it's completely stock (apart from 34 GTR rims). Has a sunroof, 186,000 ks but runs like a dream Time to sell and get a more practical boat. Anyone know what they're worth these days? I bought it in 2010 for $14k. I'm going to cry when I sell it, honestly. But I can't garage it ? Appreciate any guesses etc.

I have 245/40s on my 34 GTR runs (on a 33 gtst s2) and they seem OK. Looking for a replacement and thinking RE050A or Pirelli?? Or the Invo's you guys all seem to rate. My RE01s are worn and the road noise is terrible, looking for a grippy but quiet set.

I have a similar problem with cold air changing to ambient temp air on my S2 R33 gtst, but air con lasts a while. All sensors say it is fine and temperatures being read are fine, but if it is a 35-40 degree day and I put the climate control on when driving it will blow cold for 5 min if on auto or full or up to 20 minutes if fan only on 1 or 2, but then revert to ambient temp air. I assume this is to do with a sensor being OK during diagnostic mode and then buggering up when actually being used. Another thing I noticed and can't think of why is that the air stays cold for much longer if the car is idling, but if I take it for a drive it will go to warm quite a lot lot quicker. Again, I don't know if this is a sensor playing up. I've tried driving it around until it blows warm, then turning the car off and on and running diagnostics - still all looks normal (no faults, temps all ok). I wonder if I can cheat the system by leaving the car on diagnostics - 42 (full cold) constantly while I'm driving around? Gonna give that a try today. Anyone got any thoughts?

jjman I have a similar problem on my S2 R33 gtst, but it lasts longer. All sensors say it is fine and temperatures being read are fine, but if it is a 35-40 degree day and I put the climate control on when driving it will blow cold for 5 min if on auto or full or up to 20 minutes if fan only on 1 or 2, but then revert to ambient temp air. I assume this is to do with a sensor being OK during diagnostic mode and then buggering up when actually being used. Another thing I noticed and can't think of why is that the air stays cold for much longer if the car is idling, but if I take it for a drive it will go to warm quite a lot lot quicker. Again, I don't know if this is a sensor playing up. I've tried driving it around until it blows warm, then turning the car off and on and running diagnostics - still all looks normal (no faults, temps all ok). I wonder if I can cheat the system by leaving the car on diagnostics - 42 (full cold) constantly while I'm driving around? Gonna give that a try today. Anyone got any thoughts?

hey I just got replacement headlights for my s2 33 gtst and theyre a bit yellowed, but the headlights look like a fixed unit. Just wondering if you clean the inside or the outside of the headlight covers and if inside, how much effort is it to open them up?

Hey sorry for the late reply. Nah doesnt seem to do it in any other gear - well, not noticeably anyway. And no the gearbox hasnt been out since I've owned it (about 14 months). Hmm.... Autoworx are looking at it now.

Hi All, I posted a similar topic to this ages ago and the replies I got back were saying it could be the uni joints or the diff (maybe a bearing), both of which the guys at Autoworx (WA - where I bought the car) said were fine. Now I have isolated it to fifth gear, in that for the same speed (say 110kph) it doesn't do it in 4th. Basically getting a fair bit of what I'd call a rumble (not so much vibration because I dont really feel it in the steering) that comes on quite noticeably at 110kph, and is non-existent at like 107kph. Higher speeds it is there but it seems to be most noticeable around the 110-120kph range, and is mostly noticeable when I ease off the accelerator. My guess is that its something to do with the particular revs it is doing at 110kph (pretty much dead on 3000). Car is completely stock (S2 R33 Gtst 1997) and has done 80000ks. Just wondering if it is something to look into. Seems to be getting worse, but very slowly. Any suggestions?

Nice reply, cheers! Yeah I spoke to Thuy today and he was cool about it all - threw me $100 bucks back so I was pretty happy with that. Its just a sh*toff getting a flat on the freeway less than 24h after fitting the tyre. I can get Federal 595 SS for 110ea off ebay or RSRs for 250 each. May go the RSRs - got a few cheap upgrades coming soon which may boost the power up. Cheers for the help.

(I am cheating by copy/pasting this reply I just did on another forum so sorry if you've read this dribble twice) Ok guys just so you know I ended up getting my R34 GTR rims from J Imports. They came with 245/40s all round - Bridgestone Potenza RE01Rs front and RE01s on rear with 70% tread. $2000. Not bad I thought. 24 hours after I fitted them I got a flat. Turns out that either J imports or whoever sold them to J imports knew of a hole in thew bead seal and tried to patch it up with bead sealant. Very pissed off that tyre has a $450 replacement cost! So now I am stuck with the predicament of whether to replace with another 245/40 on the front (my car is COMPLETELY stock so I think it may be too wide) in which case I'd get another RE01R so it is 2 of the same tyre on the front, or get 2 x 235/40 for the front and keep the good RE01R as a spare. The car looks higher than I predicted with these rims on it so I'd like to lower in the future, and I was told at WA suspensions that all 4 guards will rub with that width (245). But I am guessing seeing as others have these rims on this car (R33 S2 Gtst) that its just a matter of rolling rear guards and negative camber on the rear, and dropping width to 235 on the front - cos I'm not sure if you can roll front guards on my car. Yeah so I'm pissed off and stumbling around the WA for sale section on here and ebay for tyres and may check out tyre rack. I only rack up low kms on the car (I work FIFO) so 2nd hand wouldn't be a drama if in good condition. Any comments or ideas on width or tyre choice?

Ok guys just so you know I ended up buying 2nd hand R34 GTR rims from J Imports. They came with 245/40s all round - Bridgestone Potenza RE01Rs front and RE01s on rear with 70% tread. $2000. Not bad I thought. 24 hours after I fitted them I got a flat. Turns out that either J imports or whoever sold them to J imports knew of a hole in thew bead seal and tried to patch it up with bead sealant. Very pissed off that tyre has a $450 replacement cost! So now I am stuck with the predicament of whether to replace with another 245/40 on the front (my car is COMPLETELY stock so I think it may be too wide) in which case I'd get another RE01R so it is 2 of the same tyre on the front, or get 2 x 235/40 for the front and keep the good RE01R as a spare. The car looks higher than I predicted with these rims on it so I'd like to lower in the future, and I was told at WA suspensions that all 4 guards will rub with that width (245). But I am guessing seeing as others have these rims on this car (R33 S2 Gtst) that its just a matter of rolling rear guards and negative camber on the rear, and dropping width to 235 on the front - cos I'm not sure if you can roll front guards on my car. Yeah so I'm pissed off and stumbling around the WA for sale section on here and ebay for tyres and may check out tyre rack. I only rack up low kms on the car (I work FIFO) so 2nd hand wouldn't be a drama if in good condition. Any comments or ideas on width or tyre choice?

Guys, I'm going to jump in here too cos I have a quick query. I need to replace a front - just got R34 GTR rims for my R33 Gtst (S2) and they came with 245/40 (R18) Potenza RE01Rs front and RE01s rear, but one on the front has gone flat (guy sold it to us with a hole in the bead seal and tried to cover it up. Now not sure whether to replace with another RE01R (up to $450 ea) or go down to 235/40 - car is only stock so 245s seem like overkill on front. If I do go down, considering I have RE01s on the back, I wonder whether to replace with a cheaper option like 2 x Federal 595s off ebay. No issues with having 2 different tyres and tread patterns?

Anyone from WA that can recommend a decent place to roll guards in Perth or surrounds? I got guards rolled on my old car and a bit of paint started flaking off...

Hmm.... reading the previous posts I'm thinking the 245/40 +30 rims I just got may struggle to fit on the front. Hopefully a roll will do it, I don't want to waste the tyres...

Cheers HEKT1K - unfortunately I'm at work and the net is shit and we're flat out and the guy wanted the money today so it was all rush-rush. The car is not lowered at all, it is completely stock. The rims come with Bridgestone Potenzas (75% tread) 245/40. You think a rolling of the guards may be necessary on the front then? I'll look into that - I'm back into Perth Monday (I'm currently away on work) so I'll hunt for a good place to get that done...