PuppaDuck

I'd think if the amount of fuel is that much of a determinant, then so should mechanic mods, sound system, etc... Could you not just put a measurement that looks good without being too low ?

you said shit without being censored... C-C-COOL !

If you are talking about the mesh stuff sticking out of one of the holes inside your rear muffler/barrel, thats the steel packing... leave it alone... the whole thing is full of them... (hope I'm not too late)

how much ? I've got a friend who wants to upgrade the stock R33 one with it...

Dude, just make sure you keep a log of expenses and track all your communications and the results, eg. $20 to work via taxi, called guy and got nothing helpful, etc this will add to the completeness of any action you take, and this is what the guys in court will appreciate... you can even fudge it a bit in case you haven't accounted for everything so far, but don't do anything that sounds greedy...otherwise you loose merit... I would also possibly explain the situation to his company supervisor (or someone high up) and explain the extra costs involved for them with the delays...they already pay outrageous insurance costs and would frown on anything that may influence a premium increase...

I don't think I've ever brought up any hi amounts of boost in traffic...especially with the peak traffics lasting longer and longer lately... on that note it sounds like the stock one will do fine...and for that bit more without the huge overheads of mods, the R34 cooler as a simple upgrade...

oops...stock R33...street car

so from a stock setup, what do they do besides changing to the R34 cooler ? add some boost ? A friend was considering that cooler, a cheap $100 turbosmart boost controller (or bleed valve - if those terms are interchangeable?) and leaving the rest with a possible EMS upgrade to tune those mods together.

Does anyone know if that (R34 cooler) is a straight swap with the stock R33 side mount ? I was considering this as a low-cost DIY alternatives to FMICs... Would also be nice to hear if anyone else has already tried it and what they've noticed different...or any other opinions...

siksII - I was thinking of something like that for ages now... The only thing that stopped me was trying to get the wing off...always afraid I'd rip the paint off the boot... after reading this thread I am tempted to try it... gonna take the bolts off and lightly lift to see what happens...

You know what that is ??? when you have any temperature set other than the coldest, eg. 18 degrees, you are letting the water from your engine enter your heater core, which is the internal radiator used for your cabin fan... so even though the fan isn't blowing the air through the heater core, there is still a lot of heat passing through the heater core in your cabin...hence higher cabin temperatures... next time it happens, switch the fan on, close that valve (by switching the temp to cold) and then turn off the fan...and after a few seconds the heater core will cool off and you won't get any heat... if you have high engine water temperature warnings, and you turned your heater on to hot, it is basically using 2 radiators to keep your engine water cool... John Candy used that theory in Canon Ball...remember when he was racing with the BMW with that chick and the crazy truck guy was up his ass ? He threw the heater on and the car picked up enough power for him to get away...

I know what you mean...had my lights adjusted to standard height...not long after I try to take some of the bulbs out to get the part number so I could consider getting the white globes... and somehow when I put one of the bulbs back in, it shines at a different angle... I just assumed that the bulb isn't sitting in its seat flat enough... will adjust it this weekend and let you know...

Does anyone else get that loud clunk when you try to wind up the window when it is currently only 5 inches of the way down ? To demonstrate it for yourself, start with window closed...Then open the window a bit to hear that skyline guys sick exhaust note next to you at the lights...After he's launched it at the lights and you seem unimpressed at the effort, close your window all the way...and...CLUNK

I was under the impression that the SLIP and LSD-A are options. By flicking the car into SLIP, the gearing is adjusted to make you drive calmer so you don't break traction...(I thought it was also called SNOW) LSD-A is letting the wheels detect slippage and adjust accordingly... I'll confirm this for you tonight... As for flickering lights when you start the car... you should never try to start the car with any headlights, A/C, radio, etc on...I even turn off the interior light if it happens to be on... so basically reducing the load on your battery so that the starter can get the best charge possible to turn your engine... even if you stall it on the road...quickly shut off all your equipment (you might want to leave parkers on if there are cars coming behind you)...start the car and then power everything back up... As for the clock, if you plug it back in (assuming you still have the original white plug) it should work...otherwise use a multimeter and see if your power and negative are ok... You should check all your fuses when you pop something - just to be safe... The water might be getting into your boot because you don't have any grommets in your floors...check for the round black rubbery plugs...you shouldn't have any open holes in your floors... The AUTO function isn't used that much so its not as bad as not having A/C...if it doesn't look obvious, it might be worth getting it replaced instead of fixed...or at least pricing a 2nd hand one so you know how much the effort is worth...

I was going to try and take off the guard liners to get to that area but came across those plastic fasteners (scrivets ?) I am wondering what type of tool I could use to pop these out without stressing or breaking them. The screwdriver didn't budge them - I only tried using light force to see what would happen. They look like they'd break before I moved the inner core outwards. On a side note, I did notice that there looks like enough room in the guard to swap the standard IC for the thicker R34 version. (I'm interested in evaluating that upgrade if anyone else knows of it)

I'm starting this thread to finally tackle the cleaning of those leaves/dirt/grass/etc that build up in those hard to reach areas. I know someone out there has a better solution than I. The two areas that stand out on my R33 are: 1.) the area around the outside of the boot seal that flows water backwards off your car via the rear lights I use heaps of pressure to get most of the dirt out of the sills, and try to hand pick the leaves out...but some still manage to build up behind the lights... There has to be an easier way to clean in there without removing the lights/light surrounds... 2.) The area in the front quarters down the bottom towards the doors. You see these every time you open your door and look behind the hinges. I use the crevice tool on my vac to get the obvious ones out but theres still heaps back there. Last weekend I got out the big blower/vac that I just got from KMart and blew the suckers around. The vac function didn't work cause the nozzle is too big. The blower only seemed to move them around. When I moved the car into the garage shortly after, I didn't find a single leaf on the drive - so nothing came out. What do others do ?

what does it do ? bypass the standard air box so you can clamp a pod to it ?

SKATIN - all you need is a good ear. Turn up the amp so that you can use at least 75% of your volume control off the deck before you start hearing any degradation in sound quality. Start with everything turned flat (gains, bass boost, etc). Get used to listening to it like that for a while. Then try increasing your amp settings a little so you can start to notice by ear what the setting actually changes. Then fine tune. Don't be unfulfilled if you realise you only need to turn up the amp to 20% or so for it to sound great. Let me know how you go.

if you tune your amp properly, nothing will ever blow - especially if you keep a clear source signal and only turn the amp up as much as you NEED to

Those amps have out-rated some of the high-end commercial brand amps... I would have definitely got one had my circumstances been different...

So how much for the R34GTT unit anyone ? I am assuming a straight swap means DIY...

If anyone has those pads that some people have between the spoiler and the boot, and doesn't really want them, I would gladly take them off your hands... Thats the only part of the car that rattles with bassy music... I'd love to finally get rid of that thing as its quite noticeable from inside... Anyone know what I am talking about or can help ?

Have a read and let me know your thoughts... http://www.spiralmax.com/ and http://www.spiralmax.com/tet.htm sounds shonky but interesting...

I guess if someone tells you that driving without shoes will save you a dollar in fuel economy, you'll drive a certain way to make that statement true... There probably is a working version out there but they probably got gunned down by the Petrol Guild or something...

Has anyone looked into these before ? I saw 2 mentioned on Today Tonight a little while ago... www.fuelstar.com.au and www.fitchcatalyst.com.au Both claim to treat petrol so that it burns cleaner and more consistent so you experience an increase in fuel economy, more power, and less emmissions (maybe its possible to toss the CAT out ?) Two applications...an inline one that you hook up like a petrol filter by breaking the fuel line and clamping both sides to it... the other is by dropping a few pieces of metal into your tank... I'm not sure if these things are only talk, but they sound great... I guess I'd be happier if NRMA, autospeed, etc reviewed them and tested them... at the moment they only have international organisations reviews, etc... I was thinking of buying one for the bike or a small hatchback to test it out on - before I killed my R33s engine with it... I am also interested if anyone thinks they can help organise to get them to give us one for free to thoroughly test the product more than their 90 days return guarantee allows... I am also a little pessimistic about the inline version as it looks like it'll restrict our fuel flow...else we'd have to buy their truck version which is close to a grand... Anyway, has anyone tried these, read about these or know the science behind them ???? I would love to get one if it works - before my next tune...