STAGE1

Thanks for your help much appreciated I may have to have this one repaired until such time as I can replace it It is annoying to have to spend money on something just to through it away in the near future Thanks again Phil

I have an aftermarket auto cooler in place but I am not game enough to bypass the radiator altogether. I am looking at an engine rebuild very shortly as well. It never rains but it poor’s

Hi Mine has split the top tank and I would like to replace it with an aluminum one if I can find one. It is a S1 auto so it needs to have the auto line in the bottom tank. Would anything from the skylines fit? Thanks Phil

Here are a couple of photos of my oil cooler and relocation kit. Oil cooler on the driver’s side. Auto cooler on the passenger side I found a couple of welded nuts in the chassis rail under the driver’s feet (aprox) and made up a bracket to suit for the filter

Hope everyone got home all right Heres a couple of photos of the group

Got to think positive it never rains over the catchment areas. Part of the reason for meeting at Yamanto was to do my bit and give a donation as well as see some cool cars then head on down to Milton for the STAGEA cruise. choco does this mean you might be at Yamanto Phil

Sorry didn't read this Ok, so the Gold Coast (1st) meeting point will be at Coomera BP at 9.00am, with a 9.30 departure time. According to whereis.com, it should take us around 40 mins to reach Black st in Milton (Chook's meeting point), so I assume we'll leave a short time for any latecomers to arrive, and anticipate leaving there at around 10.20am-10.30am, then it's on to Chook's route. Phil

We Ipswich people are pretty lucky we will get the best of both cruises. We can go to Yamanto to see the boost cruisin crowd then head on down to Milton to go on the stagea cruise. Any ideas on what time we are leaving Milton Phil

Hi I bout that kit from blitz a while ago and with a guard to centre of wheel measurement of 350mm you will only have about 100mm ground clearance. What I did was to cut it and take 25mm out of the middle giving me a bit more clearance 125mm. There is a fair bit of fitting required in the way of wholes for the grill and so on. I ended up buying two front bars the idea being that if one was badly damaged I could swop them and repair the damaged one at my leisure Witches hat at 100kmph if I did not have the 3mm aluminum plate attached to the bottom of the front bar it would have been a lot worse Phil

Hi As far as the BBQ goes there will be 6 adults and 2 children in my party so we will go with byo but still happy to pitch in some $$$$ if needed. I know this is a stagea cruise so I hope you don't mind the 200sx coming along for the drive. Phil

Hi These are the two I have been to F.I.S.T performance & audio at 3/1288 Boundary RD Wacol PH 3271 3223. I haven’t been there in a while and they sed they were moving to another shop in the same street. I couldn’t tell you what they charge for dino work now. 999 Triple nine automotive 3/806 Beaudesert Rd Cnr of Beaudesert Rd & Musgrave Rd Coopers Plains PH 3272 9992 A power run will cost about $88.oo and tuning will cost about $150.oo an hour Phil

Walbro or Sard I had a walbro fitted early on and it only lasted about 12mths I am now running a sard with a fuel pressure regulator. Both fit in the cradle of the old one with little modification. Both need to have the wires cut and joined (1 red 1 black) I also had a little problem with the sock on the sard not being at the right angle. There might be straight fit models on the market now Phil

I use the NGK laser platinum PFR6G-11 gaped at .8 (aprox $20.oo ea) Put them in and then don't think about them for a year or more Phil

Hi Try fuel pump (APROX $200.oo and a couple of hours to fit) if you are still running the old one you will need a better one to support more boost and power anyway. You have most of the other mods done now Consider this you are running the same boost but with a bigger FMIC the air is cooler so it is supplying a more dense charge of air to the intake so it will need more fuel to keep the AFR right. If the pump is not up to it the EMS won’t let the engine run past this point hence it feels like a misfire or you are on the revlimiter. This will be a cheaper job than the crank angle sensor. I do have the old oem coil packs I took out of my S1 but one is faulty don’t know which one though...... sorry It is possible to have the pressure tested at the fuel rail if you have the right equipment I think it should about 36-38psi phil

Hi and welcome If it is a heavy metal clunk and only there when on full lock I would put money on it being a CV joint. If you are not any good with spanners and things mechanical then it might be best left up to a mechanic to replace. Phil

I Should be there but I will join in at blacksoil or fernvail Phil stage 1 S1 C34

Q. Did you have any victims? A. Sorry but I did not have any wins we only managed 3runs for the day. Race 1&3 the 200sx beat me if only by a smidgen and race 2 I was beaten by a woman in a skyline who I found out later had a rebuilt RB26 with a big single turbo. She ran a 12.3 Q. What launch technique did you use? A. race 1 was right foot on the brake in drive then slips it across to the go pedal when the light turned green Race 2 was left foot brake in drive revs up to 1,800 then it was off with left foot and down with the right Race 3 was left foot brake in first power button on revs up to 2,000 then it was off with left foot and down with the right Hit the rev limiter in 2nd this cost me a 10th Note- we never got into top gear and the car seamed to do better if it was left in drive something I have noticed even on the circuit I went out expecting to do around 15.2 or at best a high 14 so I was pretty happy with my effort Jez let us know what day you are going out and I will come and watch Phil

Hi I knew it would be close but I didn't think he would actually beat me. When he does get it on the dino we can actually compeer the power to weight off both cars. As far as the smoke goes it is still there but only when you give it a boot full. From inside the car it appears to be grayish black (An over rich mixture at high rpm) but on the video it appears to be a bluish color I have taken the plugs out and replaced them even though the old ones seem to be in good condition I also did a compretion test while the plugs were out (wet & dry test and they are all within 20lb from the worst 140lb to the best 160lb). I will keep an eye on oil and fuel consumption over the next few weeks. Phil

Hi All I have done to it is a 3" exhaust off the turbo FMIC Running 12lb of boost Phil

Hi Well I have come back with my tail between my legs and I am sorry but I gave it my best shot. He had me off the line every time and no matter what I did I could not catch him up again. From the 60ft through to the finish line we were very even. It just goes to show that power to weight plays a big part in it all . My best time was 15.456 @ 125.64 KPH reaction 1.026 60ft 10.203 His best time was 14.854 @ 124.31 KPH reaction 0.885 60ft 9.817 Now I know the photo is not grate but should I be worried about the amount of smoke coming from the exhaust. This was the last run for the night.

I don't know about video footage but there will definately be photos. He is not a bad lad he is taking me to Sydney to see Top Gear Live on the 7 FEB. Phil

If it's not I know where I can lay my hands on a good 2nd hand pump and rack. LOL

Hi There was no noise or sloppiness at all. The only other noticeable thing was the colder it was IE first thing in the morning it would be more noticeable. It’s the two cups across one plane of the star that causes this feeling. The process of elimination was as follows 1. Flush the system. Pedders did this for me at a cost of $125.oo which should be done on a regular basis according to them. The oil was very dirty. This did not fix the problem 2.2nd hand pump $110.oo. still not right 3.2nd hand rack $220.oo. problem still there 4.Universal joint $35.oo. 2hrs work and all is well again So if anyone has the same symptoms this hopefully will save you some time and money. phil

This might be one for the DIY Power steering Problem: If the power steering seems to be switching on and off while you are turning the wheel. If you have no fluid loss and your belts are on and tight check the little universal that connects the rack to the steering shaft. Cost about $35.00 To fix Undo the two bolts holding it on. Slide it up first to get it off the rack then pull it down. You may need to spread it slightly with a screwdriver but don’t get to aggressive. Using a bolt and a socket in the vice (see photo) it is quite easy to push the old unit out. But be sure to put a piece of metal between the fingers of the universal (If these get bent it’s all over red rover) so as not to push them together. I used a piece of 3mm plate about 30mm long and about 25mm wide. To install the new one you will need to take the caps off the star so you can insert it in to the fork then it is back to the vice. It’s a little tricky at this point and it is easier if there is an extra pair of hands to hold everything while you do up the vice (Again with the piece of metal between the forks). Push the cups in far enough so the seals do their job. The cups should be about 1.5/2 mm below the surface. Give it a light tap with a centre pop punch and it should be as good as new.

Take two ………. After the last effort she’s on again Weather permitting I was going to go out and settle a score I have with a friend who has a 200sx s15 that he thinks might give me a run for my money. I thought I might put it up here in case anyone else wants to come. [b]SAT 10.1.09[/b] Gates open at 4pm and runs commence at 4.30pm Event fees $38.oo to race, admits the entrant and one other Spectators $19 adults & $17 students with ID Children 13 & under free Requirements Helmet to Australian standards Long sleeve shirt Long pants Covered shoes Cheers Phil