oxford1327
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Posts posted by oxford1327
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Wondering if the brains trust can shed some light on where the ECU gets its signal to trigger the fuel cut at 180k?
Does it originate from the dash cluster or from the ECU itself?
Car in question is a series 2 Stagea and currently have a pivot speed meter installed, but have also fitted a Link Strada dash and Storm-X ECU which has rendered the speed readout on the pivot meter defunct and not displaying anything, so I dunno if the fuel cut bit is still functional until I either find a quiet road or get it on a Dyno, if it is not required anymore to provide fuel cut get-around I'll pull it out along with the also now redundant boost controller and sell them both.
Hopefully someone can share the knowledge.....
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Wondering if the brains trust can shed some light on where the ECU gets its signal to trigger the fuel cut at 180k?
Does it originate from the dash cluster or from the ECU itself?
Currently have a pivot speed meter installed, but have also fitted a Link Strada dash and Storm-X ECU which has rendered the speed readout on the pivot meter defunct and not displaying anything, so I dunno if the fuel cut bit is still functional until I either find a quiet road or get it on a Dyno, if it is not required anymore to provide fuel cut get-around I'll pull it out along with the also now redundant boost controller and sell them both.
Hopefully someone can share the knowledge.....
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Must have sorted something out cos got 14.2-14.3 on display
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On 6/15/2022 at 4:17 PM, RBW49N said:
The alternator needs to see some sort of load to start charging. This is typically done with the charge light in the dash. You don’t have this light so where does the alt get a load from
Ahhh righto, I've got no idea, when it comes to electrical stuff, me and wires have a toxic relationship,most times I let the smoke out of em.....so I leave that stuff to others.
So I'm guessing that installer has that sorted, but if battery starts to die I'll see if they missed doin that.
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On 6/15/2022 at 3:14 PM, Duncan said:
Looks awesome. How to you excite the alternator?
What does this question mean?
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Link dash display finally got fitted with a Mako Motorsports support panel
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On 6/9/2022 at 2:47 PM, zoomzoom said:
The 2 shift solenoids form a 2-bit number which describe the forward gears. But don't assume, 0 is first first gear, and 3 is 4th gear. I think from memory b00 is actually 3rd. The ECU loom also has wires which are digital states for when central shifter is in reverse, neutral or the forward gears.
Coupled with some microcontroller logic (or lucky you if your ECU is modern and has some flexible inbuilt programmable logic), you could determine what gear is currently active, and drive an LED digit display.
Forget the speed vs rpm method for an auto.
P.S.
From one of my micro programs the solenoid combos are as follow (LSB being solenoid 1)
b00 : 3rd gear
b10 : 2nd
b01 : 4th
b11 : 1stCheers, will look into this
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On 6/8/2022 at 7:57 AM, joshuaho96 said:
Can't you snoop the TC lockup solenoid to determine this too?
Honestly have no idea with anything that has wires cos I tend to let the smoke out of them, so I leave that stuff to others and stick to mechanical things that I can see what they do and how.....
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When the car initially had the storm fitted it was still a standard transmission and that's how Danny from Springy Performance set it up, and sadly we couldn't get it to function properly before he passed away, so I had to choose to manualise the auto or install a clutched manual.
Hopefully that makes sense to you, I have honestly no idea when it comes to tuning side of stuff because anything with wires hates me, so I stick to the mechanical side of stuff
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On 6/7/2022 at 7:36 AM, robbo_rb180 said:
Easy to do, setup gear detection in the chassis settings.
If need a hand send me your ecu file and I can set it up and send you a another page for setting it up as takes a few goes. Just need to adjust a few numbers in a table to get right.
Can also setup an output on the ecu to control the 4th and lock up solenoid.I showed workshop fella your message and he would like some more information if possible, said something along the lines of running out of inputs to the dash and that the Jatco trans uses 7 wires for gear signals so don't have enough open/spare ports,for signalling.
It's a series 2 stagea with manualised valve body trans from MV automatics ,running a nistuned factory ECU that's paired to a Link Storm 4x ECU and an Aim/Link dash display MXS Strada Street.
If that's not enough info lemme know what else I can provide to assist.
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On 6/7/2022 at 7:36 AM, robbo_rb180 said:
Easy to do, setup gear detection in the chassis settings.
If need a hand send me your ecu file and I can set it up and send you a another page for setting it up as takes a few goes. Just need to adjust a few numbers in a table to get right.
Can also setup an output on the ecu to control the 4th and lock up solenoid.Awesome I am hoping to get the car back today from the workshop,so I'll show them this message string and see what they have to say.
Thanks for the reply and input 🙂
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On 6/6/2022 at 11:44 PM, GTSBoy said:
There are switches for those, no?
TC lockup could possibly be inferred from rpm vs speed also. If it sits dead bang on the relationship given by the gearing, then TC is locked up. If it is in the "band" available from TC slip around the gear ratio, then it is unlocked.
Yep there are 2 manual switches for 4th gear and lock up, so they're the easiest to solve I spose in comparison, just a bugger that the Link ecu and the Link dash can't bloody read the gear position by themselves, and seems that I'm always the damn guinea pig too, but that's my fault for wanting pretty /shiny things and jumping first....
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Has anybody successfully worked out how to have an aftermarket gear position indicator for an auto in a stagea?
With the Link dash installation almost complete were having issues getting the gear position to show on dash unit, as the factory dash uses 2 seperate signal types between the box and the ECU, as in it receives a square wave signal and transmits a sine wave or vice versa, so it's not reading and allowing the dash panel to show .
It will also be making it potentially worse being that the trans is a manualised valve body and being Jatco 4th gear is electrically selected as well as the lock-up for converter, so they are switched seperate
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On 6/6/2022 at 8:05 PM, GTSBoy said:
Just do it calculated off of vehicle speed vs RPM.
We can potentially do that, but what about indication for neutral, reverse,park and converter lock up? And would also like to avoid any more thousands in labour costs for calculating and calibration, am reaching out to Link and Aim(dash manufacturers) to see if they have a work around,but thought there may have been someone that's seen it done in a track,drift or drag car that has a Jatco box???
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Has anybody successfully worked out how to have an aftermarket gear position indicator for an auto in a stagea?
With the Link dash installation almost complete were having issues getting the gear position to show on dash unit, as the factory dash uses 2 seperate signal types between the box and the ECU, as in it receives a square wave signal and transmits a sine wave or vice versa, so it's not reading and allowing the dash panel to show .
It will also be making it potentially worse being that the trans is a manualised valve body and being Jatco 4th gear is electrically selected as well as the lock-up for converter, so they are switched seperate
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have managed to identify as many wires colours/traces as i can on the back of the dash and written them down as to what they illuminate etc on standard dash panel, so once i have done a proper list and its been confirmed as correct by my installer i will work out how to save it in a pdf or something and perhaps put it in the sticky DIY section so that others can use it for future reference if required, i will also try to upload some pics of the dash panel installed in the car, maybe even a video once i work out how to do it
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Heya all, I am soon to be replacing my dash cluster with a Link Strada MXS 5" display so was wondering if anyone was able to provide me with a chart or picture of the plugs/pinouts/wire colours etc for the series 2 AWD auto dash, just so I can work out what wires, warning lights I can eliminate that are no longer needed due to having a limited number of inputs available.
Hoping someone has some insight into this to save a pile of labour costs when having to trace shit out during installation.
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On 1/11/2022 at 9:01 AM, RBW49N said:
Because the ecu controls everything I don’t need the manual valve body. So it will be essentially the same box as yours but with a different valve body to also allow auto shifting and shifting from the steering wheel.
Yep so the box that's still at MV is exactly what you have just described ,it has a stage 2 MV automatic shift kit so still works with tiptronic buttons etc and would chirp tyres into 2nd gear
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On 1/10/2022 at 11:38 PM, RBW49N said:
Not enough needs a bigger turbo and maybe 700cc more as well 260kw at all 4. It feels faster than that so I can only assume it looses a bit through the trans an AWD. The Haltech feels like an ECU. But the transmission is great. Shifts nice and hard. Also has torque reduction on shifts to help preserve the box/flexplate. I am getting a complete MV automatics rebuilt trans and flexplate.
I have just had a built box from MV fitted with a full manual valve body and it is fantastic.
What stage box are you gonna be looking at building with them because my old trans is still sitting there at MV waiting to be shipped back to me and it's already got a stage 2 shift kit, all new solenoid banks that are about 5000 ks old, with a new set of clutches for 1st-2nd gear and bands fitted about 1000klms before being pulled out and swapped for the manualised one I got them to build me, so if you were interested at all I'd be looking to sell it for a lot cheaper than it'd cost to get all that stuff done.
Shoot me a message if interested RBWGN
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Finally got around to modifying the gear selector knob today, lot sleeker looking than the factory lump,and no more worrying about leather deterioration.
Was a bit of faffing around on the lathe back and forth but got there in the end , now that prototype works I can do the next one without machine marks and anodize centre shaft to black as well. Might even get a unicorn logo engraved or lasered in at some point.
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New shiny but when installed unseen parts arrived today, now just need to get car on the hoist to fit it
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New shiny bits finally turned up from Japan today
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On 9/1/2021 at 8:25 AM, KiwiRS4T said:
People commonly put a Quaife in the front and a Nismo (or other) in the back. In my old S1 I just put a whole GTR rear end in it giving me the LSD and GTR brakes. Might have had to change over the attessa rings (can't remember). Mind you I got it for $1200. Prices may have gone up....
I have conceded defeat and ordered a Nismo GT package that comes with the stub shafts to match my 5 bolt drive shafts etc, so it should bolt straight in hopefully, I wanted to avoid having to modify or make up mismatched drive shafts to my hubs as it already has a big brake kit fitted with 4 piston 340mm discs on the back.
Have new chassis and diff housing urethane bushes ready to fit once the housing and centre has been tarted up and gear set is dialled in ready for fitment.
Fuel cut signal, where does ECU get it from?
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Awesome, thanking you very much for perfectly detailed reply, now to start removing redundant displays and declutter of dash area