oxford1327
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Posts posted by oxford1327
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48 minutes ago, AngryRB said:
I would have the injectors checked for flow just to rule that out.
And might not be but the vct gear could be playing up, that can do odd things, might be too advanced (the slots at the back).
I'll see if the vct bits have been sussed out, new timing belt and adjusters fitted in last couple of weeks to ensure it hadn't been skipped a tooth on pulleys etc, did ask if the bull nose bit on front of cam was free and clean and all reports were it looked fine by them.
When you say slots in back, do you mean on the bull nose bit or the cam itself?
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Just now, AngryRB said:
I would have the injectors checked for flow just to rule that out.
Brand new bosch 725cc from efi solutions and no sign of running out of room for flow, and have just got new pump and adjustable reg fitted ready for E85
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Have spoken to engine builder, and they can only vaguely remember what piston they used in engine, said they reckon it was a modified wiseco piston, so my thought is that next steps are comp test to see if excessive, and the throw E85 at it and see what it does from there.
Then if that fails yank it out, peel it open and put a proper f**king set of neo piston in it just to be certain
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1 minute ago, Kinkstaah said:
Pretty huge. If you had Non-neo forged Pistons in a Neo motor, I.e R33 RB25DET pistons in a R34 RB25DET Neo which the S2 Stagea has, your compression would be massively high.
High enough that whoever assembled the motor would surely notice...... surely....
It might be the other way around, I can't quite remember. But you'd definitely have compression ratio issues if the wrong pistons end up in the wrong block/head combination. (neo vs non neo)I have the build sheet for engine, and sadly all It says is forged rb25det piston kit, but no part number to identify if it's neo or otherwise, so will do a compression test and check figures I spose, apparently std comp is about 170-175psi range, I'll also attempt to call the engine builder and see if they can remember what they were, though it was around 3 years ago so don't hold much hope
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1 minute ago, Kinkstaah said:
The BMW mentioned also wasn't bad on fuel, but it did have a mysterious issue of always fouling two spark plugs, due to the location of the runners this made a whole lot of sense when we looked at the FPR. It could simply be something like the wrong pistons used, sky high compression ratio etc too.
E85 will help with the pinging, but obviously better to find the source ?What would be the differences if any between rb25det pistons and rb25det Neo pistons? Anybody aware of what issues they could cause with clearances etc
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5 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:
This is possibly monumentally off topic, but I recently was made aware of a similar issue where a Boosted 1979 BMW 320i was pinging its brains out on like 3deg of timing. After years of living with it we tested the FPR (Which was a well known australian brand) and it was dumping a good liter a minute of fuel into the intake at idle through the vac line.
It's probably not that. But if you've checked everything else.....
(it could also be as mentioned, something done when engine was rebuilt. If your car behaves differently, look for all the things that are done differently to others)Car doesn't seem to be excessive on fuel consumption so hesitant to think it's dumping fuel in, though have just installed a new adjustable reg, and 300lph pump compatible with E85, so we can test that theory once car is done with installation of flex fuel stuff.
Have had 2 jdm enthusiast /specialized mechanics looking at it and it's got them scratching their heads as to why its like it is, they've both worked on it separately as well as together and short of removing and peeling engine open we've started to make incremental changes to parts, then test and if no change try something else, change, test and so on
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33 minutes ago, Duncan said:
Is it a new engine, or are you trying to tune an engine that has been running OK on a standard ECU. If the former there are plenty of things that could be done wrong causing an issue
It's an engine that's been running fine and smooth, was rebuilt supposedly with forged pistons etc about 10-12000kilometres before I got car, and has kinda always felt doughy in the mid range, even with high flow hypergear it doesn't really come on boost until about 3500rpm
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I'm at a quandry, and am seeking knowledge from the brains trust.
My car won't take timing while trying to tune, all it does is ping its tits off, initial thought was intake or exhaust restrictions but they've since been disproven, as it's got a 3" system front to rear, brand new 100cell cat, and magnaflow 3" inlet 2x2.25 outlet see through muffler, a k+N panel filter etc.
Nistune ecu, injectors as well are within range and not running out (725cc), plenty of spark with Audi R8 coils and fuel pump delivering ample supply/pressure, intercooler has been changed to a higher flowing water to air unit with much shorter piping, engine has good compression and seems to be feeling healthy and wanting to be fed more, yet something is holding it back and it won't take timing, so am left scratching my head as to what the hell is putting the blockers on.....
Any ideas at this point would be gratefully received
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Almost done, custom dial faces made and fitted to cluster now just need to change old globes to led's and can go back in to test
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5
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try searching for Jack Phillips JDM wreckers in melbourne
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29 minutes ago, daneprostamobrown said:
return flow intercoolers are shite. i have one and my next upgrade is to a plazmaman or similar. why you running a plenum spacer?
Purely for clearances of the R8 coilpack conversion, they put ke up a long way
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Just now, admS15 said:
Im running the dw300 pump with 740cc injectors, stock fpr, making 310rwkw. The above hardware will get you to 300rwkw but not much more. Im running at 90% duty cycle on the injectors with the above combo. You may do a little better with your 140amp alternator.
I would source the flex sensor from a reputable source, i got mine through nistune after getting dodgy one through ebay.Fantastic, thanks for the info
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1 hour ago, daneprostamobrown said:
What power are you trying to support? deatschwerks dw300 is a good e85 rated pump that supports good flow and is 39mm diameter body so is a “drop in” solution. Get like 3m or so of raceworks 400 series push loc hose (e85 rated) and change in tank lines, soft lines from tank to hard line, soft lines from hard line to fuel rail and also the short sections that are in the fuel rail. You will also need a 10 micron stainless filter. Not too sure if the oem fpr is suited for e85. This is my plan for when I get around to it.
Cheers for that, not looking at going beyond 300kw absolute maximum, in fact I'd be stoked to get to 250kw, before I put water to air intercooler on the car was struggling to maintain 175kw with a return flow front mount.
Now with the water to air the car feels a lot stronger so to speak and not fighting itself to make or maintain power if that makes sense?
Drive train wise here's short list of what it's got so far, forged pistons, very light valve work, hypergear ball bearing highflow, 725cc injectors, Nistuned,audi R8 coilpack conversion, 10mm plenum spacer, 140amp alternator, shift kitted auto, 3" front to back exhaust, high flow cat and magnaflow shoosher.
Anything else other than fuel delivery that I need to think of changing or upgrading now?
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On 3/27/2019 at 10:16 PM, Race__24 said:On 3/13/2019 at 2:44 PM, oxford1327 said:
After having bedded everything in for a few weeks, I've noted a fairly substantial gain in boost response, engine runs almost a full notch cooler on the Guage, without any adjustment of the boost controller it showed a gain of 3 to 3.5 psi boost and feels hungry for more, so far without any signs of heat soak etc, intercooler body is cool to the touch after an hour driving on highway then bit of a fang through streets on way home. so car is going in for a road tune to tidy up fuel/air etc and see what it feels like, then if feel the need later on can go for a trek and get it on a 4 wheel dyno as closest one with any Nistune experience is around a 1 1/2 hour drive away.
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contemplating doing a flex fuel setup on my banana mobile, so was wondering what the brains trust has to say regarding certain brands and what the pre-work requirements are etc to make it a more painless conversion .
i'm aware i'll need to do the pump and the hoses etc, but as to what types of hose, models of in-tank pumps/flow rate etc id like to have some education on, so fire away and hit me with the Pro's and Cons of certain equipment and why...
not looking to make a squillion killerwasps but have a bit more snort when "needed" and the E- sugar juice is available
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OK thanks, I've finished the install and I've placed a bilge ventilation fan inside the front bar directed at the radiator so it has constant airflow but won't be affected by speed like a rotary bladed fan will, I also have a little doogen/gadget called a Peltier Plate that I can install if need be for extra cooling of the water chamber to increase efficiency that will be attached to the cooler body with its own heatsink, get car back from sparky tomorrow so will be able to update progress soonish
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58 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
You don't need any glycol, etc. You only need corrosion inhibitors (which glycol is certainly NOT). You can buy corrosion inhibitors separately.
I'll look into that, and check what stuff is best for all alloy systems,
thanks.
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On 3/9/2019 at 6:37 PM, Race__24 said:
It's also worth thinking how you want to wire it in. You don't want to drive around with a blown fuse and the pump not running.
I'll take it to auto elec down the road from me and get it wired so that if fuse blows on heat exchange fan or pump that it illuminate an led on dash somewhere, and have it wired to ignition so when car is running so is cooler system circuit.
I'd still like to know how yours struggled when went bigger turbo please?
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So when you say it struggled, in what sense did you mean please?
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Oh and what ratio coolant to water did you run in system?
Was it glycol or ethanol based coolant etc..
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4 hours ago, Race__24 said:
The kit was based on this one which is a 600hp kit
http://www.frozenboost.com/liquid-air-intercooler/water-to-air-intercooler-p-1006.html?osCsid=4a82cfdcc8d2c9a5bfe18b516f7c3663
Except I have a Bosch pump and a type 118 heat exchanger. I didn't have a resi. I wasn't running a thermo on it either. Probably with the resi and thermo it would have been much better. The intercooler was always cool to the touch.
I tried to fit mine where you are planning to but there was now way it was going to fit. The intercooler would fit but the piping takes up much more room than you would think.OK thanks for the reply, essentially the kit I have coming will be the same core size, but with a heat exchange unit 12"x12.5"x2" thick with it's own filler neck, and if need be was gonna add an external reservoir with one of those 12v passive heat sink off a cheap car fridge on a separate switch for hot weather, whether on the cooler core or the reservoir.
As for space to mount the core was looking to mount on a 45 degree angle so it gets plenty of surface wicking as well as utilising as much of available space in cavity as possible.
Oh and can you please explain where you said it was struggling when went to larger turbo?
How much bigger are we talking, and what kinda killerwasps figures did you find it holding stuff back in whatever manner?
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2 hours ago, Race__24 said:
I was running a water to air for a few years. Was excellent with the stock turbo. Throttle response was amazing and fits in without having to cut the reo. When I went to a bigger turbo it struggled. I still have the kit if you are interested.
What supposed hp rating was the unit? And when you say it struggled, in what sense? Airflow or temperature?
Did it suffer from heat soak being so close to engine etc?
Did the heat exchanger have a Dan on it, and/or an external reservoir.
I'm gonna put mine underneath the airbox in the cavity behind front bar and in front of wheel where the standard one would have been I assume, that way it's away from temp sources but still relatively short pipes
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11 minutes ago, karter said:
Matthew Fairweather has run a water to air setup - not sure if he still frequents SAU but look for Matt's Build thread on the M35 Stagea Tuners FB page.
Awesome, thanks, I did a search on here and not a cracker came up, will definitely suss it out tomorrow
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32 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:
The problem is the plumbing layout is so suitable for a front mount so going down the water air option to be different is going to cost more and not solve a packaging problem. While water to air can be a better overall option, it's your money, but I wouldn't do it.
When I had the front bar off the car recently there is miles of real estate available in front of the front wheels behind the bar, so my thinking was that I could mount the header tank and pump on the driver's side, the heat exchanger /radiator where a front mount goes, and the cooler body on the passenger side and use the factory piping holes to plumb cooler body, that would just about cut the pipe length by 2/3 or more, it would all still get plenty of passing air, as well as passive cooling and not have extra chopping of holes in stuff, and because the heat exchanger radiator is 1/3 as thick as average front mount and also smaller surface area, the other cooling elements of the car would benefit overall.
And if it comes down to cost arguments, a good front mount kit is around the 1k and above mark, pretty much on a par with the water to air setups
Ideas why engine won't take timing?
in Wagoneers
Posted
New balancer is being fitted already as old one was getting tired and perished, will then try timing light etc, cam gears are std OEM stuff, and new belt was fitted couple weeks ago whilst it was opened up to check it hadn't skipped a tooth or 9.
Currently waiting for the ecu to return from Nistune after having E85 harness fitted and a general checkover found nothing out of the ordinary