oxford1327
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Posts posted by oxford1327
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On 8/17/2021 at 12:10 PM, Kinkstaah said:
There isn't.
The options for Nissans are
1) GTR
2) S15
3) 350Z
Quaife make nothing that suits anything else.Yes as stated in the previous comment, I know there is no direct replacement, so I would need to use a 6 bolt flanged stub axle and different driveshafts. What I'm asking for is which model stubshaft and drive shaft will be the correct lengths to suit the quaife centre that I CAN get and put in my housing.....
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OK crew, I've not been able to get any info on whether there is a drop-in fit quaife diff that use standard 30 spline axles with 5 bolt flanges.
So I can get either 29 or 31 spline centre that will use 6 bolt stub axles, therefore I need to know which stubs to get and what driveshafts will be the correct length etc for a S2 auto landbarge?
Cmon people please gimme something,anything.......
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On 7/22/2021 at 11:47 PM, BK said:
Fitted to 32 GTR. Front is QDF3L and rear is QDF14L, which required 31 spline to replace the early GTR 30 spline. The QDF7L is indeed the rear 29 spline for rwd cars.
Cheers, just need to know if it's the correct one for the stagea now
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On 7/22/2021 at 9:30 PM, BK said:
I have a Quaife front and rear in a GTR.
In my opinion they are excellent 👍
Don't suppose you remember the model numbers of them at all? And what model gtr?
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I have a head that will need to be recoed, was on a complete engine I bought and it had dropped a valve guide into the cylinder, but not too bad considering.
can send photos if want.
$600 plus post from Victoria
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Heya peeps, I am looking to put a QUAIFE lsd into the rear of my barge.
It's a S2 AWD Auto and would like to know if the following model number is the correct unit?
QUAIFE model QDF7L to suit an R200 29 spline.
Eventually I would like to have an LSD in both ends of the car and to have both the same type, so that's why I wanna have a quaife instead of a clutch type at one end and helical the other that behave differently.
Look forward to responses either for or against.
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Yeah, nice, got a link?
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More than likely be cheaper to buy the complete bar, by time you chop up your stock bar, graft in new section then blend /fill/fibreglass and paint.
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Have spoken to MVand bloke told me would need to change a few things inside the trans mechanically before putting a manual valve body in it, because apparently not supposed to be compatible with the B transmission, would also need a different/aftermarket shifter to be able to get first gear, and a new stall converter because it wouldn't be a lock up one.
Then I would have to ship it to em etc too. So would be a costly experience
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3 hours ago, Shortgun said:
I emailed Takero's and they said that it has been done but they didn't have any pics
Probably by cutting the lower section out and grafting takeros bit in place
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Car already had a nistune and it has been replaced with a new Link G4X stormX ecu so it doesn't have trans control communicating properly, looking more and more likely to end up going manual valve body
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I am fine with not having the steering wheel buttons working, and no issues with having to move the shifter etc, was more about dulling the thumping between changes, especially on down shifts.
Will see how it goes with new clutch packs and band for now, but full manual valve body is looking more and more likely in the future
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The kit that I used specifically only mentioned the A too, but the B was no issue.
Maybe contact DTM in Geelong (they're closer than MV) and they may be able to assist/recommend something.So yours was a B?
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The kit that I used specifically only mentioned the A too, but the B was no issue.
Maybe contact DTM in Geelong (they're closer than MV) and they may be able to assist/recommend something.Cheers, will look em up and hit em up
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Has anyone tried to put the Takero's C34 STAGEA typeZERO rear diffuser on their stock bumper (preferably 260RS bumper)? Wondering if I should just buy their bumper with the diffuser already mounted.
http://www.takeros.jp/catalog/05_nissann/c34_stagea_zero/index.html
Will most likely not fit on a STD bar because the bottom below tailgate is different shape
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Have heard back from 2 controller manufacturers and neither support the RE401B, they both support the A model but the B has extra solenoids and harder to get around electronically apparently.
So the search continues, next step is to get hold of MV and see what they can suggest
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2 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:
Yeah I could not find ANYTHING, at ALL for the RE401B on anything, at all.
It wasn't listed for the TCM PCS range either, but it didn't need a lot of smarts, and the TCU that we got was a universal, truly standalone one. In the end it just wanted speedo, tach, and the inputs on when to change gears (pretty much). You could set up the auto shifting and setup a full manual mode. You could change line pressures and such if you really wanted to, but it was hooked up with pretty much max pressure all the time. It had full control of the box and you could configure things like shift lockouts. However you did have to blip the throttle when shifting down - going from 2nd to 1st at 60+kmh would lock up the rears if you didn't blip it.
Mine was originally installed by DTM Autos in Geelong - I only really got my hands dirty with it when we re-shelled the car, and I had a GTT to work with instead of the original GT N/A car, so all the wiring for the TCU had to be worked out again! That said, it was a lot simpler than we thought, and we had it going in a couple of hours actually, with just a friend and me on the nature strip of all places.
Awesome work, thanks heaps for the knowledge, truly appreciate it and will try to put it to good use, I'll have a chat with mv automatics and my tuner to see what they can find/recommend etc, and show them this thread to have a kick off point.
I'm gonna start researching as best I can in the meantime and smashing the inboxes of manufacturers to see what shakes out.
Cheers
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15 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:
I used a TCM PCS 2000, which has since been superseded by other TCU's that that company makes.
Honestly the gearbox itself (in R34 GTT form) has something like... 8? Wires going to it. It was remarkably not-that-complicated once you have it all out infront of you and a fair understanding of what wire goes where (i.e have the service manual handy).
More modern engine ECU's can also control an automatic gearbox. These would actually be my pick because you can then have the engine ECU know about shifting and perform additional functions. I don't know off the top of my head which ECU's manage a motor AND an additional auto gearbox but I would wager the higher end known options do (i.e haltech, link etc)I have a link G4X StormX ecu installed and that is what we think is giving the trans control unit the shits, there has been some development at link and haltech to start basic control circuit etc but it hasn't been refined as yet so there's not a lot of troubleshooting guidance so far, I've sent off an email to a TCU mob that list jatco RE4 +RE5 boxes however the model RE4R01B is not shown, so I've asked if it is supported with their unit, awaiting the response.
I will look into the TCM PCS model range and see what I can dig up.
Cheers again for the help
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8 minutes ago, zoomzoom said:
If you're willing to sink the funds into a box rebuild then I'd be looking at an aftermarket trans controller too. Apart from retaining the choice of auto or manual gear selection, variable line pressure, and the ability to tweak all the shift and lockup points is a benefit once you've tuned the engine. Also I highly recommend retaining and optimising ignition retarding logic on gear changes, to maximise the life of the box, reduce shocks to the rest of the drivetrain, not to mention the inhabitants of the vehicle.
Cheers for the knowledge, who makes these control boxes and how many first born will need to be sacrificed for one?
Also, how much buggering about would you expect to allow for set-up, and was it a drawn out process to get yours to work at an acceptable level or is it something that has a depth of knowledge available?
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Just called trans service and they've said box is currently out of the car being diagnosed and do far has shown signs of bands slipping, and potential clutch pack wear, so they're being replaced asap and uprated flex plate being installed as well when it goes back in
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4 minutes ago, zoomzoom said:
Any other variables like how much throttle you're giving it when the gears flare?
Generally only flares between 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd when under light load and cold, once it's warmed up and sink the hoof into it it shifts as it should, it's like it can decide to shift and is holding out for more throttle, the 3rd to 4th in either direction once warm and under light throttle cannot decide if it wants to shift or just coast with the convertor unlocked, well that is how it sounds and feels to me
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And as a side note, yes the entire set of solenoids have been replaced with brand new units about 15000klms ago which was about 2000klms after the shift kit was installed as it was recommended by MV automatics as well as my local trans builder/service provider to do the solenoids as well just because they're 20+ yrs old
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4 minutes ago, zoomzoom said:
OK
Maybe specify whether you actually want to have to stir some lever all the time under full line pressure or whether it's intended as a stop gap measure for your real problem.
What do you mean by the ECU fluffing around?
As stated I have had a manualised trans before and it was fine when under heavy acceleration, however it was only a 2 speed, hence I asked how much of a Pita is it gonna be with a 4 speed around town, and shifting gears/"stirring levers" isn't the issue.
With reference to the ECU fluffing around, it is flaring on up shift between 2nd+3rd when cold, then sometimes between 3rd 4th in both directions when at running temp as the Trans Control Unit isn't accurately communicating with the ECU and it doesn't seem to know whether to keep the converter locked up or release etc
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Hello all, I am seeking information on real life experiences of having a manual valve body in a series 2 stagea, as in how harsh are the changes when just tootling around town etc.
I've had a manualised auto before but it was in a Torana hatch with a 350 chev and power glide, so it be vastly different being a 4 speed.
I already have a stage 2 shift kit installed from MV Automatics and am currently sitting at 295awkw and the new ecu is having an occasional fluff around, so have been contemplating the manual valve body.
Look forward to the potential flame show coming my way.
Cheers
Quaife lsd for rear of AWD series 2
in Wagoneers
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Yep, I was hoping to not need to be the first sucker to re-invent the wheel for a change, and thought that surely someone else would have been down the same path? at least once and that they would share the knowledge gained in the process.
Even the Nismo clutch type diffs requires changing to a 6 bolt shaft, so was also hoping somebody could remember the driveshafts part numbers used to convert to 6 bolt