oxford1327
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Posts posted by oxford1327
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torque settings for spark plugs in an alloy head should be no more than 23NM maximum, when brand new plug this will give proper crush gasket "squish" and ensure a good seal without damage to the plug or the head.
this torque setting doesn't seem like much but a preset plug tool can be purchased through specialist suppliers that sell to motorcycle mechanics and or speedway enthusiasts, i have a KINCHROME branded one for my 2 stroke race bikes and it has saved me a fortune in replacing cnc machined heads from being stripped when they are over $2500 per cylinder head and you have 4!
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11 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:
Yep, 100% agree, ive only recently got my car back from the workshop so haven’t done a heap of driving but I’ve already noticed the electrical system is better, before with lights on and stereo on I would see a drop in voltage and that was only running one fuel pump. I’m now running three pumps, no issues, no volt drop.
Very happy customer here.
But I didn’t fit it, I had the workshop fit it.3 fuel pumps? jeebus I'd hate to have your bloody fuel bill hahahaha, 2 questions... why 3 pumps? and secondly are any of them a "drop-in" upgrade that aren't as loud as a rotary13B sitting in your boot?
I might look at doing a pump and reg upgrade in the future but don't want a massively loud thing resonating in the wagon, so I'm looking for recommendations of an in-tank minimal fuss type of thing, any suggestions?
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Received my kit yesterday, and fitted it up this morning, took a couple of hours to do from start to finish including removing old standard unit.
Everything bolted up perfectly and lines up spot on, great quality and an excellent upgrade for the electrical system ready for any added extras down the road.
Personally I found the best course of action for fitment is to drop the old unit off through the gap between the radiator shroud and the power steering lines etc, and have the extension bracket mounted to unit not fully tightened, that way you can wriggle stuff around when lifting the new one up through the gap, hardest bit, and part that illicits the most cursing of engineering design etc. Is the placement of the lower pivot bolt, you can either see it, or you can get a hand in there to fit it, Never both! Once bottom bolt is in the rest is easy as.
Electrical system is now a lot more stable and also a bit quieter on the belt noise level with the new pulley too, so I will be recommending this kit to all of the local jdm nut bags and passing them the info/links etc.
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3 hours ago, ridebmxyo said:
Are these kits still for sale? How much for just a kit without alternator and posted to Darwin
See the post above yours addressed to me, $200 for bare kit, or $500 with an alt.
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What did you end up setting the price at for a kit? Price with and without alternator itself please, also how much extra for anodised?
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Chasing a pair or single rear strut top rubber cap like these
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Sorry can't help you out any further, just got those instructions with the keys I purchased from ebay, and took 4or5 goes to get the timing /sequence right for them to work, you have to be spot on or it'll do half of the process and have to start again.
Could also try trawling some of the US or European forums especially the UK ones, those guys ask squiliions of questions
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i think if you were to take that key number to a locksmith with the right equipment they would be able to cut the key according to the factory specs, even if you have a dud key fob(electronic bit) but the blade of the key is intact even if it's worn they would be able to cut the key to factory standards, then its just a matter of the programming sequence, I know the sequence in the attached file worked for my series 2 Stagea WGNC34, but I'm not sure about other later model stuff
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Brake upgrade on the front completed, they're only little 8pots, 4pots to go on the rears once bracketry is sorted for diameter and offset.
And finally able to get new rims fitted now that brakes are done and allow clearances
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Deposit has cleared, so mat is sold
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sold pending deposit
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Okey dokey, if I don't answer straight away it's cos I'm on nightshifts this week, so as soon as I wake up (usually around 4pm) I'll give you a holler,and can sort out time etc from there.
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If possible, I'd like to come and measure up whether these will fit my rims either Saturday or Sunday, if that suits you? And if they will I can leave a cash deposit on the day to secure them.
Shoot me a text at 0417151262 if you don't want to discuss on here, I've had similar experience with scamming dirt bags while trying to sell my race bike in last few weeks.
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up for sale, Unmolested Stagea Boot Mat, it has not been cut out around the tie down lugs and is very good condition.
Has got 2 very small pinholes where previous owner says he dropped sub-box or something on it, they are sort-of shown in the second pic.
Asking $250 posted anywhere in OZ, or can negotiate for pick up in Ballarat, Vic area
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i have a full set of locks and an ignition barrel with keys if want to purchase? key is a bit worn on the blade and the buttons were fried when i bought the car, but if take it to a proper locksmith they can cut a key from the vin for about $50, and can buy a blank with the electronics etc from ebay that comes with the programming instructions.
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Would love to but it's going to depend on how much it costs to get car repaired now as got hit and run by a turd on the freeway Friday, lucky I have a dash cam do hoping police will be able to chase them down. ?.
I'll be in touch when I can afford them, but if they are gone in the meantime so be it....
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ok that's fair enough, if sale falls through i would definitely like to come and look at them, and have a measure etc to see if they'd fit
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location? within how much distance from Ballarat , victoria please?
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very interested , would need to see if they fit stagea series 2
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I know it's an old post but are these still available?
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yep and at this point i have tried all of those combinations and to no avail....so the latest iteration is going to be the 355mm fronts and 330mm rears from a 370z with the Akebono calipers, and the only way to get those to fit still will be with a 15mm thick bolt on spacer on the fronts (rears clear no problem), with its own secondary stud set, at least that way they will become a semi-integral part of the axle and allow me to get the wheels fitted until i can source a compatible caliper and rotor combo that wont require the use of spacers and give me the desired offset etc.
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Interested to suit S2 stagea neo engine
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I've no doubt about being able to get other wheels to fit, however I am a stubborn and angry old man that is currently having a toddler tanty ... And I don't wanna get other wheels I want those ones!. ? ? as nobody else does wheels in that colour and style that I've seen before, so I want to get them to work, and as stated I am indignantly stubborn to the core so if need be I will over time and trial find a combination that works,but I would obviously prefer not to....
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On 09/02/2018 at 2:58 PM, KiwiRS4T said:
The only ones worth fitting are GTT or GTR. You may have to remove the olives or trim the rear backing plates in some cases and there are two diameters of bolts but that is easily fixed. All the info is in the thread. Use Google to search.
I've tried to search Google and am not finding many answers, I also trawled through over 70 pages of tangents and unrelated conversations that vaguely resembles a discussion on braking applications and parts required etc on here and still learned 5/8ths of bugger all regarding the actual difference in the overall width of different calipers that are available, and also which model vehicles are directly compatible with the a series 2 stagea, all I can surmise is that anything GTR will be a close match other than bolt diameter, so short of purchasing every type of brake setup available for a trial and error based approach it's proven to be a frustrating exercise to find a caliper that'll work with the wheel that I have
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140A alternators kit for rbs
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
mine already had much thicker cable than standard due to the car having a uber-ridiculous stereo system in it when i got it, but can buy 200amp rated cable 10mm thick in super cheap which is about $8-10 a metre that'll be more than up to the task, then go to an electrical wholesaler or battery shop for the crimp on ends