Guishnu

As in ford falcon? Sorry, in the UK :-) we don't have them here. I can probably order some. So falcon coils and HT leads? What plugs and gap? Anything else?

Hi guys, I wondered if anybody had an opinion on the best ignition setup for an RB25DET neo currently running circa 500hp but I'm about to start pushing for 650 at the wheels. At the moment I'm running standard coil packs, 8 grade plugs. It seems to be blowing out the spark in 5th gear at full boost (1.4 bar on a GT3076r) Splitfires are an obvious choice, but what is everybody else running? Cheers Chris

Okay now I'm totally boggled. I have done a block test and it's come up clean, I have done a compression test and it's come up at 140psi (give or take) right across the board. Oil is good, water is clear... Took it out for a drive and boosted it to 1.4 bar. No problems until it got hot. When its at good temperatures it boosts fine, when it gets hot!- its almost like it hits a boost cut or is blowing out the spark when it hits high boost and WOT. Engine doesn't overheat when standing idle ticking over - warms up correctly. Doesn't increase in temperature when already hot/overheating when then left to idle. Plugs looked a good colour, not black or sooty, not white or charred. A nice light brown colour. Drives perfectly fine off boost. ECU doesn't throw any other fault codes. Engine doesn't smoke or pop balls of smoke in any way. Does anybody have ANY idea? I'm utterly stumped. Could the turbo be on its way out and cooking the water? It's only 10k miles old and doesn't make any noise or smoke? Somebody mentioned that when the bearings are really warn they cause excess heat? But wouldn't this happen when just driving normally off boost too? I really just have no damn idea.

So we seem to have some conflicting data here chaps. The Nissan EPC says that it's 150105L800 or an RB25DET S1/S2 pump. But people have opened them up and said that it's a proper N1 pump which means that is should be part number 15010-24U00 or 15010-24U01. So what gives?

For some reason it won't let me edit my above post anymore - so... It seems that: - RB25DET S1/S2 motor uses oil pump part number 15010-5L800 - R34GTR RB26DETT uses oil pump part number 1501005U11 that was superseeded by 1501005U12 - N1 Oil pump is part number 15010-24U00 that was superseeded by 15010-24U01 Webbers Oil Pump Comparison Guide http://webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60:oilpumps&catid=46:engine-mechanical&Itemid=22

:-) Trying to find the part number for the RB25DET Neo oil pump is like trying to get blood from a stone. Hopefully somebody on here will have access to the Nissan parts database and can look it up.

Well you see, I had heard that the neo 25 had an N1 oil pump - but wanted to know if it's just another internet myth or if there is any proof? EDIT: It seems that: - RB25DET S1/S2 motor uses oil pump part number 15010-5L800 - N1 Oil pump is part number 15010-24U00 that was superseeded by 15010-24U01 Might help anybody else searching in future.... - N1 Water Pump- 21010-21U26 N1 Water Pump Part Number

Hi All, I have searched the forum to try and find the answer but have had no joy. Do you know if the RB25DET Neo oil pump is different from the S1/S2 RB25DET as used in the R33 GTST? I was wondering if it was in any way superior to the ones used on R32/R33 RB25 & RB26 engines. Cheers Chris

Ahh! You know what, skyline Australia forum is genuinely the best skyline form in the world. The UK forums are okay, but for technical knowledge this place is the poodles privates. What did you take out of the head to get your 57cc? Thanks Again Chris

Hi All, In July 2010 i built an RB30/26 with the quench pads removed from the head mated to Endyn softhead pistons (for a friend) It seems to have ran well so far and the folks mapping it say she's strong etc. As it turns out i have done the head gasket on my 25 neo I’m going to pull the engine and do a rebuild on the bench while it's out. I think i have managed to find a 26 crank, rods and 87mm wiseco pistons for a good price which I’ll throw in for good measure. By banging a neo head on top of that little lot, the CR backs out at about just under 10.3:1. I was planning on pulling the quench pads out of the head which should let me drop about 9cc's from the combustion chamber and with a 1.2mm gasket leave me with 9.2:1 compression ratio. I think most are pretty argued out on the whole "remove/don't remove" the quench pads debate. But does anybody have any experience with removing the quench pads on a neo head? If so, how many cc's are gained in the combustion chamber by doing it? Cheers Chris

Yep, Pretty much what i thought. I'll do a sniffer test then if it comes up bad, tear it down. Thanks very much for your help everybody. Chris

Hi all, Thanks for your reply. No shroud, big alloy 75mm radiator that's been perfect up till now. No evidence of oil/water contamination. No mayonnaise etc.

Hi all, I have a problem and wondered if you can give me your thoughts please. I have a 1998 R34gtt with about 70,000 miles and running a GT3076r and a Link G4 plug and play ECU running a 5 bar map sensor. It's been mapped on a dyno dynamics rig to 498hp at the flywheel. Internally it's stock apart from a 1.6mm metal head gasket. (Fmic, oil cooler etc) I have done 9000 miles with the car in this spec. The problem: Yesterday the water temperature started to climb, which also caused the oil temps to rise. General overheating occurred which resulted I'm a peak temp of 101 deg oil temp and 120 deg water temp before I shut it down. It will cruise on the motorway off boost for quite a while (70+ miles) and stay under 100deg water temp and about 85 deg oil. However, when you hit roundabouts or built up areas and speeds below 40mph she starts to overheat, heat soaks everything and it's all over. The top hose feels hard. I pulled the thermostat and that's working properly. I pulled the water pump and that's perfect too. I have re-bled the cooling system and that's got no air in it either. I think that the head has lifted and probably caused gasket failure between the water passage and cylinder or I have somehow cracked the head. But can anybody else give me any better ideas? Cheers Chris

Thanks all! Big help Do R34GTR bonnets, front bumper/bar and fenders/wings fit?

Hello Im trying to figure out a styline route for my R34 4 door. Does anybody know (for certain) what the compatability is between the 2 door and 4 door chassis? Are the wings/bonnet/front and rear bumper the same on both cars?

Lol Never mind - I know milling the caps isn't possible. I’m even more retarded then usual (but it's always good to make 110% sure!) Oil Clearances Mains OEM Standard Bearings 0.028mm ~ 0.046mm / 0.0011” ~ 0.0018” with a limit of 0.090mm/0.0035” Big Ends OEM Standard Bearings 0.020mm ~ 0.039mm / 0.0007” ~ 0.0015” with a limit of 0.090mm/0.0035” My mains are running 0.046mm/0.0018” (aprox) My big ends are running 0.050mm/0.0020” (aprox) So I’m golden. Few.

I'll pull out the crank, clean, replace and re-check the measurements. If the big end clearances are too big, can i get a few thou machined off the cap face to tighten them up? Same with the main bearing gurdle?

Hey Folks, I was wondering if one of the hotshot engine builders on here would give me some advice. Im in the process of doing my very first full/ground up engine build and im having some issues with oil clearances. I am using plastigague as a measuring tool and I want to double check im doing it correctly. The plastigauge "splat" matched up to the card between 0.050mm and the 0.038mm marks giving me an estimated clearance of around 0.046mm (ish) do i then divide that figure by 2 to give me the actual clearance of 0.023mm? IE: Bang on the Nissan spec of 0.022-0.046 mm?? Or is my actual clearance 0.046 (ie: on the very limit of the OEM specs) I think im right that the plastigauge figure has to be divided by two to account for the two oil surfaces (one on each side of the crank) but i just want to be 100% sure. I measured the BE bearing and that came out at dead on 0.050mm which if i divided it by 2 would be bang on spec, but if it's not then i think im way out. The engine is an R32 RB26DETT with a brand new ACL standard size bearings. Crank has been polished and nothing else. Cheers Chris

You have PM

Not possible, stroke is too long.

Not done it myself yet, but i believe that it doesn't matter how far you drill in (within reason) mainly because if you hit the water jacket, you just line the thread with plenty of locktight when you put it in. This is all off the top of my head and i have not researched it recently tho. Will be doing it myself again shortly. With regards to the position, i don't think there is any measurable correct position. It's a tensioner, not an idler - so any slackness in the belt can be taken out.

Hi Guys Yes im using an RB30E block (none turbo) obviously with none turbo pistons. I plan to get the piston crowns and top ring lands Keronite coated and if i can get some decent piston rings it should improve reliablity. Leeroy, if you can help me out with that, it would be fantastic news chap Im trying to get to around 8.5:1 - 9.0:1 compression ratio but im still clueless as to what RB30E none turbo pistons and an RB26DETT head with a 1.2mm head gasket, will give me in terms of compression ratio! Leeroy, you have PM!

Hi All, Living in the UK we have a bit of a problem getting hold of RB30 parts. Is their anywhere i can get uprated/performance RB30E piston rings to fit standard RB30E pistons? Im have finally decided to see what i can get out of the standard pistons before upgrading to forgies later on (money restrictions really) Can anybody point me in the right direction? Thanks Chris

There is no advantage to using the RB25 pistons as the distance from the top ring land to the crown is so bloody small that they brake up at higher hp. RB26 pistons don't have this problem. Stock RB26 pistons can be had for next to nothing over here as well.

Hi folks I have been trying to find this info and have looked in the RB30 conversion thread but it's 350 pages long and near impossible to navagate. Does anybody know (or can work out for me) how much i would need to deck the block when using RB26 pistons in an RB30 block running and RB26DETT head to achieve an 8.5:1 or 9.0:1 compression ratio? I know it has been done before, but i can't find an answer to this question Thanks folks Chris