75coupe

Wow $160 for the set, that is the cheapest I have ever heard it... It beats paying $500, I got quotes from 4 different places all were $60 per wheel plus blasting... Damn I wish I got mine done that cheap... But I gotta say, white hey... just try keeping them as clean as possible as some brake dusts will actually stain or bake on, not all but I have seen it happen, another reason I love black rims... you can't see the brake dust as much... They do look hot though in white, and that price tag is gonna be making me jealous everytime I look at my newly refurbished rims... next comes anodizing the centre nuts and air valve stems, lets see how much money I can waste on that...

I got them back today actually. no time to take a photo as yet, the 2pak seems pretty tuff, though they left them for me to buff them which I thought was pretty lazy of them, slight orange peel there if you look for it.. whenever I pick things up for workshops I just have to put them in the car and not look at it, I will always find some sort of defect in their work... and I've tried heaps of different painters and other workshops. I prefer 2pak over powder coating as far as look, but I'll wait and see how they go after 6months of abuse... pics up soon... oh let me whinge for a second... why is it a painter will tell you all the cars and bikes they have and how they won some car show yet when they do work on my car the finish is usually rushed looking and they hate having to fix their work.. I went back to one painter 4 times just to paint a bonnet and it still had runs in the paint, I got sick of transporting the bonnet there so I just bad mouth their business now, thats how it works as far as I concerned... *finished*

Thats not a bad install but I've seen it done a tad better... Imagine the time in that install... I couldn't do better personally...

I have recently wanted to repair and recoat some rims. don't worry about sand blasting rims it won't hurt them as long as the operator knows what they are doing. I have some very soft aluminium rims that went to a wheel repairer who lipped and straightened them then took them to strip and paint at lakehaven NSW for painting, I've always thought power coating was the way too go on rims but I've had many people tell me 2 pak is as tuff if not tougher, and there's more range of finishes... Price between powdercoat and 2pak was the same roughly powdercoat maybe slightly more. you may be able to find cheaper but I'm not really into cheap and dodgy... to repair ($200) and strip & repaint 2 pak ($480), but considering I got them for $250, thats alright, 17" Sparco brand lightweight jap rims in staggered widths.... I pick up the finished product on Monday, photos then... I was also offered urethane, but had no experience with that so said no...

there was a thread mentioning the legalities of CF vs FG and it was said CF is illegal due to splintering and the FG were OK but also mentioned was actual safety approval... I bet I can find other illegal things on most of our cars anyways...

It has to be either M8 or M10... my guess is 8 from memory.. do a search there should be heaps of threads on this....

Is your Cusco Roll cage still up for sale? Does the rear seat need to be removed to bolt it in? And is it made for sunroof or no sunroof?

I'm after the air conditioning belt tensioner bolt, washers and pulley... Price?

what is the outer diameter? Dimension measurements? What shape is the Key? What are they made of?

use the allen key type for sure.... then if you find them in black, let me know where you found them... oh yeah and under 22mm in diameter thanx

where are you? If your in Perth Try out Fleeting Image, they look like they do full car wraps almost daily... Otherwise just look for sign shops that handle full car wraps, get ready to be shocked at the price...

I had a problem sounding similar it turned out to be the coil pack loom had become as a bit dodgy.

You gotta remember that most race cars up close don't look that great. you can do an install on a full car with basically no joins, you just need a good installer. Showcar or street car installs are way different to a race or drift car, in my opinion. I dunno how matt colours would hold up I can't see any problem cause you can just clean the vinyl if it gets dirty but abrasions might be a different story to using gloss... It would be interesting to see that r35 with it done in 12mths to see how it has done...

It will work no worries, it won't bubble crack or peel, it will just depend on the install job. No vinyl graphics I have ever done has faded (shite vinyl) or cracked and peeling is just a crap install... It would turn out great I just don't think it is worth it, and I'm sure people will jaw drop over the final price considering its just plain black... wow $1000 for a 2 colour vinyl thats over the top... complete rip off.... I would have to cover the entire sides or a car in full colour printed vinyl with transparent or chromes over the top to charge $1000....

Vinyl used for car graphics will not peel or lift after being in "Aussie" or any conditions if done right. If installed correctly it will last 5 years easily and look just as good as the day it was installed. And there is no way anyone would clear coat over vinyl, that would be completely silly. The chrome on the S15 was done using normal chrome 5 year vinyl, and they have applied it in small sections around the curvy bits. from afar it looks great close up you will see the joins. Its fine for a drift car but not for a show or street car. I always design vinyl graphics so there is no overlap, it will last longer and look better close up... To cover a whole car in matt black I would definitely get a professional installer and I would use car wrap vinyl which is thinner than graphics vinyl, lends itself to scretch and shrink far better and you should be able to get the entire car covered with minimal joins showing. Expect to pay though. I reckon the installer would cost at least $800 at a guess. not including materials. As an estimate you have seen the cars that are covered all over with an image for advertising, well they don't have joins that you can see. For a price you can ask a sign shop that does car wraps to quote you on the job.... I don't do complete wraps...

Bonnet locks are a must have when using a FG or CF bonnet. and Aerocatch are the best... look good & work good...

patience my son, you Master will soon be available, wait for him so he can show you in person, far better than a forum tutorial...

I'm pretty sure the indicator and reverse light lenses are glued in using sealant and the red lenses are the same, you can use the oven trick... but they are bothed glued to the same main assembly piece.

You can get open ended (allen key) alloy wheel nuts from BSA Wheels Australia in a range of colours. they will close to 19mm outer diameter. Its the smallest open ended I could find in black.

um, I've seen a few stock plenums converted into front facing, but that one is amazing... perfect job... so when are you getting a new plenum...? so what are you doing with this one? *hint, hint* cause that one really looks good...

I have a carmate fg bonnet, it fitted very well no modification required, just paint fit some bonnet locks (aerocatch) and replace stock bonnet, easy... The only complaint would be the mesh they supplied on the vents was crap, so I left it off, the mount points for the mesh are ok'ish but I wish they wern't there at all..... I will also be getting made some fg panels mounted somehow to plug the vents for wet days. I don't like the mess the water makes, especially if your into keeping your engine bay clean and polished. otherwise decent fibreglass job.. good fit. can't comment on delivery as I bought it new off someone else. oh photos

watch auction sites and secondhand parts sellers and be patient... After a year of searching for my required rim I found it... it was worth it...

Yes a gloss coat should be done afterwards to protect the tint spray and to give it a glossy finish otherwise it looks a bit cheap and average...

Its done on the outer of the lens, I guess I could of done it inside the lens but that would mean breaking apart the assembly which is different to stock ones.. If your using the stock light it will definitely need to be done on the outside of course...

You can get the stuff off fairly easily, but I would recommend a clear gloss over the top cause it does dry almost matt... I do need to give them a gloss coat.. The lower black strip was done with vinyl... and thats using clear light assemblies with coloured glodes, I should take a phot of them light up in day to show you...