GTRNUR

I think cam choice is more about the applicaiton you have in mind for the car too. In reality I drive on the street, and on occasion on short sprint tracks (gocart tracks with tight corners), so low end response is what im after. I'd love to get to drive around some of the decent tracks you guys have access to in Sydney and Melb (and get to hold 3rd gear for more than 2 seconds), but thats a long way from where I live. So there is no point in setting up for that sort of track. While I have a power goal in mind which is easier to achieve with bigger duration cams, from what Im told I can achieve that figure with just the turbo's im using, so the additions i'll be making will be focused on building more low end torque instead. Given the choice I'd have gone with -5's or 2530's but the GTRS's were too good an offer to pass up at the time as I was able to get rid of a lot of my old R33 GTR parts in trade as part of the deal.

Cam changes are a little way off yet. I want to see how it goes with standard cams first, but at the most I figure poncams will be the go. I still want it to sound and idle as close to stock as is possible, and i want peak torque around 5000 rpm still, much like a stock engine. The re-sleeving the slave cylinder will be done in 2 days aparently as the shop doing the work is busy. So Im getting to have a break from cars for a bit. I totally understand about being over spending the money too but anything good does tend to hurt the wallet a little.

Im interested to see how things go with this, and especially to see what Paul finds in the engine that went wrong. A mate went through this a few months ago, except that he ended up with a piston that parted company from a rod, and a rod that wanted to feel daylight. Total loss of the engine, and the forensic analysis of the damage revealed it was either detonation induced, or simple component material failure. The damage was so bad when it happened at nearly 8000 rpm there wasnt much left to look at. You have been very lucky your motor is salvagable. My money is on incorrect bearing clearances, due to either machining and poor inspection practices, or the rod big ends that being out of round when torqued to spec (or over torqued rod bolts). Measuring bolt stretch before removal of the bolts and after could be interesting.

Attached is a pics of the thermostat, which is the billet block of alloy bolted onto the return to the dry sump tank. Hope its the right one you have, though failing that the aussie dollar is now buying more than 1 USD now too, so time to go shopping!

Im after a billet earls external inline oil thermostat, and a decent sort of core that will actually fit the front of the car without making it look radically modified. I am still aiming for everything to appear stock. Not sure about the size of the core I want but considering im using a thermostat, the bigger the better so long as it fits and is good quality. So earls or setrab probably. I use the same billet thermostat on my vw and its excelent (but expensive as I got it from summit racing). It uses -10 size fittings and perfect oil temps all the time. Not in any hurry to chase these parts up. Ive got plenty of things to do before I start stressing about oil cooling.

Update. After much arguing with the clutch adjustment I finally got the clutch to dis-engage. I now suspect there is some sort of issue with the clutch master or slave cylinders resulting in there not being enough fluid flow and thereby travel at the clutch throwout. So Im taking the master and slave cylinders off the car to get them re-sleeved tomorrow Now that the clutch is "mostly working", I actually got to go for a drive today! Just into the city and back, 20Km round trip in 60-80k zones. All in all the motor feels like it has quite a bit more torque than the standard 26 did, despite me having taken a good 5-10 degrees out of the ignition map around the low speed area. I especially like the urgency the engine has when I blip the throttle to downshift. Its a lot more like a responsive naturally aspirated car. No cooling issues to speak of, infact the nismo thermostat had the water temps dipping below 70 degrees as the MDF went off scale when I was on the highway. Amazing considering how much grout went into the block and the resulting reduced cooling area around the bottom of the cylinders. Ambient temp was 35 degrees. Oil temps were consistantly high for light driving (88 degrees), which is to be expected as the oil squirters will be working pretty much all the time with the higher volume tomei pump the engine is using. So the oil is constantly pulling extra heat from the piston crowns even when the engine isnt working that hard. Im still piecing together the external oil cooling components. That is all for now.

Alas still no test drive yet. Sorted out the odd idleing issue (carboned up spark plugs), bled the brakes and was about to go for a drive only to discover the clutch wont dis-engage. So from what I can work out there is 3 possible causes. Either the spline on the carrier is too long, one disc is in backwards on the clutch, or the temporary bolts that are used to compress the diaphram to allow the clutch together have been left inside the pressure plate. Any which way its a gearbox out job again. Thankfully a task I'm not doing! We'll see how I go about getting some more shop time again next week to sort it out. Beer Baron, PM me your postal address and I'll COD you the stereo at postage only cost. I tried to read the music off the hard drive but it seems to use a propriatory clarion hard disk partition table. Not readable by windows or lunix or any other tools I tried, so it looks like the music wont ever be able to be read off the drive.

I try to be mindful that a beetle is like the anti-christ as far as cars go, and a skyline is generally seen at the other end of that scale so Im not game to post more than a few pics of the bug. A full buld thread would be pushing it. I have the whole build documented on the aussieveedubbers forum though of your keen. You shoud know since your car does that regularly doesnt it? Not many real super cars up here, though I did see an AMG SL65 Black up here about a month ago. Tuning is a little ways off yet but when it happens it will be me with assistance from a local performance workshop (Lee Holman SVS) and their AWD dyno. I hope to be doing the run-in on their dyno next week all going well. The engine has wideband afr and twin egt sensors installed, and just need to wire the egt sensor modules back to the power fc aux box so tuning should be pretty straight forward. I still need to finish sourcing the remaining upgrade parts before I can do a power tune as well. So far I only have injectors, and have a few more bits to track down. Im not in any hurry though. I'd like the engine to prove itself just driving it normally before I go about wringing its neck.

Na... only sounds angry because im leaning over the engine with the camera when filming the vid. It sounds like a standard engine, except a slightly deeper note. The cams are stock vspec 2 r34, which may be out about 0.5-1 degree, as the length of the belt and adjustment of the tensioners to get the cam timing 100% is tricky. Ive yet to score some appropriate cam gears for it, but for the moment stock will do.

Just TE37's in titanium and a new factory splitter is all. I replaced the stereo that had something like 50 hours of japanese pop music on the hard drive... It had a lot of warren G rap music too, which made for a fun drive back home in the car. I gave the paint a much needed 2000 grit rub back and full polish to get rid of the water marks as well, so it looks pretty much like new, bar a few scratches here and there. Sound Fixed! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hydSzcA_Is Throttle response should be good. Runs a little better with full sequental injection (despite the air leaks), as opposed to the batch setup I had on the test rig.

Standby... fixing the sound... Yes its Beer Baron's old R34. I nearly said havent changed much on the car... then I re-thought that statement!

Vehicle must appear to be stock... Monster Garage! That has actually been a part of the goal from the start, as per what we are told of the RPMGTR RB29 apparently looking stock under the bonnet. If I can do the same and make 450awkw, well I think I will have really achieved something. Speaking of achiving, the car is now running. I finished the last of the exhaust mods this afternoon, started the car and bled the power steering. Then spent a few hours chasing a vacuum leak that continues to elude me. Im pretty sure that its the passenger side hot pipe hose that goes to the intercooler piping, and that I will be lengthening that pipe a little after all. Here's a video link of the engine running. Throttle response seems nice too, especially considering its runn a tame ~25 degrees ignition when the throttle is cracked open. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viAUjT4sNsQ The engine is now running with a power fc, and you can see that from the tracking when I rev the engine and close the throttle the airflow still remains high indicating the air flow sensors are still seeing airflow, so it over fuels the engine and nearly stalls it out. Unfortunatly ive got a full days work tomorrow so im not too sure i'll be chasing this hickup tomorrow afternoon, or if it will be a weekend task. Cheers, Ian

I think it was guilttoy that said he was using a gizmo knock box to more accurately monitor knock. It apparently outputs a 0-5V signal based on knock level, which can be logged if interfaced to some sort of existing after market management. I never got around to looking into this myself... but one day.

Picked up the car today at 10am, and started putting it together again after lunch. All in all I made good progress, and the only things remaining to do to prevent a road test was that I didnt buy enough coolant, and I need a flange to finish the exhaust. Re-installation of everything went really well. Im actually amazed at how well it all still fitted together. Ive taken a few pics of the re-assembly. The return spliter pipe from the bovs bolted straight on with just a little more bending of the front hose required. The 80mm pipe from the twin turbo pipe to the intercooler fitted without modification, as the standard piping on the passenger side of the car was plenty long enough. The tape line shows how much of the pipe actually was still inside the rubber hose. Getting the airbox back in was a little tricky, as the air supply hose to the front turbo has to be compressed a little. The spring in it prevents it from colapsing. I always have trouble getting that hose back onto the MAF sensors, so I dont think it was any more difficult than usual. The airbox bolted back in place with no alterations. Standard cold air scoop installed for the moment. I'd like to source a nismo one perhaps one of those fancy gruppe carbon air boxes for it down the track. Drivers side I had to cut and insert 60mm of 80mm tube into the return hose. The extra length required here was 25mm. New billion hose kit installed un-modified on the pwr radiator installed, no problems. If anything I could hace shortened the top hose about 10mm as the height puts it closer to the top hose connection on the radiator. I did actually start and run the engine for all of 5 seconds. Electrically everything worked, and oil pressure was good. Still have plenty to do before doing a road test though. Hope to be able to take it for a test drive on the weekend, and I'll be booking some dyno time mid next week to do the engine run in and more testing. I'll be taking video of the whole process. That is all.

There is a place for EBay parts.... and they call them GTST's. Nobody in their right mind puts ebay parts on their GTR(unless its wearing a genuine Nismo, or equalivent brand name).

Im picking up the car from the workshop tomorrow morning. The engine is in and the basics are all connected. Only have intercooler/intake piping to do over the next few days and with any luck i'll be driving on the weekend. The only fitment issue so far was the flanges on the trust dump pipes were close to the floor, so a a little bit of massaging fixed that. The Y pipe also needed about 2 inches of material added to get them low enough to round the bend and run parallel to the floor. Here's a couple of pictures of the re-assembly. Cheers, Ian

Here's the latest... The engine now has ceramic coated Trust 3" extension dumps bolted to the GTRS's. Ive not had the front pipe section coated yet as I'm not sure how much material will need to be added in order to get the pipes to clear the bodywork... factoring in the 20mm height gain of the high deck. The car is currently on the hoist and will with any luck have the engine back in there by wednesday next week. The workshop is flat out at the moment, but thats ok.. I'm not in any hurry. And here's a a few pics... (sorry to see your selling all your stuff too Richard, epsecially the prime garage engine).

I stripped out the engine bay of the car and removed the spliter and under trays yesterday in preporation for next week when the new engine will be fitted. The car will be trailered to a workshop this tuesday and with any luck will have the new engine installed by thursday. Im having CV's rebuilt and a bunch of other small small maintenance things done at the same time. The workshop doing the r&r are allowing me to take a few photo's along the way too, so i'll post up the installation images at some stage.

I love this century. I can work in the IT industry with computers all day and no longer the biggest geek in the room. I guess this is a side effect of getting old and hating text messaging...

What or who is LULZ? I'd be more inclined to remove the sharp edges from the combustion chamber around the valves and the edge of the quench pad before removing the quench pad itself.

Just had a read of the manual and it litterally is a service manaual, and doesnt cover engine removal like the R32/33 gtr manual. It does cover all the other R34 GTR specific systems like the R34 transfer case, MFD, super hicas, ecs, etc. I found it on http://www.scribd.com/doc/5030134/Nissan-R...nual-Supplement. Not sure if this is a copywright violation or not, though I feel Ive spent enough with Nissan over the years to warrant a free service manual. You can also download it here... http://www.odengines.com/R34_Supplement_1.pdf. Mods feel free to remove the link if necessary.

Still undecided, though it will probably end up being the workshops decision. Im against gutting the whole car, which is why I prefer the engine out the top as opposed to dropping the cross member, but im also consious about whats easier and less risky as far as accidental damage too. Maybe i'll just have to close my eyes when the workshop is doing that part... I can just as easily drop the sway bar off the car to make things a little roomier too. It would be a lot easier if i lived in sydney or melbourne where GTR specialst workshops are everywhere. I have finally tracked down a copy of the R34 GTR Supplement 1 service manual too, so hopefully that will be useful too. The standard R34 manual is mostly GTT and completely useless with no engine or driveline information. Wont be long till the transplant is done now though. Just waiting for my accountant to do this 1/4's BAS and I'll find out if the engine transplant will a nismo front bar swap and perhaps a couple of other nismo goodies.

Im about to fit my new engine to my R34 GTR and have been researching the best approach to go about doing it. First off, I will be having a workshop do all the main spanner work. The workshop is well eqiuipped, the car will be on a hoist and an engine trolly wil be available. The I'll be stripping out the engine bay and removing the radiator, front bar and splitter, and then trailing the car to the workshop. Based on my searches it is possible to remove and refit an engine by lifting the engine out the top of the car, and by doing it this way you dont have to mess with the hydraulic lines for the clutch and AWD system etc. But, I also found a mentioning that engines with sump extensions such as the Trust extension can be a pain to get in and out, as they will make contact with the cross member. ie: there isnt enough room to move. This could be an issue for me as I have the high octane extension on my sump which is just as tall as the trust, and wider. Also, RB30 based engines going into gtrs being a little taller can also make it a little more difficult to fit... so ive read. Now the workshop Im talking to about doing the work for me says the best approach will be to drop the cross member and remove the engine and gearbox as one piece from the car. Ive read mixed reports about how well this goes. While the engine is out i'll be replacing front wheel bearings and recoing the front drive shafts, cv's and boots etc. I also intend on doing a complete fluid change as well for the driveline. Im after some "informed" opinions about how to best go about doing this. Cheers, Ian

Well if you do actually do this, I can send you the gears from a genuine nitto pump to use as a baseline for the comparison. I dont care if they are tested to destruction, as the pump housing they came out of was damaged. (colateral damage from another failure, not the pump itself). Thanks Andrew for getting on here and helping to put an end to the rumor mill a little. It seems so much of the after market industry is surounded with a cloud of BS. This is where Nitto have it over the jap parts I think. As brands like HKS, TOMEI and JUN have been around so long, there is so much myth surrounding their products, and what limited real information there is you cant find translated to english. It seems that so much of what you find to read is just someone elses opinion. I wouldnt be surprised of Nitto have or will be doing their own comparison on these cheap pumps to see if their exclusivity agreement is holding up. I doubt Nitto would be able to release that data to the public though.

Motec... though technically thats not a modern dash... its a racecar dash. SOmeone in the projects section us fitting a 350z interior into an R32... that would be my choice for 'modernization'.