siksII

stock rev limit it 7000, dont know where all these guys are getting crazy figures from! note that high up in the rpm the tacho reads high. i have found generally if the tacho hits 7000 most of the time it has only revved to about 6700-6800. so 7000 real rpm will usually show into the red. the power dies off with stock turbo and motor after about 6500 so there is no point in revving it, if u shift up you will end up going faster.

that is true. it can happen to any tyre even on the car, with age sometimes they just go hard and slippery. My old yokohamas(came on the car) had no grip at all, whereas with my power even cheap tyres should have had better grip. they had gone hard and very slippery. with used tyres the chance is higher, plus they may be damaged and you wont know until something goes wrong. also may have been fried by previous owner when new, and gone off. that said, if i was feeling really tight, i would buy second hand to get me by but not for long, and i would be scared to push it!

I am aware of your support for the quiktrak way of doing things, and agree that it is a good system, (i spoke to you on caraudioaustralia i believe, i am redr33 on there ) in my experience either system is only as good as the installer and yes i know its all 'stealth' but even in the hardest of places it does not take long to disable or find, especially if you are not worried about breaking some interior bits while u are at it.. I have had quicktrak and knew where it was and where it is in most other cars.. and now have ezitrak... i reckon any theif with knowledge of skylines could find either one easy, either way any tracker is heaps better than a normal alarm, cant do much else maybe in sydney the coverage and service is not as good as in brisbane, because for my purposes, ezitrak has got my vote this time around. im sure we could have some good arguments over this for hours

its not the alarm that is important, it is the install. basically if u go to a normal place ie jbhifi and get an alarm and they do the install cheap(as usual) then u wont have good security no matter what alarm u have. With the install u get what you pay for, so if you want a good install(and therefore security) be prepared to pay lots more than normal.

mine needs a tune too. No idea on if it has been tuned, but it runs very rich and obviously not enough timing. I added 4 degrees last night with no sign on knock as usual so it must be way off. Maybe the base ingition timing has been pulled back(CAS)

Sorry cubes, i honestly dont remember is was about 2 years ago, and the only picture i can find with the turbo in it u can only see the intake side and its too far away to see any detail either But i remember checking the intake blades they were definetly some type of plastic. just by looking u cant really tell but when u touch them u can tell. my current r33 has stock turbo, but is an earlier model than my old one, this one is an early 96 model(still series 2), i can have a look at the exhaust housing on this one (if i can see it properly!!!) and tell u what it says if you want?

aluminium will work fine, and look good. Otherwise u can use stuff called formashield from clark rubber, i made one out of this stuff with wire reinforcing. it looks bad bad does the job 3" piping stuff u can get from hardware stores just go have a look around a choose something suitable. If you did not have a fmic you could just use the stock airbox.

i have a front mount and full exhaust, and i run no more than 10psi. u might be lucky at higher boost but i doubt it if you drive it hard. with stock computer u will find it should run like crap at higher revs at more than 9 or 10psi so there is no point. then again some stock ecu's seem to be ok with it. in fact i ran 14psi for 6 months (10,000kms) on my old gts-t before realising and it was ok but i would not risk it on my new one.

i checked my old car's turbo, it was a 10/96 model r33 gtst and it definetly had a nylon compressor wheel.

powerfc and cam gears at the same time, because if u get cam gears later u will need to retune. i wouldnt bother with pods if u have the std airbox. why bother with the g-tech? just save that money for going to the drag races instead.

it does not matter what fuel or what u are, if u run 14psi the turbo is sure to die soon after some hard use. do a search on stock turbo and u will see why, but simply put, the exhaust wheel is ceramic, and does not handle heat well.

i havent seen one thats wrong, have you? the only thing i notice is that they are slow to react (electric) and the markings dont give enough detail.

10psi for me, never any more. and if u reached the top of fifth(250km/h) u have your speed limiter removed at higher boost you should worry about your turbo not your motor. the standard ecu will go rich and retard and it should feel slow anyway.

so i guess some of them are laughing, getting paid to remove the gas, and then reselling it!

yeah more gas going through it i guess u cant help the extra noise... i have stock turbo and 10psi so im sure that helps with the quiet-ness the cat back came with the car and im sure its at least 5 or six years old so if anything its probably louder now then when new!

the muffler is definetly straight through with no tapering at all.. and it does not have a center muffler, only one of those skinny hot dog things that is about half an inch thick around the pipe. in my car the intake and engine noise is way louder than the exhaust, which is the opposite of most others ive experienced.

correct, if the blow off valve was connected it would hold boost better between changing up gears.

i have a full 3 inch exhaust from turbo back, and the muffler has 4 inch tip. not sure about the cat though. mine is one of the quietest i have heard, not much noise on or off throttle it doesnt even have a proper muffler in the middle so it must be a good mufller, i think its an apexi super megaphone. although, above around 5500 it changes tone and goes quite loud, people driving behind me say it sounds like i have an external gate at high revs

no, it goes back through the intake system, and usually makes a flutter noise as the air travels back through the turbo and slows it down. it does not leave the intake system. best to hook it back up.

i have seen a few properly fried but yes the major problem is people think they cant fry a speaker with too little power, big mistake lol. i think the first properly fried speaker i saw was an 8inch sub bought from tandy, power by a BOSS amp, the amp certainly showed the sub who was BOSS lol.

i will try it next time i drive, although my exhaust is nearly silent most of the time anyway so it will be hard to tell... i always leave it in gear until im nearly at a standstill, i dont trust the car to stay on when dropping to idle especially with the random turning off problems that people get.. edit: and how do u explain bens exhaust noise when injectors are at 0? surely just the air is not making the exhaust sound loud?

so in theory if this is the case, there would be NO exhaust gases coming out of the exhaust when injectors are at 0%, just air? In that case the exhaust would all of a sudden go very quiet would it not, and i dont think that happens....???

so you are saying there is physically NO fuel being injected when they injector duty shows zero? that would mean the equivalent of turning the ignition off would it not?

did they blow because of a quality issue? usually u blow a speaker because of too little or much power, or wrong frequencies, i doubt it would be the speakers fault.

that is true, but i would expect that (most) theives would assume a normal alarm and take off with the car without such a device, and in sydney it would not take long for them to get out of the coverage area. another main point is that in sydney anyway the service is not always reliable (the opposite of what u want for this sort of thing!) and with either system as a standalone solution if its an experienced theif they will be able to start and take off with the car no problems, just hope that u can track their position after they have taken off..