GTAAAH

k so tried the coolant fillup in the overflow, ended up empty, i think your right with the cap, trying a 1.1 bar cap, hopefully it helps out,cheers

just had someone offer me 14k not cool

Water temp is constantly on half ( like right where it should be) and oil temp ranges a bit because his gauge is a bit dodgy, but generally around half, sometimes flicks up to full until you tap it back down though it's not a proper reading

Hey, my mates got a r32 gtr, has a standard engine in it with n1's (got like 275awkw on 18psi) fuel reg, aluminium radiator, power fc, few other things and we've noticed that every time he gets to work after sitting in traffic his overfill bottle overfills to the point theres water squirting out of the top of it and out onto the pillars.. I've noticed with mine it filling up but it drains back into the radiator.. Is this normal? He's running correct coolant mix (whereas mine is currently a bit low on mix but still not having problems) and his temp gauge always stays smack in the middle, car runs fine

got a heap of shots from 500 dollar bomb to this but rest are at home

thanks for that man

Anyone got one? i remember seeing one ages ago around here but i couldnt find it.. It illustrated the twin turbo system and how the piping ran etc etc

thanks, bump, mann i hate recessions, the prices on gtr's have gone spaz as

oh and here i thought my plates were original engine was rebuilt by dom at protek automotive in preston, it's still under parts warranty and has a lifetime warranty if it is damaged due to their mistake

Reason for selling: had this for sale up on here a while ago but took it back off when i decided to keep it, also couldn't edit my add anymore so am posting a new topic. Have changed my mind and want a house instead.. After selling this car i will still owe around $8k in loans on it >< Make: Nissan Skyline GTR, 1993, r32 Milage: 142,000 km's (about 6000km's since purchasing 2 years ago) Colour: gunmetal Location: Melbourne RWC supplied? Yes Currently registered? Yes Price: $20,000 Contact: PM preferably Comments / Modifications Engine was rebuilt 2500 KM's ago, Car is in VGC throughout, paint is in great condition, diffs and gearbox are also in great condition, all panels are straight, and engine is built for high power. One of the seats has a tear in it and this is the only problem i can think of. Modifications: - Engine just rebuild 2500 km's ago at a price of $10400, I have full receipts Performance: Car has GAB Coilovers, standard rims with some decent tyres (+ a few spares of the same brand/size) and new pads/rotors. Standard turbo's (replaced one with the rebuild because it was on the way out) CP Pistons Eagle H beam con rods New main/rod bearings bored and honed, surfaced, crack tested block Linished and balanced crank ARP Head Studs Reco'd head, valves and reset valve clearances New timing Belt Adjustable cam gears Tomei metal headgasket N1 Oil Pump and drive New water pump New engine mounts New tensioner and idle pully Heavy duty clutch, cushioned so it's not a pig to drive but it will handle good power (800km's ago) R33 AFM's Twin *drift* pod filters JJR Coil Packs Has a 3" catback system with a hkz super dragger muffler, sounds awesome Thick aluminium racing radiator Full service including oil filter, plugs, coolant, p/s fluid Audio: a new Pioneer head unit ($300 unit) exelsior 12"kenwood sub (was top of the range when i bought it a year or 2 back, sounds awesome) a kenwood KAC-1204 amplifier (400 retail) Also has original flare still. It made 220kw on 10psi on standard turbos, turbos were never run over 10psi GTAAAH Plates are included if you'd like them Engine was built to handle good power, i had plans for twin 2530's and about 350-400awkw eventually but ended up in loads of debt so now i'm gonna sell it and get a home owners grant. I wish this exact car had been on the market when i was originally looking to buy one. It's in great condition, still looks stock (never been pulled over) and has a well built, strong motor to handle upgrades later (so you dont have to worry about another rb26 blowup) I have done most of my km's driving to and from work, and have never taken it to track etc. THe previous owner used it for the same purposes and his wife used it for groceries (dead set, gtr grocery cart, blah)..

+1?

Ah spewing it's over shoulder view, i loved the camera angles in original one Def not a real res evil game if it's got 6 hour play time i just beat res evil 0 on gamecube again, sick as puzzles, and the camera view is scary as hell, then you get stuck wandering around for ages till you realise you have to push the statue onto the dog, grab the spray from it's collar, spray the weeds twice, turn the clock to 2pm and then run through the hallway while avoiding the windows The behind view ones they have out atm are high selling though i guess and that's the reason capcom's gone towards it.. sucks! wish they'd release red evil 1/2 for PC with better graphics, dwnlded em the other day and.. 640X480 = not cool

sold

Is this like res 4 or like the early ones? I hated res 4 the over shoulder looking one, was just a fps.. love the old puzzles in the first ones, the frozen camera angles and the slow turning used to make em freaky as hell.. is that stuff still in it? Also it looks like it's coming on PC down the track which is sick

This is true, just had me totally confused, thought it might be a common problem, low bass frequencies screwing with in car things.. i want to turn the gain up on my amp more (theres a fair bit to go) but i'll have to sort out exactly what is happening first i guess cheers dude

Ahh yeh didn't think of something like that.. Guess it would have to be actual ECU to be causing 4wd problems *and* stuttering problems.. ecu is ages away from it though.. i'd have to run the diagnostics while the bass was on i guess? Never ran them before because they're so difficult to get started ;p

One of my mates sent me this song on msn the other day, has some really low frequency bass on it (makes u feel sick after a bit), and sick bass across the range, anyway.. I was driving with it on (got a kenwood excelsior sub and a 500w mono block kenwood amp, new one worth 450ish, gains only at like half so it's not insanely loud but bassy) and was coming onto boost when my 4WD turned off and it started spinning.. i was like wtf, never happened before.. Anyway, so like 20 minutes later i turned it up again, was just cruising on the high way, and the car started stuttering, turned it down went away.. then another 10 minutes same story but on acceleration Anyway, i don't honestly think it's a power usage thing (brand new larger than standard century battery), the lights aren't dimming at all and i listen to hardstyle (which has very consistent low bass) and rap with the volume up as loud for far longer than i listen to this one song.. Anyway my question is, could the bass being low frequency be screwing with my hicas system somehow? like the G sensor for the 4wd system is in the boot isn't it? Wiring is all good, it's not wrapped around my ecu or anything, and i dont notice any of the other effects of not having enough power going to sub/amp (my old golf used to almost turn off when the bass kicked in) willing to upload the song.. It's no biggy but i just thought it was weird.. might have to look at a capacitor if it's screwing stuff up, just odd that nothing else like the lights seem effected.. and that it's loud but still only half gain up

err, i actually cant remember what it was, for the first 1000 km's i didnt take it much over 3.5k, think it was 5k .. i can't remember what the limit was for the first 500km's though, at 500 it had the head bolts retorqued, i only drove it on the freeway and up and down hills up to the 500 mark.. From memory he said don't baby it too much but dont drive it hard

Yeh first 1000km's i wasn't allowed to take it into the rev range at all, at 1500 ( i think it was) they changed out the run in oil and put shell helix in and thats what it's running atm

haha, i just found out citybank will take on my loan for 7% less interest PA than commonwealth, so the money i'll save will pay for the turbo (eventually) + then everythings new and i can stop driving it like i'm scared it'll blow up all the time.. + dad's loan service is 4% PA so no hurry there

bahh good points made, going to get a loan extension tonight, 2860-5's, pfc and a tune to keep the power below 300kw's till i can afford the z32s, injectors and pump

Yeh, but then i'd have to baby it for months until i could afford a power fc and a tune (thats the $4k), and even then have to have it tuned carefully so i wasnt maxing out the fuel system..

Yeh i would have liked to put some new ones on but i owe the old man $10k for the rebuild as it is, still paying the car off, couldnt afford another 4k, I assume they just checked them for play and checked the condition of the wheels on em, i believe the majority of these things only fail because they're being boosted too high, i'm not exactly pushing the car and the boost peaks at 10psi so it should be right until i can afford some new ones

Haven't looked at the plugs yet, i'll check em out tonight when i top the oil up and get back to here It doesn't seem to be blowing much oil out the tailpipe, but it normally runs rich as hell so it's hard to tell what colour it is.. Not driving it very hard, mainly just to work and back and not revving it much yet either (for some reason i'm still scared it's going to blow up) cheers

Eh don't say that, that would not be cool.. The workshops rebuilt a heap of rb26's though so i think they wouldnt make mistakes (or i hope) "Mine took a while to stop using oil. Oil usage was at its highest in the first 1000km's and then slowly tapered off until ~5000km's is where it wasn't using any." ah thats good to hear, I'll hope mine does the same and tapers to 0 usage, i did spend 1000km's doing all the ring bedin processes so assumed they'd be fully bedded already.. It's reasonably slappy on startup, pistons are oversized CP items "your a crazy man for putting standard turbos back onto a fresh motor!!!!" (i don't know how to multi quote shhh) Yeh i'm only running 10 psi on them and they've been thoroughly checked and are in good condition so i'm not so worried about them blowing up on me..