GTAAAH

oooh yeh i remember this... used to set up heaps of bots and sp it up, haven't played it in ages (last time i played it our house didnt have the internet ;O) sick as game!

ahh ok, cheers =)

I've done it myself and i'm not that crash hot with cars: Drain fluids and take off hoses, unclip bottom fan shroud (from underneath) undo bolts up top, disconnect the little temp sensor down the left side and it should just lift out, then reverse for reinstalling, might take a bit of shaking if it's a thicker one than standard.. Also theres a bolt you'll need to undo should be on the left side of the engine, and have a little arrow pointing to it cuationing you against opening when hot, it's the air release so you can fill it up properly.. You'll have to let car warm up a bit and wait till water comes out the air release, then seal it and fill up the radiator some more.. hope that helps.. also from memory the tectaloy is like $20 a bottle right? If it is then it's the stuff that will mix with any other fluid so you don't worry about that.. some of the cheap stuff doesn't mix well, can carode stuff

as in close helicopter bang bang bang like a drum or far away clattering? if it's bang bang bang close up i'd give the zorst a thorough checking, or is it more of a chattering or ticking? hehe not enough descriptive words for engine sounds

ahh ok, thanks for the help guys, one more question.. the 2860-7's ive decided to go with (so i can keep the stock supporting mods) but are they in a kit, like i have heard the 2530 sets you buy are actually smaller than the 2530 singles you buy.. i was looking on a few sites and there doesnt seem to be any sets of 2860-7's for sale only single? (in HPIAB.com they don't mention rb26 application) just wanted to price up a set

wow 300 on stock afm/ecu/injectors, that is fair sweet might have to do just that

Lol, fair true, maybe his fingers slipped

Yeh like he said except i think the 2860-7's i'm talking about won't be the nissan OEM ones but rebuilt ones.. pretty sure thats what the disco potato ones are anyway, anyone know if theres a turbo size in between the -7's and the 2860-5's/2530?

oh wow really, didn't think they'd even be close to as responsive as the stock ones Stock ones are as responsive as a stock rb20 i'd say so that's sweet, the 2530's wouldn't be much less responsive than one of those 220kw 32's I've seen some people with GT-SS's and -7's only come up with 290/300kw and was a bit worried, 2530's are a pretty safe 350kw bet, theres nothing in between the gtss's/-7's and the 2530/-5's?

Hey just a few quick questions RE: lag.. I recently built my gtr up pretty well and now want to put some power through it.. I'm sticking with the twin turbo setup and am currently tossing up between 2860-7's or 2860-t5's/2530's. I just want to know the difference between 290-310kw's and 340-370kw's.. fastest car i've ever been in is a mates 32 gtr which had n1's and around 260kw.. Anyway basically, is there a way sum1 can compare this to a r32, with an rb20 powered engine? I've been in a few 220/230kw ones and used to drive a 165/180kw one (r34 turbo).. As it is currently a mates 170/180kw gts-t with a 34 turbo on it keeps up with me (not off the line obviously) the GTR running 11psi so i'm not so sure it will be a very accurate way of comparing it but.. What i'm wanting to know is more the lag difference, will the 50kw difference in a gts-t with mods listed be the same as a 50kw difference in a gtr with mods lifted, and at higher power lvls? Will 350kw be crazily laggy? As in no more cornering? Because i don't want to just go 300kw's after having spent all that cashola on a fair decent rebuild, but if it's gonna take the fun out of driving it, and it's gonna make accelerating out of corners too difficult i might have to.. Also, gtr fuel pumps aren't good for that kind of power ay? Cheers

Oh dude that sucks hard, i haven't seen it in greensy/eltham/monty area in ages, will keep an eye out, hope it was insured for a nice agreed value? On the + side it might end up saving you the job of selling the car? That's so wack

bump, i'm over driving -_- cars in melbs

Yo, i have a cushioned button clutch i got about 1000 km's ago, it's quiet when i'm not moving but under load like driving slowly in 1st gear it hisses reasonably loudly.. is the "cushion" an air cushion or something? i dunno if that makes much sense.. or can sum1 elaborate a bit on what a cushioned button clutch is? It is pretty heavy but it isn't straight on and off and u can ease it on pretty easily

Car: Rebuilt 32 gtr running standard turbo's and 11 psi, 3" catback Gas of Choice: BP ultimate 98 $ Per Tank: $120 like 65 litres i think Kilometers Per Tank (Based On Driving Area & Driving Style): i got 600 on my first tank on the highways mainly 450 around town lil highway bit of stop and start and giving it a bit

pff doubt it's a bad day i've never seen anyone in an office environment cop it that bad, it's all just a big power trip with some of them, some of the most racist arrogant pricks i've met have become cops, theres no personality test, if u feel like being a dog it's the ultimate job

ahh ok thanks guys, i ended up using some bricks and doing that (don't know why it didnt occur to me) currently working on making some really small wooden ramps which should work

Um no return valve he said?, has it got an aftermarket bov or something? or is the recirc pipe missing off the bovs? because if that's the case and it's dumping to atmo that will be the cause of the stalling and you will need to get it tuned, via a pfc or a remap to fix it..

Hey i'm trying to get the front of my gtr off the ground and struggling, (i think it's standard or just lower than standard ride height) our ramps are too steep and i cant fit our floor jack under the front so i'm looking for a place to jack it off the side.. theres a bit of a space on the sill but part of the plastic from the standard sideskirts overlaps onto the area.. i can't see anywhere else i can fit it, the jack won't reach under far enough to reach the arms or anything Also i'm trying to remove my front lip and theres these bolts across the front (3) that are horizontal, when i try to losen them they spin around with the bolt and some plastic part (plastic grub or something) inside the lip spins around.. any ideas?

yeh like godzilla32 said you can get em reshimmed and they'll quieten down, mine used to be insanely loud but i can barely hear them now after they were reshimmed while engine was being built.. think i got quoted something like 600-800 just to do lifters tho at some stage

might just have to take it to a mechanic or something get them to look at it no one seems to know

bump, need the $ hate owing the old man so much Car has 1000 km's on it now

K so i have GAB (Gabriel?) suspension on my r32 gtr and i am wondering how to adjust it.. It's just adjustable tension i'm guessing, not ride height.. The car looks like it's sitting standard ride height but the front barely bounces when i put weight on it, the back moves a bit more but not much, seems to be alot tighter than what i assume is standard. So i've uploaded a pic of what the adjusters look like.. i'm not sure if the ones on the nuts at the front work as they seem to spin really easily? Front don't seem to have an adjuster on the actual unit whereas back do.. There are settings between 1 and 8 on back nob, it was on 2, i reset to 5 noticed no real difference any suggestions? Thanks

have all receipts for work, cars located in northern suburbs

Make: Nissan Skyline GTR, 1993, r32 Milage: 140,000 km's Colour: gunmetal Location: Melbourne RWC supplied? Yes Currently registered? Yes Price: $20,000 Contact: PM preferably Comments / Modifications: Freshly rebuilt 500 k's ago, have only done about 6000 km's since purchasing it, it leaned out too much a while ago and 3 of the pistons melted so i haven't put too many k's on it. Guy i purchased it off used it as a bit of a run around, car has a scratch on front bumper and lip and next to rear headlight (that will probably need fixing to look good, it's about a $600-700 job at most beaters) Other than that it's straight, paint is in good condition, few minor dents, nothing really noticeable. Interior is in good condition but drivers seat has some wear (partially torn patch about 3 " by 1") Gearbox and diffs etc have all been checked out and are in good condition. Car has no crash history Very original car, good if your looking for power but a standard look (i haven't been pulled over since buying it, used to get pulled over all the time in my old gtst) Modifications: - Engine just rebuild 500 km's ago with full receipts at a price of $10400 Car has GAB Coilovers, standard rims with some decent tyres (+ a few spares of the same brand/size) and new pads/rotors. Standard turbo's (replaced one with the rebuild because it was on the way out) CP Pistons Eagle H beam con rods New main/rod bearings bored and honed, surfaced, crack tested block Linished and balanced crack ARP Head Studs Reco'd head, valves and reset valve clearances New timing Belt Adjustable cam gears Tomei metal headgasket N1 Oil Pump and drive New water pump New engine mounts New tensioner and idle pully Heavy duty clutch, cushioned so it's not a pig to drive but it will handle 320kw (800km's ago) R33 AFM's Twin *drift* pod filters JJR Coil Packs Has a 3" catback system with a hkz super dragger muffler, sounds awesome - Full service including oil filter, plugs, coolant, p/s fluid Engine was built to handle good power, i had plans for twin 2530's and about 350-400kw eventually but ended up getting poor so now i'm gonna sell it and buy i don't know what, will have a dyno next week need to get a few more k's up on it Just put in a new Pioneer head unit ($300 unit) and have a exelsior kenwood sub (was $240 about a year ago, sounds great) and a brand new kenwood KAC-1204 amplifier (400 retail) that i haven't used and haven't installed yet Also comes with plates GTAAAH Few pics below of the rebuild and the scratches on frontbar Images:

take it to a tuner and they'll be able to remove it.. i think you need the ecu remapped to set it up though