MR331307

Didnt take 290 runs only took 5 the reason why ive done 290 passes is trying different fuels different tunes different boost controllers to see what works etc.I am in reasearch on what will work buddy Unlike you. I think you should stick to typing rubbish on a keyboard.

where abouts you from buddy

OK 1)AFM not to great on lasting a long period without Stuffing up like GETTING DIRTY ETC if they get dirty they dont read Correctly and Stuff the tune 2)The difference Between the PFC AFM computer VS Haltech,HYDRA computers is that With a Map Sensor the load Maps are more Accurate.You can fine Tuning alot more Efficently. 3)The POWERFC wont idle if you have 1500cc injectors as the rate of tuning in the maps cannot go small enough 4)Software updates and Firmware updates are always Upgradable in these ECUS 5)A car with a AFM if you remove a intercooler pipe it wont idle it will stall reason being is that it wont read the Vacum maps Correctly due to the Air intake Being in front of the turbo instead of in the manifold.you remove it on a Map sensor car the car will idle and rev to suit.as you tune the Map to suit Rev To PSI instead of Rev To TPS or afm Voltage ETC. 6)Data Logging on these Computers is a beneft 7)Abilty of changing the type of Ignition you are using ETC if you are running standard coil packs and they stuff up instead of buying splitfires or secondhand coils you can go to FORD buy EL coil packs of the XR6 motor for $300 and you will have a much better ignition system and will be able to change unlike the PowerFC One benefit the PowerFC has is that it is Premapped and does have Knock Sensors But so does the HYDRA and they are both Plug in Would you like me to keep on going Champ as im getting tired i do have to go work tomorrow

ok Ill give you some RING HALTECH AND ASK THEM They will explain to you why there computer is better then the power FC

Buy a Knock sensor Guage and Sensor and runing it like a boost Guage Champ I am not to sure who sells them but they are available Post up how it goes

Nah buddy The reason why everyone runs them is because they are cheap Far enough they come with a base tune but this is only good pretty much for a standard Skyline They are good for people learning to tune ETC If people actually Look at Performance EFI cars in Australia Serious cars arent runing AFM all are running Map Sensors The tuning Capabilites of A map Sensor car are alot better.If you pop off a intercooler pipe You can still run the car,Accuratly control Boost through the Computer. ETC I dont have to explain to you If you think you are so good with Cars and computers you should Realise Which Type of Load Sensing is better 99% of the new Computers on the market are straight Plug ins for a Skyline GTS OR GTR I wouldnt go past these computers And prices of the computers are just as cheap Mircotech $1200 Haltech $1800 HYDRA $1800 As for Knock sensors The hydra runs them and retards timing or adds fuel depending on the way you tune it to react to the knock If you want a knock sensor Run a Seperate Knock Guage and sensor and watch it like your boost guage PS a computer with hand controller is a computer For a CHILD

Buddy best way to tune it Is on the dyno and bump the timing up till it starts Knocking I wouldnt listen to some of the people around as they think they know what the limits are on every Engine Just dont over rev it and watch Oil pressures Fuel Pressures Water Temps And Take into Consideration Fuels intake Temps People have said to me I am running to much timing Bla bla bla.I have done 290 dyno passes on a Rb25 and have driven it over the last month and a half everyday with 18 psi of boost making anything from 490 to 500 hp at the wheels. Watch the factors above and go for your life

Buddy Any computer running a AFM is rubbish.Stick to computers running map sensors,you never have problems with them. use a haltech E6X or E11 I have plenty experience with them and they are unreal computers I am currently running a HYDRA computer.Which is like the E11 but is much better for a street car.No more Manual Boost Ts Or having to spend money on a Eboost just all runs off the computer. All Good Computers Have outputs for NOS,Turbo Timers,ETC and you can change Coilpacks ETC So if you are going to buy a computer Spend the money on either Haltech or HYDRA If you dont want to spend as much Buy a Mircotech Dont waste your money on a powerfc or getting your standard Computer Retuned.

If someone can explain to me how to upload them Then yeah i got 2 clips 13 psi and 18 psi

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No heat shielding around the POD No visible ambient air feed 30 degrees Ambient Air Temperature 49 degrees Inlet Air Temperature Listen buddy if your so confident in your car LNEMUP Any time Wheres your so called RB31 In a dream or what For the record My dyno is Located in a sound proof room with extraction fans and Cooling fans.So on a hot day The tempertures do rise in that room I dunno what environment you live in but im sure when it gets hot the Temperture Rises and no i dont run a pod filter cover as yet but when im at the drags my light is comming out and and ram tube is going on so that will bring my air temps down CYA at the track Hope someone will LNEMUP

Yeah sorry champ i was comming on sunday but on sat when i was checking my car on the dyno for the last time i realised it was leaking boost and then i had a look why and found my plenium was cracked so i couldnt repair it in time and gave up i got some street slicks today and am fitting them to my car so i can take it drags on wenesday i will post the time slip on thursday I will be using Launch control Rev limiter so if people are there watching dont think im being a idiot reving its head off

Hello Just fixed the Boost Problem Electronic Solenoid runing off the computer making full 18 psi at 4200 Have done 292 Dyno Runs so far and has been Driven on the street everyday ripn burnouts and drifting.I am currently Fitting some slicks so i can take it to wenesday night Street meet at eastern Creek Lets see how it goes and how long it lasts Doughboy is posting the dyno Printout

I got one PM me if you want it for $60

MORE PARTS ADDED EVERYTHING MUST GO

BUMP MUST GO

SIDE SKIRTS SOLD MAKE OFFERS ON PARTS

STEALTH BOV SOLD

BUMP Need to get rid of this stuff Make some offers Reasonible OFFERS only

i have the pipe and rubber intake pipe as one i want $40 for it all if you want it let me know

MORE PARTS ADDED make some Reasonible offers as i need to get rid of alot of this stuff

The Standard BOV is awaiting Money Transfer

The stealth BOV IS Awaiting Money Transfer

Interested in selling just the head Whats the cheapest you will sell the package for

U still got the rims Have you got some photos PM ME