D_Stirls

What you are in effect making is a GT2876R, they are a crap miss-matched turbo as the small turbine can't produce enough drive to drive the compressor wheel to full efficiency. The biggest i would go with a NS111 turbine wheel is a 71mm compressor which will give you in effect a GT2871R. If you remember Ryan was running a GT2871R on his R33 and he was making 250 kw with stupid response. I would keep the T3 housing and buy a GT2871R CHRA and make up what Ryan was running Garrett elude to the miss-match of the GT2876 when they state on the website;

Cheers, There are a fair few people who don't know who i am at the moment.

There is something else going on there, in the past with the older version there was around 10% difference between dyna pack dynos and other drive on chassis dynos due to no correction for wheel slippage, but the newer versions seem to be pretty much the same as most mainlines. Your talking about a 24% difference which sounds to me like something else is wrong. Also 162 would be just under what would be expected from a standard auto R34 (don't know what car his is) or is about right for a stock untouched R33. so what mods is he running, has his car been tuned? is it running more boost? was it running the same boost in Willals dyno?

if you went for a twin scroll GT3071R with a 0.78 housing you could get close to 300kw with cams and it would have a stupid amount of response. but this will be an expensive route as you need a twin scroll exhaust housing and you need twin gates to do it properly. Another turbo that people haven't suggested is ether a TD06SL2-20G for just under 300kw or a T67 for over 300 with standard cams. Both these will need external gates as both the Trust and T3 flanged housings are external gate housings.

dbl pst

Your correct chad

AFM's aren't really a limitation as there are VQ maps offered by nistune for the ford lightning AFM's which support 800hp, so with a GTR you could run up to 1600hp using the lightning AFM's. Also if you have the VQ raw data you can program your own VQ map for any AFM you like.

the fact that you can have your cake and eat it to???

You could have a "fresh" Bottom end for around $1000. Just hone the bores Though that bore look stuffed and will need a bore which means you will need oversized pitons. But you can find Rb25 Blocks in good condition for around $200 though. I think Steve has a blown AWD RB25 engine, see if he'll sell you the block. Bearings either Clevite, ACL or Factory. Rings Balance the new piston (and rod if your replacing the rod as well) Gasket kit and whack it back together.

you really should balance the new piston the to other 5. Since you are going to have the engine out i would whack some rings and bearings in it and perhaps give it a light hone. It will cost you a couple hundred more and then you will have a fresh bottom end.

I thought that the silver one was this one, but it's not;

I'd suggest not putting a picture with your number plate on it in the same thread as the parts list for the car. Regency can had have defected cars (well actually frozen their rego') via the mail. Infact i'd suggest not posting your plates in any picture on the internet. Being a P-Plater it'll just be a matter of time before you are pulled over hut having said that the Engine Bay looks remarkably standard for a car that would be making around 280kw maybe more; but if you do get sent to regency your still screwed.

What are you worried about the timing marks for your CAS for as you should use a timing light for the timing. Setting up the timing is easiest thing that you have ahead of you. The timing marks on the cam gear backing plate are factory markings and it won't matter what head you have on there they will match up with the cam gears. As a double check you can count the teeth between the marks.

As the bloke who calibrated mine last time said, there are two things you never lend out; Your wife And your calibrated tools

What are you using for boost control? Cold nights cause higher boost due to cooler denser air, and a cooler intake charge also means higher cylinder pressures. So if it is Knock that could be what was causing it. As said above though, at this stage it's only guess work.

Have you got the Factory Manual? If not, get one and follow that. If you follow every step you can't go wrong.

Power-tune did sets from memory

Well in that case you don't need an account on SAU then do you. Sic em' Mods'

Planning to go to the Ale House for a Schnitty when i get to my "Goal Weight", If i get to 80kg's before the 25th i'll be there. LOL

From the pit wall;

The injector signals are changed by swapping the wires in the loom. Although since the RB20 ECU runs batch fire you don't necessarily have to swap them. Also the VG30 ECU's are the same for DE/DET and Auto/Manual as long as it was an early 8 bit one then it'll be fine, apparently they went to 16 bit later which won't work with the board. I just sold one for $150. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/ECU-ID.PDF

yep it's up to the tuner what cells are activated for the knock feedback. This will help i think; This is the ignition Map for a Z32, the red squares are are where the ECU accepts knock feedback and the blue squares are where it doesn't, but the tuner can change the squares if they desire.

I had a bit of a read last night about the knock control issue that was brought up above. The knock control is used only in a thin band of load/RPM but it is selectable. By clicking on a load cell you can tell the ECU whether you want to have knock feedback in that part of the map or not. Generally tuners turn it on through before and after peak torque as this is when you are encountering max VE (Volumetric Efficiency) and therefore you are getting the best cylinder filling and the highest cylinder pressures. So this band is where you will encounter knock. The knock feedback is turned off higher in the rev range to do the background noise being too great and giving false knocks, so you don't want knock control in this region anyway.

Out of that report; I don't like the sound of the bit that's highlighted; The Flex Fuel cars change their maps according to a sensor in the tank that tells the ECU what Ethanol content the current batch of fuel has. We don't have that luxury, if we tune our cars on say E72 batch fuel and the next batch is E84 or vice-versa we'll have problems. Just remember that the fuel in the main stream stations is designed for FLEX-FUEL cars; and they don't guarantee an Ethanol percentage as the cars it's designed for do need a set percentage, But we do. I'll be getting mine for Scotchers when i swap over.

What do you mean by this? There are two completely different Maps. One regular map and knock map both maps are 16x16. When a the knock count gets about a certain point it switches from one regular to the knock map which has all the 16x16 resolution that the primary map has and isn't limited to 4500rpm. Are you saying that after 4500rpm it won't switch to the knock map?