D_Stirls

You may find that they just slide off the stub axle, if they are the same as the S13 ones. On my car i took the hub off the stub axle and they are just press fitted on so I just worked them back and forward (CW and CCW) until they loosened up enough to slide them off. EDIT!! You should have just bough my complete 5 stud hub assemblies i have in my shed for a R33, would have saved you all this bother.

I think you will find that if you have slotted rotors you will get to run longer before you have fading issues. The slots will help remove any glazing that the high temps will cause as well as not allowing the outer surface to get as hot as the outer most material will be constantly removed. Also the slots release the gas pressure that builds up between the pad and the rotor on heavy braking.

Hey Michael do you have your rotors slotted?

they should just slide off once the nut has been undone, Are we talking the front hubs on a 4wd or Rwd. 4wd are pressed in IIRC and the fronts just slide off with the Rwd. EDIT!! For some reason i thought you were talking the front hubs, The rear hubs are going to be tight and will probably need to be pressed out.

Seems to be just power and earth is needed, the Sensor just clips in to a loom and if you are going to use the Wide band to simulate the narrow band signal then there is one other wire than need to be wired in, but since your running a GTR you would need two so i would suggest getting the bung welded into the dump where the two front pipes meet. Here's the manual; AEM_UEGO_Wide_Band_AFR_Installation_Instructions_30_4100.pdf Still looking for cheaper prices, it's looking like they will be at or around the $200 mark from Australia. Hearing back from a dealer in the next couple days.

Can one of the Mod's change the price to $210 from $180. I just heard back from the place that i was going to get them from and they don't ship internationally. The cheapest i can get them for in Aust' is $210.

i was doing 1:23's with A1RM'a and never encountered any fade, that's after 9 constant laps in the 1:23 range. Also my biasing is completely wrong so I've basically only got front brakes

Hello all, I'm going to be ordering a wideband O2 in the next 2 weeks and have found a really good price. Only really interested organising it for SA people as people will have to pick them up from me in Campbelltown, that way i don't have to stuff around with postage. I have read a number of reviews and they are one of the best budget O2 sensor available. Generally they are around $250 mark. They also come with two gauge faces and two bezels so you can set them up to match your other gauges. you can setup one of the output wires to simulate the factory Nerst cell (factory O2 sensor) signal so you can remove the factory O2 and just use the UEGO signal to control your ECU in closed loop. Digital Wideband Air / Fuel Gauge A wideband UEGO sensor controller accurately monitors Air/Fuel ratios (AFR) during the tuning process to prevent a lean fuel mixture, which could lead to engine damage. AEM has combined its single-channel wideband UEGO controller and gauge display into one unit, uniting unsurpassed AFR accuracy and control with an easy-to-read interface. AEM’s Gauge-Type Wideband UEGO Controller features a digital LED display and sweeping LED “needle” that changes colors as AFR changes from rich to lean. The unit’s 52mm (2-1/16”) gauge housing fits in most gauge pods and can be remotely mounted virtually anywhere. Ideal AFR monitoring tool for EFI and carbureted applications, and engine dynamometers Does not oscillate AFR reading like narrow band sensors No laptop required for monitoring! Bosch sensor included Accurate to 0.1 AFR Reads in AFR or Lambda via a switch in back of gauge housing 24 Color-coded LED display lights provide immediate reference to engine’s air/fuel ratio (AFR) or Lambda ratio Integrated three-digit display reveals AFR or Lambda in real time User-programmable 0-5v analog output included for use with data loggers and virtually any engine management system Serial data stream included for output of AFR (RS 232)

^^^ Than E boost 2?? I don't think so. Have a read. http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?...load&id=350

You seem to forget that the wastegate has pressure on it from the exhaust gasses as well. It's not uncommon to see exhaust pressure twice what the intake pressure is so if you have a light spring you will be getting the pressure on the gate from the exhaust being too great for the actuator. Therefore even with no boost signal to the actuator you will still be seeing the gate opening. Think about balance of forces. EP= Exhaust Pressure SP=Spring Pressure BP=Boost pressure (on the diaphragm of the actuator) For the gate to stay closed; BP+EP<SP So if the EP is greater than the SP even without BP the gate will open. Therefore a bigger SP is needed to stop creep. External gates though are a different story as you can setup some EBC's to put pressure both sides of the diaphragm untill you want to open the gate and then they remove the pressure from one side of the diaphragm allowing the gate to open. In this case the pressure above the diaphragm helps the spring to hold the gate closed. Really might be able to achieve the same thing with an internal gate using a duel port actuator but i haven't tried it personally.

yeah i read that a while ago and had given up on the idea of doing a NEO head due to the compression ratio issues so i must have missed that bit.

Have a read of this thread; IMHO it's the best of both worlds, no drilling for feeds and you retain your NVCS. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...er-t251669.html

it has covered the head question though; So the NEO head has a smaller combustion chamber and therefore a higher compression ratio than a N/A RB30E when using off the shelf 30DET or 30E pistons..

the NEO head has a smaller combustion chamber and you will find you will have a high compression ratio when using off the shelf 30DET or 30E pistons. Have you read the PDF??

the part number is on the ID tag that it riveted to the CHRA. Also if you measure the compressor inducer that will tell you what model you have; With the exception of -9 and -5 which have the same inducer but different exducers. -7: 44.5mm -9: 47.2mm (59.4mm Exducer) -5: 47.2mm (60.0mm Exducer) -10: 51.2mm

What do you mean by "Top Fuel", If you mean Nitromethane i think you will find that the AFR's are closer to 2.5:1.

I was wondering since the compressors are a bigger trim than the non x versions, then there would have to be a slight decrease in response?

Well you will need to wire in a Dropping resistor (They are Low Impedance) and you will have to mod and space the rail out. Not sure on the o-ring sizes either you may need to machine the rail. There will need to be some tuning to adjust the latency, but if you are changing the plenum tuning is a given. The EV14 injectors are cheap and drop in, you'd be better off selling the GTR injectors to some CA guys on NS.com and buying some injectors that drop in. I'm actually planning to pull the resistor out with my CA and running the EV14 injectors when i go E85. ~900cc for $79 each http://cgi.ebay.com.au/EV14-90LB-BOSCH-FUE...=item53ddd4121d

For an RB25 i would have gone for the full sized Turbine wheel (60mm) and the 0.82A/R housing. You will probably find that you are choking the turbo.

There's an Onevia here in SA that has a XR8 bonnet bulge grafted on a FRP bonnet. I'll find some pic's

Jeffs retired now and 4's and More have been telling the people i have spoken too that Nistune equiped ECU's will blow up their motor and that they should go for a full aftermarket ECU lol.

There is a brake place near Dazzlers car wash in holden hill that has done all my brake machining.

As to the R33 battery situation, all the coupes i have worked on have the battery in the boot.? But as you said the engine bay battery placement might be a sedan thing at there wouldn't be as much room maybe with the 4 door between the rear strut towers? Are the sedans longer in the wheel base?

You miss this weeks news story then Craig, http://www.adelaidenow.com.au/news/south-a...3-1225933548553 But you must have good neighbours.