D_Stirls

Definitely stick with the factory manifold, worth at least 300rpm in response (unless you are spending $1000 for a merge collector manifold), they will handle the heat better and won't crack like the SS one is guaranteed to do eventually.

how much power are we talking and which engine?

If you need a 5 stud conversion i have the parts that you'll need.

When i read that is assumed that they made the changes to make sure that the RPM signal was correct so the graph was displayed correctly, not that they adjusted the ramp rate by 5.7% to make up for the change of ramp rate that the engine sees. But after re reading it i'm not sure?

wouldn't that in effect change the ramp rate as the ramp rate is measured via wheel speed and the ratio of wheel speed to engine speed is now different?

Sorry this isn't correct. Deaths involving street racing would represent <2% of the accidents, and although they are avoidable they in no way deserve the media attention or the money spent by the government that it does when deaths involving inattentive driving would represent 30+% and i have never seen any money spent on combating this issue. It's just a vote grabber and that is it. If you start making the penalty not fit the crime that is when you get people running which increases the risk to the general public hugely. What other expiatable offence has a $50,000 fine (in the case of the R34 owner).

TD06S = Inducer 65mm; Exducer 55.3mm, Blades 12 TD06SH = Inducer 67mm; Exducer 58.8mm, Blades 12 TD06SL2= Inducer 61mm; Exducer 54.1mm, Blades 11 Like i said above i would suggest a TD05SH-18G (T518Z), the SR guys are seeing slightly better response than a GT2871R (20psi~3500rpm) and they make 260kw+ with cams (on an SR).

If you can find a 10cm housing for a TD05-18G that'll be the next step down from a 06-20G.

Have a play with their matchbot software, that'll let you know which of the EFRs will suit your needs. It looks confusing but watch the tutorials at the bottom of the page. http://www.turbodriven.com/en/performanceturbos/matchbot.aspx

Probably age related

I would want to hope that they upgrade the turbine if they do a GTX28 as the current GT range is already turbine limited (well in the 2871R anyway) so there really isn't much point in having more compressor flow if the turbine can't flow the extra or provide the drive to spin the bigger flowing compressor.

i would be interested to see a plot of a GT3040 (GT3082R) Vs' a GTX3076R as i think they will be pretty similar. Personally i think that that GTX range was an attempt to gain back a bit of the market share that they were beginning to lose to other performance turbo brands like Precision and Borg Warner. They seem to have been caught napping a bit and while the others were designing completely new turbos Garrett were relying on their now old GT range and didn't seem to be working on anything new. That is also the reason why i think that the wheels are billet as the time from design to production is a lot less with a billet part than cast, and it also means that they can easily tweek the design without the expense of re tooling. The GTX range at the end of the day is nothing more than an updated compressor, it's not a completely new turbo just a touch up on the old design.

Pic's people, we want pic's and lots of them

I think they had hydraulic suspension from factory (not that they go that low in factory trim) they have a lot of hydraulics in them which is why they are well over 2 tonne. Just looked up on wikipedia they are 2.6 tonne, well the Mercedes 600 that was on Top Gear is.

so is there a question in there somewhere?

Coolant reduces the waters ability to carry heat, the coolant might not get as hot but the surfaces that you are trying to cool(the head and bores) are hotter due to the reduction the efficiency of the thermal transfer. So you are correct the coolant won't boil but it isn't really achieving what you want either. In day to day applications it does the job but for performance applications i don't like it. My vote is for water with a water wetter that has a corrosion inhibitor and an higher pressure cap incase the temps do get high and you need to stop the water boiling; but if your cooling system is sorted you should need to worry about temps getting high.

Has anyone looked at using one of the ford lightning AFM elements. you can just use the element itself or you can get them with an element and a housing. They are around $200 and they support 800hp in NA applications. Nistune has the VQ maps for them provided in the VQ table, so finding the VQ scales wouldn't be hard.

AFAIk Martin was talking about the shootout modes that are used on dyno days. the F4, F6 and F8 (for forced induction). These are the ones that have the extra correction factors so the 4's 6's and 8's account for their differing sized trans's. In tuning mode (not sure of actual mode name) it'll show the wheel power with the only correction being the weather based ones which you enter by hand on a DD dyno and on a mainline they have a built in weather station. After we finished tuning my car one day Jeff showed me the different modes and the effect that ramp rate had on the power. With the DD's there is also a main fudge factor as well can be set to anything that you like, when my car went on to Turbo Tunes dyno it had picked up around 50kw one day. Another workshop had borrowed their dyno as TT's was a 4WD dyno and they had set the main correction to 1.25 and forgot to change it back when they finished, so when my car went on the dyno i was making 25% more power than before.

are you sure that you guys aren't quoting tractive effort instead of true torque. XR6T's are making around the mid 500 Flywheel Nm mark from factory and you aren't doubling the power so there is no way that you are doubling the torque, since the two are related. So either your are making the power a lot later in the rev range or you aren't making 1000nm.

There's no tuning that you can do with a stock ECU. The only thing that you can do it adjust the base timing at the CAS and anyone can do that with a timing light. If your fuel mileage has become worse then i would be looking at your O2 sensor.

How are they tuning it? What ECU? My car has been tuned there a number of times but it was Jeff (TSL) that was doing the tuning and just using their dyno. On a side note, Does anyone on here own a R34 Sedan plate number GTT-034

as long as the rail pressure is the same as before the install it will be fine.

I see your alcohol and raise you more alcohol.

So I was right, The bloke hasn't replied anyway. I only went by the wheel sizes and the number of blades/pictures and i couldn't see any differences. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=492662

No i don't have one, someone has just shit canned me on NS for saying that a T67 is effectively the same as a TD06SL2-25G, I'm 95% sure they are almost identical.