D_Stirls

i've got a Brand New leakdown tester. Infact i have never used it yet. Located in Campbelltown EDIT!! I just went out the garage to give the leak down tester a try on my spare engine and it's stuffed. Never used it and it's broken. NOT HAPPY. The the tester not connected or with it connected but not with the fitting not screwed in the head it should read 100% leakage and mine reads 50%, and won't go below 50%.

Mines 17 months since i last drove it. But then i have only done 5000km's in 5 years So it's not the first time it's been off the road for 12 months+

you can get them for around $680. I paid $350 but it was second hand. EDIT!! Here's one that's $700 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TURBOSMART-e-BOOST2...=item2c5637a2a2

What is the reason for only looking at Duel Solenoid EBC's? Turbosmart E-Boost 2 would be my choice (infact i bought one a few months to replace my DSBC) but they aren't duel solenoid and they don't need to be.

the seats won't be what's damaged, infact the guides might still be ok as well but there will be a few bent valves.

No they are out of time, Basically Rubens was pulling up next to him on the straight and Schumacher was watching his mirrors, waited until Rubens was next to him and tried to put him in the pit wall. Basically he had half the straight to close the gate but waited until Rubens had no where to go before he did it. Wait and see the footage, Rubens missed the end of the pit wall by half a foot while travelling at 300km/h. One of the most deliberately dangerous things i have seen in F1 in a long time

Jump on Channel One now they are about to talk about it

Webber you CHAMPION. Schumacher your past it time to give it up! In the past you were fast and dangerous now your just dangerous.

Little bit of racing action going on ATM in the F1 race. GO WEBBER YOU GOOD THING!!!

Yeah the compression test will tell you which cylinders are damaged.

Pull all the plugs as well. Take the fuel pump fuse out and unplug the injector loom. If you only forced it through i rotation (probably only 180 degrees) then it won't be more than 2 sets damaged (off the top of my head). You might as well replace all the guides as you will have a fully rebuilt head then , and if you are going to chase some performance down the track get the head lightly ported while it is off. The valves will be the expensive bit (i suspect). Just to give you an idea i ordered a full set of guides form my CA for $120 + postage from the states.

Yeah i didn't pay $50 either. BTW; Todd doesn't work at outlaws any more.

If it's lined up now then you should be able to turn it over without doing anymore damage than what has already been done. Hopefully you don;t drop a valve in the process. But without a compression test you might pull the head off and there will be nothing wrong (unlikely though).

Yeah you really shouldn't force things Time for the had to come off then. Do a compression test and that will tell you the story. And then if it's low, off with the head, new valves and guides.

My tax return is going towards a TIG welder. My oil cooler ended up costing around the $500 but the time i bought all the fittings and hose. The cooler was only $130 and the remote brackets i made on the CNC, so that gives you and indication.

Do after you changed the belt do the gears match up with the marks when the balancer is at 0? It will still run as you will still get some compression but it won't run well. If they are overly bent or you have knocked the head off the valve that cylinder won't fire.

LOL I knew that, i swear i checked that the other day when i first noticed the threads were doing it. But yep Linear+ not standard. Oh well Fixed now. Cheers

I'm guessing something was changed because i now see the first post of a thread on every page of that thread, How do i turn this off as it is pissing me off.

The differences are that P-FC has 20x20 maps and Nistune has the factory 16x16 maps. This really doesn't make a difference as the ECU will interpolate between the map points. So really unless you are making huge power like 600+hp and you need to stretch you map to cover a large load range you will not be at a disadvantage, and really an extra 4x4 points isn't increasing it dramatically anyway. The Big Difference. Nistune retains Knock Control where as P-FC does nothing to control knock except flash a LED light on your dash. So Nistune will richen you fuel map and pull timing out ignition map if a knock incident is detected but P-FC will flash at you while the engine is pinging it's tits off. The cost. Nistune: Board ~$250, Software/Licence ~$200, Cable ~$100. Really all most people will need is the board, if you want to play (at your own peril) or data log then you can get the licence and the cable. Not sure whether the OBD2 tunable boards need the cable. P-FC: ~$1000 second-hand, FC-Logit ~$450. Without FC-Logit you can't do the things you can with nistune and the software.

No you won't need to take it to regency for an inspection. If you are moving to SA from interstate and the car was registered in your name in the other state, then all you need to do is fill out a change of address form at any motor reg office and away you go. If you bought the car from interstate and it isn't in your name then it will ahve to go to regency and be inspected.

For brushes, go to a laboratory supply company and get Test Tube Brushes. Got 5 brushes from 3mm to 20mm for $15

In terms of CNC machining have a chat to my brother. But he's in SA not Vic. Matt; 0447739992 http://www.growly.com.au

I don't think i was the bus driver. You can see the bus driver on the LHS of the video, i think it was the police. What about this guy? If you were a bus driver would you kick him in the head? http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/...-for-crime.html

Progress;

Woot! The head/manifold is just dummied on the block. Wasn't too sure about the blue originally but now i like it.