rev210

sexy silver. Stock looking as they come, with the M-spec rear spoiler. If you wanted a car that already 'goes' and wanted to customise the look to your own unique taste then it would be a blank canvas.

Sneeza, you can spend that and get mine. I have to sell it for tax reasons (every car I buy has to be sold in 3 years to make the most tax benifit). I'm not sure what sort of hurry your in tho. Probably good to have a drive of mine to bench mark what your looking at.

what did you do to the intercooler pipe to bust it?

Diff oil is gear oil. and it's all bad.

smell of what? You been eating re-fried beans again? I still smell of used engine oil, gasket goo and auto fluid from yesterday. the only thing worse is getting gear oil in your hair.

hello whorepeople.

SLY33, As always the dyno figures don't mean anything, all dyno sheets are good for is an emergency toilet paper substitute. I don't consider the standard turbo capable of helping the RB25 to anything much over 300HP at the engine. You should go see how your car goes at the 1/4 too it's alot of fun and I think we need as many gtst's as we can get doing some good times. To be fair it's possible there are other tuning issues with the ATP example car. To do a flat 13 in a gtst is impressive but, the mph indicates a problem somewhere. perhaps the owner shifts gears like nanna?

I look at the cold start performance, the pressure stabillity under heat load and how much quicker the car is (if at all). The pentrite stuff is as good as mobil 1 getting around the motor (mobil 1 is very good) at start up. Shuts the lifter noise up straight away. The pentrite stuff holds idle/stall oil pressure nicely, where as the mobil 1 required a higher rpm for idle to be set to ensure the pressure did not drop into the idiot light zone when the engine had a good thrash. Basically the oil is great value for money. Oil is after all a disposable consumable for the engine and getting the most expensive oil does not do anything but burn a nice hole in the wallet. Think about changing the gearbox and diff oil at 5-15,000kms based on the driving style you employ. Go to the drags once and the diff oil at least requires a change (you may notice the silvery metal particals that come out). I am constantly amazed by people who buy mega buck oils and then don't change the diff and trans fluid regularly. It's like driving around with sand in the gearbox.

I use mobil 1. I do alot of kms and change the oil at 10,000kms or earlier depending on the oil's condition and the type of driving I've been doing. You can use a partially synthetic oil. I like the pentrite stuff for that. They have exellent high temp range oil 5w-70 and it's only $28. I use the 15w-70 in the volvo V8 and it's better than the mobil 1. I'm switching to the 5w-70 stuff for the skyline next.

I've just spent a whole day fixing oil, trans and fuel leaks on the 308 and turb 350. Gotta hate the dead heads who designed these things. I'm sure it will leak again in 6 months. It's running pretty well again, poor old series VI turbo rx7 beaten by a volvo wagon :)

change your gearbox oil frequently and you will never have the problem. BTW the redline stuff should be changed just as regularly, so unless your made of money I'd get a couple of different grades of cheap stuff and see what works. strich9ine, your not supposed to flat change into 5th its only a 'little gear'

RON-15H, yeah your right he won't be close to a skyline he'll be about four car lengths ahead doing a low 13 whilst the skyline struggles to get a 14.

My tip is to drive as many cars as you can before stepping out and buying one. Tell the salesperson to shut up whilst you drive, and don't talk to them. Just concentrate on the cars handling and noises. Let the facts speak for themselves not the salespersons interesting tales of how they never get 'dud' cars in etc... My gtst was so much better than all the other cars I test drove. I got it from a mates yard (the last one I went to) Cannington Auto wholesale (not autohouse btw). Remember all these cars you look at are 'high hour' cars (note the kms are low but in japan cars can sit in traffic for many hours at a time --- read very bad for engine wear just like km's often worse)

re install :at the same time as the clutch will save you some labour cost. It takes 5min more to do than just the clutch change. re Drivabillity : It is so close to stock driving around town you wont notice. The clutch will have a bigger impact on the low speed driving. My tip is not to get too heavy a pressure plate (a tiny bit more pressure than stock is all thats needed). Multi plate clutches should be avoided if you don't have enourmous power. The light flywheel (4.8kg) is a better mod than a front mount intercooler by a long way on the stock turbo.

b005t, I've seen r33's that couldn't crack a 14 as well. because they had less horsepower than stock too. A 70,000km worn engine is not going to pull the same as a fresh one.

Hey bodge, That ATP turbo isn't all that fab then next to the stocker. I got a 13.3 @ 106mph with the stock turbo on cheap'o 205's. My S-afc isn't properly tuned either. The MPH would be a tad higher if not for a self imposed 6000rpm redline to avoid a knock above that rev.12's are on the cards soon. BTW thats a full weight car + all my work stuff. Mt point is if you want 12's then you don't need too much more than the stock size turbo. Then again you will need something to match that big intercooler you have.

mike, The charcoal canister has a breather pipe that goes back to the fuel tank and a couple of pipes at the top that draw from the manifold. You can simply block all the pipes. The only drawback is the fuel tank may make noises when opening it (not dangerous). (many cars have had this canister since the 70's as a polution control device) all the performance cars I've owned I had the canister disconnected .

I went from 13.8 to 13.4 by only the addition of an ogura 4.8kg flywheel.

if you have a bigger turbo than the stock one it might be. Otherwise no.

oh thats 500HP @ motor

they won't flow much more than 300HP @ motor if your lucky. You'd get a little more if the ceramic wheel didn't fall off in bits. With two you could make a nice 500hp at fairly low boost (good news for the engine).

33spec2, Speeding is illegal. Do I need to say more? Buy them online.

www.radartest.com Good site for determining the merits.

why not buy a 'radar jammer' that doubles as a detector. Can buy them online. There are a few dodgy ones to watch out for tho'. If I lose my licence I'll be getting one.

bad idea. If it aint broke don't fix it. Get the dump/front pipe done in stainless (should cost you no more than $450 for both fitted). If you are evil, then have the old cat removed and stick a matchng 3 inch stainless pipe through the middle of it, so it looks like a fully functional cat from the outside. BTW, the cat stops working once you use fuel additives (like toluene) and run non-factory fuel mistures. They die remarkably quickly on performance vehicles.