rev210

http://www.xspeed.com.au/secret.php?area=nissan Have a look at some of these cars, D-jetro equiped and high horsepower.

2 deg advanced on the intake cam and 4 deg retarded on the exhaust cam , for stock units this is generally the starting point. Mind you thats for stock turbos airflow.Use it as a starting point since you may find a slight adjustment either way might give better results given the airflow on the 300rwkw turbo you have.

The HICAS operates at speed and the rears are only steered through a very small angle of about 1 degree, out of phase to aid turn in. It's not something the RAC guy is going to 'see' like he would on a Mazda where the 4WS works under 35kmh and has upto 5 degrees of angle change.

The crower cranks will be very nice I'd imagine, and probably not to pricey for what you get.

A set of bigger cams (256deg 9mm lift) to go with those cam gears will help too. There goes some more money!

tomei bolts for cams here; http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...ts_.html#kyouka

Oh there was my old R33 too. The only change was to the flywheel in this comparsion. The ambient temps were both 32-33deg on the kwinana drag strip. Factory flywheel 13.8@101mph 2.1 60ft 4.8kg Ogura flywheel (about 5kg reduced) 13.4@104mph 2.1 60ft The R32 GTR rims are a great idea. Great forged rims at an excellent price second hand. They are very light.

Roy, Doing the 'response mods' although initially expensive save you money in the long term. Whether you can afford to do them all or just a few. They are all 'good value' let me assure you as someone who has real experience in that area. All I can do is say you won't regret it. Gains being small is certainly not the case. I can tell you the difference between a car with an without them will be quite worth the money and the cost to achieve the same gain 'long term' is far greater in terms of power increase. The $2.1k on a carbon fibre tail shaft is money well spent when you consider the benifits. The Mazda Rx8 and nissan 350z (track) and the Mines R34 GTR have that as a standard kit (Mines GTR aside), for very good reason. Don't really want to get into a long winded debate over that one. The cheapest Mines like mods you can probably do and one of the better ones in the spirit of the concept Mines were aiming at. I'm certainly not in the business of building or prepping race cars, so to extra weight perhaps PM Sydneykid to get his thoughts? Having said that here's a few rotational intertia real world examples I found to consider; 1) testing wheel weight on a WRX aceleration/deceleration. The 17" rims are 11.5kg with Pirelli runflats. The 16" rims are 7.9kg with Azenis. Here's the results: All testing was done in the same location, 78 degrees ambient, same direction, 3 runs each Same car. 17 11.5kg ----- 0-60mph = 7.37, 6.74, 6.85 seconds 60-0mph = 127, 125, 133 feet 16's 7.9kg ----- 0-60mph = 6.57, 6.67, 6.52 seconds 60-0mph = 115, 111, 113 feet 2) R32 GTR Reduction of approx 2.5kg in flywheel , rolling accelleration this time. Stock flywheel 60-90kmh 1.8 seconds Light Flywheel 60-90kmh 1.7 seconds 3) Corvette Z06 Lightweight flywheel dyno timed accelleration to peak power. (I like these tests, people ought to do them more. In fact if your changing things on the car between dynos get your stopwatch out, it's too easy). The runs were made in fourth gear from 2,000 rpm to 6,400 rpm (peak power). Or look at it another way speed could also be plotted across the axis instead. It wasn't in this case but, if someone wants to they could do some basic calcs. Dyno 357.3 hp and 351.8 ft-lb Stock clutch, flywheel pressure plate = 23.2kg time to peak power = 14 sec time to peak torque = 11 sec New cltuch, light flywheel & pressure plate = 13kg time to peak power = 11 seconds time to peak torque = 9 sec Some actual evidence to consider as opposed to the babble we all love

For that turbo cams will help. Even 256 or 260's with 9mm lift will be better than stock.

Before boost torque can be improved on with smallish cams, turbo can be brought onto boost between 500rpm to 1000rpm sooner depending on what you have setup wise. If the turbo/s are large however you might consider a smaller unit if you like the low/mid range power to be sharper. There are a few ways to skin a cat as they say. If its the physical time waiting for the turbo to get going the focus on reducing rotational inertia (from light weight pulleys to light forged rims) gives you a reduction in time taken without changing the rpm at which the turbo comes onto boost.

the path to money spending is faster for some and slower for others. $15k for instance is chicken feed for owning a modified car. If you spend $2,100 on a carbon fibre tailshaft ( I can put you in contact with the organisation that does them delivered for about that) , consider that some multiplate clutches can cost more. You want a nice set of forged rims as well? Thats going to cost you more by a factor of at least 2 and not give you the same sorts of benifits in the same sort of magnitude. Although it helps with suspension and brake associated areas as well and is worth doing too. Also consider that the improvements to overall drive feel (thanks to reduced harmonics), accelleration and reduced wear on gearbox and diff all come without any penalty in on-going running, including accellerated engine (and everything else) wear costs, like more power does. Why only 220rwkw? Why not? The cars bits and peices will last longer at that level than More than 220rwkw means more attention and cost to get the power to the ground and make the car generally more reliable. I am quite confident that if someone builds a car around a target 220rwkw and invests dollars in maximising engine response and the other important areas of braking and suspension etc, they can have a car that will be very nice to drive around town (with full interior) and make other peoples cars who are focused on power, look rather slow around a track. This guy is on the right track, he needs a little more info about what he really wants to do and it's going to be a very good car he ends up with.

while you change the cams do the retaining bolts for the cams. They have a habit of breaking as they cop a fair bit of fatigue when being torqued off and on. Tomei make some beefy ones. Also worth having a look at the valve springs etc. depending on what rpm etc you are going to see often and which cams you went for in terms of lift.

The gtrs have amazing exit speed from corners. The hicas (4 wheel steer) causes some of the strange feedback from the car and the attessa has it's own sensation to get used to. The main issue being you usually go ithrough the corner thinking 'understeer ! understeer ! back off the power!' when you need to feed the power in at the right moment. There are I think a few guys involved with driver training courses that run about in GTRs that would be worth throwing a few dollars at to get the most out of it with the least experimental risk. Ken from Hyperdrive, is one guy worth a chat to, not sure if he is still doing the driver training thing tho'.

subwoofer box has been done before, to conceal the bottle. It needs to be vented. The problem is that driving around with nitrous connected is that in the event of an accident, not even your fault, you may face charges and the insurance company will not cover the cars repair. Not to mention that nitrous oxide is an accelerant when it comes to any kind of fire you may have and the bottle can explode if heated too much by the event of a fire etc. My 2c is get a kit if you like but, forget running around on the street with it. Save that fun for the drags.

The question he is asking is quite a good one. Notice he said 'not so much past 7/8k but, from idle to redline? He's not trying to rev the motor to 14,000rpm. The goal is 220rwkw as a peak value. Cover; Reducion in rotational mass Increasing the average power across the desired rpm range, Reduction in total mass (power to weight) and finally optimised gearing is a short answer. The power goal you have is sensible but, one last thing is getting an optimised response monster's power to the ground. You will need to look at tyres and suspension too. PM for some more info if you like.

can't have the connections in the engine bay. It cannot be fitted period.

my standard r32 gtr turbos let go at only 11 psi. They were 240,000kms old tho'. The question to ask yourself is; How much do I care if the ceramic turbine lets go and causes my engine to need a rebuild? If you don't care and are ready for a rebuild or have a spare motor, then turn up the boost as much as you like. Hand over $6k+ for a rebuild? IF however you can accept the fact that you now ,in terms of usage, own a relatively 'old' car, with it's old motor and old turbos, then you may just think to keep things in check till you are ready to go for a real step into less fragile turbo. If you have a couple of $k you can fix the concern now and be done with it. There are very few examples of GTR turbos living to an old age at 1 bar or over. When it comes to high boost take your wisdom from the many turbos that have died and the motors that went with them. A set of steel wheel turbos are alot cheaper than an Rb26 rebuild afterall.

Here's a comparsion for you on stock turbos. Stock turbo's obviously work a little lower in the rpm range. Standard R32 GTR cams & turbos *(adjustable cam gears set to optimum low end boost response, 2deg adv intake & 4 deg retard exh) * optimum AFR and ignition set on Power FC Boost 12psi rpm rwhp 3500 - 140 4000 - 180 4500 - 190 5000 - 220 average power = 183.75rwhp Tomei 260deg intake and exhaust cams standard R32 GTR turbos *(cams set for optimum low end response) * AFR & ignition maps safe tune for old engine, so further improvements could be made (average up maybe another 20rwhp+) Boost 10-11psi rpm rwhp 3500 - 175 4000 - 200 4600 - 235 5000 - 265 average power = 218.75rwhp So you can see that an average of more than 30hp can be gained in this lower area with cams that to be honest are a tad more suited to getting more air going in the higher rpm range. Obviously if your are dropping below 3500rpm on shifts you need to have a good look at your gearing ratios both gearbox and diff. At higher airlfow requirements like those of a turbo aimed at 300rwkw, the right cams will shine even more. You can also approach the exhaust or intake cams as sepparate proposals working together too, with someone who has the cam software to plug the numbers in. You can do some very interesting things in terms of engine characteristics if we had access to someone local who could do custom billet grinds. It beats the pants off buying the off the shelf tomei or other brand cams if you are after the optimum for a power curve you have in mind, particularly when you are doing things like porting the heads and you have some flow bench data to look at. When I checked last the issue was with the length of the RB cams for crow cams people to do billets, was a while ago though. Hope that helps.

Nitrous kit fitted to car is illegal to drive on public roads in WA. Installations I have had a part in have all been 'invisable'. I don't believe in driving around with the stuff on the road. It's something like planting the foot real hard and breaking the speed limit that you should do at the track. I fitted my kit on my old R33 gtst and everything was hidden real well. The kit was sold to 2rismo who now runs mid 11's with it and the stock turbo.

As people have pointed out the areas of possible improvement may come from a tweak of the cam timing along with adjustment to the fuel & ign maps to suit. The boost controller can be a problem if not set correctly. Always worth doing the basics too like a compression test. Do those sorts of tests when you go home after wringing it's neck at the track or dyno every time you go. Takes only a little time to do. The group A turbo's I had were on full boost a little over 4k. They are much bigger though. So it says there is some hope.

300rwkw with a low starting power band, definately requires cams to get the bet results. 256deg 9.15mm lift tomei's aren't shabby for what you are after.

What rpm range / power are you chasing? Power and torque wise the factory cams can be improved on, even with factory sized turbos.

good result

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